The role of chelating agents and amino acids in preventing free radical formation in bleaching systems.

The control of bleaching reaction is important in hair bleaching and laundry detergents to ensure quality of the final product. A better understanding of the reaction mechanisms is needed to minimize product failures. 31P NMR-spectroscopy-based spin trap technique was employed to detect and quantify the free radical species that were generated in different bleaching solutions. These solutions contained the key actives in an alkaline hair colorant/bleaching product, an ammonium salt and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Generally, the main radical species detected in hair oxidative coloring or bleaching processes, were hydroperoxyl/superoxide radicals HO2·/O2.-, amino radicals ·NH2 and hydroxyl radicals ·OH. Their amounts showed a variation based on the chemical composition of the bleaching systems and the metal ion content. The generation of free radicals from reactions between transition metal ions, such as copper, and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10 was evaluated. In the absence of chelating agents, the copper ions generated a significant level of hydroxyl radicals in a Fenton-like reaction with hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Besides that, an increase in copper ion content led to an increase of amino radical ·NH2, whereas the concentration of superoxide radical O2·- decreased which was not yet well reported in the previous literature. The effect of chelating agents like ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium-iminodisuccinate (IDS), a mixture of basic amino acids and dicarboxylic acid on free radical formation was investigated in the presence of binary Cu2+-Ca2+ bleaching systems. As expected, in the binary Cu2+-Ca2+ ion system EDTA did not suppress hydroxyl radical formation effectively, but the mixture containing sodium succinate, lysine and arginine reduced hydroxyl radical formation, whereas IDS (nearly) completely inhibited hydroxyl radical formation. The results indicated that each bleaching solution has its characteristic performance and damage profile. Whereas the reactivity can be controlled by the usage of chelating agents.

Lipophilic prodrugs of amino acids and vitamin E as osmolytes for the compensation of hyperosmotic stress in human keratinocytes.

Skin keratinocytes are subjected to changing osmotic conditions and evolved counteracting mechanisms. Particularly, the expression of osmolyte transporters serves for the maintenance of cell volume in a hypertonic environment. In this study, we show that hyperosmotic stress significantly decreases the proliferation in HaCaT keratinocytes. Supplementation of the culture medium with the amino acids glycine, sarcosine, betaine, taurine and proline restored the proliferation indicating osmoprotective properties of these substances. Amino acids are highly polar molecules and therefore unable to penetrate into deeper epidermal layers after topical application. Thus, we utilized a prodrug concept in which the tested amino acids are coupled to a lipophilic moiety. Ethyl glycinate as a first model compound also showed an osmoprotective effect. In addition, improved penetration of the glycine derivative into deeper epidermal layers could be demonstrated. The prodrug concept was further developed by using the lipid soluble antioxidant alpha-tocopherol as a lipophilic moiety. The derivatives d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) glycinate (TMG) and d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) prolinate caused an increase in proliferation of HaCaT keratinocytes under salt stress and a decrease in apoptosis induced by hypertonic conditions. Furthermore, the osmoprotective effect of d,l-TMG could be corroborated in normal human keratinocytes. Therefore, it seems feasible that amino acids and their lipophilic derivatives may help to improve the osmotic balance and the hydration of skin. Clinical and cosmetic indications such as atopic eczema, UV exposed skin or aged skin may benefit from this new concept.