Facial Aging Improvement Case Study Using a Novel Combination of Retinol, Niacinamide, and Terminalia Chebula.

For decades, retinoids have been considered the gold standard of treatment for a variety of skin conditions.1,2 As the bioavailable form of vitamin A, retinoic acid has demonstrated the ability to reduce skin discoloration, stimulate collagen production, reduce rhytids, improve acne, and uneven skin texture.3,4 Retinoic acid is a potent drug with high bioavailability. Challenges with such a product include skin sensitivity and retinoid dermatitis.1,5 This potential irritation and discomfort may hinder patient compliance reducing visible results. The non-prescription vitamin A ingredient retinol is an effective and less irritating alternative, as it is converted into retinoic acid within the skin, causing little to no irritation when used topically. Intensive Age Refining Treatment: 0.5% pure retinol night by PCA SKIN® contains 0.5% retinol, protected and delivered into the skin with a multi-layered liposomal delivery technology. This development addresses the inherent instability of retinol,1,2,3 as well as the mitigation of irritation with the goal of enhancing patient compliance and visible results. This formulation also features niacinamide and terminalia chebula to further support the anti-aging benefits of retinol. The 12-week in vivo use of this potent, yet non-irritating retinol topical demonstrates improved patient compliance and satisfaction due to tolerability and enhanced efficacy in the improvement in overall signs of healthy skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(7):784-788. doi:10.36849/JDD.6621.

Professional-Grade TCA-Lactic Acid Chemical Peel: Elucidating Mode of Action to Treat Photoaging and Hyperpigmentation.

Chemical peeling is usually performed by dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians for the treatment of photo-aged skin, dyspigmented skin, skin prone to acne eruption, and pre-cancerous skin lesions, etc. In this research paper, we report our investigative findings to understand the mode of action of a commercial professional chemical peel to treat hyperpigmented and photoaged skin. In the in-vitro experiments, we found that the peel inhibits enzymes that are responsible for degradation of collagen and elastin, and the production of melanin pigment. It was surprising to observe that trichloroacetic acid (TCA), which is considered a workhorse of chemical peels for its cauterant action, could synergistically promote the inhibitory action of lactic acid. The rationale behind this synergistic effect could be the conformational change in TCA from linear structure to ring-like structure, which was elucidated through sequential docking using Rosetta software. The in-vitro results on collagen and elastin were corroborated by up-regulation of COL1A, COL3B, fibronectin, and elastin gene expression from 3D human skin equivalents treated with the peel. The findings were further validated through ex-vivo testing on human skin biopsy. The peel significantly inhibits the production of total melanin, and ameliorates photo-damage that was evident through repair of the collagen in the skin exposed to a biological effective dose of UV daily light (6 J/cm2). These research findings have implications for product developers and users (dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians) in improving safety and efficacy of chemical peels/peeling.