Electroencephalography as an objective method for assessing subjective emotions during the application of cream.

OBJECTIVE: To compare emotional responses elicited by four cosmetic products on different sensory modalities (smell, visual, and touch), and analyze the link between objective instrumental analysis results and subjective evaluation of participants occurring within dimensional valence-arousal model of emotions. METHODS: In this study, four cream products exhibiting variations in olfactory perception, visual appearance and perception usability were selected. Electroencephalography (EEG) and a subjective emotion scale were used to assess participants' emotional responses during the sensory experience of utilizing the creams. RESULTS: The study revealed that the objective emotional valence and arousal of different cream products exhibited certain variations at distinct stages of usage. The trend of valence differences induced by different products measured by EEG at the same stage was almost as same as measured by subjective evaluation. The correspondence between the valence measured by EEG closely approximated that obtained through subjective evaluation across various products at distinct stages of usage. These findings demonstrate a significant correlation between EEG-based valence and subjective valence, however, no such relationship was observed for arousal. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the feasibility of using EEG as a method to assess emotions elicited by various stages of cosmetics application, including smelling, looking, rubbing, and afterfeel. This technique serves as a valuable supplement to traditional methods for examining emotional responses by providing more objective evidence.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae.

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity.

The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 µg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 µg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

Enzymes for dermatological use.

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

The pleiotropic role of Salinicoccus bacteria in enhancing ROS homeostasis and detoxification metabolism in soybean and oat to cope with pollution of triclosan.

Triclosan has been extensively used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. However, its accumulation represents a real environmental threat. Thus, its phytotoxic impact needs more consideration. Our study was conducted to highlight the phytotoxic effect of triclosan on the growth, ROS homeostasis, and detoxification metabolism of two different plant species i.e., legumes (Glycine max) and grass (Avena sativa). Moreover, we investigated the potentiality of plant growth-promoting bacteria (ST-PGPB) in mitigating the phytotoxic effect of triclosan. Triclosan induced biomass (fresh and dry weights) reduction in both plants, but to a higher extent in oats. This decline was associated with a noticeable increment in the oxidative damage (e.g., MDA and H2O2) and detoxification metabolites such as metallothionein (MTC), phytochelatins (PCs), and glutathione-S-transferase (GST). This elevation was associated with a remarkable reduction in both enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants. On the other hand, the bioactive strain of ST-PGPB, Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 significantly alleviated the harmful effect of triclosan on both soybean and oat plants by enhancing their biomass, photosynthesis, as well as levels of minerals (K, Ca, P, Mn, and Zn). In parallel, a striking quenching in oxidative damage and an obvious improvement in non-enzymatic (polyphenols, tocopherols, flavonoids) and enzymatic antioxidants were observed. Furthermore, Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 augmented the detoxification metabolism by enhancing the levels of phytochelatins, metallothionein, and glutathione-S-transferase (GST) activity in a species-specific manner which is more apparent in soybean rather than in oat plants. To this end, stress mitigating impact of Salinicoccus sp. JzA1 provides a basis to improve the resilience of crop species under cosmetics and personal care products toxicity.

The impacts of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in facial cleanser on facial skin microbiome and lipidome.

BACKGROUND: The human skin microbiome and lipidome are essential for skin homeostasis and barrier function, and have become a focus in both dermatological and cosmetic fields. However, the influence of surfactants commonly used in cosmetic products on the skin resident microbiome and lipidome remains poorly characterized. METHODS: We conducted self-control experiments to systematically study the effects of surfactant (sodium lauroyl sarcosinate [SLS]) on facial skin. Wrinkles, pores, porphyrins, and superficial lipids were examined to evaluate the biophysical state of skin. Quantitative real-time PCR was used to detect the numbers of bacteria and fungi. The diversity and structure of prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiomes were assessed using 16S rDNA and ITS amplicon sequencing, respectively. Moreover, 22 lipids were identified to evaluate lipidome variations. SPSS software was used for statistical analysis. RESULTS: SLS in facial cleanser did not extensively influence skin biophysical parameters, but caused a decrease in porphyrin. After using the SLS-added facial cleanser for 3 weeks, the alpha diversity of the prokaryotic microbial community decreased significantly, while the eukaryotic microbial community showed a continuous downward trend but no statistically significant. A shift in the structure of prokaryotic microbiome was observed as a result of SLS exposure, mainly reflected by the increase in Acinetobacter, Escherichia-Shigella, Streptococcus, and Ralstonia, while the SLS had little effect on the structure of the eukaryotic microbiome. Furthermore, SLS exposure had a great impact on skin lipidome, mainly manifested by the increase of phosphatidylglycerol (PG) and phosphatidylcholine (PC), and the decrease of ceramides. Spearman's correlations analysis showed that Escherichia-Shigella, Pseudomonas, and Acinetobacter are positively correlated with PG and PC; however, the correlation is not statistically significant. CONCLUSION: In this study, we found the SLS in facial cleanser primarily affected lipidome and the prokaryotic microbiome of facial skin. These findings are useful for reminding us to be vigilant about the ingredients in personal care products, even the common ingredients, and designing effective formulations for repairing ecological balance of skin.

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis.

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

L'exposition chronique aux rayons ultraviolets (UV) du soleil accélère le vieillissement cutané, qui provoque un épaississement et un assèchement de la peau et la rend plus lâche. La présence de rides profondes induites par la rupture de la barrière cutanée en constitue l'un des symptômes les plus manifestes. Lors d'études précédentes, nous nous sommes rendu compte que l'extrait de graines de Phaseolus angularis (PASE) inhibait efficacement le vieillissement de la peau en assurant la protection anti­UVB des cellules HaCaT grâce à la suppression des lésions cutanées. Cependant, son efficacité n'a pas été évaluée lors d'essais cliniques à ce jour. L'efficacité de la crème PASE a d'abord été testée sur le modèle de peau artificielle, sur laquelle elle a fait augmenter les taux de filaggrine et assuré une défense contre les lésions cutanées. Sur la base de ces résultats, dans cette étude unicentrique, randomisée et en double aveugle, nous avons étudié l'effet anti­âge de la PASE chez l'humain au niveau des rides proches de l'œil. Pour ces 21 femmes adultes en bonne santé âgées de 30 à 59 ans, une crème PASE a été appliquée sur la zone de rides de l'œil droit et un placebo sur la zone de rides de l'œil gauche deux fois par jour (matin et soir) pendant 12 semaines. La modification des rides profondes et épaisses autour des yeux a été confirmée par une évaluation visuelle, des mesures cutanées et un questionnaire. Il a été découvert que les valeurs de rugosité de surface (R1), de rugosité maximale (R2), de rugosité moyenne (R3), de profondeur de douceur (R4) et de moyenne arithmétique (R5) dans le groupe à l'aide de la crème PASE avaient toutes diminué. En particulier, R1, R4 et R5 ont significativement diminué de 18,1 %, de 18,6 % et de 25,0 %, respectivement. Les patients qui ont appliqué la crème PASE ont également présenté une amélioration de l'hydratation de la peau presque deux fois supérieure à celle du groupe placebo. En outre, aucun participant n'a signalé d'effets secondaires. Notre étude a montré que la crème PASE entraînait des niveaux cliniquement significatifs d'amélioration des rides. En conclusion, comme le PASE est un aliment naturel, sûr et dépourvu d'effets secondaires, elle peut constituer une bonne ressource pour les cosmétiques fonctionnels naturels antirides à l'avenir.

Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder.

OBJECTIVE: Barrier creams (BCs) are marketed as locally applied medical devices or cosmetic products to protect the skin from exposure to chemicals and irritants. Generally, the mechanism of action of such products is mainly due to the formation of a superficial thin film between the skin and the irritant or sensitizer, thus reducing or totally blocking the cutaneous penetration of such agents. Specifically, studies focusing on the effectiveness of commercial protective creams to prevent nickel cutaneous penetration are extremely scarce. The aim of the current work, therefore, is to evaluate the protective role of a commercially available barrier cream for nickel and compare the results with a simple moisturizing, following exposure to Ni powder. METHODS: Marketed BCs were evaluated and tested. Human skin absorption of Ni was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells. RESULTS: Our results demonstrate that the application of both formulations caused a reduction of Ni inside the skin (8.00 ± 3.35 µg cm-2 for the barrier cream and 22.6 ± 12.6 µg cm-2 for the general moisturizing product), with the specialized barrier cream being statistically (p = 0.015) more efficient on forming a protective barrier, thus evidencing the importance of some ingredients in such formulations on the nickel dermal accumulation. CONCLUSIONS: The composition of the formulations based on film-forming or chelating agents may play an imperative role in reducing the cutaneous penetration of Ni.

OBJECTIF: Les crèmes de barrière (CB) sont commercialisées en tant que dispositifs médicaux ou produits cosmétiques appliqués localement pour protéger la peau contre l'exposition aux produits chimiques et irritants. En général, le mécanisme d'action de ces produits est principalement dû à la formation d'un film mince superficiel entre la peau et l'irritant ou le sensibilisant, réduisant ainsi ou bloquant totalement la pénétration cutanée de ces agents. Plus précisément, les études portant sur l'efficacité des crèmes protectrices commercialisées pour prévenir la pénétration cutanée du nickel sont extrêmement rares. L'objectif du projet en cours est donc d'évaluer le rôle protecteur d'une crème barrière disponible dans le commerce contre le nickel et de comparer les résultats à un simple hydratant après une exposition à la poudre de Ni. MÉTHODES: Des CB commercialisées ont été évaluées et testées. L'absorption cutanée du Ni dans la peau humaine a été étudiée in vitro à l'aide de cellules de diffusion statiques de Franz. RÉSULTATS: Nos résultats démontrent que l'application des deux formulations a entraîné une réduction du taux de Ni à l'intérieur de la peau (8,00 ± 3,35 µg·cm-2 pour la crème barrière et 22,6 ± 12,6 µg·cm-2 pour le produit hydratant ordinaire), la crème barrière spécialisée étant statistiquement (p = 0,015) plus efficace pour former une barrière protectrice, démontrant ainsi l'importance de certains ingrédients dans ces formulations sur l'accumulation dermique du nickel. CONCLUSIONS: La composition des formulations basées sur des agents de formation de film ou de chélation peut jouer un rôle nécessaire pour réduire la pénétration cutanée du Ni.

Clinical effect of Pediococcus acidilactici PMC48 on hyperpigmented skin.

BACKGROUND: The excessive production and accumulation of melanin in the epidermal skin layer can result in skin hyperpigmentation and darkening. Current technologies for regulating melanin are based on inhibiting melanin biosynthesis. They have low effectiveness and safety issues. AIMS: This study aimed to evaluate the potential role of Pediococcus acidilactici PMC48 as a probiotic strain in medicines and cosmetics for skin treatment. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Meanwhile, our research team has reported that P. acidilactici PMC48 strain isolated from sesame leaf kimchi can directly decompose the already synthesized melanin. It can also inhibit melanin biosynthesis. In the present study, we investigated the skin-whitening effect of this strain by arranging an 8-week clinical trial with 22 participants. PMC48 was applied to each participant's artificially UV-induced tanned skin in the clinical trial. Its whitening effect was investigated based on visual evaluation, skin brightness, and melanin index. RESULTS: PMC48 showed a significant effect on the artificially induced pigmented skin. The color intensity of the tanned skin was decreased by 47.647%, and skin brightness was increased by 8.098% after the treatment period. PMC48 also significantly decreased the melanin index by 11.818%, indicating its tyrosinase inhibition capacity. Also, PMC48 improved skin moisture content level by 20.943%. Additionally, 16S rRNA-based amplicon sequencing analysis showed a distinct increase in Lactobacillaceae in the skin by up to 11.2% at the family level without affecting other skin microbiota. Furthermore, it showed no toxicity in in vitro or in vivo analyses. DISCUSSION: These results indicate that P. acidilactici PMC48 is a promising probiotic strain that can be used to develop medicines and cosmetic products to solve skin-related problems. CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrate that P. acidilactici PMC48 can be a potential probiotic for the cosmetic industry against different skin disorders.

Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study.

BACKGROUND: The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers. AIM: To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide. METHODS: Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®. RESULTS: The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. CONCLUSIONS: The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Antibacterial and antibiofilm effects of Camellia oleifera seed dreg extract and its application in cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetic care products contain a high proportion of water and nutrients. Therefore, preventing bacterial growth is an important issue to ensure product quality and safety. The application of antibacterial natural ingredients derived from plants is considered to have the potential to maintain product quality and reduce the use of chemicals in formulations. Additionally, chemically synthesized antiseptic and antibacterial agents are widely used in the industry at present. However, some preservative ingredients have been reported that may cause skin irritation, redness, allergies, and even dermatitis. AIMS: This study aimed to prepare extract from Camellia oleifera tea seed dregs (CTSD), investigate the antibacterial effects on two pathogenic bacteria and evaluate the product preservative ability. METHODS: Ethanol extraction was prepared and subjected to characterize their triterpenoid contents. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC), and minimum biofilm eradication concentration (MBEC) were determined for Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus. The product's stability and preservative qualities, along with its ability to scavenge free radicals through antioxidant activity, were also assessed. RESULTS: The gram-positive S. aureus showed greater susceptibility to the treatment. In additional, CTSD possessed significant free radical scavenging activity in vitro and cultured normal human skin fibroblast CCD-966SK cells under nontoxic concentration. The challenge test and accelerated storage test confirmed the CTSD containing formulated emulsion is eligible for commercialization. CONCLUSIONS: CTSD has the potential to be developed as an alternative agent to control microbial biofilm formation, or can be used as an adjuvant compound for infectious disease control.

In vitro and in vivo efficacy of a cosmetic product formulated with new lipid particles for the treatment of aged skin.

BACKGROUND: The cumulative oxidative damage causes an acceleration in the skin aging. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the ability of a new patented matrix of lipid particles (SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™) to have superior anti-aging properties due to its high sensitivity to reactive oxygen species (ROS), testing its efficacy versus free or encapsulated vitamins. METHODS: An in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the protective effects of lipid particles using menadione as an enhancer of oxidative stress. Subsequently, in vivo studies evaluated skin hydration, skin barrier function, and smoothness and wrinkle depth. For this purpose, gels containing free or encapsulated vitamins were used as controls. RESULTS: In vitro, the SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™ gel shows inhibitory activity against ROS production through menadione induction. In fact, at both tested concentrations, ROS production is lower than in the control samples (placebo, free vitamins, encapsulated vitamins). In vivo, the net effect of SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™ gel versus the others permitted to conclude that lipid particles exert a higher skin moisturizing effect (20.17%) and a stronger effect in reducing transepidermal water loss (-16.29%) after 4 weeks of treatment. As for surface analysis, a gel based on SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™ improves the skin texture in a similar way than gel containing encapsulated vitamins (Ra and Rz variations in 4 weeks). CONCLUSIONS: SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™ represents an advance and a successful strategy to develop cosmetic products for the treatment of skin conditions associated with an accumulation of ROS. SIREN CAPSULE TECHNOLOGY™ represents a result-oriented breakthrough in the effective delivery of active ingredients to the skin.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies.

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes.

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Production and Partial Characterization of Bioactive Compounds from Underutilized Marine Bioresources for a Cosmetic Formulation: Cytotoxicity and Bioactivity Evaluation.

Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging. AIMS: The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials. METHODS: We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms. RESULTS: The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1ß, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo. CONCLUSION: The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component.

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 µg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 µg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Five dimensions of cleansing: A holistic view on the facets and importance of skin cleansing.

Cleansing is an important human ritual practised for hygiene, well-being and relaxation over centuries. As part of body care it is often taken for granted, yet its relevance cannot be underestimated. Although cleansing the skin may seem trivial to some, it is accepted, that this fundamental function of skin cleansing products is highly complex, diverse and crucial for a variety of reasons in the personal, public, healthcare and dermatological settings. Employing a comprehensive and strategic approach in viewing cleansing and its rituals, supports innovation, understanding and development. Apart from being a fundamental function, as far as we know, there is no comprehensive presentation of skin cleansing with all its effects besides 'removing dirt'. To our knowledge, comprehensive analyses on the multi-dimensional facets of skin cleansing are either rare or not published. Against this background, we examine the importance of cleansing in terms of function, relevance and concepts. First, the key functions and efficacies of skin cleansing were investigated by literature research. Based on this survey, the functions were analysed, sorted and merged and a novel approach to skin cleansing 'dimensions' was developed. Herewith, we took into consideration the evolution of skin cleansing in terms of concept evolution, complexity and testing methods for cleansing products and their claims. Several multi-dimensional functions of skin cleansing were identified and then established into five skin cleansing dimensions, namely: hygienic and medical importance; socio-cultural and interpersonal relevance; mood, emotion and well-being; cosmetic and aesthetic function; corneobiological interactions. It became obvious, that these five dimensions with their corresponding 11 sub-dimensions, are influenced by each other throughout history by culture and society, technical progress, scientific knowledge and consumer trends. This article presents the enormous complexity of skin cleansing. Skin cleansing has evolved from basic care up to a highly complex and diverse cosmetic product category in terms of technology, efficacy and usage routine(s). In view of future challenges, such as the effects of climate and associated lifestyle changes, the development of skin cleansing will remain an exciting and important topic and thus will finally, again, further increase the complexity of skin cleansing itself.

OBJECTIF: La toilette est un rituel humain important pratiqué depuis des siècles pour l'hygiène, le bien-être et la relaxation. Les soins du corps sont souvent considérés comme allant de soi, mais leur importance ne doit pas être sous-estimée. Bien que le nettoyage de la peau puisse paraître trivial pour certains, il est admis que cette fonction fondamentale des produits de nettoyage de la peau est hautement complexe, variée et cruciale pour diverses raisons dans les contextes de l'hygiène personnelle et publique, de la santé en général et de la dermatologie. Adopter une approche globale et stratégique pour visualiser le nettoyage de la peau et ses rituels permet d'améliorer son innovation, sa compréhension et son développement. En dehors de sa fonction fondamentale, il n'existe pas, à notre connaissance, de présentation complète des effets du nettoyage de la peau au-delà de la simple « élimination des impuretés ¼. D'après ce que nous savons, des analyses complètes sur les facettes multiples du nettoyage de la peau sont rare, voire jamais publiées. Dans ce contexte, nous examinons l'importance du nettoyage en termes de fonction, de pertinence et de concepts. MÉTHODES: Tout d'abord, les fonctions clés et l'efficacité du nettoyage de la peau ont été étudiées en effectuant des recherches dans la littérature. Sur la base de cette enquête, ces fonctions ont été analysées, triées et fusionnées, et une nouvelle approche des différentes « dimensions ¼ du nettoyage de la peau a été développée. Ici, nous avons pris en compte l'évolution du nettoyage de la peau en ce qui concerne l'évolution de ses concepts, sa complexité et les méthodes de test des produits de nettoyage et de leurs caractéristiques. CONCLUSION: Plusieurs fonctions multidimensionnelles de nettoyage de la peau ont été identifiées, puis appliquées à cinq dimensions de nettoyage de la peau, à savoir : L'importance sanitaire et médicale ; la pertinence socioculturelle et interpersonnelle ; l'humeur, l'émotion et le bien-être ; la fonction esthétique et cosmétique ; les interactions cornéobiologiques. Il est devenu évident que ces cinq dimensions, avec leurs onze sous-dimensions respectives, se sont interinfluencées tout au long de l'histoire selon la culture, la société, les progrès techniques, les connaissances scientifiques et les tendances des consommateurs. Cet article présente l'énorme complexité du nettoyage de la peau. Le nettoyage de la peau est passé des soins de base à une catégorie de produits cosmétiques hautement complexes et variés en termes de technologie, d'efficacité et de routine(s) d'utilisation. Compte tenu des défis futurs, comme les effets du climat et les changements de mode de vie associés, le développement du nettoyage de la peau restera un sujet important et passionnant, et finira par augmenter encore davantage la complexité du nettoyage de la peau.