Butyrospermum parkii butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded sunscreen system.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is related to skin and lip tumors. Therefore, the development of photoprotective lipstick formulations is of utmost importance. AIMS: Considering the biological properties of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), we assessed its potential as an adjuvant in a molded lipstick sunscreen system by in vivo tests and photostability. PATIENTS/METHODS: Shea butter was used in a photoprotective lipstick formulation at two different concentrations (10.0% and 15.0% w/w) associated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) and titanium dioxide. Skin compatibility was assessed in vivo. The in vivo SPF value was determined according to the current recognized method. Additionally, the photostability of EHM was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. RESULTS: By the cutaneous compatibility, the product presented no interference with skin barrier and no adverse reactions, thus proving its safety. The in vivo SPF assay showed that the highest concentration of Shea butter increased the in vivo SPF value of the sample by 35%, demonstrating it to be a booster in photoprotective lipstick formulations. Also, Shea butter was proved to enhance the photostability of EHM, a commonly used UVB filter available in several countries. CONCLUSION: Shea butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded lipstick sunscreen.

Influence of Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter, TiO2 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy.

BACKGROUND: The development of photoprotective lipsticks containing natural bioactive compounds is a relevant current strategy to increase sun protection factor (SPF) value and lower the concentration of chemical UV filters, known for promoting sensitivity reactions. AIMS: Twelve photoprotective lipsticks were developed by Design of Experiment (DOE) and characterized to verify the influence of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), titanium dioxide (TiO2 ), and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy. METHODS: The influence of Shea butter, TiO2, and EHM was evaluated by several parameters, such as melting point, colorimetry, thermal analysis by DSC, texture analysis, and sunscreen activity estimated in vitro. RESULTS: The construction of prediction models was possible for the following responses: maximum force by the cantilever test at 25 and 45°C; maximum distance by hardness test at 25°C; slope value at 25 and 45°C by the cantilever test; and UVA/UVB ratio and in vitro SPF. TiO2 and EHM contributed to changes on the in vitro SPF value; however, unexpectedly, Shea butter had no influence on this efficacy parameter. CONCLUSION: The assay allowed us to observe the influence of the variables in the analysis and to develop a response prediction model for some of the parameters assessed.

Validation Cytotoxicity Assay for Lipophilic Substances.

It is challenging to disperse lipophilic substances in a validated cytotoxicity assay, especially for compounds with log Kow greater than or equal to 5 that may show false negative results. The purpose of this study was to explain the challenges in conducting a cytotoxicity validated test of lipophilic substances: Minthostachys setosa, Pimenta pseudocaryophyllus, and Drimysbrasiliensis essential oils. Additionally, we compared the equivalence of Neutral Red (NR) and 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -5- (3- carboxymethoxyphenyl) -2- (4-sulfophenyl) -2H -tetrazolium, inner salt (MTS) in detecting cell viability. The Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) technique was used to evaluate the dispersion of essential oils and cytotoxicity in accordance to the guidelines of the OECD / GD 129 validated cytotoxicity assay. We compared the equivalence of vital dyes by TOST equivalence test. According to the results, we demonstrated the possibility of using other ways to disperse the lipophilic substances. Based on the HLB theory, we selected polysorbate 20 as the best solubilizing agent of the essential oils studied in D10 culture medium.

Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye.

BACKGROUND: Hair coloring is broadly used by women and men either to change their natural hair color or to delay the onset of gray hair. Oxidative dyes may damage the hair, as chemical and physical processes are required to convert the fiber structure and, consequently, alterations in its mechanical and surface properties. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of silanetriol (and) Panthenol, PEG-12 dimethicone, and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose as conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye by protein loss, combability, and breaking strength. METHODS: In this research, we analyzed the untreated hair (sample I) and the effect of oxidative hair dye emulsions, with or without conditioner agents (sample II) silanetriol (and) Panthenol (sample III), PEG-12 dimethicone (sample IV), and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose (sample V) on Caucasian hair. The hair samples were submitted to protein loss quantification, breaking strength, and combing analysis. RESULTS: For protein loss, the results were: IIa  = Va  > IVb  > IIIc  > Id . For the breaking strength: Ie  = IIe  = IIIe  = IVe  = Ve . For the combing analysis for wet and dry hair, the results were, respectively: IIa  > IIIb  = IVb  > Vc  > Id and IIA  > IIIb  = Vb  > IV c = Ic . Data classified by different letters presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ . 05, n = 15. CONCLUSIONS: Based on these results, the incorporation of conditioner agents into emulsion blond color decreased the damage caused by the coloring process.

Synthesis, Molecular Modeling, and Evaluation of Novel Sulfonylhydrazones as Acetylcholinesterase Inhibitors for Alzheimer's Disease.

Alzheimer's disease (AD) is the most common type of dementia and related to the degeneration of hippocampal cholinergic neurons, which dramatically affects cognitive ability. Acetylcholinesterase (AChE) inhibitors are employed as drugs for AD therapy. Three series of sulfonylhydrazone compounds were designed, and their ability to inhibit AChE was evaluated. Fifteen compounds were synthesized and twelve of them had IC50 values of 0.64-51.09 µM. The preliminary structure-activity relationships indicated that the methylcatechol moiety and arylsulfonyl substituents generated better compounds than both the benzodioxole and alkylsulfonyl chains. Molecular dynamics studies of compound 6d showed that the interaction with the peripheral binding site of AChE was similar to donepezil, which may explain its low IC50 (0.64 µM). Furthermore, the drug-likeness of 6d suggests that the compound may have appropriate oral absorption and brain penetration. Compound 6d also presented antiradical activity and was not cytotoxic to LL24 cells, suggesting that this compound might be considered safe. Our findings indicate that arylsulfonylhydrazones may be a promising scaffold for the design of new drug candidates for the treatment of AD.

Tryptophan and kynurenine determination in human hair by liquid chromatography.

Tryptophan, an amino acid found in hair proteinaceous structure is used as a marker of hair photodegradation. Also, protein loss caused by several chemical/physical treatments can be inferred by tryptophan quantification. Kynurenine is a photo-oxidation product of tryptophan, expected to be detected when hair is exposed mainly to UVB (290-320nm) radiation range. Tryptophan from hair is usually quantified directly as a solid or after alkaline hydrolysis, spectrofluorimetrically. However, these types of measure are not sufficiently specific and present several interfering substances. Thus, this work aimed to propose a quantification method for both tryptophan and kynurenine in hair samples, after alkali hydrolysis process, by using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with fluorimetric and UV detection. The tryptophan and kynurenine quantification method was developed and validated. Black, white, bleached and dyed (blond and auburn) hair tresses were used in this study. Tryptophan and kynurenine were separated within ∼9min by HPLC. Both black and white virgin hair samples presented similar concentrations of tryptophan, while bleaching caused a reduction in the tryptophan content as well as dyeing process. Unexpectedly, UV/vis radiation did not promote significantly the conversion of tryptophan into its photo-oxidation product and consequently, kynurenine was not detected. Thus, this works presented an acceptable method for quantification of tryptophan and its photooxidation metabolite kynurenine in hair samples. Also, the results indicated that bleaching and dyeing processes promoted protein/amino acids loss but tryptophan is not extensively degraded in human hair by solar radiation.

Theoretical study of tautomers and photoisomers of avobenzone by DFT methods.

Organic ultraviolet (UV) filters such as cinnamates, benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, and avobenzone (which have well-established and recognized UV-filtering efficacies) are employed in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products to minimize the harm caused by exposure of the skin to sunlight. In this study, a detailed investigation of the photostability and tautomerism mechanisms of avobenzone was performed utilizing DFT methods. The UV spectral profile of avobenzone was also simulated, and the results showed good agreement with experimental data. Furthermore, the calculations were able to distinguish tautomers and photoisomers of the studied organic filter based on their properties, thus showing the potential to develop new organic UV filters. Graphical Abstract Theoretical studies of avobenzone and its tautomers by TD-DFT.

Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection.

In this paper the negative effects of solar radiation (ultraviolet, visible and infrared wavelengths) on hair properties like color, mechanical properties, luster, protein content, surface roughness, among others, will be discussed. Despite knowing that radiation damages hair, there are no consensus about the particular effect of each segment of solar radiation on the hair shaft. The hair photoprotection products are primarily targeted to dyed hair, specially auburn pigments, and gray shades. They are usually based on silicones, antioxidants and quaternary chemical UV filters that have more affinity for negatively charged hair surface and present higher efficacy. Unfortunately, there are no regulated parameters, like for skin photoprotection, for efficacy evaluation of hair care products, which makes impossible to compare the results published in the literature. Thus, it is important that researchers make an effort to apply experimental conditions similar to a real level of sun exposure, like dose, irradiance, time, temperature and relative humidity.

Fragrance technology for the dermatologist - a review and practical application.

Cosmetic product development has increased in recent years. The value of a product is emphasized in its safety and effectiveness. The stability study in the context of product quality evaluation during shelf life becomes primordial to guarantee the integrity of the physical, chemical, and olfactory properties. In this study, aromatic compositions had been submitted to the stability normal test, at low temperature (4.0 ± 2.0°C), at room temperature (22.0 ± 2.0°C), and in oven (45.0 ± 2.0°C). The compositions were analyzed at 15, 30, 60, and 90 days versus a fresh aromatic composition 48 h after preparation, in which the organoleptic characteristics and pH value were evaluated besides undertaking sensory evaluation. The results demonstrated that at the high temperature (45.0 ± 2.0°C), in which the oxidative processes of the fragrance components are accelerated, the cosmetic preparation "A" was chosen because it showed more acceptable physical-chemical properties and in terms of sensory evaluation of perfume character and intensity was approved for commercial use.