Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry.

In this review, the impact of the transition from today's resource-wasting petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed with respect to the fragrance families: "citrus", "green", "fruity", "floral", "floriental", "oriental", "woody", "chypre" and "fougère". After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of synthetic vanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. In the grand scheme of things, citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry, are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. However, in the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified here create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials.

Release of Volatile Cyclopentanone Derivatives from Imidazolidin-4-One Profragrances in a Fabric Softener Application.

Imidazolidin-4-ones were investigated as hydrolytically cleavable profragrances to increase the long-lastingness of perfume perception in a fabric softener application. The reaction of different amino acid amides with 2-alkyl- or 2-alkenylcyclopentanones as the model fragrances to be released afforded the corresponding bi- or tricyclic imidazolidin-4-ones as mixtures of diastereoisomers, which were separated by column chromatography. In polar solution, the different stereoisomers equilibrated under thermodynamic conditions to form mixtures with constant isomeric distributions, as shown by NMR spectroscopy. Dynamic headspace analysis on dry cotton demonstrated the controlled fragrance release from the precursors in practical application. Under non-equilibrium conditions (continuous evaporation of the fragrance) and depending on the structure and stereochemistry of the profragrances, the recorded headspace concentrations of the fragrance released from the precursors increased by a factor of 2 up to 100 with respect to the unmodified reference. Prolinamide-based precursors released the highest amount of fragrance and were thus found to be particularly suitable for prolonging the evaporation of cyclopentanone-derived fragrances on a dry cotton surface.

An End Point-Specific Framework for Read-Across Analog Selection for Human Health Effects.

Integrating computational chemistry and toxicology can improve the read-across analog approach to fill data gaps in chemical safety assessment. In read-across, structure-related parameters are compared between a target chemical with insufficient test data and one or more materials with sufficient data. Recent advances have focused on enhancing the grouping or clustering of chemicals to facilitate toxicity prediction via read-across. Analog selection ascertains relevant features, such as physical-chemical properties, toxicokinetic-related properties (bioavailability, metabolism, and degradation pathways), and toxicodynamic properties of chemicals with an emphasis on mechanisms or modes of action. However, each human health end point (genotoxicity, skin sensitization, phototoxicity, repeated dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity, and local respiratory toxicity) provides a different critical context for analog selection. Here six end point-specific, rule-based schemes are described. Each scheme creates an end point-specific workflow for filling the target material data gap by read-across. These schemes are intended to create a transparent rationale that supports the selected read-across analog(s) for the specific end point under study. This framework can systematically drive the selection of read-across analogs for each end point, thereby accelerating the safety assessment process.

Spirocyclic Compounds in Fragrance Chemistry: Synthesis and Olfactory Properties.

In this Review, both the scientific literature and patents have been analysed to gather, examine and classify synthetic strategies developed to access spirocyclic molecules having olfactory properties of interest for the perfume industry. New structures have been reported at a steady state since 1961 with a particularly intense activity in the 80's. In the diversity of olfactory properties observed, spirocyclic molecules were found to be quite frequently woody, as well as fruity and ambery, among other tonalities. More recent data reflect the evolution of modern synthetic organic chemistry towards bioinspiration, enantioselective reactions, green and sustainable chemistry and biotechnology.

Autoxidized citronellol: Free radicals as potential sparkles to ignite the fragrance induced skin sensitizing pathway.

Citronellol, one of the most used fragrance compounds worldwide, is one ingredient of Fragrance Mix II used to assess skin allergy to fragrances in dermatitis patients. Pure citronellol is non-allergenic. Main issue is it autoxidizes when exposed to air becoming then allergenic. The increased skin sensitizing potency of air-exposed citronellol has been attributed to the hydroperoxides detected at high concentrations in the oxidation mixtures. It has been postulated that such hydroperoxides can give rise to specific antigens, although chemical mechanisms involved and the pathogenesis are far from being unraveled. Hydroperoxides are believed to react with skin proteins through mechanisms involving radical intermediates. Here, insights on the potential radicals involved in skin sensitization to citronellol hydroperoxides are given. The employed tool is a multispectroscopic approach based on (i) electron paramagnetic resonance and spin trapping, that confirmed the formation of oxygen- and carbon-radicals when exposing reconstructed human epidermis to concentrations of hydroperoxides close to those used for patch testing patients with air-oxidized citronellol; (ii) liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, that proved the reaction with amino acids such as cysteine and histidine, known to be involved in radical processes and (iii) density functional theory calculations, that gave an overview on the preferential paths for radical degradation.

RIFM fragrance ingredient safety assessment, 6,6-dimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene-2-propionaldehyde, CAS Registry Number 33885-51-7.

No treatment-related effects at the low and mid doses were observed in gestation, viability and lactation indices, duration of gestation, parturition, sex ratio, maternal care, litter size, and early postnatal pup development consisting of mortality, clinical signs, anogenital distance, areola/nipple retention, T4 thyroid hormone levels, or macroscopic examination. However, the number of litters (N = 5) at the high dose was considered too low for toxicological evaluation. Thus, based on insufficient data at 120 mg/kg/day, the NOAEL for this study was considered to be 60 mg/kg/day (RIFM, 2020d).

RIFM fragrance ingredient safety assessment, 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel-, CAS Registry Number 943723-15-7.

The existing information supports the use of this material as described in this safety assessment. 5,8-Methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- was evaluated for genotoxicity, repeated dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity, local respiratory toxicity, phototoxicity/photoallergenicity, skin sensitization, and environmental safety. Data from read-across analog 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one, 6- ethylideneoctahydro- (CAS # 69486-14-2) show that 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- is not expected to be genotoxic. The repeated dose, reproductive, and local respiratory toxicity endpoints were evaluated using the TTC for a Cramer Class III material, and the exposure to 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- is below the TTC (0.0015 mg/kg/day, 0.0015 mg/kg/day, and 0.47 mg/day, respectively). Data provided 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- a NESIL of 8200 µg/cm2 for the skin sensitization endpoint. The phototoxicity/photoallergenicity endpoints were evaluated based on human study data and UV/Vis spectra; 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- is not expected to be phototoxic/photoallergenic. The environmental endpoints were evaluated; 5,8-methano-2H-1-benzopyran, 6(or 7)-ethylideneoctahydro-, [4aR,5S,8S,8aS(or 4aR,5R,8S,8aR)]-rel- was found not to be PBT as per the IFRA Environmental Standards, and its risk quotients, based on its current volume of use in Europe and North America (i.e., PEC/PNEC), are <1.

RIFM fragrance ingredient safety assessment, cis-3-hexenyl methyl carbonate, CAS Registry Number 67633-96-9.

The following paper presents the method of determination of the percolation threshold in cement composites with expanded graphite by impedance spectroscopy. Most of the applications of cement composites with conductive additives require exceeding the percolation threshold. The ionic conductivity of cement matrix below the percolation threshold has a major impact on the conductivity of the composite, as a result, it significantly hinders the exploitation of these composites. The electric properties of cement composites with expanded graphite were evaluated by DC measurements and impedance spectroscopy (IS). Based on Nyquist plots, two equivalent circuits were adopted for the composites. Next, the values of capacitance and inductance of cement composites with expanded graphite were calculated from the fitted equivalent circuits. The analysis of the results shows that the percolation threshold occurs when the reactance of the composite changes from captative to inductive. Comparison between the values of percolation threshold obtained from DC measurements and IS shows that the method is effective for cement composites with conductive additives.

Analysis of Fragrance Allergens in Personal Care Products, Toys, and Water Samples: A Review.

Fragrance allergens (FAs) refer to these volatile or semi-volatile fragrance compounds that can cause irritation and negative reactions. A large number of emerging FAs are widely used in household goods, and cause contact allergy or allergic contact dermatitis in eczema population and the general population. It shows an increasing prevalence and is regarded as a concern to public health. Recently, more and more studies have focused on the analytical methods of FAs in a variety of samples with different matrixes. Therefore, a systematic and comprehensive overview of recent progress of analysis of FAs in various samples is needed. In this review, the physical and chemical properties, applications, hazards, and the recent advances of sample preparation and determination methods of common FAs in personal care products, toys, and water samples are systematically and comprehensively summarized. Meanwhile, this review also discusses the advantages and limitations of different sample pretreatment and detection methods, thus offering a deep-going discussion of the development and future trends in this area.