Bioactivation of cinnamic alcohol in a reconstructed human epidermis model and evaluation of sensitizing potency of the identified metabolites.

Background: Cinnamic alcohol is a natural compound, widely used in fragrances, which can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Cinnamic alcohol lacks intrinsic reactivity and autoxidation or metabolic activation is necessary for it to act as a sensitizer. Methods: Bioactivation of cinnamic alcohol was explored using human liver microsomes, human liver S9 and SkinEthic™ Reconstructed Human Epidermis. A targeted multiple reaction monitoring mass spectrometry method was employed to study and quantify cinnamic alcohol along with eight potential phase I or phase II metabolites. The reconstructed human epidermis model, treated with cinnamic alcohol, was also analyzed with a non-targeted high-resolution mass spectrometry method to identify metabolites not included in the targeted method. Results: Two metabolites identified with the targeted method, namely, pOH-cinnamic alcohol and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde, have not previously been identified in a metabolic in vitro system. Their reactivity toward biologically relevant nucleophiles was investigated and compared to their sensitizing potency in vivo in the murine local lymph node assay (LLNA). According to the LLNA, the pOH-cinnamic alcohol is non-sensitizing and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde is a moderate sensitizer. This makes pOH-cinnamic aldehyde less sensitizing than cinnamic aldehyde, which has been found to be a strong sensitizer in the LLNA. This difference in sensitizing potency was supported by the reactivity experiments. Cinnamic sulfate, previously proposed as a potential reactive metabolite of cinnamic alcohol, was not detected in any of the incubations. In addition, experiments examining the reactivity of cinnamic sulfate toward a model peptide revealed no evidence of adduct formation. The only additional metabolite that could be identified with the non-targeted method was a dioxolan derivative. Whether or not this metabolite, or one of its precursors, could contribute to the sensitizing potency of cinnamic alcohol would need further investigation. Discussion: Cinnamic alcohol is one of the most common fragrance allergens and as it is more effective to patch test with the actual sensitizer than with the prohapten itself, it is important to identify metabolites with sensitizing potency. Further, improved knowledge of metabolic transformations occurring in the skin can improve prediction models for safety assessment of skin products.

Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharides promote skin barrier repair through the Claudin family.

BACKGROUND: Plant polysaccharides have various biological activities. However, few studies have been conducted on the skin barrier of Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharide extract (PURP). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The proportions of polysaccharides, monosaccharides and proteins were determined by extracting polysaccharides from fruit meal using water. The healing rate was measured by cell scratch assays. SDS-damaged reconstructed human epidermal models, an acetone-ether-induced mouse model and an IL-4-induced cellular inflammation model were used to detect the effects of polysaccharides on the phenotype, HA, TEWL, and TEER, with further characterizations performed using QRT-PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence (IF) assays. RESULTS: PURP contained 35.73% polysaccharides and 11.1% proteins. PURP promoted cell migration and increased skin thickness in a reconstructed human epidermis model. The TEWL significantly decreased, and the HA content significantly increased. PURP significantly increased the TEER and decreased the permeability of the SDS-damaged reconstructed human epidermis model. Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 were significantly upregulated. IF and Western blot analysis revealed that the Claudin-4 level significantly increased after treatment with PURP. Claudin-1, Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 gene expression and IF and immunohistochemical staining were significantly increased in mice treated with acetone-ether. PURP promoted the expression of Claudin-1, Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 after treatment with 100 ng/mL IL-4. PURP also downregulated the expression of NO, IL6, TNFα and NFκB in Raw 264.7 cells and in a mouse model. CONCLUSION: We hypothesize that PURP may repair the skin barrier by promoting the expression of the claudin family and can assist in skin therapy.

Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Reference chemical database for the development and validation of in vitro alternatives to skin irritation and comparison of the performance of RhE models.

After EU ban on animal testing for cosmetics in 2013, there has been an increasing global interest in alternatives test methods. To development for alternatives test method, we need to get the toxic data about in vitro and in vivo of chemicals. However, database sometimes provide limited in vivo and in vitro data on chemicals. Further, the data generated using the OECD TG439 (in vitro skin irritation) are scattered in difference databases, and it is not easy to navigate through them. Therefore, we complied 'Reference Chemical Database System for Skin Irritation Alternative Test (RCDS-Skin Irritation)' to allow easy, one-stop access to test chemical information. We established the systematic RCDS-Skin Irritation by collecting physiochemical properties, CAS number, human data, and in vivo (OECD TG404) data from overseas chemicals database including European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) etc., and in vitro data using Reconstructed human Epidermis (RhE) (OECD TG439). As a result, we developed the RCDS-Skin Irritation that contains information on 149 chemicals including the data we generated by performing tests using EpiDerm™ SIT, SkinEthic™ RHE and KeraSkin™ SIT. Therefore, the RCDS-Skin Irritation established based on our study will provide insight for safety assessment of chemicals and for development of alternative test methods.

Electrical Impedance Spectroscopy Quantifies Skin Barrier Function in Organotypic In Vitro Epidermis Models.

3 D human epidermal equivalents (HEEs) are a state-of-the-art organotypic culture model in pre-clinical investigative dermatology and regulatory toxicology. Here, we investigated the utility of electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) for non-invasive measurement of HEE epidermal barrier function. Our setup comprised a custom-made lid fit with 12 electrode pairs aligned on the standard 24-transwell cell culture system. Serial EIS measurements for seven consecutive days did not impact epidermal morphology and readouts showed comparable trends to HEEs measured only once. We determined two frequency ranges in the resulting impedance spectra: a lower frequency range termed EISdiff correlated with keratinocyte terminal differentiation independent of epidermal thickness and a higher frequency range termed EISSC correlated with stratum corneum thickness. HEEs generated from CRISPR/Cas9 engineered keratinocytes that lack key differentiation genes FLG, TFAP2A, AHR or CLDN1 confirmed that keratinocyte terminal differentiation is the major parameter defining EISdiff. Exposure to pro-inflammatory psoriasis- or atopic dermatitis-associated cytokine cocktails lowered the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers and reduced EISdiff. This cytokine-associated decrease in EISdiff was normalized after stimulation with therapeutic molecules. In conclusion, EIS provides a non-invasive system to consecutively and quantitatively assess HEE barrier function and to sensitively and objectively measure barrier development, defects and repair.

Electrical Impedance Spectroscopy Quantifies Skin Barrier Function in Organotypic In Vitro Epidermis Models.

Three-dimensional human epidermal equivalents (HEEs) are a state-of-the-art organotypic culture model in preclinical investigative dermatology and regulatory toxicology. In this study, we investigated the utility of electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) for noninvasive measurement of HEE epidermal barrier function. Our setup comprised a custom-made lid fit with 12 electrode pairs aligned on the standard 24-transwell cell culture system. Serial EIS measurements for 7 consecutive days did not impact epidermal morphology, and readouts showed comparable trends with HEEs measured only once. We determined 2 frequency ranges in the resulting impedance spectra: a lower frequency range termed EISdiff correlated with keratinocyte terminal differentiation independent of epidermal thickness and a higher frequency range termed EISSC correlated with stratum corneum thickness. HEEs generated from CRISPR/Cas9-engineered keratinocytes that lack key differentiation genes FLG, TFAP2A, AHR, or CLDN1 confirmed that keratinocyte terminal differentiation is the major parameter defining EISdiff. Exposure to proinflammatory psoriasis- or atopic dermatitis-associated cytokine cocktails lowered the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers and reduced EISdiff. This cytokine-associated decrease in EISdiff was normalized after stimulation with therapeutic molecules. In conclusion, EIS provides a noninvasive system to consecutively and quantitatively assess HEE barrier function and to sensitively and objectively measure barrier development, defects, and repair.

KoCVAM-led development of phototoxicity alternative test method using reconstructed human epidermis model (KeraSkin™).

Phototoxicity is an acute toxic reaction induced by topical skin exposure to photoreactive chemicals followed by exposure to environmental light and thus chemicals that absorb UV are recommended to be evaluated for phototoxic potential. There are currently three internationally harmonized alternative test methods for phototoxicity. One of them is the in vitro Phototoxicity: RhE Phototoxicity test method (OECD TG498). Korean center for the Validation of Alternative Methods (KoCVAM) developed an in vitro phototoxicity test method using a KeraSkin™ reconstructed human epidermis model (KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay) as a 'me-too' test method of OECD TG498. For the development and optimization of KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay, the following test chemicals were used: 6 proficiency chemicals in OECD TG498 (3 phototoxic and 3 non-phototoxic), 6 reference chemicals in OECD Performance Standard No. 356 (excluding the proficiency test chemicals, 3 phototoxic and 3 non-phototoxic) and 13 additional chemicals (7 phototoxic and 6 non-phototoxic). Based on the test results generated from the test chemicals above, the overall predictive capacity of KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay was calculated. In particular, the assay exhibited 100 % accuracy, 100 % sensitivity, and 100 % specificity. Therefore, it fulfills the requirements to be included as a 'me-too' test method in OECD TG498.

The inter-laboratory validation study of EpiSensA for predicting skin sensitization potential.

The Epidermal Sensitization Assay (EpiSensA) is a reconstructed human epidermis (RhE)-based gene expression assay for predicting the skin sensitization potential of chemicals. Since the RhE model is covered by a stratified stratum corneum, various kinds of test chemicals, including lipophilic ones and pre-/pro-haptens, can be tested with a route of exposure akin to an in vivo assay and human exposure. This article presents the results of a formally managed validation study of the EpiSensA that was carried out by three participating laboratories. The purpose of this validation study was to assess transferability of the EpiSensA to new laboratories along with its within- (WLR) and between-laboratory reproducibility (BLR). The validation study was organized into two independent stages. As demonstrated during the first stage, where three sensitizers and one non-sensitizer were correctly predicted by all participating laboratories, the EpiSensA was successfully transferred to all three participating laboratories. For Phase I of the second stage, each participating laboratory performed three experiments with an identical set of 15 coded test chemicals resulting in WLR of 93.3%, 93.3%, and 86.7%, respectively. Furthermore, when the results from the 15 test chemicals were combined with those of the additional 12 chemicals tested in Phase II of the second stage, the BLR for 27 test chemicals was 88.9%. Moreover, the predictive capacity among the three laboratories showed 92.6% sensitivity, 63.0% specificity, 82.7% accuracy, and 77.8% balanced accuracy based on murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) results. Overall, this validation study concluded that EpiSensA is easily transferable and sufficiently robust for assessing the skin sensitization potential of chemicals.

Reconstructed human epidermis-based testing strategy of skin sensitization potential and potency classification using epidermal sensitization assay and in silico data.

The hazards and potency of skin sensitizers are traditionally determined using animal tests such as the local lymph node assay (LLNA); however, significant progress has been made in the development of non-animal test methods addressing the first three mechanistic key events of adverse outcome pathway in skin sensitization. We developed the epidermal sensitization assay (EpiSensA), which is a reconstructed human epidermis-based assay, by measuring four genes related to critical keratinocyte responses during skin sensitization. Four in vitro skin sensitization test methods (EpiSensA, direct peptide reactivity assay [DPRA], KeratinoSens™, and human cell line activation test [h-CLAT]) were systematically evaluated using 136 chemicals including lipophilic chemicals and pre/pro-haptens, which may be related to assay-specific limitations. The constructed database included existing and newly generated data. The EpiSensA showed a broader applicability domain and predicted the hazards with 82.4% and 78.8% accuracy than LLNA and human data. The EpiSensA could detect 76 out of 88 sensitizers at lower concentrations than the LLNA, indicating that the EpiSensA has higher sensitivity for the detection of minor sensitizing constituents. These results confirmed the potential use of the EpiSensA in evaluating a mixture of unknown compositions that can be evaluated by animal tests. To combine different information sources, the reconstructed human epidermis-based testing strategy (RTS) was developed based on weighted multiple information from the EpiSensA and TImes MEtabolism Simulator platform for predicting Skin Sensitization (TIMES-SS; RTSv1) or Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) QSAR Toolbox automated workflow (RTSv2). The predictivities of the hazards and Globally Harmonized System (GHS) subcategories were equal to or better than the defined approaches (2 out of 3, integrated testing strategy [ITS]v1, and ITSv2) adopted as OECD Guideline 497.

A Comprehensive Comparison of Tissue Processing Methods for High-Quality MALDI Imaging of Lipids in Reconstructed Human Epidermis.

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of in vivo and ex vivo human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of sample preparation techniques, i.e., substrate, sample thickness, washing, and matrix recrystallization, on the quality of MALDI MSI for lipids analysis of the SkinEthic RHE model. Images were generated using an atmospheric pressure MALDI source coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer with a pixel size of 5 µm. Masses detected in a defined region of interest were analyzed and annotated using the LipostarMSI platform. The results indicated that the combination of (1) coated metallic substrates, such as APTES-coated stainless-steel plates, (2) tissue sections of 6 µm thickness, and (3) aqueous washing before HCCA matrix spraying (without recrystallization), resulted in images with a significant signal intensity as well as numerous m/z values. This refined methodology using AP-MALDI coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer should improve the current sample preparation workflow to evaluate changes in skin composition after application of dermatocosmetics.

Human Epidermal Keratinocytes in Culture: A Story of Multiple Recipes for a Single Cell Type.

BACKGROUND: For one half-century, cultures of human epidermal keratinocytes have opened new paths of research in skin biology and dermatology. Either performed with serum and feeder layer, in serum-free conditions, or in autocrine conditions, cells cultured as monolayers became research materials for basic science and dermatology, as well as a source for grafting, particularly to treat severely burned patients. More recently, tissue reconstruction at air-liquid interface has opened new perspectives for in vitro toxicology, studies of epidermal barrier, and modeling skin diseases. SUMMARY: This review presents a brief retrospective of the emergence of keratinocyte-based culture techniques. It also presents opportunities and eventual problems that researchers might encounter when exploring the skin using such procedures. KEY MESSAGES: While methodologies in tissue culture evolve, the multiplicity of procedures concomitantly increases, requiring to make some selective but difficult choice. Keeping tracks of technological evolution in epidermal cell culture should help choosing the adequate methodology for a specific investigation or innovating with new, more dedicated ones.

PhotoSENSIL-18 assay development: Enhancing the safety testing of cosmetic raw materials and finished products to support the in vitro photosensitization assessment?

Although photosensitization remains a major toxicological endpoint for the safety assessment of cosmetic products and their raw materials, there is no validated in vitro method available for the evaluation of this adverse effect so far. Given that previous studies have proposed that the Interleukine-18 (IL-18) plays a key role in keratinocyte-driven pro-inflammatory responses specific of the skin sensitization process, we hypothesize that IL-18 might be used as a specific biomarker for in vitro photosensitization assessment. The aim of the present study was the set-up of a new in vitro assay using IL-18 as a biomarker for the identification of photosensitizers in a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model. EpiCS™ RHE were incubated with a set of 16 known sensitising / phototoxic / photosensitizing substances and exposed to ultra-violet (UV) irradiation. Then, the cell viability was analysed by MTT assay, while the IL-18 secretion was quantified by ELISA. Preliminary assays have shown that 1 h of incubation followed by a recovery period of 23 h induced the highest IL-18 production in response to UV exposure. This protocol was used to test 16 substances and a ratio of IL-18 production (UV+/UV- ratio) was then generated. Our data shows that the cut-off of 1.5 (UV+/UV- ratio) is the most predictive model among the tested conditions, being capable of identifying true positive photosensitizers (8 of 9) with a good prediction in comparison with in vivo data. In a nutshell, our data suggests that the PhotoSENSIL-18 is a promising in vitro method for identification of photosensitizing substances. Although further studies are necessary to optimize the model, we foresee that the PhotoSENSIL-18 assay can be used in the context of an Integrative Approach to Testing and Assessment (IATA) of chemicals.

In vitro assessment of inflammatory skin potential of poly(methyl methacrylate) at non-cytotoxic concentrations.

Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) is considered an attractive substrate material for fabricating wearable skin sensors such as fitness bands and microfluidic devices. Despite its widespread use, inflammatory and allergic responses have been attributed to the use of this material. Therefore, the main objective of this study was to obtain a comprehensive understanding of potential biological effects triggered by PMMA at non-cytotoxic concentrations using in vitro models of NIH3T3 fibroblasts and reconstructed human epidermis (RhE). It was hypothesized that concentrations that do not reduce cell viability are sufficient to activate pathways of inflammatory processes in the skin. The study included cytotoxicity, cell metabolism, cytokine quantification, histopathological, and gene expression analyses. The NIH3T3 cell line was used as a testbed for screening cell toxicity levels associated with the concentration of PMMA with different molecular weights (MWs) (i.e., MW ~5,000 and ~15,000 g/mol). The lower MW of PMMA had a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50 ) value of 5.7 mg/cm2 , indicating greater detrimental effects than the higher MW (IC50 = 14.0 mg/cm2 ). Non-cytotoxic concentrations of 3.0 mg/cm2 for MW ~15,000 g/mol and 0.9 mg/cm2 for MW ~5,000 g/mol) induced negative metabolic changes in NIH3T3 cells. Cell viability was severely reduced to 7% after the exposure to degradation by-products generated after thermal and photodegradation degradation of PMMA. PMMA at non-cytotoxic concentrations still induced overexpression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, chemokines, and growth factors (IL1B, CXCL10, CCL5, IL1R1, IL7, IL17A, VEGFA, FGF2, IFNG, IL15) on the RhE model. The inflammatory response was also supported by histopathological and gene expression analyses of PMMA-treated RhE, indicating tissue damage and gene overexpression. Results suggested that non-cytotoxic concentrations of PMMA (3.0 to 5.6 mg/cm2 for MW ~15,000 g/mol and 0.9 to 2.1 mg/cm2 for MW ~5,000 g/mol) were sufficient to negatively alter NIH3T3 cells metabolism and activate inflammatory events in the RhE skin.

Comparison of structural characteristics and molecular markers of rabbit skin, pig skin, and reconstructed human epidermis for an ex vivo human skin model.

The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development approved a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model for in vitro skin irritation and corrosion tests as an alternative to animal testing for cosmetics, which has been banned in the European Union since 2013. However, RHE models have several limitations, such as high manufacturing costs, a loose skin barrier, and inability to simulate all cellular and non-cellular components of the human epidermis. Therefore, new alternative skin models are needed. Ex vivo skin models have been suggested as promising tools. Here, we investigated the structural similarities in the epidermis of pig and rabbit skin, a commercial RHE model (Keraskin), and human skin. To compare the structural similarity, the thickness of each epidermal layer was compared using molecular markers. Among the candidate human skin surrogates, the epidermal thickness of the pig skin was the most similar to that of human skin, followed by rabbit skin and Keraskin. Keraskin showed thicker cornified and granular layers than human skin, while rabbit skin displayed thinner layers. Moreover, the proliferation indices of Keraskin and rabbit skin were higher than those of human skin, whereas the proliferation index of the pig skin was similar to that of human skin. Some or none of the human skin barrier proteins FLG, CLDN1, and CDH1 were expressed in pig and rabbit skin, whereas all human proteins were expressed in Keraskin. Collectively, we propose ex vivo pig skin as the most suitable model for skin irritation testing because of its similarity to human skin. Supplementary Information: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-023-00185-1.

Parallel evaluation of alternative skin barrier models and excised human skin for dermal absorption studies in vitro.

Skin permeation is a primary consideration in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients, topical drugs, and human users handling veterinary medicinal products. While excised human skin (EHS) remains the 'gold standard' for in vitro permeation testing (IVPT) studies, unreliable supply and high cost motivate the search for alternative skin barrier models. In this study, a standardized dermal absorption testing protocol was developed to evaluate the suitability of alternative skin barrier models to predict skin absorption in humans. Under this protocol, side-by-side assessments of a commercially available reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) model (EpiDerm-200-X, MatTek), a synthetic barrier membrane (Strat-M, Sigma-Aldrich), and EHS were performed. The skin barrier models were mounted on Franz diffusion cells and the permeation of caffeine, salicylic acid, and testosterone was quantified. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and histology of the biological models were also compared. EpiDerm-200-X exhibited native human epidermis-like morphology, including a characteristic stratum corneum, but had an elevated TEWL as compared to EHS. The mean 6 h cumulative permeation of a finite dose (6 nmol/cm2) of caffeine and testosterone was highest in EpiDerm-200-X, followed by EHS and Strat-M. Salicylic acid permeated most in EHS, followed by EpiDerm-200-X and Strat-M. Overall, evaluating novel alternative skin barrier models in the manner outlined herein has the potential to reduce the time from basic science discovery to regulatory impact.

Interactions between Malassezia and New Therapeutic Agents in Atopic Dermatitis Affecting Skin Barrier and Inflammation in Recombinant Human Epidermis Model.

Several studies have reported the pathogenic role of Malassezia in atopic dermatitis (AD); the significance of Malassezia's influence on AD needs to be further investigated. Dupilumab, a monoclonal antibody to anti-Interleukin (IL) 4Rα, and ruxolitinib, a Janus kinase (JAK)1/2 inhibitor, are the first approved biologics and inhibitors widely used for AD treatment. In this study, we aimed to investigate how Malassezia Restricta (M. restricta) affects the skin barrier and inflammation in AD and interacts with the AD therapeutic agents ruxolitinib and anti-IL4Rα. To induce an in vitro AD model, a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was treated with IL-4 and IL-13. M. restricta was inoculated on the surface of RHE, and anti-IL4Rα or ruxolitinib was supplemented to model treated AD lesions. Histological and molecular analyses were performed. Skin barrier and ceramide-related molecules were downregulated by M. restricta and reverted by anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib. Antimicrobial peptides, VEGF, Th2-related, and JAK/STAT pathway molecules were upregulated by M. restricta and suppressed by anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib. These findings show that M. restricta aggravated skin barrier function and Th2 inflammation and decreased the efficacy of anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib.

Assessment of antibacterial properties and skin irritation potential of anodized aluminum impregnated with various quaternary ammonium.

The importance of the inert environment in the transmission of pathogens has been reassessed in recent years. To reduce cross-contamination, new biocidal materials used in high touch surfaces (e.g., stair railings, door handles) have been developed. However, their impact on skin remains poorly described. The present study aimed to evaluate the antibacterial properties and the risk of skin irritation of two materials based on hard-anodized aluminum (AA) impregnated with quaternary ammonium compound solutions (QAC#1 or QAC#2). The QAC#1 or QAC#2 solutions vary in composition, QAC#2 being free of dioctyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (Dio-DAC) and octyl decyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (ODDAC). Unlike AA used as a control, both AA-QAC#1 and AA-QAC#2 had excellent and rapid antibacterial efficacy, killing 99.9 % of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria, in 15 s and 1 min, respectively. The impregnation solutions (QAC#1 and QAC#2) did not show any skin sensitizing effect on transformed human keratinocytes. Nevertheless, these solutions as well as the materials (AA-QAC#1, AA-QAC#2), and the liquid extracts derived from them, induced a very rapid cytotoxicity on L929 murine fibroblasts (>70 % after 1 h of contact) as shown by LDH, MTS and neutral red assays. This cytotoxicity can be explained by the fast QACs release occurring when AA-QAC#1 and AA-QAC#2 were immersed in aqueous medium. To overcome the limitation of assays based on liquid condition, an in vitro skin irritation assay on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was developed. The effect of the materials upon their direct contact with the epidermis grown at the liquid-air interface was determined by evaluating tissue viability and quantifying interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α) which is released in skin during injury or infection. AA-QAC#1 induced a significant decrease in RHE viability, close to OECD and ISO 10993-10 acceptability thresholds and enhanced the pro-inflammatory IL-1α secretion compared with AA-QAC#2. Finally, these results were corroborated by in vivo assays on mice using erythema and edema visual scores, histological observations, and epidermal thickness measurement. AA had no effect on the skin, while a stronger irritation was induced by AA-QAC#1 compared with AA-QAC#2. Hence, these materials were classified as moderate and slight irritants, respectively. In summary, this study revealed that AA-QAC#2 without Dio-DAC and ODDAC could be a great candidate for high touch surface applications, showing an extremely effective and rapid bactericidal activity, without inducing adverse effects for skin tissue.

Modelling the Complexity of Human Skin In Vitro.

The skin serves as an important barrier protecting the body from physical, chemical and pathogenic hazards as well as regulating the bi-directional transport of water, ions and nutrients. In order to improve the knowledge on skin structure and function as well as on skin diseases, animal experiments are often employed, but anatomical as well as physiological interspecies differences may result in poor translatability of animal-based data to the clinical situation. In vitro models, such as human reconstructed epidermis or full skin equivalents, are valuable alternatives to animal experiments. Enormous advances have been achieved in establishing skin models of increasing complexity in the past. In this review, human skin structures are described as well as the fast evolving technologies developed to reconstruct the complexity of human skin structures in vitro.

How to facilitate the implementation of 3D models in China by applying good in vitro method practice for regulatory use.

The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Guidance Document No. 34 and No. 286 on Good In Vitro Method Practices (GIVIMPs) for the development and implementation of in vitro methods for regulatory use in human safety assessment have been endorsed. Considering that China is accelerating the development of alternative approaches in both research and acceptance, early application of these principles is beneficial to the implementation and acceptance of in vitro alternative methods in China. To promote the replacement of animal testing for regulatory use, L'Oréal initiated the EpiSkin™ skin irritation test (SIT) implementation program in China. More than 50 external scientists participated, and the method has been established in 34 organizations including authorities, industries, and testing service laboratories. Taking two collaborations with Guangdong CDC and Shanghai SGS for in vitro SIT as examples, we demonstrated a method implementation process in good alignment with the OECD principles. The current study illustrated the practical way in which both OECD Guidance documents assisted in the transfer and establishment of in vitro approaches and further promoted the future scientific recognition and acceptance of new OECD-accepted alternative testing methodologies in China.