Radical protection by differently composed creams in the UV/VIS and IR spectral ranges.

Modern sunscreens are well suited to provide sufficient protection in the UV range because the filter substances absorb or scatter UV radiation. Although up to 50% of radicals are formed in the visible and infrared spectral range during solar radiation protection strategies are not provided in this range. Previous investigations of commercially available products have shown that in addition to physical filters, antioxidants (AO) are necessary to provide protective effects in the infrared range by neutralizing already formed radicals. In this study, the efficacy of filter substances and AO to reduce radical formation in both spectral ranges was investigated after UV/VIS or IR irradiation. Optical properties and radical protection were determined for the investigated creams. It was found that organic UV filters lower radical formation in the UV/VIS range to 35% compared to untreated skin, independent of the presence of AO. Further reduction to 14% was reached by addition of 2% physical filters, whereas physical filters alone were ineffective in the UV/VIS range due to the low concentration. In contrast, this filter type reduced radical formation in the IR range significantly to 65%; similar effects were aroused after application of AO. Sunscreens which contain organic UV filters, physical filters and AO ensure protection in the complete solar spectrum.

Lipophilic prodrugs of amino acids and vitamin E as osmolytes for the compensation of hyperosmotic stress in human keratinocytes.

Skin keratinocytes are subjected to changing osmotic conditions and evolved counteracting mechanisms. Particularly, the expression of osmolyte transporters serves for the maintenance of cell volume in a hypertonic environment. In this study, we show that hyperosmotic stress significantly decreases the proliferation in HaCaT keratinocytes. Supplementation of the culture medium with the amino acids glycine, sarcosine, betaine, taurine and proline restored the proliferation indicating osmoprotective properties of these substances. Amino acids are highly polar molecules and therefore unable to penetrate into deeper epidermal layers after topical application. Thus, we utilized a prodrug concept in which the tested amino acids are coupled to a lipophilic moiety. Ethyl glycinate as a first model compound also showed an osmoprotective effect. In addition, improved penetration of the glycine derivative into deeper epidermal layers could be demonstrated. The prodrug concept was further developed by using the lipid soluble antioxidant alpha-tocopherol as a lipophilic moiety. The derivatives d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) glycinate (TMG) and d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) prolinate caused an increase in proliferation of HaCaT keratinocytes under salt stress and a decrease in apoptosis induced by hypertonic conditions. Furthermore, the osmoprotective effect of d,l-TMG could be corroborated in normal human keratinocytes. Therefore, it seems feasible that amino acids and their lipophilic derivatives may help to improve the osmotic balance and the hydration of skin. Clinical and cosmetic indications such as atopic eczema, UV exposed skin or aged skin may benefit from this new concept.