Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties. METHODS: The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. RESULTS: The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period. CONCLUSION: This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities.

OBJECTIF: Prosopis juliflora, communément appelée algaroba ou mesquite, a été introduite et s'est depuis proliférée dans la région semi­aride du biome de la Caatinga. Diverses études ont documenté ses propriétés, y compris des activités antimicrobiennes, antioxydantes et antitumorales, attribuées à la présence de divers métabolites secondaires tels que les alcaloïdes, les terpénoïdes, les tanins et les flavonoïdes. L'objectif de cette étude était d'évaluer les activités antioxydantes et antityrosinases de l'extrait de fruit de P. juliflora en tant qu'ingrédient actif multifonctionnel, et de développer des formulations cosmétiques contenant cet extrait végétal pour des applications potentielles dans des produits de soins de la peau ciblant les propriétés anti­âge et d'homogénéisation de la couleur de la peau. MÉTHODES: Le processus d'extraction a suivi des protocoles établis. La caractérisation chimique de l'extrait a impliqué la quantification des flavonoïdes totaux et des composés phénoliques, ainsi qu'une analyse par chromatographie liquide­spectrométrie de masse. L'activité antioxydante in vitro a été évaluée en utilisant différentes méthodes. L'activité antityrosinase a été déterminée en utilisant des essais enzymatiques. Les formulations cosmétiques contenant du Disodium EDTA, du Phenoxyethanol (et) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, de l'Eau Distillée, du Copolymère de Sodium Acrylates Lecithin, du Polyacrylamide (et) C13­14 Isoparaffin (et) Laureth­7, et 3.0 % de l'extrait végétal investigué ont été soumises à des tests de stabilité préliminaires et accélérés. RÉSULTATS: L'extrait a montré une concentration totale de flavonoïdes (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) et des concentrations de composés phénoliques à 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Des métabolites tels que les flavonoïdes et les saponines ont été annotés, ainsi que certains de leurs dérivés glycosidiques respectifs. L'extrait a montré un potentiel antioxydant et la capacité d'inhiber la cascade d'oxydation tant dans les phases d'initiation que de propagation. De plus, l'extrait a présenté une inhibition notable de l'activité antityrosinase, avec un résultat de 62.48 ± 2.09 à une concentration de 30.00 mg/mL. Les formulations ont été stables lors des tests de stabilité accélérés sur une période de 60 jours. CONCLUSION: Cette recherche démontre scientifiquement le potentiel d'une plante du biome de la Caatinga avec des propriétés antioxydantes et antityrosinases dans le développement de produits cosmétiques visant les effets anti­âge et l'harmonisation de la couleur de la peau, tout en ajoutant de la valeur à la chaîne de production de P. juliflora. Cette valorisation englobe divers aspects incluant des responsabilités environnementales, sociales et liées à la biodiversité.

Unlocking Hidden Treasures: LC-MS/MS Molecular Networks for Exploring Novel Passiflora Species with Pharmaceutical Potential.

IIn this study, we report the metabolic profiling of several previously uncharacterized Passiflora species native to Brazil, employing molecular networks to delve deeper into chemical constituents. Using the GNPS platform, in silico tools, and substructure annotation techniques, we expanded the chemical annotations. Principal Coordinate Analysis (PCoA) revealed significant metabolic similarities between several species, including P. incarnata, suggesting shared pharmacological potential. Our identification of metabolic compounds facilitated comparisons between understudied species with medicinal properties. Notably, we documented 25 previously uncharacterized species, paving the way for the development of novel products aimed at improving human well-being. This research focused on several native Passiflora species from Brazil, highlighting their unexplored therapeutic potential.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIF: Le sisal est une fibre rigide courante produite dans le monde entier, correspondant à environ 70 % de la production commerciale de toutes les fibres de ce type. Les fibres sont extraites des feuilles d'Agave sisalana dont environ 4 % du poids est obtenu, les 96 % restants étant considérés comme des résidus du procédé de l'industrie du sisal. L'objectif de ce projet était d'obtenir un extrait du résidu d'A. sisalana enrichi en polyphénols par extraction assistée par ultrasons (EAU), de le caractériser chimiquement, d'évaluer l'activité antioxydante in vitro et de développer des formulations photoprotectrices sûres et stables pour une application future dans des préparations cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'extraction ultrasonique de la matière végétale solide a été effectuée avec une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (v/v). L'extrait a été chimiquement caractérisé avec un équipement de chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance associé à un réseau moléculaire (RM) classique, puis évalué pour l'activité antioxydante in vitro par différentes méthodologies. Dix formulations ont été préparées en variant les concentrations des composants et le temps de cisaillement. L'extrait de sisal à 1,0 % a été incorporé dans les formulations les plus stables et la stabilité préliminaire et accélérée a été évaluée. La sécurité d'emploi des émulsions a été étudiée en évaluant l'irritabilité et la sensibilisation cutanées accumulées primaires et l'étude clinique dermatologique de la phototoxicité et de la photosensibilisation. Le facteur de protection solaire in vivo, le facteur de protection UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et la protection contre la lumière visible et bleue ont été déterminées pour les formulations photoprotectrices contenant ou non l'extrait qui étaient stables après 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: L'extraction par ultrasons utilisant une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (EH 50) comme véhicule d'extraction a menée au meilleur rendement. L'extrait a présenté une concentration de composés phénoliques (77,93 mg d'EAG/g) et une activité antioxydante in vitro. Les émulsions sans et avec 1,0 % d'extrait de sisal sont restées stables et sans danger. L'ajout de l'extrait à la formulation photoprotectrice a statistiquement augmenté le SPF par rapport à la formulation sans extrait et a offert une protection contre les rayonnements UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et l'absorption de la lumière visible et bleue. CONCLUSION: D'après ces résultats, les résidus solides d'A. sisalana peuvent être indiqués comme composant des formulations cosmétiques photoprotectrices et antioxydantes.

Active manipulation of radiated fields by a magnetoplasmonic half-wave dipole nanoantenna.

We demonstrate a concept for the active manipulation of radiated fields by a magnetoplasmonic half-wave dipole nanoantenna. Our idea comprises a two arms nanoantenna, made of metallic ferromagnetic cobalt-silver alloy (Co6Ag94), inspired by the analogous radio frequency half-wave dipole antenna design. Numerical results, obtained under the magnetization saturation condition, indicate a tilting of the radiated beam depending on the magnitude and sense of the magnetization of the ferromagnetic material. Significantly, we obtained tilting angles as large as ±9.7∘ around the y axis for the magnetization placed along the x or z axes, respectively. Results in this work not only open up a new, to the best of our knowledge, way to dynamically manipulate the beam steering at the chip-scale, but also contribute to unveil novel magneto-optical effects at the nanoscale.

Magnetoplasmonic Nanoantennas for On-Chip Reconfigurable Optical Wireless Communications.

On-chip wireless communications require optical nanoantennas with dynamically tunable radiation patterns, which may allow for higher integration with multiple nanoantennas instead of two fixed nanoantennas in existing approaches. In this paper, we introduce a concept to enable active manipulation of radiated beam steering using applied magnetic fields. The proposed system consists of a highly directive Yagi-Uda-like arrangement of magnetoplasmonic nanoribs made of Co6Ag94 and immersed in SiO2. Numerical demonstration of the tilting of the radiated beam from the nanoantenna on its plane is provided with full-wave electromagnetic simulations using the finite element method. The tilt direction of the radiated beam can be changed by reversing the magnetization direction, while the conventional plasmonic nanoantenna pattern is recovered by demagnetizing the system. The geometry of the nanoantenna can be tailored to work at optical or infrared wavelengths, but a proof of concept for λ = 700 nm is conducted for taking advantage of the high magneto-optical activity of Co6Ag94. The design was based on experimental data for materials that can be fabricated via nanolithography, thus permitting magnetically on-chip reconfigurable optical wireless communications.

Design of Plasmonic Yagi-Uda Nanoantennas for Chip-Scale Optical Wireless Communications.

Optical wireless transmission has recently become a major cutting-edge alternative for on-chip/inter-chip communications with higher transmission speeds and improved power efficiency. Plasmonic nanoantennas, the building blocks of this new nanoscale communication paradigm, require precise design to have directional radiation and improved communication ranges. Particular interest has been paid to plasmonic Yagi-Uda, i.e., the optical analog of the conventional Radio Frequency (RF) Yagi-Uda design, which may allow directional radiation of plasmonic fields. However, in contrast to the RF model, an overall design strategy for the directional and optimized front-to-back ratio of the radiated far-field patterns is lacking. In this work, a guide for the optimized design of Yagi-Uda plasmonic nanoantennas is shown. In particular, five different design conditions are used to study the effects of sizes and spacing between the constituent parts (made of Au). Importantly, it is numerically demonstrated (using the scattered fields) that closely spaced nanoantenna elements are not appropriated for directional light-to-plasmon conversion/radiation. In contrast, if the elements of the nanoantenna are widely spaced, the structure behaves like a one-dimensional array of nanodipoles, producing a funnel-like radiation pattern (not suitable for on-chip wireless optical transmission). Therefore, based on the results here, it can be concluded that the constituent metallic rib lengths must be optimized to exhibit the resonance at the working wavelength, whilst their separations should follow the relation λeff/π, where λeff indicates the effective wavelength scaling for plasmonic nanostructures.

Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: Development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core.

Prosopis juliflora is an invasive plant distributed throughout the world and presents metabolites of interest for cosmetology. The aim of this work was to develop a new polysaccharide-based ingredient from P. juliflora and analyze its application in a solid core formulation that upon contact with water instantly forms a gel to improve moisturizing and anti-aging skin properties. Purified extracts by gel chromatography were characterized by NMR and LC-DAD-MS-MS. The in vitro and in vivo safety, antioxidant activity, formulation development and clinical evaluation were performed. The extract was characterized as containing an α-glucan and phenolics. It was non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic and no skin reactions were observed in vivo. Antioxidant activity were present through different mechanisms. Clinical evaluation reinforced the potential of P. juliflora in skin hydration and microrelief improvement. This innovative form proved to be a prototype of a new product and the first study of an α-glucan as a cosmetic ingredient.

Vegetable moisturizing raw material from "Caatinga" Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

Moisturizing effect of a cosmetic formulation containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) from the Brazilian cerrado biome

Caryocar brasiliense, popularly known in Brazil as “pequi”, is a species widely distributed in the Brazilian Cerrado. The seeds are surrounded by a woody endocarp coated with a yellow fleshy mesocarp rich in oil and vitamin A, whose oil has a useful role in the treatment of skin aging and protection of human skin against UV-induced damage and skin hydration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) on skin hydration, after a single application. Hydration effect assessment was performed by applying the formulations under study (Control – no formulation, vehicle, and vehicle + pequi oil) onto forearm skin of 30 human volunteers. Skin capacitance and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements were analyzed before, and at 1, 2 and 3 hours after, a single application. Evaluation results of a single application of the vehicle containing pequi oil showed an increase in stratum corneum water content, indicating a skin moisturizing effect. Results of the evaluation of immediate effects of TEWL demonstrated that the vehicle containing pequi oil significantly increased skin moisture during the 3 h evaluation period. The formulations containing pequi oil showed clinical efficacy, increasing stratum corneum water content and enhancing skin barrier function.

Caryocar brasiliense, popularmente conhecido como “Pequi”, é uma espécie amplamente distribuída no Cerrado Brasileiro. O fruto é composto por sementes com endocarpo rígido e lenhoso, recoberto pelo mesocarpo carnoso, amarelado, rico em óleos e vitamina A, útil na proteção da pele contra raios UV, no tratamento das marcas senis da pele, bem como na hidratação cutânea. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o efeito cosmético de formulações contendo óleo de pequi (Caryocar brasiliense) na hidratação cutânea, após uma única aplicação. Este efeito foi avaliado instrumentalmente através de medidas da capacitância da pele e pela perda de água transepidérmica após 1, 2 e 3 horas de uma única aplicação das formulações em estudo (controle, veículo e veículo + óleo de pequi) na pele do antebraço de 30 voluntários. Por meio das avaliações, a formulação contendo óleo de pequi aumentou o conteúdo de água no estrato córneo após 1, 2 e 3 horas, além de diminuir a perda de água transepidérmica, aumentando, significativamente, a hidratação cutânea durante as 3 horas de avaliação. A formulação contendo óleo de pequi apresentou eficácia clínica, aumentando o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, bem como promovendo o efeito barreira na pele.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB.