Ski Mountaineering-Scientific Knowledge of This New Olympic Sport: A Narrative Review.

ABSTRACT: Ski mountaineering (skimo) has been accepted as a new sport for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Olympics. The equipment used in this competitive ski mountaineering varies from leisure ski mountaineering equipment mainly in one point: the minimal weight. At the elite athlete level, skimo demands both maximal endurance performance and a high-intensity anaerobic capacity for the sprint and vertical races. Race time significantly correlates to V˙O2max, body mass index and racing gear mass. Available literature only rarely comments on competitive skimo injuries. Injuries are not only due to falls in downhill skiing but also can result from external hazards, such as avalanches and cold. The high training load of athletes in combination with a low body weight, low body fat, and exposure to cold cause high rates of respiratory infections in athletes. The inclusion of skimo into the Olympic program is expected to result in certain changes, such as higher training loads for the athletes and increased scientific interest into training methods.

Indoor Bouldering-A Prospective Injury Evaluation.

INTRODUCTION: Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity. METHODS: Proportions and patterns of injury among German-speaking indoor boulderers were evaluated prospectively in an explorative cohort study. Participants completed a baseline questionnaire assessing anthropometric data and sport-specific potential preventive and risk factors, followed by monthly injury questionnaires including injury location and injury severity over a period of 12 mo. RESULTS: Out of 507 boulderers, 222 (44%) sustained 305 injuries. Of those, 78% (n=238) were classified as Union Internationale de Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 1, 19% (n=57) as UIAA 2, and 3% (n=10) as UIAA 3. Injuries of the upper extremities accounted for 63% (n=191) of all injuries. Injuries of the lower extremities accounted for 23% (n=71) but were more often classified as UIAA≥2 (P=0.0071; odds ratio [OR] 2.23; 95% CI 1.23-4.04) and were more often caused by falling (P=0.0005; OR 2.92; 95% CI 1.57-5.42) and jumping off the wall (P<0.0001; OR 4.39; 95% CI 2.25-8.56) than injuries of other body locations. There was no statistically significant protective effect of the evaluated potential preventive measures. Participants who used heavily downturned climbing shoes had a higher risk of sustaining a UIAA ≥2 injury (P=0.0034; OR 2.58; 95% CI 1.34-4.95). CONCLUSIONS: Injuries in indoor bouldering are common. Lower extremity injuries are associated with higher injury severity. Preventive measures need to be established to reduce bouldering injuries, especially during falls and landings.

Returning to Climb after Epiphyseal Finger Stress Fracture.

The number of youth participating in rock climbing has increased over the years. Finger stress epiphyseal fractures are the most common injury among youth climbers. These injuries tend to occur around puberty because this is when the physis is most vulnerable to injury. Additionally, it has been found that intensive finger training (campus boarding, a previously known risk factor for epiphyseal fractures) during adolescence can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand up to a decade later. There is currently a lack of a return-to-climb protocol for youth climbers following a repetitive stress epiphyseal fracture. Because of this gap in the literature, our purpose was to create a structured return-to-play protocol specific to youth climbers who sustained an epiphyseal fracture to the finger. By establishing these guidelines, medical professionals and coaches may be able to guide their athlete to gradually and safely return to sport.

Acute injury risk and severity in indoor climbing-a prospective analysis of 515,337 indoor climbing wall visits in 5 years.

OBJECTIVE: Rock climbing's popularity continues to rise, with people of all ages regularly participating in the sport. Climbing literature suggests climbers get injured mostly in their upper extremities. Most studies on climbing injury analysis are conducted retrospectively, with all the inherent problems of a retrospective setup (no exact time collection, biased injury perception, etc). Prospective data are still missing. METHODS: We prospectively evaluated all attendees of a major German indoor climbing gym in Stuttgart, Germany, with bouldering and lead climbing facilities. Attendee's age, sex, and time spent climbing were electronically recorded on each visit. All acute injuries were graded using the Medical Commission of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme Score. Injury cause, belayers' and climbers' experience, and outcome were additionally analyzed. RESULTS: During a 5-year period (2007-2011), 515,337 visits to the climbing wall were registered, of which 63.6% were by male visitors, 36.4% female, within an age of 8-80 years (median, 34 years). The average time of climbing was 2 hours 47 minutes. Thirty climbing injuries were recorded, 22 were in male and 8 in female climbers with a total mean age of 27.5 ± 10.6 years. Acute injuries happened in 6 cases while bouldering, in 16 cases while lead climbing, in 7 cases while top roping, and in 1 case as a third person (not climbing or belaying) while watching another climber. Bouldering injuries were mostly the result of falls onto the mat, whereas in lead and top rope climbing various scenarios happened. Fifteen (50%) injuries were Medical Commission of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme grade 2, 13 (43%) were grade 3, and 2 (7%) were grade 4, with no fatalities. The overall injury rate was 0.02 injuries per 1000 hours of climbing activities. CONCLUSIONS: This was the first study to accurately record time spent indoor climbing digitally and evaluate the acute injuries prospectively in a large cohort. There were few injuries sustained, suggesting indoor climbing has a low risk of acute injury per 1000 hours of participation. The injuries were of minor to moderate injury severity, and no fatalities occurred. Several injuries could have been avoided, and further injury-prevention concepts should be developed.

Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial.

Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI-VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers' grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.