Biosignatures of defective sebaceous gland activity in sebum-rich and sebum-poor skin areas in adult atopic dermatitis.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a composite disease presenting disruption of the skin permeability barrier (SPB) in the stratum corneum (SC). Recent evidence supports derangement of the sebaceous gland (SG) activity in the AD pathomechanisms. The objective of this study was to delineate profiles of both sebaceous and epidermal lipids and of aminoacids from SG-rich (SGR) and SG-poor (SGP) areas in AD. Both sebum and SC were sampled from SGR areas, while SC was sampled also from SGP areas in 54 adult patients with AD, consisting of 34 and 20 subjects, respectively with and without clinical involvement of face, and in 44 age and sex-matched controls. Skin biophysics were assessed in all sampling sites. Disruption of the SBP was found to be associated with dysregulated lipidome. Abundance of sapienate and lignocerate, representing, respectively, sebum and the SC type lipids, were decreased in sebum and SC from both SGR and SGP areas. Analogously, squalene was significantly diminished in AD, regardless the site. Extent of lipid derangement in SGR areas was correlated with the AD severity. The abundance of aminoacids in the SC from SGR areas was altered more than that determined in SGP areas. Several gender-related differences were found in both controls and AD subgroups. In conclusion, the SG activity was differently compromised in adult females and males with AD, in both SGR and SGP areas. In AD, alterations in the aminoacidome profiles were apparent in the SGR areas. Lipid signatures in association with aminoacidome and skin physical properties may serve the definition of phenotype clusters that associate with AD severity and gender.

Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

Improvement of Quality of Life in Dialysis and Diabetic Patients by Skin Dryness and Pruritus Management with an Ecobiological Dermo-Cosmetic Product.

Purpose: Xerosis and pruritus are common chronic dermatological disorders among dialysis and diabetic patients that are frequently underdiagnosed or neglected, which can impact the quality of life of these patients. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a specific dermo-cosmetic product in the treatment of dry skin and pruritus associated with dialysis and diabetes. Patients and Methods: Twenty-nine dialysis patients (mean age 62 years) and 40 diabetic patients (mean age 57 years, 88% type 2) were included in two different single-center open-label uncontrolled clinical trials. All patients presented skin dryness according to the Scaling Roughness Redness and Cracks (SRRC) scale, and pruritus and/or insomnia. They applied the dermo-cosmetic product Medi-Secure Atoderm Xereane (NAOS, Laboratoire Bioderma) once or twice a day. The clinical efficacy (SRRC, pruritus, and insomnia), the skin-related quality of life (Dermatological Life Quality Index, DLQI), and the subjective efficacy were assessed at the inclusion visit and after 28 days of product application, as well as the safety. Results: After 28 days of application, the product significantly reduced the SRRC global score of 83% (0.9±0.8 vs 5.1±1.2) and 66% (1.4±1.2 vs 4.2±0.5), pruritus intensity of 76% (1.1±1.3 vs 4.6±2.1) and 78% (0.9±1.7 vs 4.2±2.6), and insomnia intensity of 61% (0.9±1.3 vs 2.4±2.3) and 82% (0.9±1.7 vs 4.8±2.7) in dialysis and diabetic patients, respectively. Furthermore, the product's application led to an improvement of the skin-related quality of life of 50% (5.4 vs 2.7; p<0.0001) in dialysis patients and 71% (6.6 vs 1.9; p<0.0001) in diabetic patients at D28. In addition, the product was greatly appreciated by all patients for its soothing, comforting, repairing, nourishing, and hydrating effects and was very well tolerated by the entire panels. Conclusion: This specific dermo-cosmetic product significantly reduces skin dryness, pruritus, and insomnia in dialysis and diabetic patients, thereby greatly improves their skin-related quality of life. By managing and avoiding bothersome symptoms associated with their disease or treatment, this ecobiological dermo-cosmetic can prevent serious complications that constitute a substantial burden on their daily life.

Tattoo aftercare management with a dermo-cosmetic product: Improvement in discomfort sensation and skin repair quality.

BACKGROUND: A moisturizer application during the healing process after a tattoo session is a common practice to help wound healing and to reduce discomfort sensations. This practice was recently recommended by the standard European guidelines on tattoos, with the use of an adapted ointment to keep the site moist. AIMS: To assess the efficacy and the tolerability of a specific dermo-cosmetic product (Cicabio Pommade, Laboratoire Bioderma, NAOS, France) in tattoo aftercare. PATIENTS/METHODS: Thirty subjects included in this survey applied the product immediately after the tattoo session for 14 days. The objective symptoms (redness, edema, skin repair quality) were assessed by the tattooist and the subjects. The subjective symptoms, discomfort sensations (pain, itching, burning sensations, tingling), soothing, moisturizing, and undesirable effects were assessed by the tattooed individuals. RESULTS: After 14 days of application, redness was absent for 100% and 96% of subjects according to the tattoo artist and the subjects, respectively, and edema had completely disappeared for both assessors. Most of the subjects rated the skin quality repair and the aesthetic outcomes as very good to excellent. Soothing and moisturizing effects were observed as early as the first day. The effects were maintained over 14 days. Discomfort sensations were judged absent to slight in 96%-100% of cases after 7 days. They were assessed as absent to slight in all cases for pain, itching, and tingling, and in 96% for burning sensations after 14 days. The product was very well tolerated by 87% of the subjects. CONCLUSIONS: Our survey demonstrates that this dermo-cosmetic product is suitable for tattooed skin aftercare as it reduced skin discomfort as soon as the first day and led to a good skin quality repair while being well tolerated.

Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) Questionnaire and Current Perception Threshold: Use as Diagnostic Tools for Sensitive Skin Syndrome.

The assessment of sensitive skin syndrome, characterized by subjective unpleasant sensations, remains a challenge, since there is no international consensus on the best diagnostic tools. This study evaluated the combination of the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire and the current perception threshold as diagnostic tools for sensitive skin syndrome, and the relationship between BoSS and the subjects' smoking status, phototype and skin type. A total of 100 women completed the BoSS questionnaire, and current perception threshold was measured on the face. The BoSS score was significantly higher in the self-reported sensitive skin group compared with the non-sensitive skin group (25.61 vs 14.05; p < 0.001), and in non-smokers vs smokers (23.00 vs 18.37; p < 0.05). In addition, the current perception threshold values were similar between the sensitive and non-sensitive groups. These results suggest that BoSS is a better diagnostic tool for sensitive skin syndrome than the current perception threshold, and that smokers less frequently have sensitive skin than do non-smokers.

Inhibition of thymic stromal lymphopoietin production to improve pruritus and quality of life in infants and children with atopic dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory pruritic chronic dermatosis involving the alarmin thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which is directly implicated in AD pruritus. AIMS: To evaluate the efficacy of Tambourissa trichophylla leaf extract (TTLE) titrated in polyphenols and 18ß-glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) in vitro and in vivo for AD pruritus. PATIENTS/METHODS: Initially, in vitro assessment of TSLP production in keratinocytes was undertaken. In normal human keratinocytes in vitro, TSLP was induced by polyinosinic:polycytidylic acid (Poly:IC), tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, and interleukin (IL)-4 and then quantified by ELISA in supernatants. Some cells were pretreated with TTLE and/or GA. Thereafter, an in vivo clinical study was performed including 48 infants and children with mild to severe AD flare-ups, some of which were treated with topical corticosteroids. A topical spray containing TTLE and GA was applied. After 21 days of topical spray application, pruritus, sleeplessness, the SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) index, the Infant's Dermatitis Quality of Life index (IDQOL), and the Dermatitis Family Impact Questionnaire (DFIQ) were assessed. RESULTS: Thymic stromal lymphopoietin secretion was inhibited significantly in an AD environment by TTLE and GA by up to 57.2% and 73.3%, respectively. The use of the topical spray induced a significant reduction in pruritus and sleeplessness scores, as well as the SCORAD, IDQOL, and DFIQ indexes in the total group. Similar results were observed in patient subgroups with or without topical corticosteroid treatment. CONCLUSIONS: A topical spray containing TTLE and GA, which inhibit TSLP secretion, efficiently decreases AD pruritus and improves the quality of life of AD patients.

Assessment of a new biological complex efficacy on dysseborrhea, inflammation, and Propionibacterium acnes proliferation.

INTRODUCTION: Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit triggered by Propionibacterium acnes. A bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol (BGM) complex has been developed to provide patients with acne with a specific dermocosmetic to be used adjunctively with conventional treatments. OBJECTIVE: The aim of these studies was to assess the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its individual compounds as well as its impact on sebum composition. METHODS: The antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its compounds was assessed through in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The clinical benefit of BGM complex formulated in a cream was assessed in subjects prone to acne through sebum composition analysis and photometric assessments. RESULTS: Results from the studies showed that the BGM complex has significant antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative properties. At similar concentrations, bakuchiol has up to twice the antioxidative potential than vitamin E. In subjects, BGM complex regulated the sebum composition in acne patients by increasing the level of sapienic and linolenic acid and reducing the level of oleic acid. The reduced number of porphyrins on the skin surface showed that it is also effective against P. acnes. CONCLUSION: BGM complex provides a complete adjunctive care in patients with acne by targeting etiopathogenic factors of acne: dysseborrhea, inflammation, and P. acnes proliferation.

Development and in vitro assay of oxidative stress modifying formulations for wound healing promotion.

Often presented as metabolism byproducts, reactive oxygen species are linked to detrimental effects such as chronic wound, mutagenesis, cancer and skin ageing. However, recent in vitro and in vivo observations suggest that ROS, and mainly hydrogen peroxide, interfere with cell signaling acting like second messenger and inducing adaptive responses. This is particularly observed in skin wound healing where cells are exposed to H2O2 following injury. In this study, we developed and characterized an innovative formulation producing H2O2 at low concentrations, in order to mimic physiological inflammation phase. Then, this pro-oxidative formulation (CAM-GOx) was assayed in vitro on keratinocytes cell culture, compared to the blank formulation (CAM) and the anti-oxidative formulation (CAM-CAT) to assess whether oxidative stress was implied or not in cellular responses.