Para-Hydroxycinnamic Acid Mitigates Senescence and Inflammaging in Human Skin Models.

Para-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) is one of the most abundant naturally occurring hydroxycinnamic acids, a class of chemistries known for their antioxidant properties. In this study, we evaluated the impact of pHCA on different parameters of skin aging in in vitro skin models after H2O2 and UV exposure. These parameters include keratinocyte senescence and differentiation, inflammation, and energy metabolism, as well as the underlying molecular mechanisms. Here we demonstrate that pHCA prevents oxidative stress-induced premature senescence of human primary keratinocytes in both 2D and 3D skin models, while improving clonogenicity in 2D. As aging is linked to inflammation, referred to as inflammaging, we analyzed the release of IL-6, IL-8, and PGE2, known to be associated with senescence. All of them were downregulated by pHCA in both normal and oxidative stress conditions. Mechanistically, DNA damage induced by oxidative stress is prevented by pHCA, while pHCA also exerts a positive effect on the mitochondrial and glycolytic functions under stress. Altogether, these results highlight the protective effects of pHCA against inflammaging, and importantly, help to elucidate its potential mechanisms of action.

The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid-related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models.

Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time, this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature ageing. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm) and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67 and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor-alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (14-HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.