Importance of shoulder girdle and finger flexor muscle endurance in advanced male climbers.

Aim: This study aimed to: (a) assess the relationships between climbing performance and finger and shoulder girdle muscle endurance; and (b) provide evidence on the validity of the specialized exercise tests used for the purpose. Materials and methods: 28 male sport climbers (climbing ability 23 ± 2.43 IRCRA scale) performed four tests muscle failure, including two-finger hang tests (using 2.5 and 4 cm holds) and two variants of pull-up exercises (classical pull-ups and a combination of dynamic and isometric actions - the so-called Edlinger). Climbing performance and test results were subjected to correlation, taxonomic and regression analysis. Results: The correlations between the results from all tests and climbing performance were notably strong ( r between 0.54 and 0.61) and statistically significant ( p < 0.05 ). The taxonomic analysis indicated that the two variants of each test type reflect two different latent variables 2.5 cm and 4 cm finger hang durations were highly correlated ( r = 0.76 , p < 0.01 ). A similar correlation was found between the results from the pull-up tests ( r = 0.72 , p < 0.01 ). Thus, the finger hang and pull-up test results were determined to a high extent (43% and 49%, respectively) by factors that cannot be assessed when only one test of each type is used. The regression model of the two-finger tests allowed individual endurance profiles to be assessed. Conclusions: The muscular endurance of the elbow flexors and shoulder girdle muscles predicts climbing performance within the specific sport level studied to a comparable degree as finger flexor endurance.The use of two variants of a test intended to assess one physical ability provided important details on a climber's fitness.

What kind of phonation causes the strongest vocal fold collision? - A hemi-larynx phonation contact pressure study.

This paper presents a measurement setup which is able to measure the distribution of small scale pressure on an area of 15.2 mm × 30.4 mm with a sample rate up to 1.2 kHz. It was used to investigate the contact pressures of vocal folds during phonation. This was performed in ex vivo experiments of 11 porcine larynges. The contact pressure at the medial surface and other phonation parameters, as the glottal resistance and the closing velocity of the vocal fold, were measured at different adduction and elongation levels and air flow rates. A statistical analysis was carried out. It could be shown that the contact pressure rises, when the vocal fold is manipulated or when the flow rate is increased.

Behind the Complex Interplay of Phonation: Investigating Elasticity of Vocal Folds With Pipette Aspiration Technique During Ex Vivo Phonation Experiments.

OBJECTIVES: The vibration of the vocal folds produces the primary sound for the human speech. The vibration depends mainly on the pressure, airflow of the lungs, and the material properties of the vocal folds. In order to change them, muscles in the larynx stretch the vocal folds. This interplay is rarely investigated, but can give insight in the complex process of speech production. Most material properties studies are damaging the tissue; therefore, a nondestructive one is desired. METHODS: An ex vivo phonation experiment combined with the dynamic Pipette Aspiration Technique is used to investigate 10 porcine larynges, under manipulations of different adduction and elongation levels. For each manipulation, the near surface material properties of the vocal folds are measured as well as different phonation parameters like the subglottal pressure, glottal resistance, frequency, and stiffness. Thereby, a high-speed camera was used to record the vocal fold movement. RESULTS: On most of the measured parameters, the manipulations do show an effect. Both manipulations lead to a higher phonation frequency and an increase of the stiffness of the tissue. Comparing both manipulations, the elongation results in higher elasticity values than the adduction. Different measurement parameters have been compared with each other and correlations could be found. Where the strongest correlation are found among the elasticity values of different frequencies. But it can also be seen that the elasticity values correlate with phonation parameters. CONCLUSION: It was possible to produce a data set of 560 measurements in total. To our knowledge, this is the first time Pipette Aspiration Technique was combined with ex vivo phonation measurements for combined measurements. The amount of measurement data made it possible to carry out statistic investigations. The effect of the manipulations on material properties as well as on phonation parameters could be measured and different correlations could be found. The results lead to the hypothesis that the stretch does not have a huge effect on the material properties of the lamina propria, but more on the underlying muscle.

Quasi-static ultrasound elastography of ex-vivo porcine vocal folds during passive elongation and adduction.

OBJECTIVES: The elastic properties of the vocal folds have great influence on the primary sound and thus on the entire subsequent phonation process. Muscle contractions in the larynx can alter the elastic properties of the vocal fold tissue. Quasi-static ultrasound elastography is a non-destructive examination method that can be applied to ex-vivo vocal folds. In this work, porcine vocal folds were passively elongated and adducted and the changes of the elastic properties due to that manipulations were measured. METHODS: Manipulations were performed by applying force to sewn-in sutures. Elongation was achieved by a suture attached to the thyroid cartilage, which was pulled forward by defined weights. Adduction was effected by two sutures exerting torque on the arytenoid cartilage. A series of ten specimens was examined and evaluated using a quasi-static elastography algorithm. In addition, the surface stretch was measured optically using tattooed reference points. RESULTS: This study showed that the expected stiffening of the tissue during the manipulations can be measured using quasi-static ultrasound elastography. The measured effect of elongation and adduction, both of which result in stretching of the tissue, is stiffening. However, the relative change of specific manipulations is not the same for the same load on different larynges, but is rather related to stretch caused and other uninvestigated factors. CONCLUSION: The passive elongation and adduction of vocal folds stiffen the tissue of the vocal folds and can be measured using ultrasound elastography.

Analysis of Competition and Training Videos of Speed Climbing Athletes Using Feature and Human Body Keypoint Detection Algorithms.

Compared to 25 years ago, the climbing sport itself has changed dramatically. From a rock climbing modification to a separation in three independent disciplines, the requirements to athletes and trainers increased rapidly. To ensure continuous improvement of the sport itself, the usage of measurement and sensor technology is unavoidable. Especially in the field of the discipline speed climbing, which will be performed as a single discipline at the Olympic Games 2024 in Paris, the current state of the art of movement analysis only consists of video analysis and the benefit of the experience of trainers. Therefore, this paper presents a novel method, which supports trainers and athletes and enables analysis of motion sequences and techniques. Prerecorded video footage is combined with existing feature and human body keypoint detection algorithms and standardized boundary conditions. Therefore, several image processing steps are necessary to convert the recorded movement of different speed climbing athletes to significant parameters for detailed analysis. By studying climbing trials of professional athletes and the used techniques in different sections of the speed climbing wall, the aim among others is to get comparable results and detect mistakes. As a conclusion, the presented method enables powerful analysis of speed climbing training and competition and serves with the aid of a user-friendly designed interface as a support for trainers and athletes for the evaluation of motion sequences.

Methodology for the Automated Visual Detection of Bird and Bat Collision Fatalities at Onshore Wind Turbines.

The number of collision fatalities is one of the main quantification measures for research concerning wind power impacts on birds and bats. Despite being integral in ongoing investigations as well as regulatory approvals, the state-of-the-art method for the detection of fatalities remains a manual search by humans or dogs. This is expensive, time consuming and the efficiency varies greatly among different studies. Therefore, we developed a methodology for the automatic detection using visual/near-infrared cameras for daytime and thermal cameras for nighttime. The cameras can be installed in the nacelle of wind turbines and monitor the area below. The methodology is centered around software that analyzes the images in real time using pixel-wise and region-based methods. We found that the structural similarity is the most important measure for the decision about a detection. Phantom drop tests in the actual wind test field with the system installed on 75 m above the ground resulted in a sensitivity of 75.6% for the nighttime detection and 84.3% for the daylight detection. The night camera detected 2.47 false positives per hour using a time window designed for our phantom drop tests. However, in real applications this time window can be extended to eliminate false positives caused by nightly active animals. Excluding these from our data reduced the false positive rate to 0.05. The daylight camera detected 0.20 false positives per hour. Our proposed method has the advantages of being more consistent, more objective, less time consuming, and less expensive than manual search methods.

Inductive Tracking Methodology for Wireless Sensors in Photoreactors.

In this paper, we present a methodology for locating wireless sensors for the use in photoreactors. Photoreactors are, e.g., used to cultivate photosynthetic active microorganisms. For measuring important parameters like, e.g., the temperature inside the reactor, sensors are needed. Wireless locatable floating sensors would enable it to measure the data anywhere inside the reactor and to get a spatial resolution of the registered data. Due to the well defined propagation properties of magnetic fields and the fact that they are not significantly influenced in underwater environments when using low frequencies, a magnetic induction (MI) system is chosen for the data transmission as well as for the localization task. We designed an inductive transmitter and a receiver capable of measuring the magnetic field in every three spatial directions. The transmitting frequency is set at approx. 300kHz. This results in a wavelength of approx. 1km which clearly exceeds the dimensions of our measurement setup where the transmitter-receiver distances in general are lower than one meter. Due to this fact, only the quasi-static field component has to be considered and the location of the transmitter is calculated by measuring its magnetic field at defined positions and in using the magnetic dipole field equation in order to model its magnetic field geometry. The used measurement setup consists of a transmitter and two receivers. The first measurements were performed without a water filled photoreactor since no differences in the propagation criteria of magnetic fields are expected due to the negligibly low differences in the relative magnetic permeability of water and air. The system is calibrated and validated by using a LIDAR depth camera that is also used to locate the transmitter. The transmitter positions measured with the camera are therefore compared with the inductively measured ones.

Dynamic Biomechanical Analysis of Vocal Folds Using Pipette Aspiration Technique.

The voice producing process is a complex interplay between glottal pressure, vocal folds, their elasticity and tension. The material properties of vocal folds are still insufficiently studied, because the determination of material properties in soft tissues is often difficult and connected to extensive experimental setups. To shed light on this less researched area, in this work, a dynamic pipette aspiration technique is utilized to measure the elasticity in a frequency range of 100-1000 Hz. The complex elasticity could be assessed with the phase shift between exciting pressure and tissue movement. The dynamic pipette aspiration setup has been miniaturized with regard to a future in-vivo application. The techniques were applied on 3 different porcine larynges 4 h and 1 d postmortem, in order to investigate the deterioration of the tissue over time and analyze correlation in elasticity values between vocal fold pairs. It was found that vocal fold pairs do have different absolute elasticity values but similar trends. This leads to the assumption that those trends are more important for phonation than having same absolute values.

A Quasi-Static Quantitative Ultrasound Elastography Algorithm Using Optical Flow.

Ultrasound elastography is a constantly developing imaging technique which is capable of displaying the elastic properties of tissue. The measured characteristics could help to refine physiological tissue models, but also indicate pathological changes. Therefore, elastography data give valuable insights into tissue properties. This paper presents an algorithm that measures the spatially resolved Young's modulus of inhomogeneous gelatin phantoms using a CINE sequence of a quasi-static compression and a load cell measuring the compressing force. An optical flow algorithm evaluates the resulting images, the stresses and strains are computed, and, conclusively, the Young's modulus and the Poisson's ratio are calculated. The whole algorithm and its results are evaluated by a performance descriptor, which determines the subsequent calculation and gives the user a trustability index of the modulus estimation. The algorithm shows a good match between the mechanically measured modulus and the elastography result-more precisely, the relative error of the Young's modulus estimation with a maximum error 35%. Therefore, this study presents a new algorithm that is capable of measuring the elastic properties of gelatin specimens in a quantitative way using only the image data. Further, the computation is monitored and evaluated by a performance descriptor, which measures the trustability of the results.

Intensification of Photobiocatalytic Decarboxylation of Fatty Acids for the Production of Biodiesel.

Light-driven biocatalytic processes are notoriously hampered by poor penetration of light into the turbid reaction media. In this study, wirelessly powered light-emitting diodes are found to represent an efficient and scalable approach for process intensification of the photobiosynthetic production of diesel alkanes from renewable fatty acids.

Automated setup for ex vivo larynx experiments.

Ex vivo larynx experiments are limited in time due to degeneration of the laryngeal tissues. In order to acquire a significant and comparable amount of data, automatization of current manual experimental procedures is desirable. A computer controlled, electro-mechanical setup was developed for time-dependent variation of specific physiological parameters, including adduction and elongation level of the vocal folds and glottal flow. The setup offers a standardized method to induce defined forces on the laryngeal cartilages. Furthermore, phonation onset is detected automatically and the subsequent measurement procedure is automated and standardized to improve the efficiency of the experimental process. The setup was validated using four ex vivo porcine larynges, whereas each validation measurement series was executed with one separate larynx. Altogether 31 single measurements were undertaken, which can be summed up to a total experimental time of about 4 min. Vocal fold elongation and adduction lead both to an increase in fundamental frequency and subglottal pressure. Measurement procedures like applying defined subglottal pressure steps and onset-offset detection were reliably executed. The setup allows for a computer-based parameter control, which enables fast experimental execution over a wide range of laryngeal configurations. This maximizes the number of measurements and reduces personal effort compared with manual procedures.

Ultrasonic imaging of complex specimens by processing multiple incident angles in full-angle synthetic aperture focusing technique.

In the evaluation of large-scale metallic specimens, X-ray CT suffers from limited penetration, which results in artifacts in the reconstructed image. Data fusion of information obtained by different modalities allows correction of those artifacts. In this contribution, an approach is presented to provide complementary data of the inner pattern of the specimen by ultrasonic testing in immersion mode. To process an ultrasonic imaging full-angle synthetic aperture focusing technique, data are acquired along the a priori known contour of the specimen. Substantial discrepancies in speed of sound between the couplant and the material of the specimen lead to refraction effects which are corrected by a virtual source element method. Furthermore, several incident angles at each virtual source are utilized to achieve an enhanced detectability of inner structural edges. However, arising reverberations limit image quality and must be suppressed by predictive deconvolution. Additionally, a subspace analysis and projection method is utilized to remove echoes of the a priori known surface in the reconstructed image which potentially mask information of near-surface structures. In comparison with exclusively perpendicular insonification, resulting images show a significant enhanced possibility of detection for inner structural edges even in adverse orientations for ultrasonic imaging. Furthermore, surface echoes and reverberations are suppressed by the proposed filter methods in a reliable way.

A method for characterizing stapes prostheses by their mechanical transfer function.

In this contribution, we present and evaluate a method for characterizing stapes prostheses by their mechanical transfer function. The measurements were carried out after a stapedotomy surgery was performed in three human temporal bones conserved in 4% formaldehyde. The inner ear was drained of fluid. Successively, one of three different stapes prostheses was inserted. After such preparation, the prosthesis piston movement compared to the incus movement is measured with laser vibrometry. The magnitude transfer function considered is defined as the amplitude of the prosthesis piston movement compared to the amplitude of the incus movement. Measurements were made in a frequency range from 500Hz to 4kHz. The measured amplitudes roughly ranged between 10nm and 100nm. A great advantage of the presented method is the fact that only a small portion of the ossicular chain influences the measurement, mainly the joint between the prosthesis and the incus. Furthermore, the usage of cadaver temporal bones allows for an automated measurement setup, long term experiments and the access of measurement positions inapproachable during in vivo measurements. With this method, the different kinds of prostheses could be evaluated on incuses of different diameters.

Optical 3-D metric measurements of local vocal fold deformation characteristics in an in vitro setup.

Understanding vocal fold dynamics presents an essential part in treating voice disorders as it is the prerequisite to appropriate medical therapy. Various physical and numerical models exist for simulation purposes, all relying on simplified material parameters. To improve current approaches, data of realistic tissue behavior, i.e., in natural surroundings, have to be considered in model development. An in vitro setup was proposed for tensile tests combined with an optical method for precise, local and metrical 3-D measurements of distinctive surface points. Compared to previous 3-D reconstruction methods, the accuracy was improved tenfold. Vertically applied forces versus resulting deformation were measured for ten porcine vocal folds. Deformation characteristics of mucosa and the two-layer structure of mucosa and muscle (MM) were investigated at three distinctive locations along the vocal fold edge. The spring rates were represented by an exponential function. For equal deflections, an increasing spring rate from posterior to anterior for MM was measured. For solely mucosa, the spring rate decreased from the posterior to the middle and subsequently increased again. The MM-layer presented a stiffer deformation behavior than mucosa. For deformations higher than 1.5 mm, the spring rates for MM were more than twice as high as for mucosa. The investigations display the importance of considering both multilayers and local differences for the improvement of vocal fold models.

Optical reconstruction of high-speed surface dynamics in an uncontrollable environment.

The ability to communicate with our voice can be regarded as the concatenation of the two processes "phonation" and "modulation." These take place in the larynx and palatal and oral region, respectively. During phonation the audible primary voice signal is created by mutual reaction of vocal folds with the exhaled air stream of the lungs. The underlying interactions of masses, fluids and acoustics have yet to be identified and understood. One part of the primary signal's acoustical source are vortex induced vibrations, as e.g., created by the Coandaeffect in the air stream. The development of these vorteces is determined by the shape and 3-D movements of the vocal folds in the larynx. Current clinical in vivo research methods for vocal folds do not deliver data of satisfactory quality for fundamental research, e.g., an endoscope is limited to 2-D image information. Based hereupon, a few improved methods have been presented, however delivering only selective 3-D information, either for a single point or a line. This stands in contrast to the 3-D motions of the entire vocal fold surface. More complex imaging methods, such as MRI, do not deliver information in real-time. Thus, it is necessary to develop an easily applicable, more improved examination method, which allows for 3-D data of the vocal folds surfaces to be obtained. We present a method to calibrate a 3-D reconstruction setup including a laser projection system and a high-speed camera. The setup is designed with miniaturization and an in vivo application in mind. The laser projection system generates a divergent grid of 196 laser dots by diffraction gratings. It is calibrated with a planar calibration target through planar homography. In general, the setup allows to reconstruct the topology of a surface at high frame rates (up to 4000 frames per second) and in uncontrollable environments, as e.g., given by the lighting situation (little to no ambient light) and varying texture (e.g., varying grade of reflection) in the human larynx. In particular, this system measures the 3-D vocal fold surface dynamics during phonation. Applied to synthetic data, the calibration is shown to be robust (error approximately 0.5 µm) regarding noise and systematic errors. Experimental data gained with a linear z -stage proved that the system reconstructs the 3-D coordinates of points with an error at approximately 15 µm. The method was applied exemplarily to reconstruct porcine and artificial vocal folds' surfaces during phonation. Local differences such as asymmetry between left and right fold dynamics, as well as global parameters, such as opening and closing speed and maximum displacements, were identified and quantified.