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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 45(2): 246-254, 2023 Apr.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36588426

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration-enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration-enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect. METHODS: Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and FT-IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair. RESULTS: Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT-IR and FT-IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction. CONCLUSIONS: The GA penetration-enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use.


OBJECTIF: L'acide glyoxylique (AG) est largement utilisé en tant qu'agent de lissage pour les produits de soins capillaires. Cependant, des agents avancés améliorant la pénétration de l'AG sont souhaités en raison de l'odeur particulière et de la décoloration des cheveux causées par l'utilisation continue de produits à base d'AG. Il est donc important de mettre au point un agent améliorant la pénétration qui contribue à minimiser la concentration d'AG. Nous avons constaté que l'utilisation combinée de l'AG et de l'acide glycolique (AGC) a un fort effet lissant sur les cheveux. MÉTHODES: Un test de lissage des cheveux a été effectué pour évaluer l'effet des additifs. Une chromatographie en phase liquide avec spectrométrie de masse (liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, LC/MS) a été réalisée pour quantifier le volume de pénétration de l'AG dans les cheveux humains. Une spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Fourier (Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy, FT-IR) à réflexion totale atténuée (RTA) et un microscope FT-IR ont été adoptés pour estimer la localisation de l'AG dans les cheveux. RÉSULTATS: Les tests de lissage des cheveux ont indiqué que l'effet de lissage des cheveux de l'AG était renforcé par la présence d'AGC. Les résultats de la LC/MS ont montré que l'ajout d'AGC augmentait d'environ quatre fois la quantité d'AG pénétrant dans les cheveux humains. Les mesures de la FT-IR à RTA et du microscope FT-IR ont indiqué que l'AG était plus localisé dans la région la plus interne du cheveu (médulla) que dans le cortex et la cuticule. L'AG accumulé dans la médulla a disparu après un traitement au lisseur à cheveux à 180 °C en raison de la réaction chimique. CONCLUSIONS: L'effet d'amélioration de la pénétration de l'AG observé avec l'AGC mérite d'être étudié afin de réduire la concentration d'AG dans les produits pour une utilisation plus confortable.


Assuntos
Cabelo , Microscopia , Humanos , Espectroscopia de Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier/métodos , Cabelo/química
2.
Bioresour Technol ; 99(9): 3659-64, 2008 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-17890081

RESUMO

To reduce nutrient cost for lactic acid production, rice bran, one of agricultural wastes, was chosen as a nutrient source in this study. Although rice bran is rich in protein and vitamins, the use of rice bran without any treatment was inefficient in lactic acid production. Rice bran was treated by acid-hydrolysis before it was put in experiment, when it was hydrolyzed at initial pH 1, 30 g/L rice bran could provide a productivity to that degree of about 8 g/L YE, showing such a desirable result that the use of rice bran as nutrient source would be a solution for reducing nutrient cost. However, the addition of hydrolyzed rice bran prolonged lag phase of fermentation, especially, in the fermentation with rice bran hydrolyzed at initial pH 0.5, a prolonged lag phase of about 40 h was observed. According to the quantitative determination of thiamine, pyridoxine, organic nitrogen and carbon, the prolongation of lag phase might be the result from the destruction of B vitamins and excessive hydrolysis of protein. To shorten the lag phase, combining hydrolyzed rice bran with yeast extract (YE) of small amount was considered to be a solution. When 3g/L YE was combined with 30 g/L rice bran hydrolyzed at initial pH 1, obtained was a productivity 1.6 times higher than that of the control fermentation with 15 g/L YE.


Assuntos
Fermentação , Ácido Láctico/biossíntese , Oryza/metabolismo , Sulfato de Amônio/farmacologia , Carbono/análise , Fermentação/efeitos dos fármacos , Alimentos , Concentração de Íons de Hidrogênio , Hidrólise/efeitos dos fármacos , Lactobacillus/efeitos dos fármacos , Lactobacillus/metabolismo , Nitrogênio/análise , Oryza/efeitos dos fármacos , Piridoxina/análise , Tiamina/análise , Leveduras/efeitos dos fármacos
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