Large-Scale Isolation of Milk Exosomes for Skincare.

Exosomes are small membrane vesicles in a cell culture. They are secreted by most cells and originate from the endosomal pathway. A variety of proteins, lipids, and genetic materials have been shown to be carried by exosomes. Once taken up by neighboring or distant cells, the bioactive compounds in exosomes can regulate the condition of recipient cells. Typically, producing exosomes in large quantities requires cell culture, resulting in high production costs. However, exosomes are abundant in milk and can be isolated on a large scale at a low cost. In our study, we found that milk exosomes can promote the synthesis and reconstruction of stratum corneum lipids, enhance skin barrier function, and provide greater protection for the skin. Furthermore, milk exosomes have anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce skin irritation, redness, and other symptoms, giving immediate relief. They also exhibit antioxidant activity, which helps neutralize free radicals and slows down the skin aging process. Additionally, milk exosomes inhibit melanin production, aiding in skin whitening. Ongoing research has uncovered the benefits of milk exosomes for skin improvement and their application in cosmetics, skin healthcare, and other fields, and these applications are continuing to expand.

Comparative study on metabolite variations of two rose teas by plant metabolomics and revealing their skin-whitening candidates by spectrum-effect relationship analysis.

INTRODUCTION: Rosa rugosa var. plena Rehd (CBR) and Rosa chinensis cv. "JinBian" (JBR) are two common species used in rose tea among different original species. CBR, the officially documented original plant of the rose species for food and medicinal purposes, is more costly than JBR. With increasing demand for different rose teas, it is meaningful to compare the chemical constituents for their quality control and reveal their skin-whitening components that will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry. OBJECTIVE: This study aims to reveal the chemical variances between CBR and JBR and determine their skin-whitening components. METHODOLOGY: A strategy obtained by combining MS-based plant-metabolomics with spectrum-effect relationship analysis has been proposed for unveiling chemical differences between CBR and JBR and further exploring their potential skin-whitening components. RESULTS: A total of 2030 metabolites were found that revealed considerable differences between CBR and JBR. The results of bioactivity assay demonstrated that JBR exhibited stronger tyrosinase inhibition activity than CBR. Six potential skin-whitening compounds (di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, spiraeoside, quinic acid, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose) were discovered as potential tyrosinase inhibitors, via spectrum-effect relationship analysis. This is the first time that di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose have been reported with tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, molecular docking analysis was used to reveal the inhibition mechanism of these compounds toward tyrosinase. CONCLUSION: The finding of this study will be of great importance for the quality control of the two types of rose teas, and the revealed active ingredients will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry.

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Takifugu flavidus Muscle Hydrolysate in B16F10 Melanoma Cells and Zebrafish.

Abnormal melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, is an important therapeutic target for these disorders. We investigated the TYR inhibitory activity of hydrolysates extracted from the muscle tissue of Takifugu flavidus (TFMH). We used computer-aided virtual screening to identify a novel peptide that potently inhibited melanin synthesis, simulated its binding mode to TYR, and evaluated functional efficacy in vitro and in vivo. TFMH inhibited the diphenolase activities of mTYR, reducing TYR substrate binding activity and effectively inhibiting melanin synthesis. TFMH indirectly reduced cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation in vitro by downregulating melanocortin 1 receptor expression, thereby inhibiting expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, further decreasing TYR, tyrosinase related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase expression and ultimately impeding melanin synthesis. In zebrafish, TFMH significantly reduced black spot formation. TFMH (200 µg/mL) decreased zebrafish TYR activity by 43% and melanin content by 52%. Molecular dynamics simulations over 100 ns revealed that the FGFRSP (T-6) peptide stably binds mushroom TYR via hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions. T-6 (400 µmol/L) reduced melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells by 71% and TYR activity by 79%. In zebrafish, T-6 (200 µmol/L) inhibited melanin production by 64%. TFMH and T-6 exhibit good potential for the development of natural skin-whitening cosmetic products.

The Effect of α-Arbutin on UVB-Induced Damage and Its Underlying Mechanism.

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1ß, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

Characterization and applications of biomacromolecule structurally similar to glycogen as a dispersion aid and skin protection agent.

Glycogen is a naturally occurring or metabolically synthesized biological macromolecule found in a wide range of living organisms, including animals, microorganisms, and even plants. However, naturally sourced glycogen poses challenges for industrial use. This study focused on a biological macromolecule referred to as glycogen-like particles (GLPs), detailing the production methods and biological properties of these particles. In vitro enzymatic production of GLPs was successfully achieved. GLPs synthesized through a simultaneous enzymatic reaction using sucrose had significant changes in their structure and functionality based on the branching enzyme (BE) to amylosucrase (ASase) ratio. As this ratio increased, the GLPs developed higher molecular weights and greater density, solubility, and branching degree while reducing size and turbidity. Structural changes in these enzymes were not observed beyond a critical BE/ASase ratio. Uniformly dispersed curcumin powder was generated in 50 % (w/v) aqueous GLP solution, and the GLPs were non-toxic to human skin keratinocytes at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL. GLPs with lower branching inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, while those with more long chains displayed effective UV-blocking. By manipulating the BE/ASase ratio, GLPs were shown to display diverse chemical structures and physical characteristics, suggesting their potential application in the food and cosmetics industries.

The potential cutaneous benefits of edible bird's nest.

Edible bird's nest (EBN) is composed of the solidified saliva of swiftlet birds. EBN has been extremely popular in Asian culture for centuries. They are often consumed as a delicacy in the form of bird's nest soup and are believed to have numerous skin benefits. In light of EBN's growing popularity and significant cultural importance, we aim provide a comprehensive review of EBN's potential dermatologic benefits and role in photoaging, anti-inflammation, wound healing, skin barrier enhancement, and skin whitening. While in vitro, in vivo, and preliminary clinical trial results are promising, there is a need for future human clinical research to further validate these findings and establish EBN's efficacy and safety for dermatologic applications.

Unlocking the potential of cosmetic dermal delivery with ethosomes: A comprehensive review.

BACKGROUND: In a world where hair loss, acne, and skin whitening are common concerns, ethosomes emerge as a captivating breakthrough in cosmetic drug delivery. METHOD: This review provides a comprehensive overview of the ethosomal system and assesses its potential as an effective nanocarrier for delivering active ingredients to the skin. The focus is on exploring their applications in various pathologies, particularly skin disorders such as acne, hair loss, and skin pigmentation. RESULTS: Ethosomes are a novel type of vesicular nanocarrier composed of high concentrations of ethanol (20-45%) and phospholipids. Their unique structure and composition make them an ideal choice for transporting active ingredients through the skin, offering targeted and effective treatment. The inclusion of ethanol in ethosomes' composition gives them distinctive properties, including flexibility, deformability, and stability, facilitating deep penetration into the skin and enhancing medication deposition. Moreover, ethosomes improved theoverall drug-loading capacity, and specificity of target treatment CONCLUSION: Ethosomes represent a unique and suitable approach for delivering active cosmetic ingredients in the treatment of hair loss, acne, and skin whitening, presenting a versatile alternative to traditional dermal delivery systems. Despite the challenges associated with their complex preparation and sensitivity to temperature and humidity, the remarkable potential benefits of ethosomes cannot be ignored. Further research is crucial to unlock their full potential, understand their limitations, and refine their formulations and administration methods. Ethosomes hold the promise of transforming the way we address these cosmetic concerns, offering an exciting glimpse into the future of advanced skincare solutions.

Chemical Composition and Skin-Whitening Activities of Siegesbeckia glabrescens Makino Flower Absolute in Melanocytes.

Siegesbeckia glabrescens Makino (SGM) has been traditionally used to treat many disorders, including rheumatoid arthritis, hypertension, and acute hepatitis. However, the biological activities of SGM in skin remain unclear. The present study explored the effects of SGM flower absolute (SGMFAb) on skin-whitening-linked biological activities in B16BL6 cells. SGMFAb was extracted using hexane, and its composition was analyzed through gas chromatography/mass spectrometry analysis. The biological effects of SGMFAb on B16BL6 melanoma cells were detected via WST and BrdU incorporation assays, ELISA, and immunoblotting. SGMFAb contained 14 compounds. In addition, SGMFAb was noncytotoxic, attenuated the serum-induced proliferation of, and inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-exposed B16BL6 cells. SGMFAb also reduced the expressions of MITF (microphthalmia-associated transcription factor), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 in α-MSH-exposed B16BL6 cells. Moreover, SGMFAb downregulated the activation of p38 MAPK, ERK1/2, and JNK in α-MSH-stimulated B16BL6 cells. In addition, SGMFAb reduced the expressions of three melanosome-transport-participating proteins (myosin Va, melanophilin, and Rab27a) in α-MSH-stimulated B16BL6 cells. These results indicate that SGMFAb positively influences skin whitening activities by inhibiting melanogenesis and melanosome-transport-related events in B16BL6 cells, and suggest that SGMFAb is a promising material for developing functional skin whitening agents.

Characterisation and skin protection activities of polysaccharides from Schnabelia terniflora.

The bioactivities of crude polysaccharides from leaves (L-Ps) and flowers (F-Ps) of Schnabelia terniflora (Maxim.) P. D. Cantino were studied, and the characteristics of purified fractions were analysed by HPLC, HP-GPC and NMR. L-Ps exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity (IC50 value of 251.53 ± 4.62 µg/mL) and tyrosinase inhibition (IC50 value of 163.52 ± 2.59 µg/mL). However, the maximum moisture absorption (74.67 ± 1.53%) and retention (68.00 ± 3.61%) abilities were observed in F-Ps. Two main fractions separated by DEAE-Sepharose fast flow column from L-Ps were eluted with 0.1 and 0.3 M NaCl, while one main fraction from F-Ps was eluted with 0.1 M NaCl. Purified fractions were obviously different in monosaccharide composition, molecular weight and 1H NMR and 13C NMR spectra. Therefore, the current manuscript can provide an important evidence for the potential development of L-Ps and F-Ps as promising ingredients in cosmetics industry.

Peptide OA-VI12 restrains melanogenesis in B16 cells and C57B/6 mouse ear skin via the miR-122-5p/Mitf/Tyr axis.

Excessive melanogenesis leads to hyperpigmentation, which is one of the common skin conditions in humans. Existing whitening cosmetics cannot meet market needs due to their inherent limitations. Thus, the development of novel skin-whitening agents continues to be a challenge. The peptide OA-VI12 from the skin of amphibians at high altitude has attracted attention due to its remarkable anti light damage activity. However, whether OA-VI12 has the skin-whitening effect of inhibiting melanogenesis is still. Mouse melanoma cells (B16) were used to study the effect of OA-VI12 on cell viability and melanin content. The pigmentation model of C57B/6 mouse ear skin was induced by UVB and treated with OA-VI12. Melanin staining was used to observe the degree of pigmentation. MicroRNA sequencing, quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR), immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot were used to detect the change of factor expression. Double luciferase gene report experiment was used to prove the regulatory relationship between miRNA and target genes. OA-VI12 has no effect on the viability of B16 cells in the concentration range of 1-100 µM and significantly inhibits the melanin content of B16 cells. Topical application of OA-VI12, which exerted transdermal potency, prevented UVB-induced pigmentation of ear skin. MicroRNA sequencing and double luciferase reporter analysis results showed that miR-122-5p, which directly regulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf), had significantly different expression before and after treatment with OA-VI12. Mitf is a simple helix loop and leucine zipper transcription factor that regulates tyrosinase (Tyr) expression by binding to the M-box promoter element of Tyr. qRT-PCR, immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot showed that OA-VI12 up-regulated the expression of miR-122-5p and inhibited the expression of Mitf and Tyr. The effects of OA-VI12 on melanogenesis inhibition in vitro and in vivo may involve the miR-122-5p/Mitf/tyr axis. OA-VI12 represents the first report on a natural amphibian-derived peptide with skin-whitening capacity and the first report of miR-122-5p as a target for regulating melanogenesis, thereby demonstrating its potential as a novel skin-whitening agent and highlighting amphibian-derived peptides as an underdeveloped resource.

Potent Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of Butein and Homobutein Probed by Molecular Kinetic and Mechanistic Studies.

Butein (BU) and homobutein (HB) are bioactive polyhydroxylated chalcones widespread in dietary plants, whose antioxidant properties require mechanistic definition. They were investigated by inhibited autoxidation kinetic studies of methyl linoleate in Triton™ X-100 micelles at pH 7.4, 37 °C. Butein had kinh = (3.0 ± 0.9) × 104 M-1s-1 showing a chain-breaking mechanism with higher antioxidant activity than reference α-tocopherol (kinh = (2.2 ± 0.6) × 104 M-1s-1), particularly concerning the stoichiometry or peroxyl radical trapping n = 3.7 ± 1.1 vs. 2.0 for tocopherol. Homobutein had kinh = (2.8 ± 0.9) × 103 M-1s-1, pairing the relative BDEOH measured by radical equilibration EPR as 78.4 ± 0.2 kcal/mol for BU and estimated as 82.6 kcal/mol for HB. The inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) by HB and BU was also investigated. BU gives a reversible uncompetitive inhibition of monophenolase reaction with KI' = 9.95 ± 2.69 µM and mixed-type diphenolase inhibition with KI = 3.30 ± 0.75 µM and KI' = 18.75 ± 5.15 µM, while HB was nearly competitive toward both mono- and diphenolase with respective KI of 2.76 ± 0.70 µM and 2.50 ± 1.56 µM. IC50 values (monophenolase/diphenolase at 1 mM substrate) were 10.88 ± 2.19 µM/15.20 ± 1.25 µM, 14.78 ± 1.05 µM/12.36 ± 2.00 µM, and 33.14 ± 5.03 µM/18.27 ± 3.42 µM, respectively, for BU, HB, and reference kojic acid. Molecular docking studies confirmed the mechanism. Results indicate very potent antioxidant activity for BU and potent anti-tyrosinase activity for both chalcones, which is discussed in relation to bioactivity toward protection from skin disorders and food oxidative spoilage.

Evaluation of the skin whitening and antioxidant activity of Myracrodruon urundeuva extract (aroeira-do-sertão).

Myracrodruon urundeuva, popularly known as 'aroeira-do-sertão', a large tree, with a tall trunk. Belonging to the Anacardiaceae family, it occurs in the 'caatinga' and dry forests of Brazil, from Ceará to the states of Paraná and Mato Grosso do Sul. The present study aimed to analyse the whitening and antioxidant activities of the aqueous extract of the leaves of Myracrodruon urundeuva (AELMU). Inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, as well as its copper chelating capacity and antioxidant effect were evaluated. The AELMU (at 2000 µg/mL) showed excellent inhibitory action (83.76%) on tyrosinase by chelating the copper ion while kojic acid at the same concentration inhibited 97.81%. Moreover, the extract displayed important antioxidant activity (inhibited 76,46% of the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical - DPPH; 49,59% of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances and 51,07% of the hydroxyl radical). Thus, the extract under study is promising for use in cosmetics, given its multifactorial action.

Catechol-mimicking transition-state analogues as non-oxidizable inhibitors of tyrosinases.

Tyrosinases are copper-containing metalloenzymes involved in several processes in both mammals, insects, bacteria, fungi and plants. Their phenol oxidation properties are especially responsible for human melanogenesis, potentially leading to abnormal pigmentation, and for postharvest vegetable tissue browning. Thus, targeting tyrosinases attracts interest for applications both in dermocosmetic and agrofood fields. However, a large part of the literature about tyrosinase inhibitors is dedicated to the report of copper-interacting phenolic compounds, that are more likely alternative substrates leading to undesirable toxic quinones production. To circumvent this issue, the use of catechol-mimicking copper-chelating groups that are analogues of the tyrosinase oxidation transition state appears as a valuable strategy. Relying on several non-oxidizable pyridinone, pyrone or tropolone moieties, innovative inhibitors were developed, especially within the past decade, and the best reported analogues reached IC50 values in the nanomolar range. Herein, we review the design, the activity against several tyrosinases, and the proposed binding modes of reported catechol-mimicking, non-oxidizable molecules, in light of recent structural data.

Enzyme-treated caviar extract ameliorates melanogenesis in UVB-induced SKH-1 hairless mice.

This study investigated anti-melanogenesis effects of enzyme-treated caviar extract (CV) in murine melanoma B16F10 cells and SKH-1 hairless mice. To induce melanin production in vitro and in vivo studies, B16F10 cells were treated with 3-Isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX), and SKH-1 hairless mice were irradiated with UVB, respectively. The expression of melnogenesis-related factors and signaling molecules were analyzed by ELISA and western blotting. 50, 100 and 200 µg/mL of CV significantly decreased the melanin contents and the activities of tyrosinase, nitric oxide, glutathione, and cAMP, melanogenesis factor, in B16F10 cells treated IBMX. In addition, CV significantly suppressed the expression of melanogenesis proteins such as pPKA, pCREB, MITF, TRP-1and TRP-2. Similarly, results of oral administration of CV (20, 50 and 100 mg/kg) for 8 weeks in UVB-Induced SKH-1 hairless mice, the expression of melanogenesis-related factor tyrosinase, nitric oxide, and cAMP and protein expression of pPKA, pCREBa, MITF, TRP-1and TRP-2 was significantly reduced. In particular, 100 mg/kg of CV exhibited an excellent effect similar to control group. Therefore, we suggest the possibility of developing CV as a food supplement having skin whitening effects by ameliorating melanogenesis.

Topical Application of No-Ozone Cold Plasma in Combination with Vitamin C Reduced Skin Redness and Pigmentation of UV-Irradiated Mice.

Ultraviolet (UV) is the main cause of sunburn on the skin as it induces erythema and accelerates pigmentation. Vitamin C is one of the most frequently used compounds to reduce UV-induced skin pigmentation, but it has limitations in absorption through the skin. In this study, we tested whether a no-ozone cold plasma (NCP) treatment can improve UV-irradiated skin by helping the action of Vitamin C. For this, among five groups of HRM-2 hairless mice, four groups of mice were subjected to UVB irradiation, and three groups of UVB-treated mice were treated with NCP, Vitamin C, and NCP + Vitamin C, respectively. For evaluating the effect of each treatment, the melanin and erythema index was measured during animal experiments. Histological changes were monitored by performing H&E and MTS and IHC against tyrosinase and melanin. As a result, the naturally recovered mice showed a 28-point decrease in the melanin index, whereas a decrease of around 88, 74.3, and 106 points was detected in NCP-, Vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice, respectively. Likewise, only a 39-point reduction in the erythema index was monitored in naturally recovered mice, but the NCP-, vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice showed a 87.3-, 77-, and 111-point reduction, respectively. Interestingly, the skin tissues of the mice treated with NCP in combination with Vitamin C mostly recovered from UVB-induced damage. Altogether, this study elucidated the beneficial effect of the treatment of NCP in combination with Vitamin C on the UVB-irradiated skin, which might be helpful for treating sunburn on the skin.

Biotransformation of ginsenoside Rb1 and Rd to four rare ginsenosides and evaluation of their anti-melanogenic effects.

Improving physiological activity of primary ginsenosides through biotransformation is of great significance for food applications. In this study, gynostapenoside XVII, gynostapenoside LXXV, ginsenoside F2, and ginsenoside CK were obtained by enzymolysis of an accessible extract composed of ginsenoside Rb1 and Rd. Their effects on melanin content and tyrosinase activity were compared in vitro, and molecular docking simulation was employed to elucidate the interaction between tyrosinase and individual saponin. The results indicated that four rare ginsenosides decreased tyrosinase activity, melanin content and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression level, more greatly than their primary ginsenosides, and they were more readily to bind with ASP10 and GLY68 at active site of tyrosinase to inhibit tyrosinase activity as well. These findings suggested that the rare ginsenosides obtained by enzymolysis had excellent anti-melanogenic effect, which could expand the application of ginsenosides in the field of functional foods and health supplements.

Photoprotection and Antiaging Activity of Extracts from Honeybush (Cyclopia sp.)-In Vitro Wound Healing and Inhibition of the Skin Extracellular Matrix Enzymes: Tyrosinase, Collagenase, Elastase and Hyaluronidase.

Cyclopia sp. (honeybush) is an African shrub known as a rich source of polyphenols. The biological effects of fermented honeybush extracts were investigated. The influence of honeybush extracts on extracellular matrix (ECM) enzymes responsible for the skin malfunction and aging process-collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase-was analysed. The research also included assessment of the in vitro photoprotection efficiency of honeybush extracts and their contribution to the wound healing process. Antioxidant properties of the prepared extracts were evaluated, and quantification of the main compounds in the extracts was achieved. The research showed that the analysed extracts had a significant ability to inhibit collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase and a weak influence on elastase activity. Tyrosinase was inhibited effectively by honeybush acetone (IC50 26.18 ± 1.45 µg/mL), ethanol (IC50 45.99 ± 0.76 µg/mL) and water (IC50 67.42 ± 1.75 µg/mL) extracts. Significant hyaluronidase inhibition was observed for ethanol, acetone and water extracts (IC50 were 10.99 ± 1.56, 13.21 ± 0.39 and 14.62 ± 0.21µg/mL, respectively). Collagenase activity was inhibited effectively by honeybush acetone extract (IC50 42.5 ± 1.05 µg/mL). The wound healing properties of the honeybush extracts, estimated in vitro in human keratinocytes (HaCaTs), were indicated for water and ethanol extracts. In vitro sun protection factor (SPF in vitro) showed medium photoprotection potential for all the honeybush extracts. The quantity of polyphenolic compounds was estimated with the use of high-performance liquid chromatography equipped with diode-array detection (HPLC-DAD), indicating the highest mangiferin contents in ethanol, acetone and n-butanol extracts, while in the water extract hesperidin was the dominant compound. The antioxidant properties of the honeybush extracts were estimated with FRAP (2,4,6-Tris(2-pyridyl)-s-triazine) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) tests, indicating their strong antioxidant activity, similar to ascorbic acid for the acetone extract in both tests. The wound healing abilities, estimation of SPF in vitro and the direct influence on selected enzymes (elastase, tyrosinase, collagenase and hyaluronidase) of the tested honeybush extracts were analysed for the first time, indicating a high potential of these well-known herbal tea for antiaging, anti-inflammation, regeneration and protection of the skin.

Awareness, Perception, and Utilization of Skin Lightening Agents Among Females of Asmara, Eritrea: A Cross-Sectional Study.

Background: The use of skin lightening agents (SLAs) is common among African females with black skin color. Although they usually contain harmful ingredients and can cause complications, their use remains to be a common practice. This study was conducted to assess the awareness, perception, and utilization of SLAs among females residing in Asmara, Eritrea. Methods: A cross-sectional analytical study using a quantitative approach was conducted in representative samples of all beauty salons available in Asmara from May to July, 2021. The study participants were selected using two-stage stratified cluster sampling and data were collected through a face-to-face interview using a structured questionnaire. Descriptive analysis and logistic regression, at bivariate and multivariate level, were performed. Results: The study enrolled 721 females and 684 completed the study. The majority of the respondents had the perception that SLAs can make someone light colored (84.4%), look beautiful (67.8%), trendy and fashionable (55.0%), and white skin is more attractive than dark skin (58.8%). About two-thirds (64.2%) reported they had previously used SLAs, mainly influenced by friends (60.5%). Approximately 46% were current users, while 53.6% stopped it mainly due to adverse effects, fear of adverse effects and ineffectiveness. A total of 150 products including natural ingredients were mentioned being used to lighten the skin, and Aneeza, Natural face, and Betamethasone containing brands were among the top used products. The occurrence of at least one adverse effect due to the use of SLAs was 43.7%, while 66.5% were satisfied with the use of SLAs. Additionally, employment status and perception of SLAs were found to be determinants of being a current user. Conclusion: Utilization of SLAs, including products containing harmful or medicinal ingredients, was prevalent among the females of Asmara city. Thus, coordinated regulatory interventions are recommended to tackle unsafe practices and raise public awareness to promote the safe use of cosmetics.

Z-Isomers of lycopene and ß-carotene exhibit greater skin-quality improving action than their all-E-isomers.

Although most carotenoids in fruits and vegetables exist as the all-E-isomers, several carotenoids accumulated in the skin exist as the Z-isomers. However, the differences in the skin-related biological activities of the all-E- and Z-isomers are largely unknown. This study investigated the effects of E/Z-isomer ratios of lycopene and ß-carotene on their ultraviolet (UV)-light-shielding ability and skin-related biological activities (i.e., antioxidant, skin anti-aging, and skin-whitening activities). Z-Isomer-rich lycopene and ß-carotene were prepared by thermal isomerization of their all-E-isomers, i.e., the total Z-isomer ratios of lycopene and ß-carotene were 97.7 and 89.0%, respectively. The Z-isomers exhibited higher UV-A- and UV-B-shielding abilities and greater skin-related biological activities (e.g., anti-elastase activity, hyaluronic acid production-promoting effect, anti-melanin formation activity, and inhibitory activity for melanin precursor darkening) in several assays than the all-E-isomers. These findings may contribute to understanding the significance of carotenoid Z-isomers in the skin and developing food ingredients that promote skin health.