Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis.

OBJECTIVE: Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging. METHODS: Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components. RESULTS: Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 µg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones. CONCLUSION: The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

OBJECTIF: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para a été indiquée pour la peau terne et la perte de cheveux en ce qui concerne ses acides gras bénéfiques cutanés. Néanmoins, la propriété anti­photovieillissemen de l'huile reste inexplorée. Nous avons proposé que l'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para puisse atténuer le photovieillissement. MÉTHODES: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para a été étudiée dans des cocultures de cellules HaCaT humaines et de fibroblastes dermiques (HDF). L'efficacité de la protection contre le photovieillissement a été surveillée en termes d'IL­6 et d'IL­8, ainsi que de MMP­1 (collagénase) et de MMP­9 (gélatinase) en comparaison avec ses composants d'acides gras. RÉSULTATS: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para standardisée en acides gras a été indiquée comme huile végétale prometteuse pour le traitement du photovieillissement. Pour la première fois, son mécanisme de photoprotection a été démontré dans le système de coculture des cellules kératinocytaires et fibroblastiques. Où l'huile et ses composants d'acides gras (100 microgrammes/ml) ont été indiqués comme étant sûrs et protégeant efficacement les cocultures contre les dommages causés par les UV. L'huile a significativement (p < 0,001) supprimé les sécrétions d'IL­6, IL­8, MMP­1 et MMP­9 induites par les UV. La capacité de photoprotection révélée a été permise par ses acides gras, en particulier les acides gras insaturés C18. CONCLUSION: L'huile a été indiquée pour sa capacité de maintenir l'homéostasie de la peau et d'atténuer le vieillissement de sénescence en ce qui concerne ses capacités de photoprotection démontrées. L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para est justifiée comme agent protecteur contre le photovieillissement de nouvelle génération avec la sécurité et l'efficacité décrites démontrées dans le système de coculture épidermique. Les résultats encouragent le développement de produits anti­vieillissement innovants contenant l'huile, qui est catégorisable comme un matériau spécialisé durable pour le traitement du photovieillissement.

Wound healing and photoprotection properties of Acanthus ebracteatus Vahl. extracts standardized in verbascoside.

Acanthus spp. have been documented in traditional Thai herbal medicine and are applicable for the treatment of inflamed skin with wound healing property. Nonetheless, the scientific evidence necessary to prove the herb's doctrine has not yet been revealed. Verbascoside-rich extracts of the herbal medicine A. ebracteatus Vahl., were therefore prepared. The extracts and verbascoside were examined for their wound healing abilities using a scratch assay with fibroblasts. The anti-inflammatory effect suppressing MMP-9 was assessed in cocultures of keratinocyte (HaCaT cells) and fibroblasts. The extracts significantly improved wound healing compared with the control (p < 0.001). The wound healing effect of the extracts significantly (p < 0.01) increased with increasing verbascoside content. It should be noted that the extract was significantly (p < 0.05) better than verbascoside at the same test concentration. The extracts were capable of protecting cocultures of HaCaT cells and fibroblasts from photodamage. The extracts significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed cellular MMP-9 secretion following UV exposure, showing a better effect than that of verbascoside (p < 0.01). A. ebracteatus extract is promising for wound healing and photoprotection, and a prominent source of verbascoside. Verbascoside-rich A. ebracteatus could be utilized for the development of innovative skin-care products.

Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing.

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent.

Sacha Inchi: The Promising Source of Functional Oil for Anti-Aging Product.

Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis) oil is constituted with macronutrients and the health benefit fatty acids. In this context, the efficient of Sacha inchi oil for anti-aging product is presented. The light-clear yellowish seed oil of Sacha inchi was revealed on its physicochemical properties that are in the same range of the commercializing plant-oil supplied for topical products. The oil was GC/MS exhibited to be constituted with α-linolenic (51.72%) and linoleic (24.3%) acids, with unsaturated/saturated fatty acids ratio of 21.26. The oil was noted onto its potent in vitro antioxidant activity assessed by ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. In addition, the oil (1-3%) was proved to be safe in normal human fibroblast cells. Furthermore, the oil exhibited cellular antioxidant with inhibitory effect against MMP-2. Sacha inchi oil is therefore highlighted as a potential source of nutraceutical especially for anti-aging product. The oil is specified for the product development in terms of physicochemical, chemical and biological profiles. Innovative processing of Sacha inchi is therefore encouraged as the promising plant for anti-aging product.

Anti-skin ageing activities of rice (Oryza sativa) bran soft and hard waxes in cultured skin cells.

OBJECTIVE: Rice (Oryza sativa) bran waxes, the by-products of rice bran oil manufacturing, are widely used as inactive components in several preparations. Nevertheless, the function of rice bran waxes against skin ageing has never been reported. This study aimed to investigate thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes, including rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes, and the activities against skin ageing in cultured skin cells. METHODS: Thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes were analysed by differential scanning calorimetry and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, respectively. The cytotoxicity assay of waxes was performed in B16F10 melanoma cells, human skin fibroblasts and co-culture cells of HaCaT cells and human skin fibroblasts. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of waxes were evaluated for their activities against skin ageing, including melanogenesis assay, antioxidant activity, collagen content analysis, matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assay and anti-inflammatory activity. RESULTS: Thermal property indicated the endotherm peaks with melting temperatures at 40.89 ± 0.27°C and 69.64 ± 0.34°C for RBS and RBH, respectively. The main fatty acids in RBS were oleic (31.68 ± 0.75%) and linoleic acids (27.19 ± 0.40%), whereas those in RBH were palmitic (36.24 ± 1.08%) and stearic acids (35.21 ± 4.51%). The cytotoxicity assay in single cells and co-culture cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of RBS (0.0001-1 mg/mL) and RBH (0.0001-0.1 mg/mL). The anti-skin ageing activities of 1 mg/mL RBS and 0.1 mg/mL RBH included the melanogenesis inhibition by suppression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 enzymes, the antioxidant activity by cellular protection against cell damage and cell death, the collagen stimulation, the matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 suppression and the anti-inflammation. CONCLUSIONS: The study results suggest that RBS and RBH can potentially be applied as the functional ingredients in formulations against skin ageing as well as provide the superior benefit on skin moisturization.

OBJECTIF: Les cires de son de riz (Oryza sativa) et les sous­produits de la fabrication de l'huile de son de riz sont largement utilisées comme composants inactifs dans plusieurs préparations. Néanmoins, l'effet des cires de son de riz contre le vieillissement de la peau n'a jamais été rapporté. Cette étude visait à étudier les propriétés thermiques et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz, y compris les cires dures et douces de son de riz, et les activités contre le vieillissement de la peau dans les cellules cutanées en culture. MÉTHODES: La propriété thermique et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz ont été analysés par calorimétrie différentielle à balayage et chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée spectrométrie de masse, respectivement. Le dosage de la cytotoxicité des cires a été réalisé sur des cellules de mélanome B16F10, des fibroblastes de peau humaine, et des cellules de co­culture de cellules HaCaT et des fibroblastes de peau humaine. Les concentrations non cytotoxiques des cires ont été évaluées pour leurs activités contre le vieillissement de la peau, y compris l'analyse de la mélanogenèse, l'activité antioxydante, l'analyse de la teneur en collagène, le test de l'inhibiteur de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. RÉSULTATS: La propriété thermique indiquait des pics endothermes avec des températures de fusion à 40,89 ± 0,27 °C et 69,64 ± 0,34 °C pour les cires dures et douces de son de riz, respectivement. Les principaux acides gras des cires douces de son de riz étaient des acides oléiques (31,68 ± 0,75 %) et des acides linoléiques (27,19 ± 0,40 %), tandis que ceux des cires dures de son de riz étaient des acides palmitiques (36,24 ± 1,08 %) et des acides stéariques (35,21 ± 4,51 %). Le dosage de la cytotoxicité dans les cellules individuelles et les cellules de co­culture a montré la non­cytotoxicité des cires douces de son de riz (0,0001 à 1 mg/ml) et des cires dures de son de riz (0,0001 à 0,1 mg/ml). Les activités antivieillissement de la peau de 1 mg/ml de cire douce de son de riz et de 0,1 mg/ml de cire dure de son de riz comprenaient l'inhibition de la mélanogenèse par suppression des enzymes de la tyrosinase et de la protéine liée à la tyrosinase 2, l'activité antioxydante par protection cellulaire contre les dommages et la mort cellulaires, la stimulation du collagène, la suppression de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. CONCLUSIONS: Les résultats de l'étude indiquent que les cires dures et douces de son de riz peuvent potentiellement être appliquées comme ingrédients fonctionnels dans des formulations contre le vieillissement de la peau et fournir un bénéfice supérieur en termes d'hydratation de la peau.

Cordyceps militaris polysaccharides: preparation and topical product application.

BACKGROUND: Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice. RESULTS: The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers. CONCLUSIONS: Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient.

Nanocomplex of quaternized cyclodextrin grafted chitosan and hyaluronic acid for a skin delivery.

Water soluble quaternized cyclodexrin grafted chitosan (QCD-g-CS) was synthesized by combining both beneficial properties of ß-cyclodextrin (ß-CD) and the chitosan (CS) backbone. The chitosan backbone exhibits positive charges, while the ß-CD moieties are available to include hydrophobic guest molecules into the cavity. The present work demonstrates a formation of nanocomplexes by simple mixing of the cationic QCD-g-CS with three different molecular weights of anionic Hyaluronic acid (low, medium and high HA; LHA, MHA and HHA, respectively). The HA is well-known on providing hydration to the skin and normalize keratinization. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits skin absorption. The polyelectrolyte nanocomplexes between QCD-g-CS and HA formed through the electrostatic interactions were confirmed by FTIR. Particle size of HA nanocomplexes were greater than that of free QCD-g-CS and increased with an increase in HA content. The complex of LHA and MHA improve the water retention capacity as well as ability to control the release of HA to be slower than the original HA. The release of both LHA and MHA from their complexes were both limited diffusion kinetics. Pronounced effect of small particle sizes of LHA complexes was found to benefit skin penetration. Clinical study indicated that LHA complexes improved skin texture and elasticity due to an increase in skin hydration. It is suggested that the QCD-g-CS in combination with anionic hydrophilic HA can be used as a promising polysaccharide-based skin delivery system.

Polymethoxyflavones from Kaempferia parviflora ameliorate skin aging in primary human dermal fibroblasts and ex vivo human skin.

Skin aging is accompanied by an increase in the number of senescent cells, resulting in various pathological outcomes. These include inflammation, impaired barrier function, and susceptibility to skin disorders such as cancer. Kaempferia parviflora (Thai black ginger), a medicinal plant native to Thailand, has been shown to counteract inflammation, cancer, and senescence. This study demonstrates that polymethoxyflavones (5,7-dimethoxyflavone, 5,7,4'-trimethoxyflavone, and 3,5,7,3',4'-pentamethoxyflavone) purified from K. parviflora rhizomes suppressed cellular senescence, reactive oxygen species, and the senescence-associated secretory phenotype in primary human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, they increased tropocollagen synthesis and alleviated free radical-induced cellular and mitochondrial damage. Moreover, the compounds mitigated chronological aging in a human ex vivo skin model by attenuating senescence and restoring expression of essential components of the extracellular matrix, including collagen type I, fibrillin-1, and hyaluronic acid. Finally, we report that polymethoxyflavones enhanced epidermal thickness and epidermal-dermal stability, while blocking age-related inflammation in skin explants. Our findings support the use of polymethoxyflavones from K. parviflora as natural anti-aging agents, highlighting their potential as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products.

Phyllanthus emblica L. (amla) branch: A safe and effective ingredient against skin aging.

BACKGROUND AND AIM: Skin aging influences the changes in skin, including skin dryness, wrinkle, and irregular pigmentation. Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) branch has shown several benefits, but not the anti-skin aging. The study aimed to evaluate the anti-skin aging efficacy of amla branch. EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE: Amla branches were standardized the phenolic acids. The extract was investigated anti-skin aging activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanogenesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assays. Topical gel containing extract was prepared and evaluated the skin irritation by a single closed patch test. Randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study was performed in 20 volunteers for 84 consecutive days. The tested skin was evaluated by Chromameter® CR 400, Dermalab® USB, Mexameter® MX 18, Corneometer® CM 825, and Visioscan® VC 98. RESULTS: Amla branch extract, a dark brown powder, consisted a variety of phenolic acids, mainly sinapic and ferulic acids. The extract exhibited the potent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities in vitro assays and the melanin suppression through inhibition of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activities, the strong antioxidant, and the potent matrix metalloproteinase-2 in cellular assays at 0.1 mg/mL. Topical gel containing 0.1% extract was a stable and safe formulation. Clinical study was proved the superior anti-skin aging efficacy, including the lightening skin color, the enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, and the skin wrinkle reduction. CONCLUSION: The study results suggested that amla branch is a rich source of bioactive compounds and can be a potential ingredient for utilization in anti-skin aging products.

Formulation and efficacy evaluation of the safe and efficient moisturizing snow mushroom hand sanitizer.

OBJECTIVES: Snow fungus or snow mushroom or white jelly mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), the edible mushroom, was formulated into hand sanitizer in form of moisturizing alcohol-based hand rub (ABHR) gel. METHODS: The stable base ABHRs were developed. The preferred bases were incorporated with various concentrations of snow mushroom extract. The stable and preferred snow mushroom ABHR was moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies evaluated in 20 human volunteers in comparison with its placebo. RESULTS: The stable hand sanitizer gel bases containing 66.5% of ethanol and 0.3% of triclosan were developed and incorporated with the extract of snow mushroom polysaccharide. Of which, the preparations containing 10% of snow mushroom and 0.3% of gelling agent gained the highest preferences as assessed in 20 Thai volunteers. The snow mushroom hand sanitizer was proved to be none irritated in the same group of the volunteers as was the placebo. The snow mushroom gel significantly (P < .05) moist the skin better than the placebo at all time of the interval assessment until the end of the study at 180 minutes. The hand sanitizers were confirmed on their anti-septic, at which the efficacies of the active and placebo ABHR were comparable (P = .90). CONCLUSIONS: Snow mushroom ABHR gel with its confirmed moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies is presented. It is meetings with the recommendation on hand hygienic improvement to combat the infections of diseases spreading. The preparation can be frequency applied with its proved skin hydrating efficacy co-contributes in a good condition of hand hygiene.

Para rubber seed oil: The safe and efficient bio-material for hair loss treatment.

OBJECTIVES: Para rubber (Hevea brasiliensis (Willd. ex A. Juss.) Müll. Arg.)) is the important crop of the word. It has been vastly used in biomedical products. However, its pharmacologically application besides the latex is sparely to be explored especially the seed. Cellular biological activities of the standardized para rubber seed oil for hair loss treatment were therefore assessed. METHODS: Para rubber seed oil was prepared and standardized using GC/MS on the basis of its pharmacologically active fatty acids. The oil was safety assessed in human dermal papilla and DU-145 human prostate carcinoma. Cellular antioxidant activity was determined as well as proliferation stimulating efficacy and inhibitory effect against 5α-reductase. RESULTS: Oleic acid, fatty acid of cutaneous benefits, was majorly detected in the oil and followed by linoleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. The standardized para rubber seed oil was proved to be safe on human follicle dermal papilla and DU-145 human prostate carcinoma at the concentration of 0.1-50 and 0.1-100 µg/mL, respectively. The standardized para rubber seed oil stimulated the cell proliferation and posed cellular antioxidant activity in human dermal papilla at a comparable potency to minoxidil, dutasteride and vitamin C at the same tested concentration. In addition, the standardized para rubber seed oil inhibited 5α-reductase as examined in DU-145 human prostate carcinoma, although at a lesser degree than the standards at the same tested concentration. CONCLUSIONS: The standardized para rubber seed oil is evidenced as the safe and efficient bio-oil to be used for hair growth stimulating or reduce/suppress hair loss treatment.

Phenolic-rich Pomegranate Peel Extract: In Vitro, Cellular, and In Vivo Activities for Skin Hyperpigmentation Treatment.

The pomegranate phenolics are reported to have cutaneous benefits and to be effective in treating skin disorders, including hyperpigmentation. In this context, a preparation method was developed by which to obtain phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract. Sinapic acid was presented as the major pomegranate peel phenolics, followed by gallic and ellagic acids, and 4 additional phenolics. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity with an in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory effect. The skin hyperpigmentation treating potency was confirmed by the suppression of cellular melanogenesis through tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitions as examined in the B16F10 melanoma cells. Cellular antioxidant and proliferative activities of the extract toward human dermal fibroblasts were evidenced, as well as an inhibitory effect against MMP-2. The extract was developed into the stable serum and mask. The products were proved to be non-irritated in 30 Thai volunteers participating in a single application closed patch test. A split-face, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled test of the skin lightening effect was evaluated in the 30 volunteers over 28 consecutive daily treatments and monitored by the Mexameter MX 18. The active serum and mask were better in facial skin lightening efficacy than the placebo (p < 0.005). That was in accordance with the sensory evaluation scored by the volunteers. Phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract is evidenced as a safe herbal derived material promising for skin hyperpigmentation treatment. Supportive information regarding chemical and biological profiles is presented with the confirmed safety and cutaneous benefits in volunteers.

Improved Stability of Butterfly Pea Anthocyanins with Biopolymeric Walls.

Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) anthocyanins are important natural food colorants. However, the instability hinders industrial applications. The butterfly pea anthocyanin extract was prepared and mixed with biopolymeric wall systems such as maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum at 1/4 and 1/5 ratios with or without acidified condition, and assessed using the accelerated stability test. The total anthocyanin content (TAC) and color were reassessed. The biopolymeric walls of MD and GA (1/5) under acidified condition exhibited best stability enhancement in comparison with the unprotected one (12.04% ± 4.49% and 85.37% ± 0.22% TAC reduction, respectively). a* and b shifts of the protected system were 4.76% ± 0.00% and 0.28% ± 0.00%, respectively. The particle size of this system was 95.44 ± 1.57 µm. This stabilized anthocyanin extract can, therefore, be used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Development of para rubber seed oil as the efficient makeup remover

The para rubber tree (Hevea basilensis) is an economically important tropical tree species that produces natural rubber, a valuable industrial raw material. Innovative products that are derived from by-products from the rubber production process, such as seeds, are important for the sustainability of the para rubber industry. Therefore we subjectively assessed para rubber seed oil for its makeup-removal efficacy and developed it into a makeup cleansing product with appropriate quality control measures for the cosmetic industry. The makeup-removal efficacy of para rubber seed oil was analyzed using a validated UV-Vis spectroscopy, which indicated that the oil removed 86.21 ± 2.48% of liquid foundation [relative standard deviation (RSD) = 2.88%]. Therefore, we developed stable makeup removers containing 40-70% para rubber seed oil. Bio-oil removers containing 50% and 60% oil had the best appearance and texture and were subsequently evaluated for their makeup-removal efficacy. The bio-oil remover with the higher oil content was significantly better at removing makeup (95.26 ± 0.97% removal by the 60% oil compared with 73.88 ± 3.97% removal by the 50% oil). To conclude, para rubber seed oil is a promising new bio-oil for the cosmetic industry, which broadens consumers' choices of bio-oil makeup removers. We believe that the manufacture and quality control of this innovative and efficient makeup remover are feasible on an industrial scale.

Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin-disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported. AIMS: The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated. METHODS: The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory-evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti-sebum efficacy was split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape® on forehead and nose. RESULTS: The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application. CONCLUSIONS: Anti-sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy.

Development and clinical efficacy evaluation of anti-greasy green tea tonner on facial skin

ABSTRACT Green tea (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Theaceae) polyphenols have activities against skin disorders; however, anti-sebum efficacy of green tea cosmetic has sparely been reported. The facial tonner containing green tea was therefore developed and clinical evaluated. The base formulas which stabled following accelerated tests were sensorial assessed in ten volunteers. The base with hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin and panthenol (totally 3.6%) with the significant (p < 0.05) preference (82.3 ± 0.55%) over the others was further developed to green tea preparations. All of the products were stable and caused none of skin irritation as closed patch tested in twenty volunteers. Thereafter, they were clinical evaluated in the same group of the volunteers and monitored with Sebumeter® by means of a split-face, randomized single-blind, placebo-controlled study. Anti-greasy efficacy of 2, 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were 3.47 ± 0.10, 8.18 ± 0.44 and 17.87 ± 0.46% following 14 days of facial treatment. The efficiency was pronounced at the end of the study; day 28 (8.48 ± 0.13, 20.26 ± 1.03 and 31.57 ± 1.22%). Anti-sebum efficacy of the 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were significantly better than the base formula (day 14; p < 0.05, day 28; p < 0.01). The efficacy of 28 days treatment was significantly better than 14 days (p < 0.05). The safe and efficient green tea tonner for oily face treatment was therefore approved in this context.

Plants and Natural Products for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation - A Review.

Skin hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors that upregulate melanogenesis. Plants and natural products with skin-whitening effects are gaining interest among consumers and researchers because they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic alternatives. This review extensively summarizes the status of plants and natural products currently used in skin-whitening cosmetics as well as potential candidates for future use, because the scope of natural choices for efficient treatment of skin hyperpigmentation is rapidly widening. Biological activities of plants and natural extracts are therefore available for cosmetic formulators and dermatologists interested in naturally derived ingredients for skin hyperpigmentation treatment and in accordance with the consumers' preferences and expectations upon natural cosmetic products.

Preparation and characterization of nanoparticles from quaternized cyclodextrin-grafted chitosan associated with hyaluronic acid for cosmetics.

Hyaluronic acid (HA, 20-50 kDa) is a hydrophilic macromolecule with anti-wrinkle effects and moisturizing properties. However, its high molecular weight prevents it from penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin and, thus, limits its benefits to topical effects. Thus, the objective of this study is to prepare nanoparticles of quaternized cyclodextrin-grafted chitosan (QCD-g-CS) associated with HA in different molar ratios of QCD-g-CS and HA. The conjugation of the carboxylic moieties of HA and the amides of QCD-g-CS was confirmed by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Thus, the system was optimized to create nanoparticles with a small size (235.63 ±â€¯21.89 nm), narrow polydispersity index (0.13 ±â€¯0.02), and zeta potential of 16.07 ±â€¯0.65 mV. The association efficiency and loading efficiency were determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography as 86.77 ±â€¯0.69% and 10.85 ±â€¯0.09%, respectively. The spherical morphology of the obtained nanoparticles was confirmed by transmission electron microscopy. Moreover, the in-vitro hydrating ability was significantly higher (P < 0.001) than that of bulk HA (3.29 ±â€¯0.41 and 1.71 ±â€¯0.05 g water/g sample, respectively). The safety of these nanoparticles at concentrations in the range of 0.01-0.10 mg/ml was confirmed via tests on human skin fibroblasts. Together, these results demonstrate that the developed nanoparticles are promising for future applications in cosmetics.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences.

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

In vitro and cellular activities of the selected fruits residues for skin aging treatment.

Peel extracts of litchi and rambutan, and that of tamarind seed coat were investigated in relation to their utility in skin-aging treatments. Standardized extracts of tamarind were significantly (p < 0.05) more efficient at O2 •- scavenging (IC50 = 27.44 ± 0.09) than those of litchi and rambutan (IC50 = 29.57 ± 0.30 and 39.49 ± 0.52 µg/ml, respectively) and the quercetin standard (IC50 = 31.88 ± 0.15 µg/ml). Litchi extract proved significantly (p < 0.05) more effective for elastase and collagenase inhibition (88.29 ± 0.25% and 79.46 ± 0.92%, respectively) than tamarind (35.43 ± 0.68% and 57.69 ± 5.97%) or rambutan (31.08 ± 0.38% and 53.99 ± 6.18%). All extracts were safe to human skin fibroblasts and inhibit MMP-2, with litchi extract showing significantly (p < 0.01) enhanced inhibition over the standard, vitamin C (23.75 ± 2.74% and 10.42 ± 5.91% at 0.05 mg/ml, respectively). Extracts suppress melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells through inhibition of tyrosinase and TRP-2, with litchi extract being the most potent, even more so than kojic acid (standard). These results highlight the potential for adding value to agro-industrial waste, as the basis for the sustainable production of innovative, safe, anti-aging cosmetic products.