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J Cosmet Dermatol ; 23(5): 1745-1752, 2024 May.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38372022

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2-MNG to melanin precursors. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate 2-MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo. METHODS: In a randomized, intra-individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin-rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2-MNG alone or 0.5% 2-MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl-SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4-n-butyl-resorcinol (4-n-BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference. RESULTS: 2-MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2-MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2-MNG 0.5% alone. 2-MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4-n-BR. CONCLUSIONS: 2-MNG inhibited both UV-induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2-MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin-rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.


Assuntos
Glicina , Pigmentação da Pele , Raios Ultravioleta , Humanos , Adulto , Raios Ultravioleta/efeitos adversos , Feminino , Pigmentação da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Pigmentação da Pele/efeitos da radiação , Masculino , Glicina/farmacologia , Glicina/administração & dosagem , Glicina/análogos & derivados , Melaninas/efeitos da radiação , Voluntários Saudáveis , Adulto Jovem , Pessoa de Meia-Idade , Banho de Sol , Pele/efeitos da radiação , Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Pele/metabolismo
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