Efficacy of a moisturizing cream and facial mask for alleviating skin problems associated with medical mask use: A half-face, randomized controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Prolonged use of medical masks has increased skin-related issues. AIM: To evaluate the efficacy of a facial cream and facial mask in mitigating medical mask related skin symptoms. METHODS: Healthy women were randomly assigned to apply a facial cream (n = 32) or a facial mask plus a facial cream (n = 32) on half-faces after wearing medical masks for 4 h (Tb). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), dryness score, and redness area were assessed at Tb and 10 min after using the cream (T1) in the facial cream group, and at Tb, 1 h after using the facial mask (T2), and 10 min after using the cream (T3) in the combined use group. RESULTS: In the facial cream group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T1 in TEWL (-2.95 ± 0.38 vs. -0.68 ± 0.35 g/h·cm2, p < 0.001) and skin dryness score (-1.00 ± 0.12 vs. 0.00 ± 0.00, p < 0.001). In the combined use group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T2 and T3 in TEWL (T2, -3.46 ± 0.33 vs. -0.09 ± 0.13 g/h·cm2; T3, -4.67 ± 0.31 vs. -0.28 ± 0.22 g/h·cm2) and skin dryness score (T2, -0.63 ± 0.13 vs. 0.03 ± 0.03; T3, -0.94 ± 0.17 vs. 0.19 ± 0.07) (all p < 0.001) then the untreated half-face. The combined use group had significantly lower TEWL at T3 than T2 (p < 0.05). The reduction in redness area was similar between the treated and untreated half-faces in both groups. CONCLUSIONS: The test facial cream and mask significantly improved skin barrier function and alleviated dryness symptoms associated with medical mask use, with the combined use offering superior benefits.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

OBJECTIVE: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. RESULTS: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. CONCLUSION: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties. METHODS: The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device. RESULTS: Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20-30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50 years period and plateau beyond. CONCLUSION: The present study suggests that the 20-30 years period, albeit more clinically 'silent' than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.

OBJECTIF: Pouvoir associer, sur les mêmes sujets masculins chinois, les modifications des signes de vieillissement faciaux avec certaines propriétés mécaniques du tégument. MÉTHODES: Les sévérités de vingt signes du vieillissement faciaux de 219 hommes chinois de différents âges (de 20 à 65 ans) ont été évalués en aveugle par des experts entraînés sur des photographies standardisées en utilisant des échelles cliniques de référence pour les hommes asiatiques issues des Atlas du vieillissement. Sur chaque sujet les propriétés biomécaniques ont été enregistrées sur la zone de la joue (droite ou gauche suivant un plan de randomization) avec un appareil de succion validé, le Cutometer®. Enfin, les paramètres coloriels ont été mesurés sur des images enregistrées avec le VISIA-CR. RÉSULTATS: D'un point de vue clinique, la sévérité de la plupart des signes étudiés augmentent de manière linéaire de 30 à 65 ans, tandis qu'entre 20 et 30 ans les augmentations sont faibles. La couleur de la peau présente une faible, mais linéaire, chute de la luminance et de l'ITA, tandis que les composantes jaune et rouge augmentent légèrement entre 40 et 65 ans. A exception de la fermeté de la peau, les propriétés mécaniques présentent une chute importante entre 30 et 50 ans et un plateau ensuite. CONCLUSION: Cette étude suggère que la période entre 20 et 30 ans, observée comme "silencieuse" d'un point de vue Clinique contrairement aux autres classes d'âge, semble être un moment charnière durant lequel les premières altérations dermiques s'opèrent. De plus amples investigations in vivo usant de techniques d'imageries structurelles (Microscopie Multi-photonique, Echographie…) seraient nécessaires pour confirmer de tells hypothèses.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on the perceived radiance/glow in differently aged women of six countries.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman. RESULTS: A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women. CONCLUSION: Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.

Comparing the self-perceived effects of a facial anti-aging product to those automatically detected from selfie images of Chinese women of different ages and cities.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the agreement, after 1-month application of a popular and efficient anti-aging product, between self-perceived facial signs of aging and those detected and graded by an automatic A.I-based system, using smartphones' selfie images. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Of 1065 Chinese women, aged 18-60 years, from eight different Chinese cities were recruited. They were asked to apply daily, for 1 month, a referential anti-aging product onto their whole face. Selfie images were taken by all subjects at D0 and D28 and sent to our facilities for being analyzed through 10 different facial signs. At D28 , all subjects were asked to fill a questionnaire on the status of their faces, through six general statements. RESULTS: A global agreement between both approaches is reached, particularly among women older than 40 years where the severity of facial signs is already more pronounced or among younger women who present at least facial signs scored above one grading units. This limit becomes, therefore, a prerequisite in the recruitment of Chinese subjects in the case of anti-aging applied studies and possible automatically based on automatic grading system. When respecting such conditions, the positive effects of the product on most facial signs can be demonstrated after 28 days of successive applications. CONCLUSION: Such methodological approach paves the road in fulfilling the need of consumers of a better transparency in the claims of an anti-aging product.

Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study.

Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm(2)) and determination of their respective sizes in mm(2). Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally refected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having "enlarged pores" like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore's morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed.

Solar exposure(s) and facial clinical signs of aging in Chinese women: impacts upon age perception.

A new reference clinical atlas of facial signs dedicated to photoaging was applied to 301 Chinese women of various ages through standardized photographs. Such approach aimed at better describing the facial changes induced by both real/chronological age and sun exposure and their respective impact on two subcohorts of different behavior with regard to sun exposure. A total of 28 various facial signs were individually graded according to their severity by a panel of experts, and a perceived apparent age of each subject was assessed. Results showed that the severity of major signs significantly increased rather linearly with age, with a higher rate in sun-exposed subjects as compared with subjects who regularly avoid sun exposure. The severity of facial signs, all impacted by sun exposure, better correlated with perceived apparent age than real/chronological age. The protocol used in the present work, similar to that previously applied to two cohorts of French women, assigned a greater impact of sun exposure in the facial aging signs of Asian women - all clinical signs are influenced by extrinsic factors - as compared with Caucasian women of comparable ages, likely related to much more intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation.