An Eco-Friendly Extraction and Purification Approach for Obtaining Active Ingredients for Cosmetics from Two Marine Brown Seaweeds.

Brown seaweeds are attracting attention due to their richness in bioactive compounds, in particular, their phlorotannins. We present here a case study of two Fucales, Ascophyllum nodosum and Halidrys siliquosa, sustainably collected, to produce active polyphenols for the cosmetics sector. Phenolic contents of crude extracts, obtained by Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE), were more elevated in H. siliquosa at 100.05 mg/g dry weight (DW) than in A. nodosum (29.51 mg/g DW), considering 3 cycles with cell inversion. The temperature of extraction for a high phenolic content and high associated antioxidant activities close to positive controls was 150 °C for both algae and the use of only one cycle was enough. A semi-purification process using Solid-phase Extraction (SPE) was carried out on both ASE crude extracts (one per species). The majority of phlorotannins were found in the ethanolic SPE fraction for A. nodosum and the hydroethanolic one for H. siliquosa. The SPE process allowed us to obtain more concentrated fractions of active phenolic compounds (×1.8 and 2 in A. nodosum and H. siliquosa, respectively). Results are discussed in regard to the exploitation of seaweeds in Brittany and to the research of sustainable processes to produce active natural ingredients for cosmetics.

UV filters in everyday cosmetic products, a comparative study.

Today, UV filters are found as contaminants in a variety of biological fluids and environment, e.g. in vegetable crops and surface water. This is because UV filters are widely used in everyday products. In this context, we focused this study on cosmetic products, in order to assess the importance of this source of contamination. The study of 742 cosmetic products, excluding actual sunscreen products, but including hygiene, personal care and make-up products and perfumes revealed that the most common UV filters present are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (90 products or 12.1% of products tested), octyl methoxycinnamate (75 products or 10.1% of products tested), octocrylene (62 products or 8.3% of products tested), octyl salicylate (43 products or 5.8% of products tested) and titanium dioxide (33 products or 4.4% of products tested). Very few UV filters are found in the hygiene products (only in 12 shampoos/conditioners and in 2 shower gels) and deodorants and toothpastes are completely free of them. Conversely, make-up and perfumes are frequently formulated with at least one UV filter. Seventy-five of the two hundred and forty-four (or 30.7%) skincare products studied contained at least one UV filter. 49.1 of the makeup products studied and 74.3% of perfumes contained it.

The Role of Essential Oils in Homemade Cosmetics: A Study of 140 Recipes.

Two recent trends that have developed simultaneously are a mistrust of health products by some of the population and the growing popularity of essential oils. The objective of this study was to analyze recipes with essential oils found on the internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. Therefore, we conducted a study of 140 recipes for personal care and hygiene products that incorporate one or more essential oils. This analysis revealed that numerous essential oils are called for in these recipes, derived from plants belonging to a wide diversity of botanical families. There was a significant difference (p=0.0026) in the number of essential oils listed in the recipes for facial care and body care recipes. There was also a statistically significant difference (p=2.54E-5) in the amount of essential oil to be added, expressed in drops, according to the type of product being made. A common characteristic of most of the recipes was the absence of any antimicrobial agents or antioxidants, which poses serious issues of preservation for the finished products. Recipes with essential oils pose many issues. The first issue lies in the quantities of the different raw materials to be incorporated; it influences the final essential oil concentration. The second issue concerns the adverse effects (photosensitization, for example) and contraindications (pregnant women, nursing women) of certain essential oils. Finally, it is not possible to carry out physicochemical testing raw materials and finish preparation.

Analysis of 275 DIY recipes for eye cosmetics and their possible safety issues.

Some consumers have become very suspicious of certain health products such as medicines, medical devices and cosmetics. This can lead them to choose to make such products themselves. The aim of this work was therefore to analyse recipes for eye makeup and makeup removal products, as well as eyelash and eye contour care products. We collected recipes for do-it-yourself products found on blogs and social media (YouTube channels, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and TikTok) in French and English and then analyse their composition as well as how practical it is to make these recipes. We compiled and studied 275 recipes for products that can be used in or around the eye (periocular area). This work has shown that the quantities of the various ingredients are very imprecise, that the proposed substances are not suitable for the intended use and that the preservation of the finished products is not sufficiently guaranteed. The results obtained suggest that recipes for products intended for use in the eye or in the periocular area are not safe to use and that their use is likely to have relatively serious consequences.

Certaines personnes sont devenues très méfiantes vis-à-vis des différents produits de santé que sont les médicaments, les dispositifs médicaux et les cosmétiques. Dans ce contexte, elles font le choix de réaliser elles-mêmes leurs produits. Le but de ce travail était l'analyse de recettes de produits de maquillage et de démaquillage des yeux, ainsi que de produits de soin des cils et du contour des yeux. Dans cet objectif, nous avons collecté des recettes de produits à faire soi-même sur des blogues et des médias sociaux (chaînes YouTube, comptes Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram et Tiktok) de langue française et de langue anglaise, puis nous les avons analysé d'un point de vue de leur réalisation pratique et de leur composition. 275 recettes de produits utilisables au niveau de l'œil ou de la zone périoculaire ont ainsi été compilées et étudiées. Il ressort de ce travail que les quantités des différents ingrédients sont très imprécises, que les substances proposées ne sont pas adaptées à l'usage visé et que la conservation des produits finis n'est pas suffisamment assurée. Les résultats obtenus suggèrent que les recettes de produits destinés à être utilisés au niveau de l'œil ou dans la zone péri-oculaire ne sont pas sûrs d'emploi et que leur utilisation est susceptible d'engendrer des conséquences relativement graves.

[History of socio-esthetics]. / Histoire de la socio-esthétique.

Concerns about physical appearance and the image projected to others have always existed. Physical difference socially generates stigmatising behaviour, of which women are the first victims. The idea of repairing the body is at the basis of the development of aesthetic care. Socio-aesthetics is a modern speciality, which has developed by linking up with other medical and paramedical disciplines.

A study of 84 homemade toothpaste recipes and the problems arising from the type of product.

Objective Growing consumer mistrust of a number of ingredients used in industry has led to the development of a trend for homemade products. This now affects all types of sectors, but particularly the hygiene sector for shampoo and toothpaste products. The aim of this work is therefore to study recipes found on the internet for these types of products in order to assess risks associated with their use.Materials and methods Eighty-four recipes were collected from the internet and their composition was analysed.Results None of the 84 formulas analysed contained any fluoride salts, well known for their oral health benefits. Eighty percent did not contain a foaming agent either, which is very useful in the cleaning function of toothpastes. Furthermore, the quantities of substances to be used were usually expressed in tablespoons or teaspoons, measures which are imprecise and could, for example, lead someone to use large quantities of an abrasive agent such as calcium carbonate.Conclusions Attention should be drawn to homemade toothpaste recipes that contain no fluoride and whose abrasivity, purity and microbial contamination cannot be verified.

What level of photoprotection can be obtained using facial mask? Determining effectiveness using an in vitro method.

It has become a general practice worldwide to wear a face mask serving as a barrier against the transmission of pathogens. This has prompted us to investigate whether masks could also protect our skin from UV radiation. We have studied eight masks, four surgical and four "homemade" using an in vitro method. The study demonstrated that they all offered protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. As with clothing, fabric masks offer the highest level of protection against UV radiation.

Demonstration of the dangerous nature of 'homemade' sunscreen recipes.

BACKGROUND: Following a growing mistrust in a certain number of ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, it has become popular in recent years for consumers to make their own products at home. This trend now touches on all areas of the industry, but is especially found in the hygiene sector, with shampoos and toothpaste, and the care sector, with moisturizers and sunscreen, products. OBJECTIVES: The objective of this study is to analyze sunscreen recipes found on the Internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Fifteen Internet recipes were chosen, and then, the products were made in the laboratory following the protocols described. Using an in vitro method, the following efficacy indicators were determined for the preparations made: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the Production Factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA), and the critical wavelength (λc ). RESULTS: Three of the 15 recipes studied do not contain any sunscreen and therefore constitute a major risk for users in case of exposure to the sun. The other 12 cannot be considered as sun protection products since all of them have an SPF under 6, the threshold value required in Europe. CONCLUSION: The recipes that we collected on the Internet are very dangerous since some of them have no photoprotective effect whatsoever and most of them do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection for the persons using them.

Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources.

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.

Study of the composition of 140 shampoos: similarities and differences depending on the sales channel used.

Shampoo is a hair care product designed to clean the skin and hair of the scalp. Among the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents. The purpose of this study was to identify the composition of 140 shampoos available in pharmacies, in stores of a mass-market chain, or from mail-order retailers. Forty-one shampoos were advertised as "gentle", 12 as specially formulated for infants, 35 as anti-dandruff, and 52 without any particular claim. We analysed the cleansing base, preservatives, and anti-dandruff agents when relevant and identified the allergens regardless of whether or not they are listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as one of the 26 regulated substances. We discovered that unlike shampoos sold in stores of a mass-market chain and those available from mail-order retailers, those sold in pharmacies expose users to some of the 26 substances listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. We also determined that baby shampoos sold in pharmacies are allergen-free. Regarding anti-dandruff formulations, the largest variety of active ingredients was found in shampoos sold in pharmacies. Overall, the most common active ingredients were olamines, zinc pyrithione, azoles, selenium disulphide, and plant extracts. Shampoos sold in pharmacies appear to contain fewer allergens listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 compared to those sold elsewhere.

Evaluation of Different Colorless Nail Polishes Used as Supportive Care in Patients with Cancer in Terms of Photoprotective Efficacy and Water Resistance.

Background: In patients undergoing chemotherapy, the application of nail polish and/or a colorless base coat is recommended in order to prevent the adverse effects that can occur on the nails throughout treatment. Objective: In this study, the photoprotective effects of different clear nail polishes were examined. Methods: Twelve commercially available, colorless nail products were tested in vitro. Two layers of the product were applied, as recommended to patients, on polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates. The efficacy indices in the ultraviolet (UV) B sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA regions were then determined with an integrated sphere spectophotometer. Water resistance was also evaluated. Results: Certain colorless nail polishes, such as Mavala 6 Osaka or CC bleaching base with silicium for yellow nails (Vitry), can provide a significant level of photoprotection, with SPF values of above 150. All of the products tested, with the exception of the aqueous gel, are water resistant. Conclusion: Colorless nail polish applied in two layers provides UV protection for the nails in the UVB and UVA ranges. The nature of the vehicle influences the photoprotective efficiency and the water resistance.

[Comparison of different nail polish in terms of photoprotective efficacy. Interest of their use as supportive care in patients with cancer]. / Comparaison de différents vernis à ongles en matière d'efficacité photoprotectrice. Étude de l'intérêt de leur recours en soins de support en oncologie.

Many different chemotherapy drugs including cytotoxics and docetaxel in particular are responsible for side effects involving the nails. To prevent these negative effects, patients are advised to apply nail polish. The aim of this article is to study the photoprotective effect of various products applied in two layers. Sixty-five commercially-available products were tested in vitro. It was found that certain bases can provide non-negligible levels of photoprotection on their own. However, it was noted that nail polishes capable of forming an opaque film were the most interesting, with Sun protection factor (SPF) values of 500 or more, which is a lot higher than the values obtained with sun protection products and similar to levels which can be reached with protection through clothing. It appears that opaque nail polishes applied in two layers are likely to provide excellent protection for nails regarding ultraviolet radiation. If the dark colors are particularly effective towards the ultraviolet radiation, we can also obtain a very good protection with varied colors. The use of one or several UV filters in the formula of the mail polish does not appear to have a particular interest.

BB creams and their photoprotective effect.

BB creams appeared on the market quite recently. These creams, which give a perfect complexion by covering up the skin's blemishes, have a photoprotective effect in the majority of cases. An SPF value ranging from 10 to 45 concerning the products we tested is displayed on the packaging. The 21 commercially-available BB creams were tested to assess their efficacy (determination of the SPF) and their photostability (determination of their efficacy after UV irradiation). It was shown that 70% of the products tested have an SPF determined in vitro by us which matches the SPF displayed on the product. For the remaining 30%, it can be seen that products have SPF values of between 2 and 10 times lower than those indicated on the products. It can also be noted that there is a large disparity in terms of photostability since, under the same experimental conditions, however, some products only lose 5% of their photoprotective efficacy, whereas others lose 60%.

Research on the immunosuppressive activity of ingredients contained in sunscreens.

The immunosuppressive properties of Benzophenone-4, an UV-filter and three ingredients, Allantoin, Bisabolol and Enoxolon used in sunscreen formulation, previously characterized as anti-inflammatory compounds, are studied. The results of this study demonstrate that four tested molecules have effects on DCs and T cells which are the most important cells of the immune system. The impact is also visible on keratinocyte cells which are in the direct contact with skin sunscreens. Each ingredient should be used with caution at reduced doses or even removed from some cosmetic preparations, such as sunscreens.

Structural elucidation, in vitro antioxidant and photoprotective capacities of a purified polyphenolic-enriched fraction from a saltmarsh plant.

In temperate saltmarshes, halophytic plants have to daily protect their internal tissues against sunlight and UV rays. Consequently, they develop adaptive responses such as the synthesis of secondary metabolites, including polyphenols. The present study focused on the biological activities of fractions enriched in polyphenols from Salicornia ramosissima. Three different extracts were obtained by purification processes to concentrate polyphenols: a crude hydroalcoholic extract, and two purified fractions: an ethyl acetate fraction (EAF) and an aqueous fraction. Phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant (DPPH radical-scavenging activity, reducing activity, ß-carotene linoleic acid system and the ORAC method) and sunscreen properties (Sun Protection Factor and UVA-Protection Factor) were assessed by in vitro tests. The purification process was effective in increasing phenolic and flavonoid contents as well as antioxidant and sunscreen capacities of the EAF. The EAF appeared to be a broad spectrum UV absorber. The chemical structure of 10 EAF polyphenols was elucidated using 2D NMR and mass spectrometry spectra. Furthermore, a correlation was observed between phenolic composition and biological activity. These findings are encouraging for the future use of S. ramosissima as a potential source of antioxidant and photoprotectant molecules for industrial applications.

Marennine, promising blue pigments from a widespread Haslea diatom species complex.

In diatoms, the main photosynthetic pigments are chlorophylls a and c, fucoxanthin, diadinoxanthin and diatoxanthin. The marine pennate diatom Haslea ostrearia has long been known for producing, in addition to these generic pigments, a water-soluble blue pigment, marennine. This pigment, responsible for the greening of oysters in western France, presents different biological activities: allelopathic, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, and growth-inhibiting. A method to extract and purify marennine has been developed, but its chemical structure could hitherto not be resolved. For decades, H. ostrearia was the only organism known to produce marennine, and can be found worldwide. Our knowledge about H. ostrearia-like diatom biodiversity has recently been extended with the discovery of several new species of blue diatoms, the recently described H. karadagensis, H. silbo sp. inedit. and H. provincialis sp. inedit. These blue diatoms produce different marennine-like pigments, which belong to the same chemical family and present similar biological activities. Aside from being a potential source of natural blue pigments, H. ostrearia-like diatoms thus present a commercial potential for aquaculture, cosmetics, food and health industries.

Lichenic extracts and metabolites as UV filters.

Three lichen extracts and ten lichenic compounds have been screened for their photoprotective activities. The determination of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Protection Factor-UVA (PF-UVA) values was done in vitro. Among them, a Lasallia pustulata extract and gyrophoric acid exhibited SPF values over 5, which is better than Homosalate (SPF≈4). Their photoprotective properties are only slightly modified after a 2-hours period of irradiation. Salazinic acid and L. pustulata presented characteristics of a UVA booster like the butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) (PF-UVA≈2 vs. 2.8 for Avobenzone). Salazinic acid was a better anion superoxide scavenger than ascorbic acid and none of them exhibited a photosensitizing cytotoxicity by exposing them on HaCaT cells to UVA radiations (photo-irritancy factor PIF<5).

Influence of certain ingredients on the SPF determined in vivo.

When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.