Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens.

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Evaluation of the enzymatic activity and stability of commercial bromelain incorporated in topical formulations.

BACKGROUND: Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes found in various tissues of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus) and other species of Bromeliaceae. Owing to its proteolytic activity, bromelain has been used in the food, medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for its cell renewal, anti-ageing, whitening and anti-cellulite properties. OBJECTIVE: This study evaluated the stability of bromelain (commercial powder) incorporated in topical formulations. METHODS: Bromelain was incorporated at three concentrations, 0.5%, 1.0% and 2.0%, in oil-in-water emulsion and gel, and stored for six months at varying stress conditions. Stability was accessed by measuring the changes in the protein content, enzymatic activity, viscosity, rheology, pH and colour of the selected formulations. RESULTS: The colour of all the samples changed after 180 days of incubation, indicating the concentration-dependence and temperature-sensitive nature of these formulations. No relationship was observed between the changes in the pH, temperature and luminosity exposure in all the samples. Gels proved to be the least preferred base for incorporation of bromelain for use as a topical formulation, owing to its inability to maintain the integrity of bromelain, thereby affecting the formulation characteristics. CONCLUSION: The emulsion-based formulations at all the concentrations of bromelain were more stable than the gel-based formulation over 180 days of evaluation, at a temperature of 5°C, protected from light.

Development of lamellar gel phase emulsion containing marigold oil (Calendula officinalis) as a potential modern wound dressing.

Appropriate therapeutics for wound treatments can be achieved by studying the pathophysiology of tissue repair. Here we develop formulations of lamellar gel phase (LGP) emulsions containing marigold (Calendula officinalis) oil, evaluating their stability and activity on experimental wound healing in rats. LGP emulsions were developed and evaluated based on a phase ternary diagram to select the best LGP emulsion, having a good amount of anisotropic structure and stability. The selected LGP formulation was analyzed according to the intrinsic and accelerated physical stability at different temperatures. In addition, in vitro and in vivo studies were carried out on wound healing rats as a model. The LGP emulsion (15.0% marigold oil; 10.0% of blend surfactants and 75.0% of purified water [w/w/w]) demonstrated good stability and high viscosity, suggesting longer contact of the formulation with the wound. No cytotoxic activity (50-1000 µg/mL) was observed in marigold oil. In the wound healing rat model, the LGP (15 mg/mL) showed an increase in the leukocyte recruitment to the wound at least on days 2 and 7, but reduced leukocyte recruitment after 14 and 21 days, as compared to the control. Additionally, collagen production was reduced in the LGP emulsion on days 2 and 7 and further accelerated the process of re-epithelialization of the wound itself. The methodology utilized in the present study has produced a potentially useful formulation for a stable LGP emulsion-containing marigold, which was able to improve the wound healing process.

Protocolo para ensaios físico-químicos de estabilidade de fitocosméticos / Guide to physical and chemical stability of phytocosmetics

A crescente demanda por produtos cosméticos estáveis, seguros e eficazes tem exigido da comunidade científica estudos cada vez mais complexos e utilização de técnicas mais eficientes para determinação da estabilidade dos produtos. O uso de ativos da biodiversidade brasileira levou ao desenvolvimento de inúmeros produtos, nas mais diferentes formas cosméticas, o que dificulta, ainda mais, a padronização de protocolos experimentais para atestara estabilidade das preparações cosméticas. Embora não exista no Brasil um protocolo que padronize os ensaiosa serem realizados para se determinar a estabilidade dos produtos, vários estudos foram realizados nos meios acadêmicos para determinação da estabilidadede matérias-primas específicas. As características reológicas são propriedades importantes a serem consideradas na fabricação, estocagem e aplicação de produtos de uso tópico. Além de ensaios comumente empregados, a determinação do comportamento reológico da formulação auxilia na avaliação da natureza físico-química do veículo, de tal forma que torna possível detectar sinais precoces de instabilidade física, possibilitando o controle de qualidade dos constituintes, das formulações teste e dos produtos finais. A análise térmica também é usada para auxiliar o estudo da estabilidade de produtos cosméticos e, de modo geral, a calorimetria exploratória diferencial para orientar o desenvolvimento de novos produtos. Outras ferramentas, como a fluorimetria e a granulometria a laser podem auxiliar o estudo e o desenvolvimento de sistemas, emulsionados ou não. O objetivo deste estudo é o desenvolvimento de protocolo para o estudo da estabilidade físico-química de fitocosméticos - sistemas contendo ativos da biodiversidade brasileira.