Effects of Plant Meristem-Cell-Based Cosmetics on Menopausal Skin: Clinical Data and Mechanisms.

A randomised open clinical/laboratory study was performed to evaluate the safety and cosmetic efficacy of facial cosmetics for females during the menopausal period. The cosmetics contain active ingredients of meristem cells derived from the medicinal plants Leontopodium alpinum, Buddeleja davidii, Centella asiatica, and Echinacea angustifolia. Recently, the major bioactive molecules of these medicinal plants (leontopodic acid, verbascoside, asiaticoside, and echinacoside, respectively) have been thoroughly evaluated in vitro for molecular pathways and cellular mechanisms and their preventive/curative effects on human skin cells exposed to factors promoting premature skin ageing and cellular senescence. Nevertheless, clinical data on their safety/efficacy to ageing human skin are scarce. This clinical study enrolled 104 Caucasian females in pre-menopause, menopause, or post-menopause periods. They applied cosmetic serums daily for 1 month. Questionnaires and instrumental and biochemical methods were used to assess dermatological/ophthalmological safety and cosmetic efficacy through changes of the skin physiology markers characteristic of ageing/menopause (elasticity, barrier functions, moisture, sebum, ultrasonic properties, and collagen content and structure). Quantitative microbiological tests were carried out for skin microbiota fluctuations. Data showed that the cosmetics were safe, and they shifted the skin physiology parameters to a younger biological age, enhanced collagen synthesis, inhibited lipid peroxidation, and favoured normal microbiota.

Anti-ageing mechanism of topical bioactive ingredient composition on skin based on network pharmacology.

OBJECTIVE: To elucidate the anti-ageing mechanism of the combination of eight ingredients on the skin from a multidimensional view of the skin. METHODS: The target pathway mechanisms of composition to delay skin ageing were investigated by a network pharmacology approach and experimentally validated at three levels: epidermal, dermal, and tissue. RESULTS: We identified 24 statistically significant skin ageing-related pathways, encompassing crucial processes such as epidermal barrier repair, dermal collagen and elastin production, inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as modulation of acetylcholine and acetylcholine receptor binding. Furthermore, our in vitro experimental findings exhibited the following outcomes: the composition promotes fibroblast proliferation and the expression of barrier-related genes in the epidermis; it also stimulated the expression of collagen I, collagen III, and elastic fibre while inhibiting ROS and ß-Gal levels in HDF cells within the dermis. Additionally, Spilanthol in the Acmella oleracea extract contained in the composition demonstrated neuro-relaxing activity in Zebrafish embryo, suggesting its potential as an anti-wrinkle ingredient at the hypodermis level. CONCLUSIONS: In vitro experiments validated the anti-ageing mechanism of composition at multiple skin levels. This framework can be extended to unravel the functional mechanisms of other clinically validated compositions, including traditional folk recipes utilized in cosmeceuticals.

OBJECTIF: Élucider le mécanisme anti­âge de la combinaison de huit ingrédients sur la peau d'un point de vue multidimensionnel. MÉTHODES: Les mécanismes des voies cibles de la composition pour retarder le vieillissement de la peau ont été étudiés par une approche de pharmacologie des réseaux et validés expérimentalement à trois niveaux : épidermique, dermique et tissulaire. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons identifié 24 voies statistiquement significatives liées au vieillissement de la peau, englobant des processus cruciaux tels que la réparation de la barrière épidermique, la production de collagène et d'élastine dermiques, l'inhibition des espèces réactives de l'oxygène (ROS), ainsi que la modulation de l'acétylcholine et de la liaison des récepteurs de l'acétylcholine. En outre, nos résultats expérimentaux in vitro ont montré les résultats suivants : la composition favorise la prolifération des fibroblastes et l'expression des gènes liés à la barrière dans l'épiderme ; elle stimule également l'expression du collagène I, du collagène III et de la fibre élastique tout en inhibant les niveaux de ROS et de ß­Gal dans les cellules HDF au sein du derme. En outre, le Spilanthol de l'extrait d'Acmella oleracea contenu dans la composition a démontré une activité neuro­relaxante dans l'embryon de poisson zèbre, suggérant son potentiel en tant qu'ingrédient anti­rides au niveau de l'hypoderme. CONCLUSIONS: Les expériences in vitro ont validé le mécanisme anti­âge de la composition à plusieurs niveaux de la peau. Ce cadre peut être étendu pour élucider les mécanismes fonctionnels d'autres compositions validées cliniquement, y compris les recettes populaires traditionnelles utilisées dans les produits cosméceutiques.

Topical Formulation with Niacinamide Combined with 5 MHz Ultrasound for Improving Skin Ageing: A Double-blind, Randomised, Placebo-controlled Clinical Study.

INTRODUCTION: Skin ageing is a complex process influenced by various factors. Personal care products claim to address ageing signs, yet clinical efficacy tests lack standardised regulations. Niacinamide (NIA) is known for skin benefits, including managing hyperpigmentation and enhancing the barrier function. The 5 MHz unfocused ultrasound (5-US) is a technological intervention for cutaneous ageing, lacking sufficient literature. This study aimed to clinically assess a topical formulation with NIA, combined with facial application of unfocused 5-US. METHODS: Sixty-seven female subjects (30-60 years) with signs of aged skin participated in the study. They were enrolled and randomised into four groups: (A) placebo formulation, (B) cosmetic formulation, (C) placebo formulation plus 5-US, and (D) cosmetic formulation plus 5-US. Groups C and D performed the aesthetic procedure of 5-US on the entire face, in a total time of 20 minutes per session, once per week (eight total sessions). Clinical, instrumental, and subjective assessments were performed before (T0) and during the eighth week (T8) of the study. RESULTS: The formulation with NIA improved stratum corneum aqueous content and reduced transepidermal water loss. Sebum reduction was observed in groups utilising the formulation. Consumer evaluations indicated improvements in appearance, firmness, elasticity, and reduced wrinkles, notably in Groups C and D. Sensory analysis indicated overall product acceptability. CONCLUSION: The formulation with NIA improved skin hydration and reduced sebum content in mature skin, while subjective evaluations indicated qualitative improvements in skin appearance. Although 5-US alone did not show instrumental improvements, protocol adjustments and longer study periods may yield better results. The comprehensive approach provides an innovative perspective into potential synergies, suggesting future directions for anti-ageing interventions in skin care.

Unlocking the role of herbal cosmeceutical in anti-ageing and skin ageing associated diseases.

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

The impact of air pollution on the facial skin of Caucasian women using real-life pollutant exposure measurements.

BACKGROUND: To date, studies examining the effect of air pollution on skin characteristics have relied on regional pollution estimates obtained from fixed monitoring sites. Hence, there remains a need to characterize the impact of air pollution in vivo in real-time conditions. We conducted an initial investigation under real-life conditions, with the purpose of characterizing the in vivo impact of various pollutants on the facial skin condition of women living in Paris over a 6-month period. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A smartphone application linked to the Breezometer platform was used to collect participants' individual exposures to pollutants through the recovery of global positioning system (GPS) data over a 6-month period. Daily exposure to fine particulate matter (PM 2.5 µm and PM 10 µm), pollen, and air quality was measured. Facial skin color, roughness, pore, hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle measurements were taken at the end of the 6-month period. Participants' cumulated pollutant exposure over 6 months was calculated. Data were stratified into two groups (lower vs. higher pollutant exposure) for each pollutant. RESULTS: 156 women (20-60 years-old) were recruited, with 124 women completing the study. Higher PM 2.5 µm exposure was associated with altered skin color and increased roughness under the eye. Higher PM 10 µm exposure with increased wrinkles and roughness under the eye, increased pore appearance, and decreased skin hydration. Exposure to poorer air quality was linked with increased forehead wrinkles and decreased skin elasticity, while higher pollen exposure increased skin roughness and crow's feet. CONCLUSION: This study suggests a potential correlation between air pollution and facial skin in real-life conditions. Prolonged exposure to PM, gases, and pollen may be linked to clinical signs of skin ageing. This study highlights the importance of longer monitoring over time in real conditions to characterize the effect of pollution on the skin.

Age-related changes in the bacterial composition of healthy female facial skin in Beijing area.

OBJECTIVE: Exploring the effects of age on microbial community structure and understanding the effects of chronological ageing as well as sun exposure on microbial community diversity. METHOD: The microbial characteristics of the facial skin of 98 adult women aged 18-70 years were studied using 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and differences based on age and reported sun exposure were assessed. RESULTS: The cheek skin's bacterial diversity and richness increased with age. The relative abundance of Cutibacterium decreased with age, while the relative abundance of Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, Paracoccus, Micrococcus, Kocuria, Kytococcus, and Chryseobacterium increased. In addition, an increase in Micrococcus and a decrease in Cutibacterium were observed in volunteers with more than 2 h of daily sun exposure compared to volunteers with <2 h of daily sun exposure. Under low-sunlight conditions, Cutibacterium was more prevalent in the youth group, and Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, and Kytococcus were more prevalent in the older group. CONCLUSION: The diversity and composition of the bacterial community on the cheeks are affected by age and extrinsic factors (sun exposure) may also play a role in this.

OBJECTIF: Étudier les effets de l'âge sur la structure de la communauté microbienne et comprendre les effets du vieillissement chronologique ainsi que de l'exposition au soleil sur la diversité de la communauté microbienne. MÉTHODE: Les caractéristiques microbiennes de la peau du visage de 98 femmes adultes âgées de 18 à 70 ans ont été étudiées à l'aide du séquençage génétique de l'ARNr 16S, et les différences basées sur l'âge et l'exposition au soleil rapportée ont été évaluées. RÉSULTAT: La diversité et la richesse bactériennes de la peau des joues ont augmenté avec l'âge. L'abondance relative de Cutibacterium a diminué avec l'âge, tandis que l'abondance relative de Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, Paracoccus, Micrococcus, Kocuria, Kytococcus et Chryseobacterium a augmenté. De plus, une augmentation de Micrococcus et une diminution de Cutibacterium ont été observées chez des volontaires ayant été exposés au soleil pendant plus de 2 heures par jour par rapport à des volontaires ayant été exposés au soleil pendant moins de 2 heures par jour. Dans des conditions de faible luminosité, Cutibacterium était plus prévalent dans le bras des personnes jeunes, et Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus et Kytococcus étaient plus prévalents dans le bras des personnes plus âgées. CONCLUSION: La diversité et la composition de la communauté bactérienne sur les joues sont affectées par l'âge et des facteurs extrinsèques (exposition au soleil) peuvent également y jouer un rôle.

Delta opioid receptor expression correlates to skin ageing and melanin expression in Asian women.

While the evidence for the implication of opioid receptors (OPr) in ageing is growing, there is, to our knowledge, no study focusing directly on changes in vivo cutaneous OPr expression with increasing age. We thus investigated OPr expression in 30 healthy female Asian volunteers in Southern China whose ages range from the early 20s to the early 60s. Excisional biopsies were taken from the sun-exposed extensor area of the lower arm and the photo-protected area of the upper inner arm. The thickness of the epidermal layers, melanin content, as well as expression of mu-opioid receptors (MOPr) and delta-opioid receptors (DOPr) were compared between different age ranges and photo-exposure status. Significant increased epidermal hypertrophy on the extensor surface was observed. There was significant reduction of DOPr in the epidermis with increasing age, independent of photo-ageing. The increase of melanin was significantly correlated with epidermal DOPr expression, not with MOPr expression. DOPr expression could thus serve as a marker for real biological ageing unaffected by chronic photo-exposure. Additionally, DOPr expression was inversely correlated with the deposition of melanin. Based on these results, we hypothesise that regulation of DOPr expression could be used to improve aged skin, including hyperpigmentation.

Downregulated SPESP1-driven fibroblast senescence decreases wound healing in aged mice.

BACKGROUND: Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) are essential in the processes of skin ageing and wound healing. However, the underlying mechanism of HDFs in skin healing of the elderly has not been well defined. This study aims to elucidate the mechanisms of HDFs senescence and how senescent HDFs affect wound healing in aged skin. METHODS: The expression and function of sperm equatorial segment protein 1 (SPESP1) in skin ageing were evaluated via in vivo and in vitro experiments. To delve into the potential molecular mechanisms by which SPESP1 influences skin ageing, a combination of techniques was employed, including proteomics, RNA sequencing, immunoprecipitation, chromatin immunoprecipitation and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry analyses. Clearance of senescent cells by dasatinib plus quercetin (D+Q) was investigated to explore the role of SPESP1-induced senescent HDFs in wound healing. RESULTS: Here, we define the critical role of SPESP1 in ameliorating HDFs senescence and retarding the skin ageing process. Mechanistic studies demonstrate that SPESP1 directly binds to methyl-binding protein, leading to Decorin demethylation and subsequently upregulation of its expression. Moreover, SPESP1 knockdown delays wound healing in young mice and SPESP1 overexpression induces wound healing in old mice. Notably, pharmacogenetic clearance of senescent cells by D+Q improved wound healing in SPESP1 knockdown skin. CONCLUSIONS: Taken together, these findings reveal the critical role of SPESP1 in skin ageing and wound healing, expecting to facilitate the development of anti-ageing strategies and improve wound healing in the elderly.

Beneficial Effects of Multi-Micronutrient Supplementation with Collagen Peptides on Global Wrinkles, Skin Elasticity and Appearance in Healthy Female Subjects.

INTRODUCTION: With ageing, collagen production slows down, leading to wrinkle appearance and loss of elasticity. Replenishing key structural molecules through oral supplementation is a promising strategy that complements the topical delivery of cosmetic products and creates a holistic skincare regimen. The present study assessed the effectiveness of a food supplement with collagen peptides, vitamins and minerals in improving the quality of the skin and general wellbeing of healthy women. METHODS: This was an open-label study of 135 women aged between 45 and 65 years. A 3-month treatment phase followed a 4-week washout phase, with visits scheduled at baseline and after each month of treatment. Subjects received three tablets of Richelet Skin Renewal daily. The primary outcome was change from baseline to month 3 in global wrinkles score by expert grader analysis. Secondary outcomes included changes in skin elasticity and other skin attributes, product assessment via self-perception questionnaires and total antioxidant status. RESULTS: A total of 116 subjects completed the study. The mean global wrinkles score indicated a statistically significant decrease from 5.9 at baseline to 5.0 at month 3 (p < 0.0001), with 83.6% of subjects showing an improvement; significant changes were reported at all intermediate visits. The increase in skin elasticity was also statistically significant (R2 score 0.74 at month 3; p < 0.0001). All subjects (100%) demonstrated significant improvements in skin texture, skin tone evenness, skin radiance and overall skin quality at the month 3 visit. CONCLUSIONS: The study product achieved statistically significant, noticeable effects on global wrinkles, skin elasticity and a range of skin attributes after 3 months of use in healthy women. These results strengthen the evidence for supplementation of collagen peptides and other micronutrients as an effective component of anti-ageing skincare.

Withania somnifera root extract inhibits MGO-induced skin fibroblast cells dysfunction via ECM-integrin interaction.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Withania somnifera (L.) Dunal, known as Ashwagandha, has long been used in traditional medicine in Ayurveda, India, a representative adaptogen. The main active constituents of W. somnifera are withanolides, and the root is often used as a medicine with a wide range of pharmacological activities, which can be used to treat insomnia, neurasthenia, diabetes mellitus and skin cancer. AIM OF THE STUDY: Whole-component qualitative and quantitative analyses were performed on W. somnifera. We explored the ameliorative effect of the adaptogen representative plant W. somnifera on the senescence events of MGO-injured fibroblasts and its action mechanism and verified the hypotheses that WS can inhibit the accumulation of AGEs and regulate the dynamic balance among the components of the ECM by modulating the expression of integrin ß1 receptor; as a result, WS maintains cellular behavioural and biological functions in a normal range and retards the aging of skin from the cellular level. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In this study, the components of WS were first qualitatively and quantitatively analysed by HPLC fingerprinting and LC-MS detection. Second, a model of MGO-induced injury of CML-overexpressing fibroblasts was established. ELISA was used to detect CML expression and the synthesis of key extracellular matrix ECM protein components COL1, FN1, LM5 and TNC synthesis; CCK-8 was used to detect cell viability; EDU was used to detect cell proliferation capacity; fluorescence was used to detect cell adhesion capacity; and migration assay were used to detect cell migration capacity; qRT-PCR was used to detect the regulatory pathway TGF-ß1 and MMP-2, MMP-9 in ECMs; immunofluorescence was used to detect the expression of ITGB1; and WB was used to detect the expression of COL1, FN1, LM5, Tnc, TGF-ß1, MMP-2, MMP-9 and ITGB1. RESULTS: In total, 27 active ingredients were analysed from WS, which mainly consisted of withanolide components, such as withaferin A and withanolide A. Based on the model of MGO-induced fibroblast senescence injury, WS significantly inhibited CML synthesis. By up-regulating the expression of integrin ß1, it upregulated the expression of the TGF-ß1 gene, which is closely related to the generation of ECMs, downregulated the expression of the MMP-2 and MMP-9 genes, which are closely related to the degradation of ECMs, maintained the dynamic balance of the four types of ECMs, and improved cell viability as well as proliferation, migration and adhesion abilities. CONCLUSIONS: WS can prevent cellular behavioural dysfunction and delay skin ageing by reducing the accumulation of CML, upregulating the expression of the ITGB1 receptor, maintaining the normal function of ECM-integrin receptor interaction and preventing an imbalance between the production and degradation of protein components of ECMs. The findings reported in this study suggest that WS as a CML inhibitor can modulate ECM-integrin homeostasis and has great potential in the field of aging retardation.

Anti-skin ageing activities of rice (Oryza sativa) bran soft and hard waxes in cultured skin cells.

OBJECTIVE: Rice (Oryza sativa) bran waxes, the by-products of rice bran oil manufacturing, are widely used as inactive components in several preparations. Nevertheless, the function of rice bran waxes against skin ageing has never been reported. This study aimed to investigate thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes, including rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes, and the activities against skin ageing in cultured skin cells. METHODS: Thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes were analysed by differential scanning calorimetry and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, respectively. The cytotoxicity assay of waxes was performed in B16F10 melanoma cells, human skin fibroblasts and co-culture cells of HaCaT cells and human skin fibroblasts. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of waxes were evaluated for their activities against skin ageing, including melanogenesis assay, antioxidant activity, collagen content analysis, matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assay and anti-inflammatory activity. RESULTS: Thermal property indicated the endotherm peaks with melting temperatures at 40.89 ± 0.27°C and 69.64 ± 0.34°C for RBS and RBH, respectively. The main fatty acids in RBS were oleic (31.68 ± 0.75%) and linoleic acids (27.19 ± 0.40%), whereas those in RBH were palmitic (36.24 ± 1.08%) and stearic acids (35.21 ± 4.51%). The cytotoxicity assay in single cells and co-culture cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of RBS (0.0001-1 mg/mL) and RBH (0.0001-0.1 mg/mL). The anti-skin ageing activities of 1 mg/mL RBS and 0.1 mg/mL RBH included the melanogenesis inhibition by suppression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 enzymes, the antioxidant activity by cellular protection against cell damage and cell death, the collagen stimulation, the matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 suppression and the anti-inflammation. CONCLUSIONS: The study results suggest that RBS and RBH can potentially be applied as the functional ingredients in formulations against skin ageing as well as provide the superior benefit on skin moisturization.

OBJECTIF: Les cires de son de riz (Oryza sativa) et les sous­produits de la fabrication de l'huile de son de riz sont largement utilisées comme composants inactifs dans plusieurs préparations. Néanmoins, l'effet des cires de son de riz contre le vieillissement de la peau n'a jamais été rapporté. Cette étude visait à étudier les propriétés thermiques et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz, y compris les cires dures et douces de son de riz, et les activités contre le vieillissement de la peau dans les cellules cutanées en culture. MÉTHODES: La propriété thermique et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz ont été analysés par calorimétrie différentielle à balayage et chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée spectrométrie de masse, respectivement. Le dosage de la cytotoxicité des cires a été réalisé sur des cellules de mélanome B16F10, des fibroblastes de peau humaine, et des cellules de co­culture de cellules HaCaT et des fibroblastes de peau humaine. Les concentrations non cytotoxiques des cires ont été évaluées pour leurs activités contre le vieillissement de la peau, y compris l'analyse de la mélanogenèse, l'activité antioxydante, l'analyse de la teneur en collagène, le test de l'inhibiteur de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. RÉSULTATS: La propriété thermique indiquait des pics endothermes avec des températures de fusion à 40,89 ± 0,27 °C et 69,64 ± 0,34 °C pour les cires dures et douces de son de riz, respectivement. Les principaux acides gras des cires douces de son de riz étaient des acides oléiques (31,68 ± 0,75 %) et des acides linoléiques (27,19 ± 0,40 %), tandis que ceux des cires dures de son de riz étaient des acides palmitiques (36,24 ± 1,08 %) et des acides stéariques (35,21 ± 4,51 %). Le dosage de la cytotoxicité dans les cellules individuelles et les cellules de co­culture a montré la non­cytotoxicité des cires douces de son de riz (0,0001 à 1 mg/ml) et des cires dures de son de riz (0,0001 à 0,1 mg/ml). Les activités antivieillissement de la peau de 1 mg/ml de cire douce de son de riz et de 0,1 mg/ml de cire dure de son de riz comprenaient l'inhibition de la mélanogenèse par suppression des enzymes de la tyrosinase et de la protéine liée à la tyrosinase 2, l'activité antioxydante par protection cellulaire contre les dommages et la mort cellulaires, la stimulation du collagène, la suppression de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. CONCLUSIONS: Les résultats de l'étude indiquent que les cires dures et douces de son de riz peuvent potentiellement être appliquées comme ingrédients fonctionnels dans des formulations contre le vieillissement de la peau et fournir un bénéfice supérieur en termes d'hydratation de la peau.

Application of Molecular Dynamics Simulations to Determine Interactions between Canary Seed (Phalaris canariensis L.) Bioactive Peptides and Skin-Aging Enzymes.

Food bioactive peptides are well recognized for their health benefits such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antihypertensive benefits, among others. Their drug-like behavior has led to their potential use in targeting skin-related aging factors like the inhibition of enzymes related with the skin-aging process. In this study, canary seed peptides (CSP) after simulated gastrointestinal digestion (<3 kDa) were fractioned by RP-HPLC and their enzyme-inhibition activity towards elastase and tyrosinase was evaluated in vitro. CSP inhibited elastase (IC50 = 6.2 mg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC50 = 6.1 mg/mL), while the hydrophobic fraction-VI (0.2 mg/mL) showed the highest inhibition towards elastase (93%) and tyrosinase (67%). The peptide fraction with the highest inhibition was further characterized by a multilevel in silico workflow, including physicochemical descriptor calculations, antioxidant activity predictions, and molecular dynamics-ensemble docking towards elastase and tyrosinase. To gain insights into the skin permeation process during molecular dynamics simulations, based on their docking scores, five peptides (GGWH, VPPH, EGLEPNHRVE, FLPH, and RPVNKYTPPQ) were identified to have favorable intermolecular interactions, such as hydrogen bonding of polar residues (W, H, and K) to lipid polar groups and 2-3 Å van der Waals close contact of hydrophobic aliphatic residues (P, V, and L). These interactions can play a critical role for the passive insertion of peptides into stratum corneum model skin-membranes, suggesting a promising application of CSP for skin-aging treatments.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions.

Purpose: This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil. Methods: G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties. Results: G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects. Conclusion: G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Skin microbiome attributes associate with biophysical skin ageing.

Two major arms of skin ageing are changes in the skin's biophysical conditions and alterations in the skin microbiome. This work partitioned both arms to study their interaction in detail. Leveraging the resolution provided by shotgun metagenomics, we explored how skin microbial species, strains and gene content interact with the biophysical traits of the skin during ageing. With a dataset well-controlled for confounding factors, we found that skin biophysical traits, especially the collagen diffusion coefficient, are associated with the composition and the functional potential of the skin microbiome, including the abundance of bacterial strains found in nosocomial infections and the abundance of antibiotic resistance genes. Our findings reveal important associations between skin biophysical features and ageing-related changes in the skin microbiome and generate testable hypotheses for the mechanisms of such associations.

Skin Ageing: A Progressive, Multi-Factorial Condition Demanding an Integrated, Multilayer-Targeted Remedy.

Of the human organs, skin is the most visible one that displays the manifestations of ageing. It has a very intricate microanatomical structure and performs several key physiological functions. The pathophysiology of cutaneous ageing is characterized by deterioration of structural stability and functional integrity, implying a continuous reduction in maximal function and reserve capacity, as a result of the accumulating damage due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Elimination of unfavorable expressions associated with facial and cutaneous ageing is the key patient demand in aesthetic dermatology. Even though the progress has been made in nonsurgical therapies like fillers and lasers, non-invasive interventions by using skin care products designed for rejuvenation at an early stage are the most popular and accessible solution among people. In this review, we have scrutinized the ageing-associated cutaneous changes at molecular, cellular and tissue levels. To optimize the ageing process towards a healthy skin, we propose an integrated, multilayer-targeted intervention, which involves both topical application of anti-ageing formulations from outside and oral supplementation from inside. Additionally, several promising naturally derived ingredients are reviewed from an anti-aging perspective. Most of them possess various bioactivities and may contribute to the development of the mentioned anti-ageing remedy.

Investigation on the Biological Safety and Activity of a Gluconolactone-Based Lotion for Dermocosmetic Application.

(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are formulas enriched with active ingredients that exert efficacy on different skin molecular targets. (2) Methods: Cell viability and the absence of potential irritant risk were evaluated on keratinocytes (HaCaT), fibroblasts (NHDF), adipocytes (3T3-L1), sebocytes (PCi-SEB_CAU) and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), respectively. Several treatments were performed to evaluate the ability of the lotion to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and reduce the number of senescent cells following UVB stimulation. In addition, the modulation of genes involved in the production, storage and accumulation of sebum were investigated. (3) Results: The results obtained demonstrated the biosafety of the formula in all cell lines tested. The 24-h treatment with non-cytotoxic concentrations determined an increase in the expression of the collagen (COL1A1), elastin (ELN) and involucrin (IVL) genes, while a reduction of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-gamma (PPARγ) gene expression and a reduction of SA-ßgal-positive cells were found. Moreover, the treatment did not interfere with normal steroid 5-alpha reductase (5RDA3) gene expression levels. (4) Conclusions: Data collected demonstrated the biosafety of the lotion, the non-comedogenic property and a multi targets anti-aging effect. In particular, data collected on the booster lotion make it a valid way to counteract the pore dilatation aging related.

Male pattern hair loss: Can developmental origins explain the pattern?

Male pattern hair loss (MPHL), also referred to as male androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of non-scarring progressive hair loss, with 80% of men suffering from this condition in their lifetime. In MPHL, the hair line recedes to a specific part of the scalp which cannot be accurately predicted. Hair is lost from the front, vertex, and the crown, yet temporal and occipital follicles remain. The visual effect of hair loss is due to hair follicle miniaturisation, where terminal hair follicles become dimensionally smaller. Miniaturisation is also characterised by a shortening of the growth phase of the hair cycle (anagen), and a prolongation of the dormant phase (kenogen). Together, these changes result in the production of thinner and shorter hair fibres, referred to as miniaturised or vellus hairs. It remains unclear why miniaturisation occurs in this specific pattern, with frontal follicles being susceptible while occipital follicles remain in a terminal state. One main factor we believe to be at play, which will be discussed in this viewpoint, is the developmental origin of the skin and hair follicle dermis on different regions of the scalp.

Sex-specific differences in oxidative stress markers and collagen expression in perioral skin wrinkling.

Wrinkling is the hallmark of skin ageing. We previously reported that perioral wrinkling is more severe in females; however, the molecular basis is unknown. This study assessed sex differences in the molecular expression of key ageing regulators in perioral skin. Twelve subjects (n = 6 male/female) were enrolled in this cross-sectional study and biopsies were taken from the perioral and periocular regions. RNA expression of collagen I, collagen III, cysteine-rich angiogenic inducer 61 (CYR61) and insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1) was assessed by qPCR. There was no difference between females' and males' Griffith's grades (6 and 5.67, respectively, p = 0.092) or periocular wrinkling grades (3.2 and 2.6, p = 0.421), but females had more severe perioral wrinkling grades than males (6.2 and 2.8, p = 0.020). Females not only expressed significantly more CYR61 (p = 0.018) in the perioral region than malesm but also expressed more collagen III (p = 0.016). There was no difference in collagen I (p = 0.115) or IGF-1 (p = 0.124) expression in the perioral region between sexes. In the periocular region, there were no significant differences between sexes in the expression of all four markers. The significant molecular differences in the perioral region between the sexes may contribute to the greater perioral skin wrinkling seen clinically in females.

Quantitative morphometric analysis of intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III.

Skin ageing is an intricate physiological process affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. There is a demand to understand how the skin changes with age and photoexposure in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types I-III due to accelerated photoageing and the risk of cutaneous malignancies. To assess the structural impact of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, we analysed 14 skin parameters from the photoprotected buttock and photoexposed dorsal forearm of young and ageing females with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III (n = 20) using histomorphic techniques. Whilst the minimum viable epidermis (Emin ) remained constant (Q > 0.05), the maximum viable epidermis (Emax ) was decreased by both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.05), which suggests that differences in epidermal thickness are attributed to changes in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Changes in Emax were not affected by epidermal cell proliferation. For the first time, we investigated the basal keratinocyte morphology with age and photoexposure. Basal keratinocytes had an increased cell size, cellular height and a more columnar phenotype in photoexposed sites of young and ageing individuals (Q ≤ 0.05), however no significant differences were observed with age. Some of the most striking changes were observed in the DEJ, and a decrease in the interdigitation index was observed with both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.001), accompanied by a decreased height of rête ridges and dermal papilla. Interestingly, young photoexposed skin was comparable to ageing skin across many parameters, and we hypothesise that this is due to accelerated photoageing. This study highlights the importance of skin care education and photoprotection from an early age.

A Proteome-Centric View of Ageing, including that of the Skin and Age-Related Diseases: Considerations of a Common Cause and Common Preventative and Curative Interventions.

The proteome comprises all proteins of a cell or organism. To carry their catalytic and structure-related functions, proteins must be correctly folded into their unique native three-dimensional structures. Common oxidative protein damage affects their functionality by impairing their catalytic and interactive specificities. Oxidative damage occurs preferentially to misfolded proteins and fixes the misfolded state. This review provides an overview of the mechanism and consequences of oxidative proteome damage - specifically irreversible protein carbonylation - in relation to ageing, including that of the skin as well as to age-related degeneration and diseases (ARDD) and their mitigation. A literature review of published manuscripts, available from PubMed, focusing on proteome, proteostasis, proteotoxicity, protein carbonylation, related inflammatory diseases, ARDD and the impact of the damaged proteome on ageing. During ageing, proteome damage, especially protein carbonylation, correlates with biological age. Carbonylated proteins form aggregates which can be considered as markers and accelerators of ageing and are common markers of most ARDD. Protein carbonylation leads to general ageing of the organism and organs including the skin and potentially to diseases including Alzheimer and Parkinson disease, diabetes, psoriasis, and skin cancer. Current research is promising and may open new therapeutic approaches and perspectives by targeting proteome protection as an age and ARDD management strategy.