Towards Greener and More Cost-efficient Biosynthesis of Pharmaceuticals and Fragrance Molecules.

Enzymes are natural catalysts which are gaining momentum in chemical synthesis due to their exquisiteselectivity and their biodegradability. However, the cost-efficiency and the sustainability of the overall biocatalytic process must be enhanced to unlock completely the potential of enzymes for industrial applications. To reach this goal, enzyme immobilization and the integration into continuous flow reactors have been the cornerstone of our research. We showed key examples of the advantages of those tools for the biosynthesis of antivirals, anticancer drugs, and valuable fragrance molecules. By combining new strategies to immobilize biocatalysts, innovative bioengineering approaches, and process development, the performance of the reactions could be boosted up to 100-fold.

Per- and polyfluoroalkyls used as cosmetic ingredients - Qualitative study of 765 cosmetic products.

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) form a vast family comprising more than 4700 synthetic compounds. Their molecules contain a terminal functional group and a hydrophobic carbon tail (alkyl group) at which the hydrogen atoms are totally (in the case of perfluorinated compounds) or partially (in the case of polyfluorinated compounds) replaced by fluorine atoms. Due to the very specific properties of their structure, they have been used in a vast range of applications over the last 70 years. These substances are considered to be of concern for the environment. Their effects on human health are still poorly understood because studies are still too rare, but the cutaneous route could be a significant pathway of penetration. In this context, we made a qualitative study to assess the presence of PFAS in various cosmetics such as hygiene products, skin care products, make-up and perfumes. Among the 765 products studied, we found 11 different PFAS. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and perfluorodecalin, present in 25.9% and 22.2% of products containing it, respectively, were the most frequent. Although the presence of this type of ingredient seems to be limited in Europe, make-up appears to be the type of product most likely to contain PFAS.

Contact allergy in Swedish professional ice hockey players.

BACKGROUND: Professional ice hockey players may contract irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. AIMS: To investigate the presence of contact allergy (CA) in professional ice hockey players in Sweden. METHODS: Ten teams from the two top leagues were assessed for potential occupational exposure to sensitizers. Exactly 107 players were patch tested with an extended baseline series and a working series, in total 74 test preparations. The CA rates were compared between the ice hockey players and controls from the general population and dermatitis patients. RESULTS: One out of 4 players had at least one contact allergy. The most common sensitizers were Amerchol L 101, nickel and oxidized limonene. CA was as common in the ice hockey players as in dermatitis patients and significantly more common than in the general population. Fragrances and combined sensitizers in cosmetic products (fragrances + preservatives + emulsifier) were significantly more common in ice hockey players compared with the general population. CONCLUSION: The possible relationship between CA to fragrances and cosmetic products on the one hand and the presence of dermatitis on the other should be explored further.

Age-dependent perfume development in male orchid bees, Euglossa imperialis.

Male neotropical orchid bees concoct complex perfume blends by collecting exogenous volatiles from various sources, including orchids. These perfumes, stored in specialized hind-leg pouches and released during courtship, serve as inter-sexual signals. It has been hypothesized that male perfumes honestly indicate aspects of male fitness. If perfume traits such as quantity or complexity increase over individual lifetime, perfumes could reflect age (survival) and cumulative foraging success of males. We conducted a two-season mark-recapture study with Euglossa imperialis in Costa Rica, monitoring the balance of perfume uptake and expenditure over individual male lifetime. We sealed one hind-leg pouch upon initial capture, 'freezing' the perfume status on one side, and compared it with the other side at recapture to assess changes in perfume traits over time. Additionally, we used a novel method to estimate individual age by combining two parameters of wing degradation. Contrary to predictions, young to intermediate-aged bees had the highest quantities of perfume and the highest diversity of detected compounds. At the same time, the change in perfume between recaptures was positive (increase in amount and complexity) in young bees, whereas it was neutral to negative in older bees. Although these findings do not disprove an indicator function of male perfume, they shift the emphasis to non-cumulative fitness components such as sensory acuteness or cognitive capacity as likely targets of selection. Females preferring strong perfume signals in mates would maximize speed of foraging in offspring rather than their lifetime cumulative yield.

GARDskin dose-response assay and its application in conducting Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA) for fragrance materials using a Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) framework.

Development of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) capable of providing a No Expected Sensitization Induction Level (NESIL) value remains a high priority for the fragrance industry for conducting a Quantitative Risk Assesment (QRA) to evaluate dermal sensitization. The in vitro GARDskin assay was recently adopted by the OECD (TG 442E) for the hazard identification of skin sensitizers. Continuous potency predictions are derived using a modified protocol that incorporates dose-response measurements. Linear regression models have been developed to predict human NESIL values. The aim of the study was to evaluate the precision and reproducibility of the continuous potency predictions from the GARDskin Dose-Response (DR) assay and its application in conducting QRA for fragrance materials using a Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) framework. Results indicated that the GARDskin Dose-Response model predicted human NESIL values with a good degree of concordance with published NESIL values, which were also reproducible in 3 separate experiments. Using Isocyclocitral as an example, a QRA was conducted to determine its safe use levels in different consumer product types using a NGRA framework. This study represents a major step towards the establishment of the assay to derive NESIL values for conducting QRA evaluations for fragrance materials using a NGRA framework.

Mass-Spectrometry-Based Research of Cosmetic Ingredients.

Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.

Analysis of preservatives and fragrances in topical medical devices: The need for more stringent regulation.

INTRODUCTION: Medical devices (MDs) have a long history of use, and come with regulatory frameworks to ensure user safety. Although topically applied MDs in the form of gels and creams might be used on damaged skin, their composition is often similar to that of cosmetic products applicable to intact skin, especially in terms of preservatives and fragrances. However, unlike cosmetics, these products are not subject to compound-specific restrictions when used in MDs. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to identify and quantify preservatives and fragrances in topically applied MDs and assess their safety towards the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. METHOD: Sixty-nine MDs available on the EU market were subjected to previously validated liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) methods to identify and quantify occurring preservatives and fragrances. RESULTS: Findings revealed that 32% of the examined MDs did not provide comprehensive ingredient lists, leaving users uninformed about potential risks associated with product use. Furthermore, 30% of these MDs would not meet safety standards for cosmetic products and, most significantly, 13% of the analysed samples contained ingredients that are prohibited in leave-on cosmetics. CONCLUSION: Results highlight the pressing demand for more stringent requirements regarding the labelling and composition of MDs to enhance patient safety. Improved regulation and transparency can mitigate potential risks associated with the use of topically applied MDs.

Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry.

In this review, the impact of the transition from today's resource-wasting petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed with respect to the fragrance families: "citrus", "green", "fruity", "floral", "floriental", "oriental", "woody", "chypre" and "fougère". After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of synthetic vanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. In the grand scheme of things, citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry, are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. However, in the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified here create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials.