Evaluation of novel cosmetic shampoo formulations against Malassezia species: Preliminary results of anti-dandruff shampoo formulations.

OBJECTIVES: Malassezia species are common, clinically relevant, and lipid-dependent yeasts of humans. They are also the leading causes of the dandruff problem of humans, and the azoles are used primarily in their topical and systemic treatment. Resistance to azoles is an emerging problem among Malassezia sp., which indicates the need of new drug assessments that will be effective against dandruff and limit the use of azoles and other agents in treatment. Among them, the efficacy of various combinations of piroctone olamine and climbazole against Malassezia sp. is highly important. Here, we assessed the efficacies of various piroctone olamine and climbazole formulations against Malassezia sp. in comparison with ketoconazole. METHODS: A total of nine formulations were included in the study, where each formulation was prepared from different concentrations of piroctone olamine and climbazole and both. All formulations contained the same ingredients as water, surfactants, hair conditioning agents, and preservatives. Malassezia furfur CBS1878, Malassezia globosa CBS7874, and Malassezia sympodialis CBS9570 were tested for antifungal susceptibility of each formulation by agar diffusion method. Sizes of the inhibition zones were compared with standard medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole, and the data were analyzed by Dunnett's multiple-comparison test. RESULTS: For all Malassezia sp. strains, climbazole 0.5% and piroctone olamine/climbazole (0.1%/0.1% and 0.1%/0.5%) combinations were found to have the same effect as the medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole. Piroctone olamine/climbazole 1.0%/0.1% formulation showed the same efficacy as 2% ketoconazole on M. furfur and M. sympodialis, while 0.1%/0.5% formulation to only M. furfur. For M. globosa, none of the formulations tested were as effective as ketoconazole. CONCLUSION: The species distribution of Malassezia sp. varies depending on the anatomical location on the host. According to the results of this study, climbazole and piroctone olamine combinations seem to be promising options against the dandruff problem with their high antifungal/anti dandruff efficacy.

Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.

Novel anti-dandruff shampoo incorporated with ketoconazole-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract.

BACKGROUND: Dandruff caused by Malassezia furfur is a prevailing fungal infection. Although ketoconazole (KTZ) is widely intended for anti-dandruff treatment, poor solubility, and epidermal permeability limits its use and the marketed KTZ shampoo adversely effects scalp and hair. OBJECTIVE: To prepare a novel shampoo loaded with KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract and evaluate its antifungal activity. METHODS: The KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles was prepared by green synthesis and was characterized by UV, FTIR, XRD, and the drug entrapment efficiency was investigated. The antifungal activity of the nanoparticles with respect to standard drug, KTZ was tested against Malassezia furfur. Further, a novel antidandruff shampoo was developed by incorporating the prepared nanoparticles into the shampoo base. RESULTS: The formation of KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles was confirmed by UV and FTIR analysis. XRD analysis confirmed the amorphous phase of KTZ in nanoparticles. The drug entrapment efficiency was found to be 91.84%. The prepared nanoparticles showed enhanced activity against Malassezia furfur compared to drug of choice, KTZ (1%). The evaluation of shampoo showed an ideal result. CONCLUSION: KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles loaded novel shampoo in comparison to marketed anti-dandruff shampoo could be an effective alternate for the treatment of dandruff.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of hair cosmetics using the hemispherical directional reflectance method.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each. RESULTS: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair.

Comparative study of instrumental measurement and sensory evaluation methods for the repairing effect of mildly damaged hair bundles.

OBJECTIVE: This study explores the applicability and scientific accuracy of instrument measurements in repairing hair products on slightly damaged hair bundles. MATERIALS AND METHOD: Sixty hair bundles mildly damaged with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia standards were divided into two groups: the treatment and control groups (30 hair bundles each). The treatment group used commercial hair care essential oil, whereas the control group used tap water to treat the damage. The two groups were measured using an instrument before and after the product application. The objective indicators included the gloss of hair, along with hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient, and against hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient. At the same time, two evaluators conducted sensory evaluations on the gloss and frizz levels of the hair bundles. Therefore, data comparison and verification were carried out together with instrumental measurement data. RESULTS: We verified that the instrumental measurement methods could obtain data trends that are consistent with sensory assessment methods; hence, they have the advantages of accuracy, convenience, and quantifiability. CONCLUSION: Thus, the instrumental measurement methods we verified can provide objective evidence for the efficacy of hair care products in repairing hair.

A comparison of dyeing efficacy between hair-oxidation-based and hair-coating-based shampoos for the treatment of gray hair.

BACKGROUND: The process of hair dyeing causes hair damage, and periodic re-dyeing is required for newly grown hair. To avoid these hassles, hair color shampoos have been developed and are widely used. In this study, we compared the effects of two hair color shampoos with different dyeing principles to analyze the function of hair color shampoos. We analyzed hair tresses treated by hair-oxidation- and hair-coating-based shampoos. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We measured the color, tensile properties, softness, elasticity, gloss, moisture content, and protein content of the hair tresses dyed with color shampoos. The hair structures were analyzed by scanning and transmission electron microscopies (SEM and TEM) and a hydroxy radical-based method. RESULTS: The shampoo based on hair coating enhanced the hair dyeing effect and roughness, whereas that based on hair oxidation improved the color retention and moisture content in the hair tresses. Frictional resistance, gloss, and elasticity of the hair tresses were similar for the two products. However, according to the results of the protein loss test, TEM, and hydroxyl radical staining, the shampoo based on hair oxidation showed a longer dyeing retention compared to that based on hair coating but caused cuticle damage. CONCLUSION: These results show that the two shampoos with different dyeing principles exhibit different hair dyeing abilities and hair health indices. Therefore, we recommend that hair color shampoos should be used according to the requirements of an individual.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

OBJECTIVE: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. RESULTS: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. CONCLUSION: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Development of a three-point cantilever bending technique to study the mechanical properties of hair styling ingredients.

BACKGROUND: The mechanical properties of hair treated with styling ingredients is an important aspect to determine if products will be efficacious when used by the consumer. Measurement techniques have been proposed in earlier work; however, these are mostly aimed at hairspray systems and not the myriad of styling products available to the modern-day consumer. AIM: In this article, experimental and data analysis guidelines are proposed for the evaluation of styling ingredients using a three-point cantilever bending technique. Most of the experiments were carried out on polysaccharide-based ingredients-guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Guar HPTC) and cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Cassia HPTC)-to establish basic characterization concepts of the polymer-fiber assemblies. METHODS: A three-point cantilever bending technique was developed using a texture analyzer housed in a temperature and humidity-controlled chamber. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were conducted to monitor the fracture mechanics of polymer-fiber assemblies. RESULTS: Fundamental studies were carried out to determine the effect of concentration, molecular weight (MW), and chemistry of the polysaccharides on the calculated indices, which characterize the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of the treated hair. Experiments were conducted in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, which allowed us to monitor the behavior of the polymer-treated hair from 40-90% RH. Studies were also conducted on polymer blends and conventional styling polymers to provide guidance of the performance of naturally-derived polymers to their synthetic counterparts. CONCLUSIONS: A detailed description is provided for a user-friendly, quick method to measure the mechanical properties of styling ingredients on hair. We provide guidelines for three-point cantilever bending tests of straight hair tresses treated with conventional and naturally-derived styling polymers. Indices were developed to characterize the force-distance curves and were designated as E1, F1, position of F1, post-fracture gradient, toughness, E10/E1, and F10/F1. These indices provide an overall characterization of the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of polymer-treated hair.

Vitamins and their derivatives synergistically promote hair shaft elongation ex vivo via PlGF/VEGFR-1 signalling activation.

BACKGROUND: Although vitamins or their derivatives (Vits), such as panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine, have been widely used in topical hair care products, their efficacy and mode of action have been insufficiently studied. OBJECTIVE: To elucidate the biological influence of Vits on hair follicles and determine the underlying mechanisms. METHODS: A mouse vibrissa hair follicle organ culture model was utilized to evaluate the effects of Vits on hair shaft elongation. Gene and protein expression analyses and histological investigations were conducted to elucidate the responsible mechanisms. A human hair follicle cell culture was used to assess the clinical relevance. RESULTS: In organ culture models, the combination of panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine (namely, PPT) supplementation significantly promoted hair shaft elongation. PPT treatment enhanced hair matrix cell proliferation by 1.9-fold compared to controls, as demonstrated by Ki67-positive immunoreactivity. PPT-treated mouse dermal papillae exhibited upregulated Placental growth factor (Plgf) by 1.6-fold compared to controls. Importantly, the addition of PlGF neutralizing antibodies to the ex vivo culture diminished the promotive effect on hair growth and increase in VEGFR-1 phosphorylation achieved by PPT. A VEGFR-1 inhibitor also inhibited the promotion of hair growth. Microarray analysis suggested synergistic summation of individual Vits' bioactivity, putatively explaining the effect of PPT. Moreover, PPT increased PlGF secretion in cultured human dermal papilla cells. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggested that PPT promoted hair shaft elongation by activating PlGF/VEGFR-1 signalling. The current study can shed light on the previously underrepresented advantage of utilizing Vits in hair care products.

Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state: Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments.

OBJECTIVES: This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). METHODS: The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. RESULTS: Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2 ) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. CONCLUSIONS: The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure.

OBJECTIFS: Cette expérience porte d'abord sur la question de savoir dans quelle mesure les tests de traction humide et sec sur cheveux humains peuvent être considérés comme conduisant à des résultats indépendants. Deuxièmement, nous essayons d'évaluer les sensibilités des tests humides et secs pour détecter les modifications des propriétés mécaniques. Plus précisément, nous nous sommes intéressés à séparer les changements, qui ont été induits par une combinaison d'un produit chimique (oxydation/eau de javel) et d'un traitement physique (chaleur). MÉTHODES: Notre étude repose sur les données relatives aux propriétés de traction (humides et secs) d'un ensemble de tresses capillaires non traitées et décolorées, qui ont été soumises au même programme de traitements thermiques. En tant que paramètres de traction caractéristiques, nous avons choisi le modulus (E), l'extension de rupture (BE) et le stress de rupture (BS). Tout d'abord, les paramètres ont été analysés entre les traitements, pour observer les corrélations entre les données humides et secs. Deuxièmement, nous avons appliqué une analyse de variance à deux facteurs, pour évaluer les effets des facteurs et leur interaction potentielle. RÉSULTATS: Les corrélations entre les données sèches et humides montrent uniquement une relation faible pour E, tandis que les coefficients de détermination (R2) sont assez élevés pour BE et BS. L'analyse ANOVA à deux facteurs permet de quantifier les différentes contributions à la somme totale des carrés pour les trois paramètres. Nous montrons que les paramètres répondent de façon assez différente aux traitements chimiques et thermiques ainsi qu'aux conditions de test (humide ou sec). Il est intéressant de noter que l'interaction entre la substance chimique et le traitement physique est généralement assez faible. Pour l'interprétation des résultats, nous utilisons la notion de transition vitreuse hygro-dépendante ainsi que de la matrice amorphe induite par une contrainte. CONCLUSIONS: L'hypothèse d'indépendance pour les mesures de traction sec et humide ne s'applique qu'au module. Dans l'ensemble, nous considérons le module (humide) comme la meilleure mesure de traction des dommages des fibres, lors de l'évaluation des traitements chimiques et/ou physiques. Dans des conditions ambiantes (sèches), le stress de rupture est une mesure alternative réalisable.

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment.

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

Application of Combinatorial Methods for the Identifi cation of Synthetic Hair-Conditioning Polymers.

Cationic conditioning polymers have a role as deposition aids for depositing benefit agents such as silicone polymers and are used in shampoo formulations to provide improved combing properties, feel, and look. The objective of this work was to develop synthetic high-performance polymeric conditioning agents that exhibit conditioning performance as good as, or better than, the current commercially available polymers. We describe the application of high throughput methods to identify high-performance synthetic hair-conditioning polymers through using high throughput combinatorial methods for polymer synthesis and screening to prepare several hundred cationic polymer candidates. Shampoo formulations were then formulated with these polymers; hair tresses were treated with these formulations and tested via a parallel automated wet combing method. Three high-performing polymer candidates were selected for further evaluation, prepared on a larger scale and evaluated via a panel study. A (3-acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride-vinyl monomer-based cationic copolymer is shown to exhibit hair conditioning efficiency equal to or greater than that of a high-performance cellulose ether-based polymer, SOFTCAT™ SL-5 (Polyquaternium-67) in a shampoo formulation.

Targeting Wnt/ß-Catenin Pathway for Developing Therapies for Hair Loss.

Persistent hair loss is a major cause of psychological distress and compromised quality of life in millions of people worldwide. Remarkable progress has been made in understanding the molecular basis of hair loss and identifying valid intracellular targets for designing effective therapies for hair loss treatment. Whereas a variety of growth factors and signaling pathways have been implicated in hair cycling process, the activation of Wnt/ß-catenin signaling plays a central role in hair follicle regeneration. Several plant-derived chemicals have been reported to promote hair growth by activating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling in various in vitro and in vivo studies. This mini-review sheds light on the role of Wnt/ß-catenin in promoting hair growth and the current progress in designing hair loss therapies by targeting this signaling pathway.

Impact of acid straightener's pH value in the hair fiber properties.

BACKGROUND: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted. OBJECTIVE: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers. METHODS: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content. RESULTS: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0.

Novel shampoo reduces hair shedding by contracting the arrector pili muscle via the trace amine-associated receptor.

BACKGROUND: Approximately 40% of women experience excessive hair shedding when washing their hair. Previously, we have demonstrated that a topically applied α1 adrenergic receptor agonist can be used to contract the arrector pili muscle of the follicular unit (ie, produce "goose bumps"), increasing the force required to pluck hair by as much as 400%. Subsequently, we reported a topical cosmetic solution containing an α1 adrenergic receptor agonist that reduced hair shedding during brushing by a maximum of 77%. AIMS: In this communication, we explore a novel mechanism to contract the arrector pili muscle. Trace amine-associated receptors (TAAR) have been shown to regulate smooth muscle tone in blood vessels, but have not been reported to be present in the skin. Here, we report on the anti-shedding efficacy of a shampoo containing a selective TAAR agonist, tyramine hydrochloride. METHODS: A single-blinded crossover study was designed to test the efficacy of the novel shampoo versus placebo in reducing hairs lost during brushing. RESULTS: In this study, the novel TAAR shampoo reduced hair shedding during brushing by 31% in a cohort of 24 women with a maximum reduction of 77%. CONCLUSIONS: A shampoo formulated with a selective TAAR agonist was demonstrated to contract the arrector pili muscle and reduce hair shedding subsequent to washing.

In vitro efficacy of antifungal agents alone and in shampoo formulation against dandruff-associated Malassezia spp. and Staphylococcus spp.

OBJECTIVE: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta. Some studies also suggest the involvement of staphylococci bacteria in dandruff disease pathogenesis. We aimed to access the effectiveness of anti-dandruff treatments by determining the efficacy of the active antifungal agents alone or in commercial shampoo formulations against Malassezia and Staphylococcus. METHODS: The minimum inhibitory concentrations of three anti-dandruff shampoo antifungals (zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole and ciclopirox) and the witch hazel extract, hamamelitannin were tested against commensal Malassezia and Staphylococcus species using broth microdilution methods. In experiments simulating shampoo exposure and washing conditions on the scalp, we also tested the ability of the above agents in shampoo formulation (Head and Shoulders® (H&S), Ketomed® , Sebiprox® , Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo® respectively) along with a generic over-the-shelf shampoo to inhibit microbial growth. RESULTS: Ketomed® and H&S shampoo were the most effective treatments against Malassezia in in vitro assays and washing simulation experiments. Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo® was less effective against Malassezia as it required a longer contact time to achieve growth inhibition for some species. Sebiprox® showed variable efficacy in washing and contact time experiments whereas the generic over-the-shelf shampoo was the least effective in inhibiting Malassezia and Staphylococcus growth. CONCLUSION: From these findings, it is reasonable that patients with dandruff may benefit from applying specific antifungal shampoo although results may vary with microbial species, time of contact and shampoo formulation components.

OBJECTIFS: Les pellicules sont une affection cutanée complexe caractérisée par des démangeaisons et une desquamation du cuir chevelu. Elles sont principalement attribuées à une colonisation excessive par des levures du genre Malassezia telles que Malassezia globosa et Malassezia restricta. Certaines études suggèrent également que des bactéries comme les staphylocoques sont impliquées dans la pathogenèse des pellicules. Nous désirions évaluer l'efficacité des traitements antipelliculaires en déterminant l'efficacité des antifongiques actifs seuls ou dans des formulations commerciales de shampooing contre Malassezia et les bactéries du genre Staphylococcus. MÉTHODES: Les concentrations minimales inhibitrices de trois antifongiques présents dans des shampooings antipelliculaires (pyrithione de zinc, kétoconazole et ciclopirox) ainsi que l'hamamélan, extrait d'hamamélis, ont été évaluées contre des espèces commensales de Malassezia et Staphylococcus en utilisant des méthodes de microdilution en culture. Dans des expériences simulant l'exposition au shampooing et les conditions de lavage sur le cuir chevelu, nous avons également testé la capacité à inhiber la croissance microbienne des agents décrits ci-dessus dans la formulation de shampooings (Head and Shoulders (H&S), Ketomed, Sebiprox, Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo, respectivement) avec un produit générique trouvé dans le commerce. RÉSULTATS: Les shampooings Ketomed et H&S ont été les traitements les plus efficaces contre Malassezia dans des essais in vitro et dans des expériences de simulation de lavage. Le shampooing Erol Healthcare était moins efficace contre Malassezia in vitro car nécessitant un temps de contact plus long pour obtenir une inhibition de la croissance de certaines espèces. Sebiprox a montré une efficacité variable dans les expériences de lavage et de temps de contact alors que le shampooing générique était le moins efficace pour inhiber la croissance de Malassezia et Staphylococcus. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les patients avec des pellicules peuvent raisonnablement retirer un bénéfice de l'utilisation d'un shampooing antifongique spécifique bien que les résultats puissent varier selon les espèces microbiennes, la durée du contact et des composants entrant dans la formulation du shampooing.

Revisiting, in vivo, the hair regreasing process by the Sebuprint method.

BACKGROUND: The regreasing process of hair by sebum is daily observed by consumers. Methods to investigate this phenomenon were scarcely updated since the 1990s, despite the constant progresses in hair cleaning procedures or shampoo formulations. Our objective was first, to develop an in vivo noninvasive method for quantifying the spread of sebum along the hair shaft. Secondly, we use this new method to define the overall kinetics of the hair-regreasing process among two cohorts of Chinese men with opposite self-perceptions of their scalp/hair greasiness (ie, greasy or not greasy). MATERIAL AND METHODS: One hundred and twenty-three Chinese men (aged 18-35 years) participated to the study. The technique used basically adapts the Sebumeter™ technology where supple polymer films are applied onto and along the hair shaft. The sampled hair sebum is further quantified by image analysis/increased transparency. RESULTS: The technique developed showed an adequate reproducibility under fixed conditions (pressure, investigators, scalp sites, etc.). In the two cohorts of subjects (eg, greasy, nongreasy), hair regreasing process was found sharing a same linear progression with time. The two cohorts of men presented significantly different values in the total amount of spread sebum by an approximately two-fold coefficient, with however comparable average values in the sebum amount present at the root region 48 hours post shampoo. At such timing, the spread of sebum reaches much longer distances in the greasy scalp cohort. CONCLUSION: This technique appears promising for assessing the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients (or products) that aim at delaying a natural process that is daily and negatively perceived by consumers.

Proprietary Herbal Extract Downregulates the Gene Expression of IL-1α in HaCaT Cells: Possible Implications Against Nonscarring Alopecia.

BACKGROUND: Currently while, topical minoxidil and oral finasteride are the only medications approved in androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the cause oriented treatment and immunsupressive treatment are being performed in telogen effluvium (TE) and alopecia areata (AA) respectively. Considering the inflammatory factors in the pathogenesis of these three nonscarring alopecia forms, we have formulated a mixture for topical usage composed of six different herbal extracts (HE) which have already known antiinflammatory and antioxidant features. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In addition to performing the phytochemical analysis of HE, we detected the gene expression level of IL-1α, the crucial hair loss mediator, for the putative efficacy in nonscarring alopecia. Cell proliferation assay was performed by XTT reagent. After determination of non-cytotoxic concentration, HaCaT cells were treated with HE. RNA isolations were carried out from both non-treated and treated cell groups by using TRI-reagent. Gene expressions of IL-1α and as control GAPDH were determined by RT-qPCR analysis. RESULTS: Results were represented as "IL-1α/GAPDH Fold Change". HE solution caused statistically significant downregulation of IL-1α gene expressions (p<0.0001), compared to untreated control cells. HE treatment ended up with 0.1900 fold change for IL-1α. CONCLUSION: IL-1α is a direct growth inhibitory agent in hair follicles and an important actor in the pathogenesis of AGA , TE, and AA. Considering together the vitamins, flavonoids, and trace elements identified in the phytochemical analyses and downregulation of IL-1α in HaCaT cells, our HE may be an auxiliary agent in the therapy of these three nonscarring alopecia forms.

Photoprotective Effects of a Multifunctional Hair Care Formulation Containing Botanical Extracts, Vitamins, and UV Filters.

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional hair care formulation-Hair BB Cream-containing botanical extracts of Camellia sinensis, Vitis vinifera, and Euterpe orleacea, vitamins, amino acids, UV filters, and silicones for hair treatment and prevention of UV damages. The in vitro antioxidant activity of the botanical extracts was evaluated using the DPPH and chemiluminescence methods. A tensile test, combability, shine, and image analysis were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation. To evaluate protection against UV damage, the hair strands were submitted to UV radiation without and with the application of the Hair BB Cream. The results showed that the application of the Hair BB Cream promoted a reduction in combability values and an increase in break stress and gloss values. After exposure to UV radiation, the hair treated with the BB Cream formulation showed no difference in the mechanical properties test, indicating protection against UV damage. In conclusion, the multifunctional formulation showed several benefits of single product acting in the prevention of UV damage and the treatment of hair damage. Thus, the Hair BB Cream proposed can be suggested as an effective multifunctional hair care product.