Hyperpigmented Macules and Patches on the Face: Exogenous Ochronosis or Lichen Planus Pigmentosus?

We present a case of a patient with a 10-year history of blue-black macules and patches on the face and an associated history of skin-lightening cream usage. The skin lightening cream contained hydroquinone, which is often associated with exogenous ochronosis (EO). Interestingly, the biopsy did not show characteristic findings of ochronosis, confusing the final diagnosis, however discontinuing the skin-lightening creams halted the progression of the patient's skin lesions supporting a diagnosis of EO. EO presents as asymptomatic hyperpigmentation after using products containing hydroquinone. This condition is most common in Black populations, likely due to the increased use of skin care products and bleaching cream containing hydroquinone in these populations. Topical hydroquinone is FDA-approved to treat melasma, chloasma, freckles, senile lentigines, and hyperpigmentation and is available by prescription only in the US and Canada. However, with the increased use of skin-lightening creams in certain populations, it is important for dermatologists to accurately recognize the clinical features of exogenous ochronosis to differentiate it from similar dermatoses. An earlier diagnosis can prevent the progression to severe presentations with papules and nodules. We summarize the clinical presentations diagnostic features, and treatment pearls, concluding with a discussion of the differential diagnoses.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):567-568.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8248.

Nanosystems with potential application as carriers for skin depigmenting actives.

Hyperpigmentation is a skin disorder characterized by excessive production of melanin in the skin and includes dyschromias such as post-inflammatory hyperchromias, lentigens, melasma and chloasma. Topical products containing depigmenting agents offer a less aggressive treatment option for hyperpigmentation compared to methods like chemical peels and laser sessions. However, some of these agents can cause side effects such as redness and skin irritation. Encapsulating these actives in nanosystems shows promise in mitigating these effects and improving product safety and efficacy. In addition, nanocarriers have the ability to penetrate the skin, potentially allowing for targeted delivery of actives to the affected areas. The most commonly investigated nanosystems are nanoemulsions, vesicular nanosystems and nanoparticles, in which different materials can be used to generate different compositions in order to improve the properties of these nanocarriers. Nanocarriers have already been widely explored, but it is necessary to understand the evolution of these technologies when applied to the treatment of skin hyperchromias. Therefore, this literature review aims to present the state of the art over the last 15 years on the use of nanosystems as a potential strategy for encapsulating depigmenting actives for potential application in cosmetic products for skin hyperchromia. By providing a comprehensive overview of the latest research findings and technological advances, this article can contribute to improving the care and quality of life of people affected by this skin condition.

An update on the safety of hydroquinone.

Hydroquinone has been used for years for multiple conditions, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dyschromia from photoaging, and solar lentigines. It is known to be a very effective lightening agent, but several concerns have been raised about this widely used agent. The recent U.S. ban on over-the-counter skin lightening products containing hydroquinone has prompted further questioning of the safety of this widely used agent. While there have been prior informative, large-scale reviews on the safety of hydroquinone, new findings have since been reported. Here, we provide an updated review of studies published in the past 15 years on hydroquinone safety.

Components analysis of San-Bai decoction, and its pharmacodynamics and mechanism on preventing and treating melasma.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: San-Bai Decoction (SBD) is a classic whitening prescription originally recorded in the 'Introduction to Medicine' of the Ming Dynasty. SBD has been known for invigorating Qi and blood, promoting spleen and stomach, whitening skin, and fading melasma. However, its pharmacodynamic material basis and specific mechanism remain unclear. AIM OF THE STUDY: The aim of this study is to clarify the pharmacodynamic material basis of SBD and its mechanism of removing melasma. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The positive and negative ion mass spectrum data of SBD extract were collected by UHPLC-Q-Exactive Orbitrap MS/MS, imported into Compound Discoverer (CD) 3.1 software, matched through the online database, and manually checked. Finally, the in vitro chemical components of SBD were classified. Similarly, the mass spectrum data of SBD in the serum of normal rats and melasma model rats were also analyzed by CD 3.1 software. The in vitro identified Compound file of SBD was imported into the Expected Compounds and the Generate Expected Compounds project was selected. The SBD compounds were then chosen under the Compound Section. All phase I and II reaction types related to SBD components were selected, and the metabolic platform of CD 3.1 software was utilized to process the results and obtain possible metabolites. The metabolites were scored and products with high scores were subsequently screened. According to literature comparison, the final metabolites of SBD in both normal rats and melasma model rats were determined and comprehensively analyzed. The Melasma model rats were constructed through intramuscular injection of progesterone and ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) irradiation. The preventing and treating effect of SBD on melasma were evaluated by regulating inflammation, epidermal collagen content, and oxidative stress. Additionally, the effect of SBD on the Phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/Protein kinase B (Akt)/Glycogen synthase kinase 3ß (GSK3ß) pathway was investigated through Western blot (WB) to explore its underlying mechanism on whitening and removing melasma efficacy. RESULTS: Ultimately, 94 components were identified in SBD, including 41 flavonoids, 27 organic acids, and 9 glycosides, 3 terpenoids, 2 amides, 2 aldehydes, 1 phenylpropanoid and 9 other compounds. In the blood of normal rat group, a total of 24 prototype components and 61 metabolites were identified. Similarly, there were19 prototype components and 44 metabolites identified from the blood of melasma model rats. Pharmacodynamic experiment results indicated that SBD effectively reduced the incidence of melasma, prevent the loss of epidermal collagen, and elevate the activity of superoxide dismutase and decrease the malondialdehyde content in both liver and skin. Interestingly, the WB results demonstrated that SBD effectively activated PI3K/Akt/GSK3ß pathway, and down-regulated the expression of melanin-related proteins. CONCLUSIONS: For the first time, the components of SBD extracts, and its prototype components and metabolites in the blood of normal rats and melasma model rats were successfully identified by high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry with CD software. Additionally, the differences of in vivo components of SBD between normal rats and melasma model rats were analyzed. The preventive and therapeutic effect of SBD on melasma was verified in the melasma model rats induced by progesterone and UVB irradiation, and its mechanism was related to activating PI3K/Akt/GSK3ß pathway and downregulating the expression of melanin-related proteins. These results provide an experimental foundation for further research on the pharmacodynamic substance basis and pharmacodynamic mechanism of SBD, as well as developing new anti-melasma formula with SBD.

Quantification of Arbutin and its degradation products, hydroquinone and p-Benzoquinone, in hyperpigmentation topical formulation: Effect of extraction procedure and interference assessment.

The utilization of Hydroquinone (HQ) in over-the-counter skincare items is subject to restrictions. Consequently, Arbutin (AR) serves as a reliable alternative for addressing hyperpigmentation in non-prescription topical formulations. Nevertheless, AR undergoes decomposition into HQ and p-Benzoquinone (BZ) when exposed to temperature stress, ultraviolet light, or dilution in an acidic environment, all of which can induce skin toxicity. The intention of this paper is to investigate the effect of extraction procedure on the conversion of AR to HQ and or BZ and to evaluate kinetics of AR hydrolysis to HQ. Meanwhile this study aims to evaluate AR and BZ interference with the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) identification and assessment method for HQ Hydrolytic stress during extraction conditions underwent optimization through systematic screening tests. Subsequent assessment of the residual drug and its degradation products were achieved by HPLC method. The resulting data were meticulously fitted to various kinetic models. To analyze the potential interference of AR in HQ measurement using USP method, the standard concentrations of AR and HQ were analyzed through UV-VIS spectrophotometry. For enhanced certainty, a validated HPLC method analysis was also conducted. Notably, the acid hydrolysis of AR exhibited independence from its initial concentration. So, the hydrolytic degradation of AR exhibited a Zero-order kinetic profile. Furthermore, the proven interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometry method was identified within the context of the USP method. This study successfully utilized an adopted HPLC method for the concurrent quantification of AR, HQ, and BZ. The potential interference of AR in the UV-VIS spectrophotometric assay for HQ may lead to false results especially for regulatory purposes.

The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet-induced skin melanization model.

BACKGROUND: In Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance-related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid. METHODS: Primary skin irritation and skin-whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas. RESULTS: TEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment. CONCLUSIONS: TEST could be integrated into spot-fading and skin-whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.

Efficacy and tolerability of a depigmenting gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, phytic acid, and a mixture of hydroxy acids that targets the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis.

BACKGROUND: The diverse causes of hyperpigmentation and complex nature of melanogenesis make it a challenge to manage. Current approaches either fail to deliver effective pigmentation control or have undesirable safety profiles that preclude their long-term use. AIMS: To evaluate the capacity of a cosmetic gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, phytic acid, and a mixture of hydroxy acids that was designed to target the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis to attenuate melanin production in vitro and reduce hyperpigmentation clinically. METHODS: Capacity to reduce melanin production in vitro was determined in melanocyte-containing reconstructed human epidermis (RHEm). Clinical efficacy and skin tolerability following twice daily application were assessed in 35 subjects with slight to moderate facial hyperpigmentation by instrumental (VISIA®-CR, Mexameter®) and clinical (mMASI, clinical score, IGA for hyperpigmentation) evaluation on D14, D28, D56, and D84. Maintenance of pigmentation control was followed up 1 month after cessation of treatment on D112. RESULTS: In RHEm in vitro, melanin production was reduced by 50.0% from baseline (D0) on D14 (p < 0.001) and by 67.0% on D21 (p < 0.001). Clinical reductions from baseline in brown spots count (-9.0%; p < 0.05), brown spots area (-16.7%; p < 0.001), and the melanin index (-11.4%; p < 0.001) were observed within 14 days of use. Statistically significant improvements in all clinical parameters were achieved by D28. By the end of treatment on D84, the number and surface area of brown spots were reduced by 28.4% and 40.3% compared to D0, respectively (p < 0.001, both), the melanin index was reduced by 31.1% (p < 0.001), mMASI was reduced by 63.0% (p < 0.001), and skin luminosity was increased by 79.0% (p < 0.001). IGA was reduced from 2.3 on D0 to 1.3 on D84 (p < 0.001). Improvements to all these parameters were maintained until D112, 1 month after termination of treatment. The product also demonstrated very good skin tolerability. CONCLUSION: A gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, and hydroxy acids, designed to target the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis, demonstrates rapid, robust, and sustained pigmentation control in this cohort.

Skin lightening properties of zerumbone cream: A placebo-controlled study.

OBJECTIVE: Despite the demonstrated anti-melanogenic and UV protective effects of Zerumbone (ZER) in vitro, there is a lack of clinical trials that have been done to assess these properties. The primary objective of this study was to assess the effectiveness of ZER in lightening the skin tone of human participants with a single-blind approach. METHODS: Twenty-six participants were randomly assigned to two groups to investigate the application location (left or right volar forearm) for the placebo and ZER creams. Both creams were topically administered to the volar forearms twice daily over a duration of 4 weeks. Initial skin irritation was assessed before and 30 min after applying creams. The melanin and erythema levels were quantified with Mexameter MX 18. RESULTS: Twenty participants were included in the analysis. The cream formulation had excellent physical properties and was well-received by the participants. The initial skin irritation study results indicated that neither of the creams elicited an allergic reaction. The administration of ZER cream resulted in a statistically significant reduction in melanin levels (p < 0.05) after 1 week compared to the initial baseline. Furthermore, after 2 weeks of application, ZER cream demonstrated significant differences in melanin levels compared to placebo (p < 0.05). No adverse effects were observed in the group using ZER cream. CONCLUSION: ZER demonstrated significant potential as a skin-lightening agent.

The effect of emulgel preparation on the stability of Kojic acid in the topical anti-hyperpigmentation products.

BACKGROUND: The emulgel, a novel drug delivery system, merges emulsion and gel, offering advantages like enhanced stability, precise control over drug release kinetics, and increased drug absorption compared to emulsions alone. Kojic acid (KA) demonstrates potent inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, a crucial player in the melanin synthesis pathway. AIMS: The main objective of this experimental study is to formulate KA within an emulgel framework and assess its stability under various environmental conditions. METHODS: One percent of KA emulgel and 1% simple gel, serving as the control product, were supplemented with varying concentrations of sodium metabisulfite (SMBS) for its antioxidant properties. The formulations were segregated into four groups and subjected to diverse maintenance and stress conditions over a three-month period. Monthly evaluations of physicochemical alterations were conducted, initially employing digital photography, followed by the extraction of KA and subsequent quantification of its concentration through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). RESULTS: The best formulations for retaining KA among the prepared ones were the 0.25% SMBS KA emulgel and the 0.1% SMBS KA simple gel, capable of retaining 86% and 76% of the initial KA content under stress conditions, respectively (p < 0.0001). CONCLUSIONS: Regarding to this study, ideal storage condition for KA emulgel and simple gel is in the refrigerator temperatures. Moreover, optimal SMBS concentrations for stability enhancement are 0.25% for emulgel and 0.1% for the simple gel. A significant statistical difference was observed between refrigerated emulgel and simple gel in the retention of KA in the presence of optimum concentration of antioxidants (p < 0.0001).

Efficacy and safety of novel topical pigment-correcting regimen with biweekly diamond tip microdermabrasion procedures on facial hyperpigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Facial hyperpigmentation can negatively affect an individual's emotional and psychosocial well-being. AIMS: Assess safety and tolerability of a combination of microdermabrasion (DG) procedures using a novel brightening pro-infusion serum (EC-DG) with a targeted at-home treatment regimen in subjects with mild to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dark spots. PATIENTS/METHODS: This 12-week, open-label study enrolled 18 subjects (Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV) who underwent 6 in-office DG procedures with EC-DG (one procedure administered biweekly), along with daily topical application of a brightening treatment serum and dark spot cream. End points included change from baseline across multiple skin quality attributes and the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability assessments. RESULTS: The combination treatment was well tolerated and resulted in significant (p ≤ 0.05) improvements from baseline in radiance, tactile roughness, and moisturization/hydration immediately after the first treatment, in MASI score at day 3, and in overall hyperpigmentation at week 4. Most (94.1%) subjects were satisfied with treatment. CONCLUSIONS: DG procedures using EC-DG combined with a targeted at-home skincare regimen are effective and tolerable for treating facial hyperpigmentation across a broad range of skin types.

Skin-lightening products and Jordanian women: Beliefs and practice. A cross-sectional study.

BACKGROUND: The use of skin-lightening products (SLPs) among Jordanian women has immensely increased and healthcare professionals have a vital role in raising public awareness of SLPs. The aim of this study is to identify SLPs practices among Jordanian women and their basic knowledge of the agents and the side effects associated with using these products. METHODS: A cross-sectional study conducted during October to December of 2022. Jordanian women above 18 years of age were invited to participate via a survey link. Descriptive statistics were used, and logistic regression was applied to screen for variables affecting the knowledge score of the participants. RESULTS: The mean age of the study participants (n = 384) was 32.04 (SD = 12.678). Results demonstrated that more than half of the participants (n = 193) reported current or past use of SLPs. Additionally, less than one-fifth (18.2%) of the participants (n = 70) reported previously experiencing some side-effects after using SLPs. About 90% of participants thought that these side-effects were caused by the active ingredients in SLPs. Most of the participants were able to identify some of the active ingredients used in SLPs such as Vitamin C (87.8%) and Hydroquinone (62.0%). It was also found that young participants, and those employed, or university students had higher knowledge scores of SLPs' active ingredients, and of their side-effects. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated that Jordanian women are adequately informed about skin-lightening products. Moreover, the practices revealed an educated pattern of action when obtaining information regarding SLPs. Fundamentally, healthcare providers should be influential in educating consumers on the proper use. Strict guidelines and policies should target the practices concerned with these products.

Quality assessment of hydroquinone, mercury, and arsenic in skin-lightening cosmetics marketed in Ilorin, Nigeria.

Hydroquinone, Mercury (Hg), and Arsenic (As) are hazardous to health upon long-term exposure. Hydroquinone, Hg, and As were analysed in skin-lightening cosmetics randomly purchased from different cosmetic outlets within the Ilorin metropolis, Nigeria. The amount of hydroquinone in the samples was determined using a UV-spectrophotometry method at 290 nm. Hg and As were quantified using atomic absorption spectrophotometry (AAS). UV-spectrophotometry method validation showed excellent linearity (r2 = 0.9993), with limits of detection (0.75 µg/mL), limits of quantification (2.28 µg/mL), relative standard deviation (0.01-0.35%), and recovery (95.85-103.56%) in the concentration range of 5-50 µg/mL. Similarly, r2, LOD, and LOQ for Hg and As were 0.9983 and 0.9991, (0.5 and 1.0 µg/L) and 1.65 and 3.3 µg/L) respectively. All the samples contained hydroquinone, Hg and As in varying amounts. The amounts of hydroquinone, Hg and As present were in the ranges of 1.9-3.3%, 0.08-2.52 µg/g and 0.07-5.30 µg/g respectively. Only three of the analysed samples contained hydroquinone within the permissible limit of 2.0% w/w in cosmetic products. All the samples analysed contained mercury and arsenic in varying amounts. The need to periodically monitor the levels of hydroquinone, mercury, and arsenic in skin-lightening cosmetics marketed in Nigeria is recommended.

Phytochemical study of Boswellia dalzielii oleo-gum resin and evaluation of its biological properties.

Boswellia dalzielii is a resin-producing tree endemic to West and Central Africa, used by local populations for various medicinal purposes. In this study, B. dalzielii gum resin was analyzed by GC-MS and UHPLC-MS to identify and quantify volatile and non-volatile compounds. Its main volatile constituents were α-pinene (54.9%), followed by α-thujene (4.4%) and α-phellandren-8-ol (4.0%). Pentacyclic triterpenoids such as ß-boswellic acids and their derivatives were quantified by UHPLC-MS and their content was shown to reach around 22% of the gum resin. Since some of the volatile and non-volatile compounds identified in this work are known to possess biological effects, the bioactivities of B. dalzielii ethanolic extract, essential oil, as well as fractions of the oil and extract were evaluated. Some of these samples exhibited interesting anti-inflammatory properties, and their antioxidant, anti-ageing and skin-bleaching activities were also tested.

Targeting tyrosinase in hyperpigmentation: Current status, limitations and future promises.

Hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing dermatologic condition. Since tyrosinase (TYR) plays an essential role in melanogenesis, its inhibition is considered a logical approach along with other therapeutic methods to prevent the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Thus, TYR inhibitors are a tempting target as the medicinal and cosmetic active agents of hyperpigmentation disorder. Among TYR inhibitors, hydroquinone is a traditional lightening agent that is commonly used in clinical practice. However, despite good efficacy, prolonged use of hydroquinone is associated with side effects. To overcome these shortcomings, new approaches in targeting TYR and treating hyperpigmentation are desperately requiredessentialneeded. In line with this purpose, several non-hydroquinone lightening agents have been developed and suggested as hydroquinone alternatives. In addition to traditional approaches, nanomedicine and nanotheranostic platforms have been recently proposed in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In this review, we discuss the available strategies for the management of hyperpigmentation with a focus on TYR inhibition. In addition, alternative treatment options to hydroquinone are discussed. Finally, we present nano-based strategies to improve the therapeutic effect of drugs prescribed to patients with skin disorders.

Avaliação da rotulagem de cosméticos clareadores de pele comercializados em Juazeiro, Bahia, Brasil / Evaluation of the labeling of skin lightening cosmetics marketed in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil

A hiperpigmentação da pele, principalmente na região facial, resulta em um incômodo estético que afeta a qualidade de vida do indivíduo, levando a busca por produtos clareadores. Este estudo avaliou a conformidade dos rótulos de cosméticos comercializados como "produtos clareadores de pele", bem como a existência de substâncias clareadoras proibidas neste tipo de produto. Foi realizada uma análise transversal descritiva qualitativa no período de abril a maio de 2022, em busca por cosméticos comercializados em estabelecimentos farmacêuticos e lojas de produtos cosméticos localizadas no município de Juazeiro/BA. Foram selecionados 18 produtos e os desvios de rotulagem identificados com base na legislação utilizada vigente à época do estudo, foram: ausência de informações sobre advertências/restrições de uso e número de registro incompleto, equivalente a 16,7% (n = 3) das amostras. A hidroquinona, proibida nesse tipo de produto, foi encontrada em um cosmético (5,5%). Embora a maioria das amostras analisadas esteja em conformidade com as exigências legais, os resultados evidenciam descumprimentos, indicando a necessidade de uma fiscalização mais rigorosa a fim de evitar possíveis danos à saúde do usuário.

Skin hyperpigmentation, particularly in the facial region, can be an aesthetic nuisance that affects an individual's quality of life, leading them to seek out whitening products. This study evaluated the compliance of cosmetics labels marketed as "skin lightening products", and assessed the presence of whitening substances prohibited in this type of product. A qualitative, descriptive, cross-sectional analysis was conducted between April and May 2022 in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil, focusing on cosmetics sold in pharmaceutical establishments and cosmetic product stores. Eighteen products were selected, and labeling deviations identified based on the legislation in force at the time of the study. These included a lack of information on warnings/use restrictions and incomplete registration numbers, affecting 16.7% (n = 3) of the samples. Hydroquinone, prohibited in this type of product by the legislation, was detected in one cosmetic (5.5%). Although most of the analyzed samples comply with legal requirements, the observed non-compliance highlights the need for more stringent inspection to prevent potential harm to user's health.

Avaliação da rotulagem de cosméticos clareadores de pele comercializados em Juazeiro, Bahia, Brasil / Evaluation of the labeling of skin lightening cosmetics marketed in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil

A hiperpigmentação da pele, principalmente na região facial, resulta em um incômodo estético que afeta a qualidade de vida do indivíduo, levando a busca por produtos clareadores. Este estudo avaliou a conformidade dos rótulos de cosméticos comercializados como "produtos clareadores de pele", bem como a existência de substâncias clareadoras proibidas neste tipo de produto. Foi realizada uma análise transversal descritiva qualitativa no período de abril a maio de 2022, em busca por cosméticos comercializados em estabelecimentos farmacêuticos e lojas de produtos cosméticos localizadas no município de Juazeiro/BA. Foram selecionados 18 produtos e os desvios de rotulagem identificados com base na legislação utilizada vigente à época do estudo, foram: ausência de informações sobre advertências/restrições de uso e número de registro incompleto, equivalente a 16,7% (n = 3) das amostras. A hidroquinona, proibida nesse tipo de produto, foi encontrada em um cosmético (5,5%). Embora a maioria das amostras analisadas esteja em conformidade com as exigências legais, os resultados evidenciam descumprimentos, indicando a necessidade de uma fiscalização mais rigorosa a fim de evitar possíveis danos à saúde do usuário. (AU)

Skin hyperpigmentation, particularly in the facial region, can be an aesthetic nuisance that affects an individual's quality of life, leading them to seek out whitening products. This study evaluated the compliance of cosmetics labels marketed as "skin lightening products", and assessed the presence of whitening substances prohibited in this type of product. A qualitative, descriptive, cross-sectional analysis was conducted between April and May 2022 in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil, focusing on cosmetics sold in pharmaceutical establishments and cosmetic product stores. Eighteen products were selected, and labeling deviations identified based on the legislation in force at the time of the study. These included a lack of information on warnings/use restrictions and incomplete registration numbers, affecting 16.7% (n = 3) of the samples. Hydroquinone, prohibited in this type of product by the legislation, was detected in one cosmetic (5.5%). Although most of the analyzed samples comply with legal requirements, the observed non-compliance highlights the need for more stringent inspection to prevent potential harm to user's health. (AU)

Knowledge, perceptions, practices, promotive factors, and health risks awareness of African Basotho women towards skin lightening products: a cross-sectional survey.

Introduction: the use of skin lightening products (SLPs) by women is poorly documented in Africa, with statistics from some countries entirely missing. This study assessed knowledge, perceptions, practices and factors associated with health risk awareness of African Basotho women towards SLPs. Methods: this was a questionnaire-based cross-sectional study based on convenience sampling of females in secondary/high schools, universities, factories and business offices in Maseru City, Lesotho. Analysis of the differences in knowledge (adequate ≥50% score), perceptions, and practices between four participant groups was based on ANOVA, p<0.05. Associations between sociodemographic variables and the use of SLPs were performed using logistic regression model in SPSS version 27. Results: a total of 468 participants out of 496 responders qualified for data analysis based on predefined data cleaning criteria. Knowledge about SLPs was adequate (78.2%, n=468). By proportion, the main sources of the SLPs were supermarkets (67.6%, n=183) and pharmacy stores (41.9%). About 43.7% (n=468) of the participants used SLPs, with the factory workers mostly associated with SLPs use (aOR: 2.91, 95% CI 1.15-7.40; p=0.02). The majority (53.4%, n=131) of users had inadequate knowledge about the link between skin lightening and skin problems. The most common reasons for use of SLPs were rash (pimples, blemishes) (43.9%, n=107), dry skin (41.1%) and skin reddening (33.6%). Conclusion: there was adequate knowledge and moderate practice of skin lightening among African Basotho women. Public awareness campaigns and strict regulations are required to address the problem of SLPs use.

Neurog1-Derived Peptides RMNE1 and DualPep-Shine Penetrate the Skin and Inhibit Melanin Synthesis by Regulating MITF Transcription.

Anti-pigmentation peptides have been developed as alternative skin-lightening agents to replace conventional chemicals that have adverse effects on the skin. However, the maximum size of these peptides is often limited by their low skin and cell penetration. To address this issue, we used our intra-dermal delivery technology (IDDT) platform to identify peptides with hypo-pigmenting and high cell-penetrating activity. Using our cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) from the IDDT platform, we identified RMNE1 and its derivative RMNE3, "DualPep-Shine", which showed levels of α-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin inhibition comparable to the conventional tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid. In addition, DualPep-Shine was delivered into the nucleus and regulated the gene expression levels of melanogenic enzymes by inhibiting the promoter activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M). Using a 3D human skin model, we found that DualPep-Shine penetrated the lower region of the epidermis and reduced the melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, DualPep-Shine showed high safety with little immunogenicity, indicating its potential as a novel cosmeceutical ingredient and anti-pigmentation therapeutic agent.