Effects of all-trans retinoic acid on melanogenesis in pigmented skin equivalents and monolayer culture of melanocytes.

The effects of all-trans retinoic acid (RA) on melanogenesis and the mechanism of its action in topical treatment have not been elucidated. The purpose of this study was to determine the effects of RA on melanogenesis in the pigmented skin equivalent as well as in monolayer culture of melanocytes, and to determine whether RA, hydroquinone (HQ), and hydrocortisone (HC) show synergistic depigmenting effects in combined treatments of each other. The suppressing effect of RA on melanogenesis was not observed in pigmented skin equivalents and monolayer culture of murine and human melanocytes, although HQ showed strong inhibition of melanogenesis. The synergistic effects between RA, HQ, and HC were not particularly seen. The results suggested that RA neither has direct inhibitory effects on melanogenesis of melanocytes, nor influences the cell-cell interactions between melanocytes, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, such as paracrine actions with regard to melanin production. The role of RA in bleaching treatments appears to be in other specific actions, such as promotion of keratinocytes proliferation and acceleration of epidermal turnover.

Effects of wine phenolics and sorghum tannins on tyrosinase activity and growth of melanoma cells.

In this study, three different phenolic (anthocyanin, other flavonoid, and phenolic acid) fractions from wine and a condensed tannin preparation from sorghum were tested for their effects on melanogenesis of normal cells and growth of human melanoma cells. The wine phenolic fractions decreased melanogenic activity (tyrosinase activity) at concentrations that resulted in a slight variation in melanocyte viability. Sorghum tannins, however, increased melanogenic activity, although no increase was found in total melanin at the concentrations that least affect melanocyte viability. Incubation of human melanoma cells with the wine fractions and sorghum tannins resulted in a decrease in colony formation, although the effect was not dose dependent in all cases. These results suggest that all of these phenolic fractions have potential as therapeutic agents in the treatments of human melanoma, although the mechanisms by which cellular toxicity is effected seem to be different among the fractions.

Bioactive motifs of agouti signal protein.

The switch between the synthesis of eu- and pheomelanins is modulated by the interaction of two paracrine signaling molecules, alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and agouti signal protein (ASP), which interact with melanocytes via the MSH receptor (MC1R). Comparison of the primary sequence of ASP with the known MSH pharmacophore provides no suggestion about the putative bioactive domain(s) of ASP. To identify such bioactive motif(s), we synthesized 15-mer peptides that spanned the primary sequence of ASP and determined their effects on the melanogenic activities of murine melanocytes. Northern and Western blotting were used, together with chemical analysis of melanins and enzymatic assays, to identify three distinct bioactive regions of ASP that down-regulate eumelanogenesis. The decrease in eumelanin production was mediated by down-regulation of mRNA levels for tyrosinase and other melanogenic enzymes, as occurs in vivo, and these effects were comparable to those elicited by intact recombinant ASP. Shorter peptides in those motifs were synthesized and their effects on melanogenesis were further investigated. The amino acid arginine, which is present in the MSH peptide pharmacophore (HFRW), is also in the most active domain of ASP (KVARP). Our data suggest that lysines and an arginine (in motifs such as KxxxxKxxR or KxxRxxxxK) are important for the bioactivity of ASP. Identification of the specific ASP epitope that interacts with the MC1R has potential pharmacological applications in treating dysfunctions of skin pigmentation.

A standardized protocol for assessing regulators of pigmentation.

Varied effects of chemical or biological compounds on mammalian pigmentation have been reported by many groups, but to date, no standardized method has established necessary and/or optimal parameters for testing such agents. A standardized method has been developed to screen compounds with potential effects on pigmentation. The protocol comprises basic parameters to analyze melanogenic effects and allows for further characterization of candidate compounds, providing important insights into their mechanism of action. In this protocol (termed STOPR, for standardized testing of pigmentation regulators), compounds are initially screened using purified tyrosinase and are then tested on melanocytes in culture. After treatment of melanocytes with potentially bioactive compounds, cell proliferation and viability, total melanin accumulated, and melanogenic potential are measured. This protocol is an important first step in characterizing chemical regulation of effects on melanogenesis. When bioactive candidate compounds are identified, testing may proceed for pharmacological or otherwise commercial applications in coculture and/or organ culture models followed by in vivo testing. As an application of this method, results for compounds known to stimulate and/or inhibit melanogenesis (including arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, melanocyte-stimulating hormone, and thymidine dimers) as well as some commercial skin whiteners are reported.