The COLIPA in vitro UVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection.

There is a continuing need to measure and communicate reliably the UVA protection offered by commercial sunscreens. To that end, the COLIPA (European Cosmetics Trade Association) 'In Vitro Sun Protection Methods' group has developed a new in vitro method for measuring UVA protection in a standardized, reproducible manner. The method is based on in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and convolution of resulting absorbance data with the action spectrum for the in vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) endpoint to provide an in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) which is correlated with an in vivo measure. This method has been published as a COLIPA guideline, used currently in European geographies for testing and labelling sunscreen products. This article summarizes two 'ring' studies, involving eight separate testing laboratories, which both defined critical parameters for the method and validated it. In Ring Study 1, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 24 sunscreens and, from the data, a unit dose of UVA (D(0) of 1.2 J cm(-2)) was defined to provide a single irradiation step which, by taking into account potential sunscreen photo-instability, gave the closest agreement with in vivo UVAPF values. In Ring Study 2, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 13 sunscreens using this single irradiation step and established a very good correlation (r(2) = 0.83; slope = 0.84, P < 0.0001) between resulting in vitro UVAPF values and corresponding values derived from the in vivo PPD method. This new method, therefore, can be used to provide a reliable in vitro metric to describe and label UVA efficacy in sunscreen products, in line with the EU Commission recommendation 2006/247/EC.

Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical.

The antiaging efficacy of retinol (ROL) has been explored mainly clinically in photoprotected skin sites and for high doses of ROL (0.4-1.6%). The objective of the study was to demonstrate the antiaging action of a low and tolerable dose of ROL (0.1%) ex vivo by measuring the expression of cellular retinoic-acid-binding protein II (CRABP2) and heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HBEGF) by a histological evaluation of the epidermis and in vivo by assessing major aging signs and performing three-dimensional profilometry and digital imaging during a 9-month double-blind placebo-controlled study involving 48 volunteers. Finally, epidermal cell proliferation was evaluated using tryptophan fluorescence spectroscopy. Our results demonstrate that 0.1% ROL induced CRABP2 and HBEGF gene expression and increased keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal thickness. In human volunteers, topical application of a ROL-containing product improved all major aging signs assessed in our study (wrinkles under the eyes, fine lines and tone evenness). Moreover, tryptophan fluorescence increased in the active-agent-treated group and not in the placebo-treated group, indicating that cell proliferation was accelerated in vivo. These data demonstrate that a product containing a low dose (0.1%) of ROL promotes keratinocyte proliferation ex vivo and in vivo, induces epidermal thickening ex vivo and alleviates skin aging signs, without any significant adverse reaction.

Influence of facial skin attributes on the perceived age of Caucasian women.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: The facial appearance of a person does not always reflect the chronological age; some people look younger or older than they really are. Many studies have described the changes in skin properties (colour, wrinkles, sagging, micro relief, etc.) with age, but few of them have analysed their influence on the perceived age. The primary objective of this study was to assess the contribution of individual skin attributes of the face on the perceived age of Caucasian women. Secondary objectives were to assess the influence of age and gender of graders with regard to the age perception. SUBJECTS AND METHOD: A random sample of 173 subjects of 20 to 74 years of age was taken from a database of more than 5000 healthy Caucasian women. A trained grader performed visual assessment of facial skin attributes (using a visual analogue scale), and a front face photograph was taken from each subject. Photographs were shown to 48 graders (20 men and 28 women, aged 22-64 years) who were asked to estimate the age of the subjects. Graders were classified as young (less than 35 years), middle age (35-50 years) and seniors (older than 50 years). Partial Least Square regression models were built to predict the chronological and the perceived age from the measured facial individual attributes. The contribution of each attribute within the regression model enabled to measure the relevance of this attribute with regards to age prediction. RESULTS: The eye area and the skin colour uniformity were the main attributes related to perceived age. For age prediction, older graders' estimations were more driven by lips border definition shape and eyes opening, whereas younger graders' (older than 50 years) estimations were more driven by dark circles, nasolabial fold and brown spots. There were statistically significant differences in graders' age perception between gender and among age ranges. Our findings suggest that female graders are more accurate than male, and younger graders (under 35 years) are more accurate than older (over 50 years) to predict Caucasian women age from facial photographs. CONCLUSIONS: Different skin attributes influence the estimation of age. These attributes have a different weight in the evaluation of the perceived age, depending on the age and of the observer. The most important attributes to estimate age are eyes, lips and skin colour uniformity.

Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study.

The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of the combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid applied topically on photodamaged skin. Forty female volunteers were enrolled in a double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical study. A cream containing retinol, lactose and glycolic acid was applied on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other side, twice daily for 12 weeks. Skin photoageing signs were assessed clinically, whereas skin microrelief and moisturization were measured instrumentally. Both the clinical assessment and the objective instrumental measurements revealed that the active-treated side was significantly improved at the end of the study compared with baseline and control-treated side. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin.

An in vivo method to assess the photostability of UV filters in a sunscreen.

An in vivo method was developed in order to study the photostability of UV filters in a sunscreen. This method assesses sunscreen photostability in the emulsion after direct interaction with the skin. For this purpose UV filters were recovered from volunteers' forearms by using the stripping technique, then extracted from tapes and quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The photostability of the filters tested was evaluated by comparing the amount of filters recovered from the strippings of UV-irradiated skin (40 minimal erythema dose, or MED) versus non-irradiated skin. Sequential analysis of several successive tapes reflected the distribution profile of the filters in the stratum corneum. Photochemical change was observed for one filter: it was shown to undergo a photochemical modification with the appearance of an additional HPLC peak. Moreover, UV filters tested displayed a high affinity for the stratum corneum but presented different distribution profiles. This in vivo method takes into account the interaction of the sunscreen agents with the stratum corneum. Furthermore, unlike spectrometric methods usually used for photostability assessment, it gives quantitative data for each individual filter of a finished product by using an HPLC technique.

Correlation between percutaneous penetration of methyl nicotinate and sensitive skin, using laser Doppler imaging.

Cutaneous penetration of methyl nicotinate has been investigated in 20 women divided into reactors and non-reactors on the basis of response to 10% aqueous solution of lactic acid. The vasodilation induced was measured using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) every 5 min for 1 h after application of methyl nicotinate. The intensity and duration of inflammation generated by methyl nicotinate were used to assess penetration of this chemical in persons with sensitive skin compared to those with normal skin. Significant differences were found between reactors and non-reactors. Reactors showed a significantly increased intensity of response to methyl nicotinate as early as 5 min after application, and for 30 min afterwards, though the duration of inflammation in these 2 groups was the same. Correlation between increased penetration of methyl nicotinate and skin response to lactic acid may suggest increased penetration of water-soluble chemicals in individuals with sensitive skin.

pH measurements during lactic acid stinging test in normal and sensitive skin.

Because of the lack of objective signs, the phenomenon of sensitive skin is hard to document. The measurement of the skin pH variations in the nasolabial fold, and on the forearm, after a single application of lactic acid on a preselected sensitive skin population, versus a control one, is proposed as a useful test to detect this kind of population.

A new method for skin care product evaluation based on the laser Doppler imaging technique.

Synopsis Laser Doppler perfusion imaging was used to assess the vasoactive effect of a cosmetic product on a cutaneous inflammation model: erythema induced by methyl nicotinate. Measurements were carried out on ten healthy volunteers after a rest in an environmental controlled room, and trials were performed on the ventral surface of the forearms. Recordings of cutaneous perfusion were made every 10 min after application of the vasodilator. The decrease in the highest value of perfusion on the test site was significantly higher with the cosmetic compared to the control site 30 min after its application. Fifty minutes after application, the difference between the test and control sites was 53%.