Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti-redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. METHODS: The anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014-2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo-irritation, and photo-sensitization were evaluated. Self-assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use. RESULTS: Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E2 , interleukin-6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo-irritation, photo-sensitization or product-related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies. CONCLUSION: The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self-perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: Démontrer l'activité in vitro du panthénol, du palmitoyléthanolamide (PEA), et du nicotinamide (NAM) et déterminer les propriétés biophysiques, la sécurité clinique, la tolérance ainsi que l'efficacité de deux formulations anti-rougeurs (AR) en développement contenant ces ingrédients pour atténuer les rougeurs faciales associées à la xérose hivernale chez des volontaires sains présentant une peau sensible. MÉTHODES: Les propriétés anti-inflammatoires et protectrices du panthénol, du PEA et du NAM ont été évaluées in vitro. Les propriétés physiques des formulations AR ont été analysées en mesurant le taux de transport de vapeur d'eau (WVTR) et par spectroscopie infrarouge. Des études cliniques ont été réalisées entre décembre et avril (2014-2015) et l'efficacité a été évaluée pendant l'hiver. Les rougeurs, l'irritation, le potentiel de sensibilisation, la photo-irritation et la photosensibilisation au niveau du visage ont été évalués. Des effets indésirables auto-évalués ont été signalés dans des journaux d'utilisation. RÉSULTATS: Le panthénol et le PEA ont réduit les niveaux de prostaglandine E2 , d'interleukine-6 et de lymphopoiétine stromale thymique in vitro, tandis que le NAM a généré une augmentation des taux de nicotinamide adénine dinucléotide (NAD) et des marqueurs de différenciation kératinocytaire : filaggrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,001), loricrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,05), involucrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,001) et du récepteur alpha activé de la prolifération peroxysomale (multiplication des taux par 1,5, P < 0,05). Les deux produits antirétroviraux présentaient un faible taux de WVTR par rapport à l'absence de traitement (P < 0,001) et présentaient une structure lipidique ordonnée. La formulation de la crème de jour protège contre le rayonnement ultraviolet B in vitro. Un total de 382 participants ont été inclus dans les études cliniques qui ont montré que les formulations AR amélioraient significativement les rougeurs faciales associées à la xérose hivernale (changement moyen du jour 29 par rapport à la référence : crème de jour AR 0,77 (P < 0,001) ; sérum AR 0,67 (P < 0,001)). Aucune irritation, sensibilisation, photo-irritation, photosensibilisation ni effet indésirable lié au produit n'a été observé ou signalé dans les études cliniques. CONCLUSION: Les nouveaux produits ont considérablement amélioré la rougeur de la peau associée à la xérose hivernale chez les participants présentant une peau sensible auto-perçue. Les deux produits ont été bien tolérés avec un profil de sécurité approprié pour un usage topique chez les sujets présentant une peau sensible.

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long-chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications.

BACKGROUND: Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behaviour of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong-chain fatty acids could act as a semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin. This will lower the rate of water evaporation through the epidermis and consequently help prevent or improve skin xerosis. OBJECTIVE: To identify a novel source of ultralong-chain lipids and develop monoacylglycerols with mixed fatty acyl chain lengths that have occlusive properties superior to petrolatum. METHODS: Initially, Performacol 425, a mixture of very long-chain fatty alcohols, was fractionated using short path distillation to yield a fraction enriched with C22:0-C26:0 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol fraction was then oxidized using Jones reagent, and the resulting fatty acids were esterified with glycerol to yield the corresponding monoglycerides using Novozym 435. These were then evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and water vapour transmission rate measurements. RESULTS: The monoacylglycerols enriched with C22:0-C26:0 displayed a melting point of 80°C and orthorhombic packing; packing behaviour mainly present in healthy SC. In addition, a phospholipid-structured emulsion containing 3% of the monoglycerides displayed occlusive properties superior to the vehicle containing 3% petrolatum jelly. CONCLUSIONS: Performacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid-structured emulsions.

The rational design of biomimetic skin barrier lipid formulations using biophysical methods.

OBJECTIVE: The focus of this communication was to study phospholipid-structured emulsions whose phase behaviour is modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. Ideally, these systems would mimic key physical and structural attributes observed in human stratum corneum (SC) so that they better alleviate xerotic skin conditions. METHODS: Phosphatidylcholine-structured emulsions were prepared, and their phase behaviour modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. The effect of molecular volume, acyl chain length and head-group interactions was studied using a combination of physical methods. Water vapour transmission rate (WVTR) was used as a primary test to assess occlusive character. Changes in the vibrational modes observed in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and bilayer spacing measured by X-ray diffraction (XRD) were then applied to elucidate the lateral and lamellar microstructural characteristics in the systems. RESULTS: Water vapour transmission rate demonstrated that as the phosphatidylcholine acyl chain length increased from C14, to C18, to C22, there was a corresponding increase in occlusive character. The addition of monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles such as behenic acid, behenyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol to a base formulation incorporating dipalmitoyl and distearoylphosphatidylcholine (C18) was seen to further increase barrier characteristics of the emulsions. FTIR methods used to probe lipid-chain conformational ordering demonstrated that as phosphatidylcholine acyl chain lengths increased, there was a corresponding improvement in acyl chain ordering, with an increase in thermal transition temperatures. The addition of a monoalkyl fatty amphiphile resulted in conformational order and thermal transition temperature improvements trending towards those observed in stratum corneum. FTIR also demonstrated that systems containing behenic acid or behenyl alcohol exhibited features associated with orthorhombic character. X-ray diffraction data showed that addition of monoalkyl fatty amphiphile also resulted in thicker lamellar structures than when those agents are not present. CONCLUSION: The generalized approach described herein is shown to mechanistically describe the occlusive character of phospholipid-structured formulations in the presence of long-chain fatty acids or alcohols and that they exhibit characteristics mimicking those found in human SC lipids.

Structure-function relationship of phenolic antioxidants in topical skin health products.

OBJECTIVES: The present work analysed the antioxidative activity of phenol-based antioxidants using an electron spin resonance method to predict the activity and stability of these antioxidants in cosmetic products. METHODS: The antioxidative power (AP) method was chosen to measure both the capacity and kinetics of an antioxidative reaction by detecting the DPPH (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl) radical. The antioxidative capacity (wc ) relates to the amount of free radicals that can be reduced, whereas the antioxidative reactivity (tr ) relates to the reaction speed and offers a fingerprinting of the redox state of the antioxidant molecules. Fifteen phenolic molecules have been analysed. They differed in the position of the hydroxyl groups and substituents on the aromatic ring. The AP of two distinct formulations containing hydroxytyrosol is presented as well as three phenol-based antioxidants within the same formulation vehicle. RESULTS: The rate at which phenol (ArOH) reacts with DPPH radicals, defined by the term reactivity (tr ) in this paper, was dependent upon the bond dissociation enthalpy (BDE) of the OH bond. Molecules having weak OH bonds and consequently low BDE values showed high antioxidant reactivity. On the other hand, the capacity factor (wc ), which is the concentration of phenol required to reduce a fixed concentration of DPPH radical, depends on the number and position of hydroxyl groups. The results showed that ortho and para positions of the two hydroxyl groups are important for higher capacity. If one of the two hydroxyl groups is blocked by methylation, both the antioxidative capacity and reactivity are reduced, mainly for ortho disubstituted compounds. The presence of a vinylic side chain improved reactivity and capacity tremendously. AP values may be useful in formulation design when identifying antioxidants that are likely to be physically and chemically stable. The importance of optimization of the formulation vehicle itself for a given antioxidant is also illustrated. CONCLUSION: Based on the presented findings, it is possible to predict the antioxidative performance of a phenol-based molecule and its stability and oxidation resistance within a cosmetic formulation. This is essential for antioxidant containing dermal formulations designed to combat skin ageing.