Skin characterization and immediate effects of different dermocosmetic treatments in French and Brazilian skin.

BACKGROUND: All over the world, people face the same skin problems. However, their skin characteristics are different. Thus, it is a challenge to prescribe treatments that will be effective on different skin types. Therefore, it is very important to consider the skin biology when indicating a dermocosmetic treatment. OBJECTIVES: To assess skin biophysical parameters in French and Brazilian subjects and to verify the efficacy of four dermocosmetic treatments in these populations. METHODS: Five test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the eighteen Brazilian and eighteen French participants using a randomized design. Biophysical measurements in terms of skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin brightness, and skin viscoelasticity were performed before and after 60 minutes of treatment. RESULTS: Skin biophysical differences between populations were found. French skin has been shown to be more hydrated regarding epidermal mechanic properties and stratum corneum water content and more radiant when compared with Brazilian skin. However, it showed more signs of cutaneous aging and fatigue effects on skin. The Brazilian skin showed better skin barrier function. In addition, the treatments were effective in both populations. CONCLUSIONS: Despite the differences found in French and Brazilian skin, the proposed dermocosmetic treatments showed effective in both populations.

Spirulina, Palmaria Palmata, Cichorium Intybus, and Medicago Sativa extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro toxicity and in vivo acceptability studies.

Background/Aims: The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the in vitro toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their in vivo acceptability studies. Methods: Spirulina, Palmaria palmata, Cichorium intybus and Medicago sativa extracts were analysed alone or in combination and added in cosmetic formulations. The in vitro toxicity evaluation, Hen's Egg Chorioallantoic Membrane Test (HET-CAM) and 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test were performed to evaluate in vitro potential ocular irritation and photo safety, respectively. Twenty subjects were enrolled in the acceptability studies, who were evaluated for the absence of harmful effects of the formulation by visual assessment and by transepidermal water loss, a biophysical technique, for 30 days. Results: HET-CAM assay showed that the studied extracts added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential. In addition, the combination of Palmaria palmata, alfalfa and chicory extracts did not show phototoxic potential in vitro. Acceptability studies showed that the formulation containing the four extracts combined did not provoke any transepidermal water loss (TEWL) alteration, sensory irritation or erythema in the forearms for the period of analysis. Conclusion: The studied active ingredients, alone or in combination, present no cytotoxicity potential and when added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential in vitro. These results predicting no harmful effects were confirmed in the acceptability tests, which showed no alteration on skin barrier function and no report of irritation perception of sign of erythema, suggesting the potential of these extracts for the development of safe cosmetic products.

Development and photoprotective effect of a sunscreen containing the antioxidants Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol on sun-induced skin damage.

The literature claims that incorporation of antioxidants into sunscreens provides additional skin photoprotection by scavenging free radicals formed due to sun radiation, but there are limited in vivo studies that support this hypothesis. This study aims to examine whether addition of antioxidants to a broad-spectrum sunscreen increases its photoprotective effect in real-use conditions. Sunscreen formulations composed of stable UV filters (Tinosorb® S, Tinosorb® M, Uvinul® APlus, and Uvinul® T150) alone or in combination with antioxidants (Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles) were developed and their appearance, odor, rheological behavior, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), and UVA protection were analyzed. Next, it was conducted a 3-month, single-blind clinical study with 44 healthy subjects (30-50years). Before and 28, 54, and 84days after twice-daily self application of the sunscreens on the face, the stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, dermis echogenicity, and skin elasticity and pigmentation were measured. At the end of the study period, the volunteers answered a questionnaire containing terms related to sensory characteristics of the formulations. All formulations were stable and exhibited non-Newtonian and pseudoplastic behavior, in vivo SPF 30, and good UVA protection. Antioxidant supplementation to the sunscreen formulation significantly improved the skin pigmentation, the collagen degradation on the dermis and thereby the skin net elasticity after 84days of treatment compared to the sunscreen alone. Concerning safety, all formulations were considered non-irritant according to the sensorial analyses, whose results agreed with the clinical study findings.

Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: cosmetic properties and safety evaluation.

CONTEXT: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate oil content and sun protection factor (SPF) variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties, including antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of UM obtained from green Coffea arabica seed oil. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The safety and potential cosmetic properties of UM extracted from green coffee oil (GCO) were evaluated by the brine shrimp viability and the MTT cytotoxicity assays. The SPF and antioxidant activity were evaluated using in vitro methods. RESULTS: Relevant cytotoxicity was found against keratinocytes for concentrations ≥25 µg/mL and in the brine shrimp assay (LC50 24 µg/mL). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities (IC50 1448 µg/mL) were low in UM but SPF was 10 times higher than in GCO. CONCLUSION: UM is a novel potential UV-B absorbent but its use as a cosmetic ingredient should be better considered due to the considerable cytotoxicity shown in the experimental conditions described.

Synergistic effects of green tea and ginkgo biloba extracts on the improvement of skin barrier function and elasticity.

This study aimed to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing green tea (GT) and/or Ginkgo biloba (GB) extracts by preclinical and clinical studies. For the preclinical study, histological analysis was performed after 5 day-period of formulations application on the dorsum of hairless mice. For the clinical study, the formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 48 volunteers, and assessed before and after 3 hours and after a 15 and 30 day-period of application. Histological analysis showed that the formulation with GT (FGT) and the association of GT and GB (FBlend) significantly enhanced viable epidermis thickness and the number of cell layers, suggesting a moisturizing effect in skin deeper layers and increased cell renewal. The clinical efficacy studies showed that the extracts had a moisturizing effect and improved skin microrelief. In addition they synergistically acted on the skin elasticity and skin barrier function. In conclusion, the formulation containing a combination of green tea and Ginkgo biloba extracts effectively improved skin conditions and the effect of formulation FBlend on the improvement of skin elasticity was more pronounced. Finally, the results of the present study revealed other important clinical benefits of Ginkgo biloba and green tea extracts on the skin besides their already known antioxidant action.

The use of green tea extract in cosmetic formulations: not only an antioxidant active ingredient.

Green tea (GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts (GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue), and microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm (control area). Experimental formulations (GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indicating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30 days of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After 15-30 days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness. The results suggest that GT-containing cosmetic formulations have pronounced moisturizing effects and improve skin microrelief.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. METHODS: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers' forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4-week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter, Corneometer and Cutometer, respectively. RESULTS: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4-week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. CONCLUSION: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect-improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.

Estudo da variação do pH da pele humana exposta a formulação cosmética acrescida ou não das vitaminas A, E ou de ceramida, por metodologia não invasiva / Study of pH variation on the skin using cosmetic formulation s with and without vitamins A, E or ceramide: by a non-invasive method

Os cosméticos hidratantes melhoram a pele, aproximando-a de suas condições ideais, pois aumentam a quantidade de água no estrato córneo. As vitaminas A e E, bem como as ceramidas, são substâncias ativas que vêm sendo muito empregadas em hidratantes, os quais constituem uma das mais importantes classes de produtos cosméticos e de higiene corporal.O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito no pH cutâneo da pele humana de uma emulsão O/A (constituída de base auto-emulsionante não iônica) acrescida, ou não, de vitamina A palmitato ou vitamina E acetato ou ceramida III, por metodologia não invasiva. Método - O estudo foi realizado em 40 mulheres com idade entre 30 e 45 anos, empregando-se o equipamento Skin pHmeter PH 900 PC. As medidas foram efetuadas no antebraço das voluntárias nos tempos de sete e 30 dias após auto-aplicação diária (duas vezes ao dia), dos produtos envolvidos no estudo. A presença das vitaminas A ou E, ou da ceramida não alterou de maneira significativa o pH da pele, o que mostra que as formulações estudadas são adequadas para o uso cosmético