Impact of acid straightener's pH value in the hair fiber properties.

BACKGROUND: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted. OBJECTIVE: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers. METHODS: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content. RESULTS: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0.

Safety and risk assessment of ceramide 3 in cosmetic products.

Ceramide 3 is used mainly as a moisturizer in various cosmetic products. Although several safety studies on formulations containing pseudo-ceramide or ceramide have been conducted at the preclinical and clinical levels for regulatory approval, no studies have evaluated the systemic toxicity of ceramide 3. To address this issue, we conducted a risk assessment and comprehensive toxicological review of ceramide and pseudo-ceramide. We assumed that ceramide 3 is present in various personal and cosmetic products at concentrations of 0.5-10%. Based on previously reported exposure data, the margin of safety (MOS) was calculated for product type, use pattern, and ceramide 3 concentration. Lipsticks with up to 10% ceramide 3 (MOS = 4111) are considered safe, while shampoos containing 0.5% ceramide 3 (MOS = 148) are known to be safe. Reported MOS values for body lotion applied to the hands (1% ceramide 3) and back (5% ceramide 3) were 103 and 168, respectively. We anticipate that face cream would be safe up to a ceramide 3 concentration of 3% (MOS = 149). Collectively, the MOS approach indicated no safety concerns for cosmetic products containing less than 1% ceramide 3.

Insights into shaving and its impact on skin.

Male grooming has its roots in antiquity. Control and styling of facial hair has invariably required the development and use of metal instrumentation. Once crude and unreliable, it has latterly become sophisticated and subject to intense research and development at the highest scientific level. This paper describes how male grooming is being impacted by improvements in fundamental understanding of male skin. Skin issues associated with poor hair removal approaches are common, but are often overlooked or their aetiology misunderstood by patients and physicians. By incorporating advanced scientific measurement and imaging technology into clinical testing, insights are being gained into both the common concerns which men express and optimal solutions for these concerns. Specific aspects such as the study of nicks and cuts and the identification and release of trapped hairs are discussed. Finally, details are presented on how the individual elements of technologically advanced razors play a role in managing the skin and hair, highlighting further the complexity of the shaving process.

Assessment of styling performance in hair gels and hair sprays by means of a new two-point stiffness test.

A new two-point bending stiffness method on flat hair strands was developed and validated after application of hair styling gels and hair styling sprays. A special mold was used to align single hair fibers after applying the formulations to the hair. The styling gels used contain different commercially available thickeners and styling polymers, e.g., carbomer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, Polyquaternium-86, PVP, VP/VA copolymers, and VP/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole copolymer. Evaluation of hair sprays was performed after spray application on flat hair strands. Commercially available hair styling resins were used, e.g. acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, and VP/VA copolymer (30:70). The new stiffness test method provided the best correlation with practically relevant sensory assessments on hair strands and a panel test in which styling gels were evaluated. However, we did not observe a correlation between the new stiffness method on flat hair strands and practical assessments in hair spray application. We postulate that different polymer/hair composites are responsible for these discrepancies. Hairs on model heads for half-side testing are spot-welded after spray application, while hairs are seam-welded in the stiffness test after alignment of single hair fibers. This alignment is necessary to achieve reproducible results.

Hair breakage--how to measure and counteract.

A system to determine the efficacy of hair treatments in terms of anti-breakage and split end prevention was developed which involves the repeated combing of hair strands. The device allows ten hair strands to be combed simultaneously. First, the influences of chemical hair treatments like bleaching on hair breakage were examined. In a next step, the protective effects of benchmark products from the market were studied. Since nearly all commercial products with anti-breakage claims contain silicones combined with cationic polymers, alternative actives were searched. In a test series with different waxes in shampoo formulations with a variable number of parameters, the particle size was found to be the factor with the strongest influence on the amount of wax deposited on the shampooed hair. Therefore, a targeted development was started, resulting in a combination of several ethers dispersed in sodium laureth sulfate. Excellent conditioning, anti-breakage and split ends protection properties of the compound were found, showing also a dosage dependency. The latter could be explained by analyzing the amounts of waxes applied on treated hair. In these experiments, a dependency on the concentration in the shampoo was found.

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties / Características da fibra do cabelo e métodos para avaliar o cabelo propriedades físicas e mecânicas

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).

O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).

The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

As early as can be traced, written documents testify endeavors shown by humanity to please by means of the hair. Hair care, color and style play an important role in people's physical appearance and self-perception. Dermatologists should be knowledgeable about the procedures people follow to look their best and should have the competence to provide patients with information on the benefits and hazards of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Shampooing is the most common form of cosmetic hair treatment. The diversity of qualities expected from a shampoo by today's consumer surpass the primary function of cleansing. Current shampoo formulations are adapted to the variations associated with hair quality, hair care habit and specific problems related to the superficial condition of the scalp. Hand in hand, test methods are developed to evaluate the efficacy of hair care products so that consumers are offered products that perform as claimed. Through the development of cosmetics with pharmaceutically active compounds, products are evolving that are becoming more similar to topical therapeutic agents (cosmeceuticals). The efficacy of cosmeceuticals that claim to act as hair growth stimulants should be measured by the standards set by the drugs minoxidil and, more recently, oral finasteride. Finally, health hazards associated with the use of hair care products, especially rinse-off products, have been overemphasized by the media and need careful correction by opinion leaders.

Efficacy testing for hair care products.

For the efficacy testing of hair care products, a number of methods are available. Scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy are most suitable for surface evaluation; the swelling properties in the course of a treatment are determined using a fiber-swelling analyzer, and the luster may be reliably determined by means of a multiangle goniophotometer. Further, surface tension is a suitable method to evaluate the hydrophilic/hydrophobic properties of a hair section, and is sensitive enough to indicate the individual hormone cycle.

Percutaneous penetration of dimethylnitrosamine through human skin in vitro: application from cosmetic vehicles.

Human skin penetration of N-dimethylnitrosamine (DMN) from three vehicles has been determined in vitro. When applied as an infinite dose in isopropyl myristate (IPM, 1 microgram/microliter) the average total absorption over 48 hr was 2.6 +/- 1.2% of the applied dose (all data presented are expressed as means +/- standard errors). When applied as a finite dose in a representative oil-in-water emulsion vehicle the average total absorption over 48 hr was 4.0 +/- 0.3% of the applied dose. When applied as a finite dose in a representative shampoo vehicle for 10 min followed by rinsing (i.e. to represent in-use exposure conditions) the average total absorption over 48 hr was 1.1 +/- 0.1% of the applied dose. Approximately 72% of the DMN in the applied shampoo vehicle was removed by rinsing. There was considerable evaporative loss of DMN from the IPM and oil-in-water emulsion vehicles, such that absorption was complete within 3 hr of application. The overall data indicate that DMN can penetrate the skin rapidly but that in practice the amount actually available for penetration is significantly reduced by high permeant volatility. In contrast, application of N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) at a concentration of 1 microgram/microliter as an infinite dose generated an average total absorption over 48 hr of 23.6 +/- 6.4%, representing a total flux of 103.9 +/- 28.4 micrograms/cm2. In the case of NDELA, no evaporative loss was evident.

The CTFA Evaluation of Alternatives Program: an evaluation of in vitro alternatives to the Draize primary eye irritation test. (Phase II) oil/water emulsions.

The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) Evaluation of Alternatives Program is an evaluation of the relationship between Draize ocular safety test data and comparable data from a selection of in vitro tests. In Phase II, 18 representative oil/water-based personal-care formulations were subjected to the Draize primary eye safety test and 30 in vitro assay protocols (14 different types of in vitro endpoints were evaluated; the remainder were protocol variations). Correlation of in vitro with in vivo data was evaluated using analysis of sensitivity/specificity and statistical analysis of the relationship between maximum average Draize score (MAS) and in vitro endpoint. Regression modelling is the primary approach adopted in the CTFA Program for evaluating in vitro assay performance. The objective of regression analysis is to predict MAS for a given test material (and to place upper and lower prediction interval bounds on the range in which the MAS is anticipated to fall with high probability) conditional on observing an in vitro assay score for that material. The degree of confidence in prediction is quantified in terms of the relative widths of prediction intervals constructed about the fitted regression curves: the narrower the prediction interval, the more predictive of the Draize score is the in vitro test result. 16 assays were shown to have the greatest agreement with the Draize procedure and were therefore selected for regression analysis. Based on the magnitude of the 95% prediction bounds of each of the 16 selected assays over the range of test data, it may be inferred that prediction of MAS values from experimentally determined in vitro scores is more accurate for oil/water-based formulations with lower rather than higher irritancy potential. The assays selected for modelling in Phase II generally exhibited weaker relationships with MAS than those selected in Phase I (evaluated using hydroalcoholic formulations), even though several assays were common to both Phases.

[Analysis of formaldehyde in various chemical products for household use and in shampoos and bath liquids]. / Oznaczanie formaldehydu w niektórych wyrobach chemii gospodarczej oraz badanie, jego obecnosci w szamponach i plynach kapielowych.

In the years 1987-1988 in cooperation with 34 Province Sanitary-Epidemiological Stations 938 samples of shampoos and bathing fluids were investigated, among them 40 imported shampoos, besides that 829 samples of chemical products for household use were analysed for the presence of formaldehyde. In the products which should not contain formaldehyde this compound was found in amounts from 0 to 50 mg/kg in 84.75% of shampoos and bathing fluids (77.18% of the samples contained no formaldehyde), 87.03% of fluids for washing of vessels, rinsing and softening of fabrics, and for washing or refrigerators (in 75.13% of these products formaldehyde was not found). The authors suggest that the permissible formaldehyde level for these products should be 50 mg/kg and should be accepted as contamination. In these products in which the permitted formaldehyde level was 0.1% already 99.12% of the samples was below that value.