Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material.

OBJECTIVE: This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used. METHODS: In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers. RESULTS: Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula. CONCLUSION: The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude a été lancée et menée par plusieurs laboratoires, trois des principaux fournisseurs d'ingrédients cosmétiques et quatre marques de cosmétiques en France. Son objectif est de montrer qu'associer les analyses chimiques et génétiques dans l'identification des espèces végétales présente un intérêt et est une approche solide. Dans cette étude, c'est le genre Lavandula qui a été utilisé. MÉTHODES: Dans cette étude, nous avons fait appel à deux méthodes analytiques. L'analyse chimique, à partir de la chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography, UHPLC), et l'analyse génétique en procédant à un codage à barres avec des marqueurs génétiques. RÉSULTATS: Onze espèces de lavande ont été sélectionnées (authentifiées du point de vue botanique) et analysées. Les résultats montrent que trois composés chimiques (acide coumarique hexoside, acide ferulique hexoside et acide rosmarinique) et trois marqueurs génétiques (RbcL, trnH-psbA et ITS) présentent un intérêt pour la différenciation des espèces du genre lavandula. CONCLUSION: Les résultats montrent que la combinaison de méthodes analytiques complémentaires est un système pertinent pour prouver l'identification végétale des espèces de lavande. Cette première étude, réalisée sur une plante qui offre un intérêt pour les cosmétiques, démontre la nécessité de procéder à une authentification à l'aide d'un outil qui conjugue analyse génétique et chimique ; elle représente une avancée par rapport aux méthodes d'investigation traditionnelles utilisées seules, en termes d'identification et de fiabilité de l'authentification.

Algae extract-mediated stimulation and protection of proteasome activity within human keratinocytes exposed to UVA and UVB irradiation.

Sun exposure is the major environmental influence for epidermal cells; the harmful effect of UV radiation on skin is related to the generation of reactive oxygen species that alter cellular components including proteins. It is now well established that the proteasome is responsible for the degradation of most of oxidized proteins and that impairment of proteasome function is a hallmark of cellular aging. In a previous study, we investigated the effects of UV irradiation on proteasomes in human keratinocyte cultures and showed that all three peptidase activities were decreased 24 h after irradiation of the cells. Increased levels of oxidatively modified proteins were observed in irradiated cells and were found to act as endogenous inhibitors of the proteasome. We report here on the stimulating and protective effects of an algae extract, prepared from Phaeodactylum tricornutum, on proteasome peptidase activities of human keratinocytes exposed to UVA and UVB irradiation. In addition, preserving proteasome function resulted in lowering the extent of the irradiation-induced protein oxidative damage, opening up new strategies for protection of epidermal cells against the detrimental effects of UV irradiation.

Algae extract protection effect on oxidized protein level in human stratum corneum.

Modification of proteins by reactive oxygen species is implicated in different disorders. The proteasome is a multicatalytic proteinase in charge of intracellular protein turnover and of oxidized proteins degradation. Consequently, proteasome function is very important in controlling the level of altered proteins in eukaryotic cells. Evidence for a decline in proteasome activity during skin photo-aging has been provided in Bulteau et al. in 2002. The ability of a lipid algae extract (Phaeodactylum tricornutum) to stimulate 20S proteasome peptidase activities was described by Nizard et al. in 2001. Furthermore, keratinocytes treated with Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract and then UVA and UVB irradiated, exhibited a sustained level of proteasome activity comparable to the one of nonirradiated cells. The level of modified proteins can be quantified by measurement of protein carbonyl content (Oxyblot technique), which has been shown to increase with aging and other disorders. In this paper, it is described that, in the presence of this lipid algae extract, the level of oxidized proteins is reduced, as assessed by the Oxyblot technique. These results are obtained both with culture of human keratinocytes and stratum corneum skin cells (obtained by stripping) from human volunteers. Altogether, these results argue for the presence of compounds in this algae extract that have a stimulating and/or protective effect on proteasome activity, resulting in a decreased level of protein oxidation.