Comoclathrin, a novel potent skin-whitening agent produced by endophytic Comoclathris strains associated with Andalusia desert plants.

As part of our screening program for the discovery of molecules of microbial origin with skin-whitening activity, 142 diverse fungal endophytes from a wide variety of Andalusia arid plants were screened, applying the OSMAC approach. The fungal strains CF-090361 and CF-090766, isolated from xerophytic plants, were selected as the most promising, while phylogenetic analysis revealed that both strains could represent a new species within the genus Comoclathris. The effect of different fermentation conditions on the production of tyrosinase inhibitory activity was examined, in order to identify the optimum cultivation conditions. LCMS based metabolomics was applied to determine significant differences between the strains and fermentation conditions, and to identify potential bioactive secondary metabolites. Bioassay-guided purification of the main active components led to the isolation of three new compounds (1-3), along with the known compounds graphostrin B (4) and brevianamide M (5). Compound 1 (Comoclathrin) demonstrated the strongest anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50 0.16 µΜ), which was 90-times higher than kojic acid (IC50 14.07 µΜ) used as positive control. Additionally, comoclathrin showed no significant cytotoxicity against a panel of cancer cell lines (HepG2, A2058, A549, MCF-7 and MIA PaCa-2) and normal BJ fibroblasts. These properties render comoclathrin an excellent development candidate as whitening agent.

Hispanic/Latinos and Skincare: Disparities in Product Development, Marketing, and Toxicity.

“Hispanic” and “Latino” (also known as Mestizo) describe a diverse racial and ethnic group, with a range of cultures, languages, and biological ancestry. It includes individuals of Mexican, Central-to-South American, and Spanish-Caribbean (eg, Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Dominican) descent.1 Individuals of Hispanic/Latino race and ethnicity represent a heterogenous group of people with different skin tones and Fitzpatrick phototypes. Hispanic/Latinos are the fastest growing population in the United States (US) - projected to increase from 55 million in 2014 to 119 million in 2060, an increase of 115%.2 By 2060, more than one-quarter (29%) of the US is projected to be Hispanic/Latino.2.

Enzymatic decolorization of melanin by lignin peroxidase from Phanerochaete chrysosporium.

Skin darkening results as a consequence of the accumulation of skin pigment melanin. To combat this, the amplitude of skin lightening agents are commercially available, most of which inhibit melanin synthesis. Decolorization of melanin is an alternative method of skin lightening. In this study, we show that lignin peroxidase (LiP), an extracellular enzyme purified from Phanerochaete chrysosporium NK-1 isolated from a forest soil can effectively degrade and decolorize melanin in vitro. Decolorization conditions including pH, temperature, incubation time, enzyme concentration, and mediator addition were investigated to optimize the reaction conditions. The results indicate that pH 3, 40 °C, 15 IU/ml, and 10 h incubation were the optimal conditions for the decolorization of the melanin. The use of the mediator, veratryl alcohol was also found effective to enhance the efficacy of the melanin decolonization, with up to 92% decolorization. The scanning electron microscopy results showed void spaces on the treated melanin granules as compared to the untreated sample, indicating the degradation of melanin. Changes in the fingerprint region of the melanin were observed. Between wavenumbers 1500-500 cm-1, for example, the presence of new peaks in the treated melanin at 1513, 1464, and 1139 cm-1 CH2, CH3 bend and C-O-C stretch represented structural changes. A new peak at 2144 cm-1 (alkynyl C≡C stretch) was also detected in the decolorized melanin. The cytotoxicity study has shown that the treated melanin and LiP have low cytotoxic effects; however, the mediator of veratryl alcohol could result in high mortality which suggests that its use should be meticulously tested in formulating health and skincare products. The findings of the study suggest that LiP produced by Phanerochaete chrysosporium has the potential to be used in the medical and cosmetic industries, particularly for the development of biobased cosmetic whitening agents.

Identification of new arylsulfide derivatives as anti-melanogenic agents in a zebrafish model.

A series of aryl sulfide derivatives was synthesized and evaluated for their anti-melanogenic activities. Several compounds, including 3e, 3i and 3q exhibited good anti-melanogenic activities. Among the derivatives, compound 3i showed good inhibitory effects against melanin synthesis and showed no toxicity in reconstituted human eye and skin tissues.

Formulation and evaluation of antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of Polygonum amplexicaule herbal gel.

Medicinal plants are long been used for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Among medicinal plants, Polygonum amplexicaule of family polygonaceae has traditional use in medicines and skin care. P. amplexicaule belongs to genus Polygonum that contains several important phytochemicals and considered as a rich source of antioxidants. The present study was designed to formulate herbal gel containing P. amplexicaule extract and evaluate its different physical properties as well as antioxidants and antityrosinase activities. Chitosan gel base was used as gelling agent and different gel formulations were prepared by different concentrations of extracts and polymers. Physical properties like pH, colour, odour, appearance and homogeneity, spreadability, extrudability and stability were optimized and analysed. A stable gel formulation containing 1% chitosan gel base and 5% plant extract was prepared that showed good appearance and homogeneity, easily spread ability and excellent extrudability. This gel formulation was tested for antioxidant and skin whitening properties by DPPH free radical scavenging assay and tyrosinase inhibition assay respectively and ascorbic acid was used as reference standard. DPPH scavenging activity with an IC50 value of 0.446 mg/mL and tyrosinase inhibition activity with an IC50 value of 0.805 mg/mL was observed and results indicated that this herbal gel formulation has a good potential for cosmetic use.

Antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects of (E)-2,3-diphenylacrylic acid derivatives.

During our continued search for strong skin whitening agents over the past ten years, we have investigated the efficacies of many tyrosinase inhibitors containing a common (E)-ß-phenyl-α,ß-unsaturated carbonyl scaffold, which we found to be essential for the effective inhibition of mushroom and mammalian tyrosinases. In this study, we explored the tyrosinase inhibitory effects of 2,3-diphenylacrylic acid (2,3-DPA) derivatives, which also possess the (E)-ß-phenyl-α,ß-unsaturated carbonyl motif. We synthesized fourteen (E)-2,3-DPA derivatives 1a-1n and one (Z)-2,3-DPA-derivative 1l' using a Perkin reaction with phenylacetic acid and appropriate substituted benzaldehydes. In our mushroom tyrosinase assay, 1c showed higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity (76.43 ±â€¯3.53%, IC50 = 20.04 ±â€¯1.91 µM) with than the other 2,3-DPA derivatives or kojic acid (21.56 ±â€¯2.93%, IC50 = 30.64 ±â€¯1.27 µM). Our mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory results were supported by our docking study, which showed compound 1c (-7.2 kcal/mole) exhibited stronger binding affinity for mushroom tyrosinase than kojic acid (-5.7 kcal/mole). In B16F10 melanoma cells (a murine cell-line), 1c showed no cytotoxic effect up to a concentration of 25 µM and exhibited greater tyrosinase inhibitory activity (68.83%) than kojic acid (49.39%). In these cells, arbutin (a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor used as the positive control) only inhibited tyrosinase by 42.67% even at a concentration of 400 µM. Furthermore, at 25 µM, 1c reduced melanin contents in B16F10 melanoma cells by 24.3% more than kojic acid (62.77% vs. 38.52%). These results indicate 1c is a promising candidate treatment for pigmentation-related diseases and potential skin whitening agents.

Design, synthesis and anti-melanogenic effect of cinnamamide derivatives.

Pigmentation disorders are attributed to excessive melanin which can be produced by tyrosinase. Therefore, tyrosinase is supposed to be a vital target for the treatment of disorders associated with overpigmentation. Based on our previous findings that an (E)-ß-phenyl-α,ß-unsaturated carbonyl scaffold can play a key role in the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, and the fact that cinnamic acid is a safe natural substance with a scaffolded structure, it was speculated that appropriate cinnamic acid derivatives may exhibit potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Thus, ten cinnamamides were designed, and synthesized by using a Horner-Emmons olefination as the key step. Cinnamamides 4 (93.72% inhibition), 9 (78.97% inhibition), and 10 (59.09% inhibition) with either a 2,4-dihydroxyphenyl, or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl substituent showed much higher mushroom tyrosinase inhibition at 25 µM than kojic acid (18.81% inhibition), used as a positive control. Especially, the two cinnamamides 4 and 9 having a 2,4-dihydroxyphenyl group showed the strongest inhibition. Docking simulation with tyrosinase revealed that these three cinnamamides, 4, 9, and 10, bind to the active site of tyrosinase more strongly than kojic acid. Cell-based experiments carried out using B16F10 murine skin melanoma cells demonstrated that all three cinnamamides effectively inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin production in the cells without cytotoxicity. There was a close correlation between cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content, indicating that the inhibitory effect of the three cinnamamides on melanin production is mainly attributed to their capability for cellular tyrosinase inhibition. These results imply that cinnamamides having the (E)-ß-phenyl-α,ß-unsaturated carbonyl scaffolds are promising candidates for skin-lighting agents.

Substantial evidence for the rhododendrol-induced generation of hydroxyl radicals that causes melanocyte cytotoxicity and induces chemical leukoderma.

BACKGROUND: Rhododendrol (4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol) has been used as a lightening/whitening cosmetic but was recently reported to induce leukoderma. Although rhododendrol has been shown to be transformed by tyrosinase to hydroxyl-rhododendrol, which is cytotoxic to melanocytes, its detailed mechanism of action including the involvement of reactive oxygen species is not clearly understood. OBJECTIVE: To confirm the relationship of hydroxyl radical generation to melanocyte cytotoxicity induced by rhododendrol, this study was performed. METHODS: An electron spin resonance method with a highly sensitive detection system was utilized to monitor hydroxyl radicals generated from two distinct normal human epidermal melanocyte lines with different levels of tyrosinase activity after the addition of various amounts of rhododendrol. Cytotoxicity of rhododendrol was analyzed by AlamarBlue assay under the same condition. RESULTS: Hydroxyl radicals were generated depending on the amounts of rhododendrol and/or tyrosinase. After the correlation between hydroxyl radical generation with melanocyte viability was confirmed, an inhibitor of oxidative stress, N-acetyl cysteine, was shown to dramatically diminish rhododendrol-induced generation of hydroxyl radicals and melanocyte cytotoxicity by increasing glutathione levels. In contrast, buthionine sulfoximine, which depletes glutathione, augmented both of those parameters. CONCLUSION: Suppressing oxidative stress would prevent and/or mitigate some phenol derivative-induced leukoderma by avoiding hydroxyl radical-initiated melanocyte cytotoxicity.

4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol)-induced melanocyte cytotoxicity is enhanced by UVB exposure through generation of oxidative stress.

4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol, RD), a skin-whitening agent, was reported to cause skin depigmentation in some users, which is attributed to its cytotoxicity to melanocyte. It was reported that cytotoxicity to melanocyte is possibly mediated by oxidative stress in a tyrosinase activity-dependent manner. We examined the effect of UV radiation (UVR) on RD-induced melanocyte cytotoxicity as an additional aggravating factor. UVR enhanced RD-induced cytotoxicity in normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) via the induction of endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress. Increased generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) was detected. Pretreatment with N-acetyl cysteine (NAC), antioxidant and precursor of glutathione significantly attenuated ER stress-induced cytotoxicity in NHEMs treated with RD and UVR. Increase in cysteinyl-RD-catechol and RD-pheomelanin in NHEMs treated with RD and UVR suggested that, after UVR excitation, RD or RD metabolites are potent ROS-generating substances and that the tendency to produce RD-pheomelanin during melanogenesis amplifies ROS generation in melanocytes. Our results help to elucidate the development mechanisms of RD-induced leukoderma and provide information for innovation of safe skin-whitening compounds.

Biochemical Mechanism of Rhododendrol-Induced Leukoderma.

RS-4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol (RD))-a skin-whitening ingredient-was reported to induce leukoderma in some consumers. We have examined the biochemical basis of the RD-induced leukoderma by elucidating the metabolic fate of RD in the course of tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation. We found that the oxidation of racemic RD by mushroom tyrosinase rapidly produces RD-quinone, which gives rise to secondary quinone products. Subsequently, we confirmed that human tyrosinase is able to oxidize both enantiomers of RD. We then showed that B16 cells exposed to RD produce high levels of RD-pheomelanin and protein-SH adducts of RD-quinone. Our recent studies showed that RD-eumelanin-an oxidation product of RD-exhibits a potent pro-oxidant activity that is enhanced by ultraviolet-A radiation. In this review, we summarize our biochemical findings on the tyrosinase-dependent metabolism of RD and related studies by other research groups. The results suggest two major mechanisms of cytotoxicity to melanocytes. One is the cytotoxicity of RD-quinone through binding with sulfhydryl proteins that leads to the inactivation of sulfhydryl enzymes and protein denaturation that leads to endoplasmic reticulum stress. The other mechanism is the pro-oxidant activity of RD-derived melanins that leads to oxidative stress resulting from the depletion of antioxidants and the generation of reactive oxygen radicals.

Risk assessment of skin lightening cosmetics containing hydroquinone.

Following reports on potential risks of hydroquinone (HQ), HQ for skin lightening has been banned or restricted in Europe and the US. In contrast, HQ is not listed as a prohibited or limited ingredient for cosmetic use in Japan, and many HQ cosmetics are sold without restriction. To assess the risk of systemic effects of HQ, we examined the rat skin permeation rates of four HQ (0.3%, 1.0%, 2.6%, and 3.3%) cosmetics. The permeation coefficients ranged from 1.2 × 10-9 to 3.1 × 10-7 cm/s, with the highest value superior than the HQ aqueous solution (1.6 × 10-7 cm/s). After dermal application of the HQ cosmetics to rats, HQ in plasma was detected only in the treatment by highest coefficient cosmetic. Absorbed HQ levels treated with this highest coefficient cosmetic in humans were estimated by numerical methods, and we calculated the margin of exposure (MOE) for the estimated dose (0.017 mg/kg-bw/day in proper use) to a benchmark dose for rat renal tubule adenomas. The MOE of 559 is judged to be in a range safe for the consumer. However, further consideration may be required for regulation of cosmetic ingredients.

Potential health consequences of applying mercury-containing skin-lightening creams during pregnancy and lactation periods.

Many studies have highlighted the widespread use of skin-lightening creams containing mercury by women during and after pregnancy to remove dark spots. Women, especially pregnant and lactating mothers using these products are at risk of mercury poisoning because sometimes it has no clinical symptoms, particularly during early exposure. Studies have shown that prenatal and postnatal mercury exposure can cause permanent neurological damage in children. Furthermore, mercury can cause women infertility and birth defects. Even though several studies have examined the reproductive and/or developmental consequences of gestational and lactational mercury exposure from fish consumption and/or dental amalgam, no studies have assessed the possible effects of the long-term use of mercury-containing skin-lightening products by women of childbearing age on their pregnancy outcome and children's health. This commentary aims to collate information on the popular use of mercury-containing skin-lightening creams and sheds the light to the readers about the limitations of the available data on its impact during a prenatal and/or postnatal period. There is an urgent need to assess the adverse health effects of applying these products during pregnancy or lactation on child growth and development through birth cohort studies. Until data from these studies are available, women should be advised not to use topical skin-lightening creams during pregnancy and lactation.

Effects of rhododendrol and its metabolic products on melanocytic cell growth.

BACKGROUND: Rhododendrol (RD), a skin-whitening agent, is believed to be associated with cases of cosmetics-related leukoderma that have been reported in Japan. Recently, we have shown that RD is catalyzed by tyrosinase to produce putative toxic metabolites RD-catechol and RD-cyclic catechol. OBJECTIVE: To examine the cytotoxicity and production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in melanocytic cells by RD and its metabolic products. METHODS: The growth inhibitory effect of RD or its metabolite on the normal human epidermal melanocyte (NHEM) and B16F1 cells was assessed by cell counting or WST assay. ROS production was detected by flow cytometry and confocal microscopy after cells were treated with 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein and RD or its metabolite. RESULTS: Growth of NHEM derived from African American (NHEMb) and B16F1 cells was suppressed by 300µM or more RD. Growth inhibitory activity of RD (IC50 of B16F1: 671µM) was weaker than hydroquinone (IC50 of B16F1: 28.3µM) or resveratrol (IC50 of B16F1: 27.1µM). Flow cytometric analysis detected ROS production in the NHEMb and B16F1 cells exposed to RD. However, neither RD nor H2O2 increased the subG1 fraction of these melanocytic cells. RD-catechol and RD-cyclic catechol inhibited growth of NHEMb and B16F1 cells much more strongly than did RD. RD-catechol, as well as RD, produced ROS detected by both flow cytometry and immunostaining, while RD-cyclic catechol produced a hardly detectable amount of ROS in B16F1 cells. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that RD exerts the cytotoxicity in melanocytic cells through its oxidative metabolites and that ROS plays a role in RD-mediated cytotoxicity.

N-Nicotinoyl tyramine, a novel niacinamide derivative, inhibits melanogenesis by suppressing MITF gene expression.

We synthesized and investigated the inhibitory effects of a novel niacinamide derivative, N-nicotinoyltyramine (NNT) on melanogenesis. NNT inhibited melanin production in B16F10 murine melanoma cells stimulated with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), in human melanocyte and in three-dimensional cultured human skin model. NNT did not affect the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, but acted as an inhibitor of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase expressions in B16F10 cells. These findings suggest that the hypopigmentary effect of NNT results from the down-regulation of MITF and subsequently of tyrosinase, although NNT did not directly inhibit tyrosinase activity. In addition, safety of NNT was verified through performing neural stem cell morphology assay and Human repeated insult patch test as whitening agent. Our findings indicate that NNT may be a potential and non-skin irritant whitening agent for use in cosmetics and in the medical treatment of pigmentary disorders.

"The fairer the better?" Use of potentially toxic skin bleaching products.

BACKGROUND: Skin bleaching is a widespread phenomenon in spite of their potentially toxic health effects. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to determine if such products are used in Sweden in particular by pregnant women, furthermore to explore immigrant women's view skin bleaching. METHODS: 455 pregnant women completed a questionnaire, which were statistically analysed. Focus groups and individual interviews were conducted with immigrant women, content analysis was used to assess the data. RESULTS: Skin bleaching products were used by 2.6% of pregnant women, significantlly more by women born in non-European countries. Motivating factors were associated with the concept of beauty together with social and economic advantages. The women had low awareness of the potential health risks of the products. Regulations on the trade of skin bleaching products have not effectively reduced the availability of the products in Sweden nor the popularity of skin bleaching. CONCLUSION: There is need for further research especially among pregnant women and possible effects on newborns. Products should be tested for toxicity. Public health information should be developed and health care providers educated and aware of this practice, due to their potential negative health implications.

Etude des complications de la peau a Nouakchott; Mauritanie

Dans le but d'etudier les complications de la DA en Mauritanie; nous avons mene une enquete transversale descriptive chez les femmes consultant dans le service de Dermatologie du CHN de Nouakchott de Juillet a Septembre 2012. L'objectif de l'etude etait de determiner la prevalence des complications de la DA. Sur les 394 malades ayant consulte durant la periode d'etude; nous avons recense 164 utilisatrices de produits depigmentant. L'age moyen des utilisatrices de DA est de 30;38 ans avec des extremes de 13 et 70 ans. Les niveaux d'etude les plus representes sont le primaire dans 40;2 et le secondaire dans 41;5. La majorite des utilisatrices sont de l'ethnie maure blanc dans 34;8suivi de l'ethnie pulaar dans 26;8. 56 des patientes sont mariees suivi des celibataires dans 24. 52 des patientes mariees affirment que leurs conjoints desapprouvent cette pratique. 49;4 des patientes s'adonnent a la DA pour etre belle. 96;3 de ces utilisatrices avaient une ou plusieurs complications. Les complications notees lors de cette etude sont a type de dermatophyties (30;5); de folliculites superficielles ou profondes (7;9); de dermohypodermites bacteriennes (erysipele : 2;4); d'ochronose exogene (26;2); de taches noires (83;5. La principale motivation est esthetique (49;4). Parmi les utilisatrices; 73;8 connaissent les effets secondaires sans que cela ne les dissuadent de cette pratique. Le plus souvent ces effets secondaires ne motivent pas une consultation et sont bien supportes par les patients qui les acceptent en tan t que rancon de la DA. Malgre la prevalence elevee de sujets a peau claire en Mauritanie la DA reste une pratique courante

Effect of novel cyclohexane diester and benzene diester derivatives on melanogenesis.

In order to investigate potent whitening agents, we synthesized 15 cyclohexane diester derivatives and 15 benzene diester derivatives. To evaluate their structure-cytotoxicity relationships, we performed cell cytotoxicity tests on B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. To understand their whitening effects, melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activities were performed. In most cases, cell cytotoxicity was observed to be lower in 1,3-diester than in 1,2- and 1,4-diesters; when it came to the structural isomer of the side chain, all derivatives except the 1,2-cyclohexane diester derivatives showed lower cell cytotoxicity in the branch type of the side chain than in the linear type. Among the compounds evaluated, the compounds cyclohexane-1,3-diyl bis(decanoate), cyclohexane-1,4-diyl dioctanoate, and 1,3-phenylene bis (2-ethylhexanoate) emerged as potent melanin synthesis inhibitors. Our goal was to determine the expression levels of proteins involved in melanogenesis, Western blotting and RT-PCR showing that these compounds decreased tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 while demonstrating significantly low cytotoxicity.