A highly soluble form of rutin for instant resolution of mask-wearing related disorders.

BACKGROUND: The COVID-19 pandemic brought about a new normal, necessitating the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) like face shields, surgical masks, gloves, and goggles. However, prolonged mask-wearing introduced skin-related issues due to changes in the skin's microenvironment, including increased humidity and temperature, as well as pressure on the skin. These factors led to skin deformation, vascular issues, edema, and inflammation, resulting in discomfort and cosmetic concerns. Clinical reports quickly highlighted the consequences of long-term mask use, including increased cases of "maskne" (mask-related acne) or mask-wearing related disorders such as rosacea flare-ups, skin-barrier defects, itching, erythema, redness, hyperpigmentation, and lichenification. Some of these issues, like inflammation, oxidative stress, and poor wound healing, could be directly linked to acne-related disorders or skin hypoxia. AIM: To address these problems, researchers turned to rutin, a well-known flavonoid with antioxidant, vasoactive, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, rutin's poor water solubility presented a challenge for cosmetic formulations. To overcome this limitation, a highly water-soluble form of rutin was developed, making it suitable for use at higher concentrations. METHODS: In vitro and ex vivo tests were conducted, as well as an innovative clinical trial including volunteers wearing surgical masks for at least 2 h, to evaluate the biological activity of this soluble rutin on the main skin concerns associated with mask-wearing (inflammation, oxidative stress, skin repair, hyperpigmentation, and skin redness). RESULTS: The in vitro results showed that the active ingredient significantly reduced oxidative stress, improved wound healing, and reduced inflammation. In dark skin explants, the active ingredient significantly reduced melanin content, indicating its lightening activity. This effect was confirmed in the clinical study, where brown spots decreased significantly after 4 days of application. Moreover, measurements on volunteers demonstrated a decrease in skin redness and vascularization after the active ingredient application, indicating inflammation and erythema reduction. Volunteers reported improved skin comfort. CONCLUSION: In summary, the COVID-19 pandemic led to various skin issues associated with mask-wearing. A highly soluble form of rutin was developed, which effectively addressed these concerns by reducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and hyperpigmentation while promoting wound healing. This soluble rutin offers a promising solution for the rapid treatment of maskne-related disorders and other skin problems caused by prolonged mask use.

Enzymatic Synthesis of α-Glucosyl-Baicalin through Transglucosylation via Cyclodextrin Glucanotransferase in Water.

Baicalin is a biologically active flavone glucuronide with poor water solubility that can be enhanced via glucosylation. In this study, the transglucosylation of baicalin was successfully achieved with CGTases from Thermoanaerobacter sp. and Bacillus macerans using α-cyclodextrin as a glucosyl donor. The synthesis of baicalin glucosides was optimized with CGTase from Thermoanaerobacter sp. Enzymatically modified baicalin derivatives were α-glucosylated with 1 to 17 glucose moieties. The two main glucosides were identified as Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4')-O-α-D-Glucopyranoside (BG1) and Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4')-O-α-D-Maltoside (BG2), thereby confirming recent findings reporting that glucuronyl groups are acceptors of this CGTase. Optimized conditions allowed for the attainment of yields above 85% (with a total glucoside content higher than 30 mM). BG1 and BG2 were purified via centrifugal partition chromatography after an enrichment through deglucosylation with amyloglucosidase. Transglucosylation increased the water solubility of BG1 by a factor of 188 in comparison to that of baicalin (molar concentrations), while the same value for BG2 was increased by a factor of 320. Finally, BG1 and BG2 were evaluated using antioxidant and anti-glycation assays. Both glucosides presented antioxidant and anti-glycation properties in the same order of magnitude as that of baicalin, thereby indicating their potential biological activity.

Gardenia jasminoides Extract, with a Melatonin-like Activity, Protects against Digital Stress and Reverses Signs of Aging.

Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging. "A melatonin-like ingredient" was discovered in the extract of Gardenia jasminoides, which acts as a filter against blue light and as a melatonin-like ingredient to prevent and stop premature aging. The extract showed significant protective effects on the mitochondrial network of primary fibroblasts, a significant decrease of -86% in oxidized proteins on skin explants, and preservation of the natural melatonin cycle in the co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes. Upon analysis using in silico methods, only the crocetin form, released through skin microbiota activation, was found to act as a melatonin-like molecule by interacting with the MT1-receptor, thus confirming its melatonin-like properties. Finally, clinical studies revealed a significant decrease in wrinkle number of -21% in comparison to the placebo. The extract showed strong protection against blue light damage and the prevention of premature aging through its melatonin-like properties.

Targeting SDF-1 as an efficient strategy to resolve skin hyperpigmentation issues with Himanthalia elongata extract.

BACKGROUND: During aging, human skin is facing hyperpigmentation disorders: senile lentigo (chronobiologic aging) leads to loss of melanogenesis' control while solar lentigo (UV exposure) promotes an increase of oxidized proteins, melanogenesis, and lipofuscin. AIMS: Stromal-cell-derived-factor-1 (SDF-1) was identified as key regulator of hyperpigmentation and its expression is reduced in senescent fibroblasts, highlighting this protein as new target for skin hyperpigmentation. MATERIALS: We developed two skin explant models mimicking of senile and solar lentigo, based on H2 O2 systemic treatment and UV irradiation, respectively. We evaluated Himanthalia elongata extract (HEX) on these models after 5 days of treatment and analyzed SDF-1 expression and skin pigmentation. For solar lentigo, we also analyzed oxidized proteins and lipofuscin accumulation. Finally, we evaluated HEX in vivo on nearly 100 multi ethnicities' volunteers. RESULTS: SDF-1 expression decreased in senile lentigo model, associated with hyperpigmentation. HEX application restored SDF-1 expression, leading to skin pigmentation decrease. For solar lentigo, we showed an impact of UVs on SDF-1 expression linked to hyperpigmentation, while the application of HEX restored SDF-1 expression and reduced skin pigmentation. On same model, HEX reduced oxidized proteins quantity and lipofuscin which increased after UV exposure. Clinically, HEX reduced dark spot pigmentation on Caucasian volunteers' hands and on Asian and African volunteers' face after 28 days. DISCUSSION: We have developed ex vivo models mimetic of senile and solar lentigo and showed for a very first time that SDF-1 can be also a key regulator for UV-induced hyperpigmentation. CONCLUSION: Our ex vivo and clinical studies highlighted the power of HEX with strong reduction of dark spots regardless of volunteers' ethnicities.

Action of Mangifera indica Leaf Extract on Acne-Prone Skin through Sebum Harmonization and Targeting C. acnes.

(1) Background: Preclinical studies report that the ethanolic fraction from Mangifera indica leaves is a potential anti-acne agent. Nevertheless, the biological activity of Mangifera indica leaves has scarcely been investigated, and additional data are needed, especially in a clinical setting, for establishing the actual effectiveness of Mangifera indica extract as an active component of anti-acne therapy. (2) Methods: The evaluation of the biological activity of Mangifera indica extract was carried out through different experimental phases, which comprised in silico, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical evaluations. (3) Results: In silico and in vitro studies allowed us to identify the phytomarkers carrying the activity of seboregulation and acne management. Results showed that Mangifera indica extract reduced lipid production by 40% in sebocytes, and an improvement of the sebum quality was reported after the treatment in analyses performed on sebaceous glands from skin explants. The evaluation of the sebum quantity and quality using triglyceride/free fatty acid analysis conducted on Caucasian volunteers evidenced a strong improvement and a reduction of porphyrins expression. The C. acnes lipase activity from a severe acne phylotype was evaluated in the presence of Mangifera indica, and a reduction by 29% was reported. In addition, the analysis of the skin microbiota documented that Mangifera indica protected the microbiota equilibrium while the placebo induced dysbiosis. (4) Conclusions: Our results showed that Mangifera indica is microbiota friendly and efficient against lipase activity of C. acnes and supports a role for Mangifera indica in the therapeutic strategy for prevention and treatment of acne.

Bacterial taxa predictive of hyperpigmented skins.

Background and Aims: Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell-derived factor-1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system. Here, we investigated whether the microbiota could play a role in the emergence of HPS. Methods: The clinical study involved 38 European women, selected from among 74 volunteers. Participants were divided into two groups depending on the spot areas measured on their faces. The study was designed to avoid conflicting factors: both groups presented similar skin pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and sebum levels. The two cohorts were also age-matched, with a mean of 29-years-old for both. Results: Alpha-diversity of the microbiota was similar for the two groups. On skins with more HPS, seven bacterial genera were identified in significantly higher proportions and included opportunistic pathogens and inflammatory bacteria. Six bacterial genera, including bacteria showing antioxidant and anti-UV properties, were identified in significantly higher proportions on less spotted skins. Cross-domain association networks revealed distinct co-occurrences of genera between the two groups, suggesting nonidentical community structures and exchanges, depending on the HPS status. Conclusion: Our results reveal specific microbiota composition and networks on skins based on HPS status. Changes could alter communication with the immune system, leading to the emergence of dark spots. As an essential part of the overall skin ecosystem, and through its interaction with the skin matrix, the skin microbiota and its maintenance could be considered a new target for skincare applications.

Mannose-6-phosphate complex and improvement in biomechanical properties of the skin.

BACKGROUND: The dermis is composed of a tangle of macromolecules that provides the skin its biomechanical properties. During chronological aging, fibroblasts lose their ability to synthesize collagen and an accumulation of matrix metalloproteinases leads to an increase in collagen degradation. As a result, there is a decline in the biomechanical properties of the skin. Skin aging is accelerated by external factors such as UV radiation and pollution, which induce accumulation of oxidants, and so of oxidized proteins in the skin. AIMS: Atomic force microscopy (AFM) has emerged as an alternative method for studying the biomechanical properties of skin cells and tissues. METHODS/RESULTS: Thus, we identified mannose-6-phosphate complex as a new powerful molecule capable of reversing the visible signs of aging by reorganizing the collagen network of the dermis and by improving the skin biomechanical properties. This effect was correlated with clinical studies that showed a marked antiaging effect through a reduction in the number of crow's feet and in the depth and size of neck wrinkles. CONCLUSION: Mannose-6-phosphate complex appeared to be able to protect proteins in the dermis scaffold against oxidation and degradation, allowing an improvement in the skin biomechanical properties.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

OBJECTIVE: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. METHOD: In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. RESULTS: We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

OBJECTIF: Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ¼. Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l'échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu'une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux. CONCLUSION: En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stressed conditions.

BACKGROUND: Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin. AIM: The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti-aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis. METHOD: We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, ß-endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over-expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement. RESULTS: The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of ß-endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up-regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters. CONCLUSION: Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well-being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

From stem cells protection to skin microbiota balance: Orobanche rapum extract, a new natural strategy.

BACKGROUND: Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders. AIMS: We hypothesized that reactivation of stem cells and maintenance of microbiota could be a disruptive strategy for younger and healthier skin. We thus developed a new plant extract that restores the entire skin renewal process by sequential activation from stem cells stimulation to microbiota protection. METHODS: We studied stem cells comportment in the presence of Orobanche rapum extract by survivin immunocytochemistry and caspases 3 and 9 dosages. We also analyzed epidermal differentiation markers by immunohistochemistry and lipids organization by GC/MS At the clinical level, we investigated the impact of O. rapum extract on microbiota and on skin aspect. RESULTS: We demonstrated an active protection of skin stem cells through the maintenance of their clone-forming capacity and resistance to UV through the overexpression of survivin coupled to caspases inhibition. Furthermore, we showed the restoration of epidermal differentiation markers and ceramide biosynthesis favorable to orthorhombic organization. Clinical studies, including microbiota analysis, showed an active skin surface renewal coupled with microbiota protection. CONCLUSION: We evidenced that our active ingredient is able to stimulate skin rejuvenation while protecting the cutaneous microbiota, creating healthier skin and thereby beauty.

Reactivating the extracellular matrix synthesis of sulfated glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans to improve the human skin aspect and its mechanical properties.

BACKGROUND: The aim of this study was to demonstrate that a defined cosmetic composition is able to induce an increase in the production of sulfated glycosaminoglycans (sGAGs) and/or proteoglycans and finally to demonstrate that the composition, through its combined action of enzyme production and synthesis of macromolecules, modulates organization and skin surface aspect with a benefit in antiaging applications. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Gene expression was studied by quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction using normal human dermal fibroblasts isolated from a 45-year-old donor skin dermis. De novo synthesis of sGAGs and proteoglycans was determined using Blyscan™ assay and/or immunohistochemical techniques. These studies were performed on normal human dermal fibroblasts (41- and 62-year-old donors) and on human skin explants. Dermis organization was studied either ex vivo on skin explants using bi-photon microscopy and transmission electron microscopy or directly in vivo on human volunteers by ultrasound technique. Skin surface modification was investigated in vivo using silicone replicas coupled with macrophotography, and the mechanical properties of the skin were studied using Cutometer. RESULTS: It was first shown that mRNA expression of several genes involved in the synthesis pathway of sGAG was stimulated. An increase in the de novo synthesis of sGAGs was shown at the cellular level despite the age of cells, and this phenomenon was clearly related to the previously observed stimulation of mRNA expression of genes. An increase in the expression of the corresponding core protein of decorin, perlecan, and versican and a stimulation of their respective sGAGs, such as chondroitin sulfate and heparan sulfate, were found on skin explants. The biosynthesis of macromolecules seems to be correlated at the microscopic level to a better organization and quality of the dermis, with collagen fibrils having homogenous diameters. The dermis seems to be compacted as observed on images obtained by two-photon microscopy and ultrasound imaging. At the macroscopic level, this dermis organization shows a smoothed profile similar to a younger skin, with improved mechanical properties such as firmess. CONCLUSION: The obtained results demonstrate that the defined cosmetic composition induces the synthesis of sGAGs and proteoglycans, which contributes to the overall dermal reorganization. This activity in the dermis in turn impacts the surface and mechanical properties of the skin.

Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside as a global skin color modulator and photo-protectant.

BACKGROUND: 3,4,5-Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside (THBG), a molecule produced by an original biocatalysis-based technology, was assessed in this study with respect to its skin photoprotective capacity and its skin color control property on Asian-type skin at a clinical level and on skin explant culture models. METHODS: The double-blinded clinical study was done in comparison to a vehicle by the determination of objective color parameters thanks to recognized quantitative and qualitative analysis tools, including Chroma-Meter, VISIA-CR™, and SIAscope™. Determination of L* (brightness), a* and b* (green-red and blue-yellow chromaticity coordinates), individual typology angle, and C* (chroma) and h* (hue angle) parameters using a Chroma-Meter demonstrated that THBG is able to modify skin color while quantification of ultraviolet (UV) spots by VISIA-CR™ confirmed its photoprotective effect. The mechanism of action of THBG molecule was determined using explant skin culture model coupled to histological analysis (epidermis melanin content staining). RESULTS: We have demonstrated that THBG was able to modulate significantly several critical parameters involved in skin color control such as L* (brightness), a* (redness), individual typology angle (pigmentation), and hue angle (yellowness in this study), whereas no modification occurs on b* and C* parameters. We have demonstrated using histological staining that THBG decrease epidermis melanin content under unirradiated and irradiated condition. We also confirmed that THBG molecule is not a sunscreen agent. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated that THBG controls skin tone via the inhibition of melanin synthesis as well as the modulation of skin brightness, yellowness, and redness.

Combination of new multifunctional molecules for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea disorder.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea, a common chronic skin disorder, is currently managed by patient education, pharmacological drugs, medical devices (laser and light therapies), and use of proper skin cares. Unfortunately, none of these actual treatments used alone or in combination is curative, and so we proposed a dermocosmetic active ingredient to mitigate some aspects of the rosacea and particularly for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. METHODS: Dermocosmetic active ingredient is composed of three glucosylated derivatives of natural plants hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycinnamic acids (rosmarinic acid, gallic acid, and caffeic acid). Anti-inflammatory, anti-angiogenesis, and anti-degranulation studies were done on cellular models (keratinocytes, mast cells, and endothelial cells). Efficiency of the active ingredient in comparison to placebo was assessed clinically on human volunteers having erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. The active and placebo were applied topically twice a day for 28 days. Biometrical analyses were done using a siascope tool. RESULTS: We found that the active ingredient decreases inflammation (inhibition of interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor release), decreases degranulation of mast cells (inhibition of histamine release), and controls angiogenesis mechanism (inhibition of the production of vascular endothelial growth factor and neovessel formation) on cellular models. Study on human volunteers confirmed macroscopically the efficiency of this active ingredient, as we observed no neovessel formation and less visible vessels. CONCLUSION: Although rosacea is a skin condition disorder that is difficult to heal, the studies have shown that this active ingredient could be a dermocosmetic support, especially for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea armamentarium. The active ingredient was topically applied on the face for 28 days and improved erythematotelangiectatic rosacea symptoms either by decreasing them (vessels are less visible) or by limiting their development (any neovessels). The active ingredient decreases inflammation (inhibition of interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor release), decreases degranulation of mast cells (inhibition of histamine release), and limits the angiogenesis process (inhibition of vascular endothelial growth factor production and neovessel formation).

Drugs from hidden bugs: their discovery via untapped resources.

The drug discovery process is a starving machine requiring constant feeding with new chemical compounds. Synthetic or natural scaffolds: what are the best sources? While synthetic molecules are rapidly generated by combinatorial chemistry, they show lower chemical diversity than their natural counterparts. A significant fraction of known natural products is issued from microbial secondary metabolism; however, more than 95% of bacterial organisms remain unexploited as a source of active chemical compounds due to their cultivation difficulties. Recent technological advances in metagenomics have provided reliable access to chemicals of these hidden bugs, thus opening up new opportunities for feeding the machine.