LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals.

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 µg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.

Potential cosmeceutical lamellar liquid crystals containing black longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) seed extract for MMP-1 and hyaluronidase inhibition.

The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of black Dimocarpus longan Lour. seed extracts and develop a lamellar liquid crystal (LLC). Different solvents, including petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, and 95% v/v ethanol, were used in the maceration of black D. longan seeds. The inhibitory activities on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and hyaluronidase were evaluated. The irritating potency of D. longan seed extracts was determined using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The extract with the strongest anti-ageing activities and no irritant impact was examined for its chemical contents using high-performance liquid chromatography and incorporated into the LLC. Various factors affecting the LLC formulations, including surfactant types and amounts, thickening agent types and amounts, and various oil types, were investigated. The results demonstrated that the ethyl acetate extract (EtOAc) was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 (IC50 = 21.7 ± 5.4 µg/mL) and hyaluronidase (oleanolic acid equivalent = 0.44 ± 0.03 g per g extract). Interestingly, its MMP-1 inhibition was equivalent to that of oleanolic acid, corilagin, and gallic acid. Furthermore, its hyaluronidase inhibition was equivalent to that of gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid, which was the most abundant compound (15.6% ± 0.06% w/w) was suggested as the compound responsible for the biological activities of EtOAc extract. Considering its potential anti-skin ageing properties with no irritation of EtOAc extract, it was incorporated into the most suitable LLC, which was composed of 5% w/w Lexfeel® D5 oil, 0.5% w/w Carbopol® U21, 2% w/w Liquid Crystal Cream Maker, and 92.5% w/w DI water. The LLC containing EtOAc extract presented birefringence under a polarizing light microscope, indicating its crystallinity. The formulation had good stability after heating-cooling cycles in terms of external appearance, crystallinity, viscosity, and pH (5.5). As a result, it is recommended as a potential cosmeceutical formulation for anti-skin wrinkling. It is proposed that more research be conducted on the safety and efficacy of the treatment on human volunteers.

New Monoterpene Acid and Gallic Acid Glucose Esters with Anti-Inflammatory Activity from Blue Gum (Eucalyptus globulus) Leaves.

Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus) is a widely used botanical in the cosmeceutical and food industries. Although blue gum leaves are known for abundant essential oils, their nonvolatile phytochemical constituents and bioactivities remain unclear. Herein, a phytochemical investigation of blue gum leaves led to the identification of eight new monoterpene acid and gallic acid glucose esters (1-4 and 14-17; glubosides A-H, respectively) and 12 known analogues (5-13 and 18-20). Their structures were determined based on extensive spectroscopic data analysis, chemical degradation, and chiral separation. Oleuropeic acid conjugated glucose esters (1-13, 15, 16, 18, and 20) are reported as epimeric mixtures. Compounds 7, 12, 14, 19, and 20 (at 30 µM) inhibited nitrite release in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Compounds 7 and 14 (at 3-30 µM) also down-regulated proinflammatory biomarkers, including cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1ß), protein expression (iNOS and COX-2), and transcription factor nuclear translocation (NF-κB) in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. This work highlights the anti-inflammatory potential of phytochemicals from blue gum leaves, which supports their further development as cosmeceutical and/or nutraceutical products.

Free amino acid contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species: a search for alternative natural free amino acid sources for cosmeceutical applications.

Free amino acids (FAAs), the major constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), are very important for maintaining the moisture balance of human skin and their deficiency results in dry skin conditions. There is a great interest in the identification and use of nature-based sources of these molecules for such cosmeceutical applications. The objective of the present study was, therefore, to investigate the FAA contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species; and select the best sources so as to use them for the stated purpose. About 59 different plant species and oyster mushroom were included in the study and the concentrations of 27 FAAs were analyzed. Each sample was collected, lyophilized, extracted using aqueous solvent, derivatized with Fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl chloride (Fmoc-Cl) prior to solid-phase extraction and quantified using Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Tandem Mass Spectrometric (LC-ESI-MS/MS) system. All the 27 FAAs were detected in most of the samples. The dominant FAAs that are part of the NMF were found at sufficiently high concentration in the mushroom and some of the plants. This indicates that FAAs that could be included in the preparations for the management of dry skin condition can be obtained from a single natural resource and the use of these resources for the specified purpose have both economic and therapeutic advantage in addition to fulfilling customer needs.

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications.

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:dH2O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

A novel 3D-printed solid phase microextraction device equipped with silver-polyaniline coated pencil lead for the extraction of phthalate esters in cosmeceutical products.

A screw-based portable and simple solid phase microextraction device was fabricated by a 3D printer and used in combination with the developed silver-incorporated porous polyaniline film pencil lead solid-phase microextraction fiber (Ag/PANI SPME). Scanning electron microscopy revealed a porous structure of the electrodeposited Ag/PANI film. The spectrum from energy dispersive x-ray spectroscopy (EDS) and the elemental map confirmed the presence of silver in the porous polymer film. It was used under stirring for the extraction of five phthalate esters: dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) and di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP). The extracted solution was identified and quantified by gas chromatography using a flame ionization detector (GC-FID). Under the optimum conditions of the developed method, a good linearity was obtained in a concentration range of 5.0-1000 µg L-1 for all five phthalate esters with limits of detection (LODs) of 4.41 ±â€¯0.91 µg L-1, 3.98 ±â€¯0.92 µg L-1, 3.65 ±â€¯0.74 µg L-1, 4.91 ±â€¯0.52 µg L-1 and 4.25 ±â€¯0.66 µg L-1 for DMP, DEP, DBP, BBP and DEHP, respectively. The developed method provided good precision when tested with standard solutions (RSD < 5.5%, n = 6) and real samples (RSD < 3.4%, n = 6). Good fiber-to-fiber reproducibility was also confirmed by extraction with six newly prepared fibers; recoveries ranged from 81.09 ±â€¯0.54% to 92.92 ±â€¯0.46% with RSD <6.6%. The developed method was used to determine phthalate esters in 14 cosmeceutical samples. In rubbing alcohol samples, DEP and DEHP were detected at 7.03 ±â€¯0.76 µg L-1 and 5.89 ±â€¯0.53 µg L-1, respectively, while in contact lens cleaners, DEHP was found in a concentration range from 5.3 ±â€¯1.1 µg L-1 to 6.8 ±â€¯1.2 µg L-1. No phthalate esters contamination was detectable in saline solutions, eye cleaners and antibacterial disinfectant liquids. Recoveries in the range of 81.92 ±â€¯0.99% to 102.4 ±â€¯1.1% indicated the good accuracy of the developed method.

Recovering Cucurbita pepo cv. 'Lungo Fiorentino' Wastes: UHPLC-HRMS/MS Metabolic Profile, the Basis for Establishing Their Nutra- and Cosmeceutical Valorisation.

Food-waste is produced throughout all the food supply chain, with a large part already achieved at farm level. In fact, fruits and vegetables, which do not satisfy aesthetic demands, cannot be marketed, but their recovery could favour their valorisation for the obtainment of highly qualified goods. In this context, faulty zucchini fruits (cultivar 'Lungo Fiorentino'), intended for disposal, were rescued as effective, inexpensive and bio-sustainable source for cosmeceutical purposes. Zucchini fruits underwent extraction and fractionation to obtain ZLF-O and ZLF-A extracts, which were chemically characterized by UHPLC-HRMS. ZLF-A extract, rich in flavonols and flavones, scavenged massively DPPH• and ABTS•+, and was not cytotoxic at doses up to 200 µ g/mL. Thus, ZLF-A was incorporated into a base cream formula. Zucchini-based emulsion was deeply screened for its antiradical properties and cytotoxicity towards human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. ZLF-A-enriched cream, whose chemical stability was assessed over time and mimicking different storage conditions, was further tested on reconstructed epidermis disks (EpiskinTM). The recovery of valuable chemical substances from zucchini agro-food waste, complying with the principles of valorisation and sustainable development, can represent a new market force for local farmers. Data acquired were eager to convey a suitable reuse of nutraceuticals rich zucchini waste.

Agaricus blazei Murrill from Brazil: an ingredient for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications.

Operations for sorting mushrooms at the industrial level usually generate large amounts of bio-residues not conforming to strict morphological criteria for commercial purposes, even though their biological content is not compromised. In this context, the present work aimed at evaluating the potential for reutilizing industrially discarded Agaricus blazei Murill (ABM). Thus, the content of essential nutrients and the chemical composition were determined, and MTT and LDH assays were used to evaluate the viability and cell death of Caco-2 and HT29 cell lines of an ethanolic extract prepared from ABM (preliminary safety tests for nutraceutical applications). The extract was incorporated into a semi-solid base cosmetic cream and cell viability effects of the extract, and of the final cream formulation, on a keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) were studied (preliminary safety tests for cosmeceutical applications). Essential nutrients, such as proteins and carbohydrates, and a low fat content were determined for ABM. Twenty-two fatty acids were detected, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) (∼53%) being the most abundant fraction. The cell viabilities of Caco-2 and HT29 cells were maintained up to 100 µg mL-1. After incorporation into the base cream, a formulation with a pale yellow colour and favourable pH was obtained. The cell viability of HaCaT cells in the presence of the extract and the final cream formulation was maintained in a concentration dependent manner, which indicates the safety of this extract for cosmeceutical applications. The results suggest that ABM residues can be used as an inexpensive and sustainable source of nutraceutical and cosmeceutical ingredients.

Evaluation of the Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical Potential of Two Cultivars of Rubus fruticosus L. under Different Cultivation Conditions.

BACKGROUND: The starting point for the development of new, functional products derived from Rubus fruticosus L. is to determine the optimal cultivation conditions that produce maximal yield of fruits containing desirable bioactive properties. Towards that goal, the effect of soil, soil/peat mixture and light intensity on the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical potential of two cultivars ('Thornfree' and 'Loch Ness') of Rubus fruticosus L. were evaluated. METHODS: The assessment was carried out employing a range of methods for evaluating fruit properties associated with promoting good health such as total antioxidant capacity, secondary metabolites content (vitamin C, polyphenols, flavonoids and anthocyanins) and inhibition analysis of skin-regulating enzymes. RESULTS: 'Thornfree' cultivar produced fruits in all light conditions, while 'Loch Ness' did not produce fruits in low light conditions. The results showed that in Rubus fruticosus L. fruit, the chemical composition and bioactivity are strongly affected by both genetics factors and growing conditions. Extract from 'Thornfree' fruits obtained under low light and soil/peat conditions displayed superior properties such as high antioxidant capacity, high concentrations of phenolics, flavonoids and anthocyanins and high inhibitory potency towards the enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. This extract was used for the development of a topical skin care cream with excellent compatibility and stability. CONCLUSION: Our findings conclude that Rubus fruticosus L. cultivation may be efficiently and effectively manipulated through conventional cultivation techniques to produce promising bioactive ingredients with potential use in commercial cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Sugar and mineral enriched fraction from olive mill wastewater for promising cosmeceutical application: characterization, in vitro and in vivo studies.

Nowadays, agro-food by-products represent a potential low-cost source of biologically active ingredients which have been paid significant attention as nutraceuticals, medicine, food and cosmetics. In a previous study we evaluated the total sugars, metals and polyphenols of olive mill wastewater (OMWW) from a Cerasuola olive cultivar. In the present work we selectively recovered a sugar and mineral enriched fraction (SMEF) from Cerasuola OMWW by a green adsorption/desorption process. The SMEF was mainly found to be composed of monosaccharides and potassium by HPLC-ELSD and ICP-MS. The in vitro cytotoxicity on human fibroblasts, at different concentrations of the fraction, was investigated by MTT and comet assays. In addition, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptosis and cell morphological changes were examined. The physical stability of a formulation containing the SMEF (1% w/w) and its in vivo skin effects were also assessed.Our results highlighted that the SMEF showed a toxic effect at higher concentrations (i.e. cell viability reduction, DNA fragmentation and morphological alterations) well correlated with high ROS levels. Conversely, at low concentrations (0.5% and 1% w/w), no significant changes were observed. For the first time, through stability studies and in vivo tests, we also demonstrated that the SMEF formulation is stable and safe for topical application, since skin hydration improvement without negative effects was observed after 7 days of its use. Therefore, the SMEF has great potential to be used for cosmeceutical applications.

Dermocosmetic care for rosacea

ABSTRACT Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that primarily affects the central area of the face; it is characterized by erythema, papules, pustules, nodules, and telangiectasia. This condition arises between 30-60 years of age, and it usually occurs in fair-skinned people. Rosacea is characteristic of sensitive skin, as it is a disease marked with punctuated phases of exacerbated signs and symptoms that alternate with periods of remission. Humans have long incorporated cosmetics in their daily habits; given the scientific and technological developments that emerged in cosmeceuticals or dermocosmetics, the current cosmetic options are now used for much more than adornment or cleansing. The purpose of cosmetic care in rosacea is to restore the balance of the skin, while reducing the underlying inflammation, sensitivity, and dehydration. This review aims to highlight the various dermocosmetic care options that can reduce discomfort for and bring benefit to patients who have reactive and sensitive skin associated with rosacea. Additionally, this report discusses how pharmacists - public health agents - can and should offer counseling and support interventions to patients once oral or topical medications are dispensed to this pathology.

Natural Cosmeceutical Ingredients for Hyperpigmentation.

As Dermatologists caring for patients with hyperpigmentation problems, we are always looking for more alternative therapies. Hydroquinone (HQ) is still the standard of care. However, traditional depigmenting agents such as HQ and corticosteroids, although highly effective, can raise safety concerns including exogenous ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis and local and systemic untoward effects with long term use. Therefore, we need to investigate non-prescription natural alternatives. This manuscript presents many of the natural ingredients found in cosmeceuticals for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and their mechanisms of action. It will also describe the melanocyte activation pathways and how each of these ingredients interferes with it.