Combining the use of two non-invasive instruments to confirm that a formula can improve skin luminance while respecting constitutive melanogenesis.

INTRODUCTION: Skin radiance products achieve perceivable benefits with different sort of mechanism of action. AIMS: To use two non-invasive instrumental devices to evaluate the effectiveness of a cosmetic formula designed to improve skin reflectance while respecting skin integrity. PATIENTS AND METHODS: Subjects (N = 43) aged 18-50 years old had healthy skin of phototype V-VI and Individual Typology Angle between -10° and -50°. The treatment was applied twice weekly for 4 weeks on a delineated area of the back, and an adjacent area was left untreated. Instrumental and clinical scoring assessments of treated and untreated skin were performed at baseline and Day 26. RESULTS: Between baseline and Day 26, reflectance (Delta L*) increased by 1.27 points and was considered as clinically relevant. Dermatologist clinical scoring of radiance significantly improved from 2.6 to 3.6 after 4 weeks of treatment and the Skin Color Chart Clarity level significantly decreased from a score of 15.5 to 14.3, representing a skin reflectance improvement. Conversely, the change between baseline and Day 26 in Mexameter Melanin Density was not clinically different for treated skin versus untreated skin (difference of 2.54). At Day 26, changes from baseline for Mexameter Melanin Density and Delta L* parameters appeared to be uncorrelated (r = -0.036). CONCLUSIONS: This combination of two non-invasive devices can be useful to confirm that a product can modulate skin reflectance without modifying constitutive pigmentation. The formula tested in this study did not interfere with constitutive melanogenesis.

Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial.

BACKGROUND: UVA1 rays (340-400 nm) contribute to carcinogenesis, immunosuppression, hyperpigmentation, and aging. Current sunscreen formulas lack sufficient absorption in the 370-400 nm wavelengths range. Recently, a new UVA1 filter, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) exhibiting a peak of absorption at 385 nm, was approved by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety for use in sunscreen products. These studies evaluated, in a three-dimensional skin model and in vivo, the protection afforded by state-of-the-art sunscreen formulations enriched with MCE. TRIAL DESIGN: This study is a monocentric, double-blinded, randomized, and comparative trial. This study is registered at ClinicalTrials.gov with the identification number NCT04865094. METHODS: The efficacy of sunscreens with MCE was compared with that of reference formulas. In a three-dimensional skin model, histology, protein, and gene expression were analyzed. In the clinical trial, pigmentation was analyzed in 19 volunteers using colorimetric measurements and visual scoring. RESULTS: MCE addition in reference formulas enlarged the profile of absorption up to 400 nm; reduced UVA1-induced dermal and epidermal alterations at cellular, biochemical, and molecular levels; and decreased UVA1-induced pigmentation. CONCLUSIONS: Addition of MCE absorber in sunscreen formulations leads to full coverage of UV spectrum and improved UVA1 photoprotection. The data support benefits in the long term on sun-induced consequences, especially those related to public health care issues.

Vitamin C Prevents Ultraviolet-induced Pigmentation in Healthy Volunteers: Bayesian Meta-analysis Results from 31 Randomized Controlled versus Vehicle Clinical Studies.

Background: Repeated nonextreme sun exposures induce skin pigmentation by increasing melanin production and by oxidizing preexisting melanin and melanin precursors. This leads to skin disorders and skin color heterogeneity such as hyperpigmented spots. Objective: We assessed 31 randomized, controlled clinical trials to determine the potential of vitamin C to limit ultraviolet (UV) daylight-induced pigmentation, considering dose response and different skin type populations (Caucasian and Chinese). Materials and Methods: Thirty-one intraindividual, randomized, controlled clinical trials involving Caucasian and Chinese subjects (15-35 healthy male or female volunteers per study, 741 total volunteers) 18 to 50 years of age with Phototype III and individual typology angle (ITA) value between 28 and 49 degrees were analyzed. The 31 studies assessed the potential of vitamin C (formulated with the copolymer Styrène-Anhydride Maléique [SMA]) to decrease pigmentation induced by UV daylight exposure. Results were combined using a Bayesian meta-analysis to provide probabilistic evidence of the effects of vitamin C by dose and population. Results: Vitamin C was effective in reducing pigmentation induced by UV daylight-simulated expositions (4 days at 0.75 Individual Minimal Erythemal Dose [MEDi]) in a dose-dependent manner. During the depigmentation phase, no additive value was provided by the vitamin C, suggesting that the lightening properties described in the literature for vitamin C correspond to an antipigmenting quality rather than a depigmenting effect. Conclusion: Vitamin C is a valuable and safe dermocosmetic antipigmenting compound with a strong effect at 10% possibly useful in preventing signs of photoaging.