Preliminary Studies about Valorization of Acmella oleracea Bioactive Content in Modern Dermato-Cosmetic Applications to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress.

The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from Acmella oleracea (A. oleracea) and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on A. oleracea plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of A. oleracea using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 µg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.

Bioactive Compounds for Combating Oxidative Stress in Dermatology.

There are extensive studies that confirm the harmful and strong influence of oxidative stress on the skin. The body's response to oxidative stress can vary depending on the type of reactive oxygen species (ROS) or reactive nitrogen species (RNS) and their metabolites, the duration of exposure to oxidative stress and the antioxidant capacity at each tissue level. Numerous skin diseases and pathologies are associated with the excessive production and accumulation of free radicals. title altered Both categories have advantages and disadvantages in terms of skin structures, tolerability, therapeutic performance, ease of application or formulation and economic efficiency. The effect of long-term treatment with antioxidants is evaluated through studies investigating their protective effect and the improvement of some phenomena caused by oxidative stress. This article summarizes the available information on the presence of compounds used in dermatology to combat oxidative stress in the skin. It aims to provide an overview of all the considerations for choosing an antioxidant agent, the topics for further research and the answers sought in order to optimize therapeutic performance.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress.

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Dermatocosmetic Emulsions Based on Resveratrol, Ferulic Acid and Saffron (Crocus sativus) Extract to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress-Trigger Factor of Some Potential Malignant Effects: Stability Studies and Rheological Properties.

The increasing incidence of skin diseases, against the background of increased pollution, urbanism, poor habits in lifestyle, work, rest, diet and general medication, led to the development of products with a protective effect. These new types of dermatocosmetic preparations ensure maximum benefits with minimal formulation. Antioxidants are, nowadays, ingredients that stand out with a proven role in skin protection from oxidative stress and its effects. Thus, research has shown that light-textured formulas, quickly absorbed into the skin, with optimum hydration and protection against excessive free radicals, uphold the skin integrity and appearance. This article aims to evaluate essential criteria for a newly marketed product: stability, rheological properties and microbiological characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture of 3% resveratrol 0.5% ferulic acid and 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron. The tests led to the conclusion that O / W dermatocosmetic emulsions, based on 3% resveratrol and 0.5% ferulic acid, or also 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron, show resistance to microbiological contamination, good rheological properties (viscoelastic behavior, structural stability, acceptable shearing behavior) that reveal satisfactory texture and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to dermatological testing as the final stage in considering a new commercial product.

Antioxidants from Galium verum as Ingredients for the Design of New Dermatocosmetic Products.

The aim of this study was to use plant extracts from spontaneous flora of Moldova (Rediu-Iasi area, Romania) as polyphenols and flavonoids source in order to obtain new dermato-cosmetic formulas to prevent the actions of oxidative stress on skin. Plant extracts (from raw and dried Galium verum sp.) were obtained by: cold classical maceration (M), heat reflux extraction (HTE) and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE). The extracts were characterized by spectrophotometric method (for polyphenols and flavonoids content and for DPPH antioxidant activity evaluation). In order to evaluate the combating and/or attenuating effects of oxidative stress on skin, the study was continued with the elaboration of emulsions that incorporate one of these extracts. The emulsions were preliminarily characterized by determining the stability over time. The obtained results encourage research in the direction of deeper characterization of these emulsions to determine the microbiological stability and dermatological tests performed on the skin treated with these new products.