Cyanobacteria Secondary Metabolites as Biotechnological Ingredients in Natural Anti-Aging Cosmetics: Potential to Overcome Hyperpigmentation, Loss of Skin Density and UV Radiation-Deleterious Effects.

The loss of density and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation are among the first noticeable signs of skin aging. Beyond UV radiation and oxidative stress, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) assume a preponderant role in the process, since their deregulation results in the degradation of most extracellular matrix components. In this survey, four cyanobacteria strains were explored for their capacity to produce secondary metabolites with biotechnological potential for use in anti-aging formulations. Leptolyngbya boryana LEGE 15486 and Cephalothrix lacustris LEGE 15493 from freshwater ecosystems, and Leptolyngbya cf. ectocarpi LEGE 11479 and Nodosilinea nodulosa LEGE 06104 from marine habitats were sequentially extracted with acetone and water, and extracts were analyzed for their toxicity in cell lines with key roles in the skin context (HaCAT, 3T3L1, and hCMEC). The non-toxic extracts were chemically characterized in terms of proteins, carotenoids, phenols, and chlorophyll a, and their anti-aging potential was explored through their ability to scavenge the physiological free radical superoxide anion radical (O2•−), to reduce the activity of the MMPs elastase and hyaluronidase, to inhibit tyrosinase and thus avoid melanin production, and to block UV-B radiation (sun protection factor, SPF). Leptolyngbya species stood out for anti-aging purposes: L. boryana LEGE 15486 presented a remarkable SPF of 19 (at 200 µg/mL), being among the best species regarding O2•− scavenging, (IC50 = 99.50 µg/mL) and also being able to inhibit tyrosinase (IC25 = 784 µg/mL), proving to be promising against UV-induced skin-aging; L. ectocarpi LEGE 11479 was more efficient in inhibiting MMPs (hyaluronidase, IC50 = 863 µg/mL; elastase, IC50 = 391 µg/mL), thus being the choice to retard dermal density loss. Principal component analysis (PCA) of the data allowed the grouping of extracts into three groups, according to their chemical composition; the correlation of carotenoids and chlorophyll a with MMPs activity (p < 0.01), O2•− scavenging with phenolic compounds (p < 0.01), and phycocyanin and allophycocyanin with SPF, pointing to these compounds in particular as responsible for UV-B blockage. This original survey explores, for the first time, the biotechnological potential of these cyanobacteria strains in the field of skin aging, demonstrating the promising, innovative, and multifactorial nature of these microorganisms.

Cyanobacteria and microalgae bioactive compounds in skin-ageing: potential to restore extracellular matrix filling and overcome hyperpigmentation.

As the largest organ in human body, skin acts as a physicochemical barrier, offering protection against harmful environmental stressors, such as chemicals, pathogens, temperature and radiation. Nonetheless, skins prominence goes further, with a significant psychosocial role in an increasingly ageing population. Prompted by consumers' concern regarding skincare, cosmetic industry has been developing new formulas capable of lessening the most visible signs of ageing, including reduction in skin density and elasticity, wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. Allied to skincare is the rising importance set on natural products, sustainably obtained from less environmental impacting methods. Cyanobacteria and microalgae are adding importance in this field, given their ability to biosynthesize secondary metabolites with anti-ageing potential. In this review, we present an overview on the potential of cyanobacteria and microalgae compounds to overcome skin-ageing, essentially by exploring their effects on the metalloproteinases collagenase, elastase, gelatinase and hyaluronidase, and in other enzymes involved in the pigmentation process.