Effects of benzophenone-3 and its metabolites on the marine diatom Chaetoceros neogracilis: Underlying mechanisms and environmental implications.

The wide application of benzophenones (BPs), such as benzophenone-3 (BP3), as an ingredient in sunscreens, cosmetics, coatings, and plastics, has led to their global contamination in aquatic environments. Using the marine diatom Chaetoceros neogracilis as a model, this study assessed the toxic effects and mechanisms of BP3 and its two major metabolites (BP8 and BP1). The results showed that BP3 exhibited higher toxicity on C. neogracilis than BP8 and BP1, with their 72-h median effective concentrations being 0.4, 0.8 and 4 mg/L, respectively. Photosynthesis efficiencies were significantly reduced after exposure to environmentally relevant concentrations of the three benzophenones, while cell viability, membrane integrity, membrane potential, and metabolic activities could be further impaired at their higher concentrations. Comparative transcriptomic analysis, followed by gene ontology and KEGG pathway enrichment analyses unraveled that all the three tested benzophenones disrupted photosynthesis and nitrogen metabolism of the diatom through alteration of similar pathways. The toxic effect of BP3 was also attributable to its unique inhibitory effects on eukaryotic ribosome biosynthesis and DNA replication. Taken together, our findings underscore that benzophenones may pose a significant threat to photosynthesis, oxygen production, primary productivity, carbon fixation, and the nitrogen cycle of diatom in coastal waters worldwide.

Identification, Organic Synthesis, and Sensitive Analysis of a cis-Homosalate-Specific Exposure Biomarker.

Homosalate (HMS) is an organic UV filter used in sunscreens and personal care products. Despite its widespread use and detection in environmental matrices, little is known regarding its exposure in humans. HMS is used as a mixture of cis- and trans-isomers, and we recently revealed major differences in human toxicokinetics, indicating the need to consider these isomers separately in exposure and risk assessments. In the course of these previous investigations of human HMS toxicokinetics, we identified two trans-HMS-specific and one cis-HMS-specific biomarker candidates. However, the latter lacks sensitivity due to only low amounts excreted in urine, prompting the search for another cis-HMS-specific biomarker. Our toxicokinetic investigations revealed a total of five isomers of HMS carboxylic acid metabolites (HMS-CA). Of these, only one was specifically formed from cis-HMS (HMS-CA 5), but its full identity in terms of constitution and configuration had, so far, not been elucidated. Here, we describe the synthesis of three HMS-CA isomers, of which the isomer (1R,3S,5S)/(1S,3R,5R)-3-((2-hydroxybenzoyl)oxy)-1,5-dimethylcyclohexane-1-carboxylic acid turned out to be HMS-CA 5. Taken together with two previously synthesized HMS-CA isomers, we were able to identify the constitution and configuration of all five HMS-CA isomers observed in human metabolism. We integrated the newly identified cis-HMS-specific metabolite HMS-CA 5 into our previously published human biomonitoring LC-MS/MS method. Intra- and interday precisions had coefficients of variation below 2% and 5%, respectively, and the mean relative recovery was 96%. The limit of quantification in urine was 0.02 µg L-1, enabling the quantification of HMS-CA 5 in urine samples for at least 96 h after sunscreen application. The extended method thus enables the sensitive and separate monitoring of cis- and trans-HMS in future human biomonitoring studies for exposure and risk assessment.

Bioconcentration, biotransformation, and transcriptomic impact of the UV-filter 4-MBC in the manila clam Ruditapes philippinarum.

Ultraviolet filters (UV-filters) are compounds extensively used in personal care products. These compounds are produced at increasing rates and discharged into marine ecosystems in unknown quantities and with no regulation, making them emerging contaminants. Among those, the UV-filter 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC) is used in a variety of personal care products such as sunscreens, soaps, or lipsticks. This high consumption has resulted in its presence in various environmental matrices at in concentrations ranging from ng to µg L-1. Very little is known, however, about the possible adverse effects in exposed non-target organisms. Our study presents novel data on the bioconcentration, toxicokinetics, and molecular effects of 4-MBC in a marine bivalve species of commercial interest, Ruditapes philippinarum (Manila clam). Organisms were exposed at two different concentrations (1.34 and 10.79 µg L-1) of 4-MBC for 7 days, followed by a 3-day depuration period (clean sea waters). Bioconcentration factors (BCF) were 3562 and 2229 L kg-1 for the low and high exposure concentrations, respectively, making this pollutant bioaccumulative according to REACH criteria. Up to six 4-MBC biotransformation products (BTPs)were identified, 2 of them for the first time. Transcriptomic analysis revealed between 658 and 1310 differently expressed genes (DEGs) after 4-MBC exposure. Functional and enrichment analysis of the DEGs showed the activation of the detoxification pathway to metabolize and excrete the bioconcentrated 4-MBC, which also involved energy depletion and caused an impact on the metabolism of carbohydrates and lipids and in the oxidative phosphorylation pathways. Oxidative stress and immune response were also evidenced through the activation of cathepsins and the complement system. Such elucidation of the mode of action of a ubiquitous pollutant such as 4-MBC at the molecular level is valuable both from an environmental point of view and for the sustainable production of Manila clam, one of the most cultivated mollusk species worldwide.

The associations between high-levels of urine benzophenone-type UV filters (BPs) and changes in serum lipid concentrations.

Little is known about the potential health impacts of benzophenone-type UV filters (BPs) exposure among the general population. In our study conducted in Wuxi, China, we investigated the associations between the concentrations of eight BP-derivatives and five target lipid molecules. We collected basic information, serum, and urine samples from 120 residents aged 9 to 80 in Wuxi. We determined BPs in urine samples and lipid levels in serum samples. Generalized linear models were used to evaluate the differences in ln-transformed serum target lipids levels (µg/L) with different urine BPs quartiles compared to the lowest quartile. Benzophenone-4 (BP-4) had the highest detection rate (95.0%) and geometric mean concentration (1.96 µg/L) among all the BP-derivatives in our study population. The exposure levels of BPs were generally higher in females than in males. Participants in the 9-17 and 18-50 age groups exhibited greater levels of exposure to BPs than those in the 51-80 age group. We observed statistically significant changes in LysoPC (18:0), LysoPE (18:0), ΣLPL, and ΣTL concentrations between the highest and lowest quartiles of BP-4. Similar changes were found in LysoPE (18:0) concentration between the highest and lowest quartiles of ΣBP-3 and ΣBPs. High urine BP concentrations were associated with variations in our target serum lipids involved in neurological and metabolic disorders, and posed a potential health risk. Future studies are warranted to further validate and elucidate our findings.

Benzophenone-3 sunscreen causes phytotoxicity and cytogenotoxicity in higher plants.

The benzophenone-3 (BP-3) sunscreen is recurrently released into the environment from different sources, however, evaluations of its adverse effects on plants do not exist in the literature. In this study, BP-3 was evaluated, at concentrations 2; 20, and 200 µg/L, regarding phytotoxicity, based on germination and root elongation in seeds, in Lactuca sativa L., Cucumis sativus L. and Allium cepa L., and phytotoxicity, cytogenotoxicity and oxidative stress in A. cepa bulb roots. The BP-3 concentrations, except for the 200 µg/L concentration in L. sativa, caused no significant reduction in seed germination. All concentrations tested significantly reduced the elongation of roots from seeds and roots from bulbs. The 20 and 200 µg/L concentrations caused oxidation in cells, disturbances in the cell cycle, and alterations in prophase and metaphase, as well as the induction of micronuclei, in A. cepa root meristems. Furthermore, the three concentrations induced a high number of prophases in root tips. Such disorders were caused by excess H2O2 and superoxide produced in cells due to exposure to BP-3, which triggered significant phytotoxicity, cytotoxicity, and genotoxicity in root meristems. Thus, the recurrent contamination of agricultural and non-agricultural soils with BP-3, even at a concentration of 2 µg/L, represents an environmental risk for plants. These results point to the impending need to set limits for the disposal of this sunscreen into the environment since BP-3 has been used in industry for several decades.

Applications of mycosporine-like amino acids beyond photoprotection.

Recent years have seen a lot of interest in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) because of their alleged potential as a natural microbial sunscreen. Since chemical ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are unsafe for long-term usage, the demand for natural UV-absorbing substances has increased. In this situation, MAA is a strong contender for an eco-friendly UV protector. The capacity of MAAs to absorb light in the UV-A (320-400 nm) and UV-B (280-320 nm) range without generating free radicals is potentially relevant in photoprotection. The usage of MAAs for purposes other than photoprotection has now shifted in favor of medicinal applications. Aside from UV absorption, MAAs also have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, anti-photoaging, cell proliferation stimulators, anti-cancer agents, and anti-adipogenic properties. Recently, MAAs application to combat SARS-CoV-2 infection was also investigated. In this review article, we highlight the biomedical applications of MAAs that go beyond photoprotection, which can help in utilizing the MAAs as promising bioactive compounds in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Single and mixture toxicity evaluation of avobenzone and homosalate to male zebrafish and H295R cells.

Avobenzone and homosalate are widely used in sunscreens to provide ultraviolet (UV) protection, either as single compounds or in combination. Some UV filters exhibit estrogenic or anti-androgenic activities, however, studies regarding their interactions and toxicity in mixtures are limited. In this study, the effect of the toxicity of a binary mixture comprising avobenzone (0.72 µg L-1) and homosalate (1.02 and 103 µg L-1) on steroid hormone biosynthesis were investigated using male zebrafish and human adrenocortical carcinoma (H295R) cells. In fish exposed to homosalate, a significant decrease in the gonadosomatic index, testosterone level, and transcription of several genes (e.g, hsd3b2, cyp17a1, and hsd17b1) and a significant increase in the hepatosomatic index, liver steatosis, 17ß-estradiol level, and transcription of vtg gene were observed. These results suggest that estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects of homosalate were mediated by the steroidogenic pathway. The presence of 0.72 µg L-1 of avobenzone augmented the anti-androgenic responses in male fish. The testosterone level in the H295R cells were significantly decreased after they were exposed to homosalate alone or in combination with avobenzone, which is consistent with observations in male zebrafish. Further studies need to be conducted to understand the endocrine disrupting properties of long-term exposure to substances typically used in sunscreens.

Efficient production of natural sunscreens shinorine, porphyra-334, and mycosporine-2-glycine in Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are promising natural sunscreens mainly produced in marine organisms. Until now, metabolic engineering efforts to produce MAAs in heterologous hosts have mainly focused on shinorine production, and the low production levels are still not suitable for industrial applications. In this study, we successfully developed Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains that can efficiently produce various disubstituted MAAs, including shinorine, porphyra-334, and mycosporine-2-glycine (M2G), which are formed by conjugating serine, threonine, and glycine to mycosporine-glycine (MG), respectively. We first generated an MG-producing strain by multiple integration of the biosynthetic genes from cyanobacteria and applying metabolic engineering strategies to increase sedoheptulose-7-phosphate pool, a substrate for MG production. Next, five mysD genes from cyanobacteria, which encode D-Ala-D-Ala ligase homologues that conjugate an amino acid to MG, were introduced into the MG-producing strain to determine the substrate preference of each MysD enzyme. MysDs from Lyngbya sp., Nostoclinckia, and Euhalothece sp. showed high specificity toward serine, threonine, and glycine, resulting in efficient production of shinorine, porphyra-334, and M2G, respectively. This is the first report on the production of porphyra-334 and M2G in S. cerevisiae. Furthermore, we identified that the substrate specificity of MysD was determined by the omega loop region of 43-45 amino acids predicted based on its structural homology to a D-Ala-D-Ala ligase from Thermus thermophilus involved in peptidoglycan biosynthesis. The substrate specificities of two MysD enzymes were interchangeable by swapping the omega loop region. Using the engineered strain expressing mysD from Lyngbya sp. or N. linckia, up to 1.53 g/L shinorine or 1.21 g/L porphyra-334 was produced by fed-batch fermentation in a 5-L bioreactor, the highest titer reported so far. These results suggest that S. cerevisiae is a promising host for industrial production of different types of MAAs, providing a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative for the development of natural sunscreens.

Metagenomics Shines Light on the Evolution of "Sunscreen" Pigment Metabolism in the Teloschistales (Lichen-Forming Ascomycota).

Fungi produce a vast number of secondary metabolites that shape their interactions with other organisms and the environment. Characterizing the genes underpinning metabolite synthesis is therefore key to understanding fungal evolution and adaptation. Lichenized fungi represent almost one-third of Ascomycota diversity and boast impressive secondary metabolites repertoires. However, most lichen biosynthetic genes have not been linked to their metabolite products. Here we used metagenomic sequencing to survey gene families associated with production of anthraquinones, UV-protectant secondary metabolites present in various fungi, but especially abundant in a diverse order of lichens, the Teloschistales (class Lecanoromycetes, phylum Ascomycota). We successfully assembled 24 new, high-quality lichenized-fungal genomes de novo and combined them with publicly available Lecanoromycetes genomes from taxa with diverse secondary chemistry to produce a whole-genome tree. Secondary metabolite biosynthetic gene cluster (BGC) analysis showed that whilst lichen BGCs are numerous and highly dissimilar, core enzyme genes are generally conserved across taxa. This suggests metabolite diversification occurs via re-shuffling existing enzyme genes with novel accessory genes rather than BGC gains/losses or de novo gene evolution. We identified putative anthraquinone BGCs in our lichen dataset that appear homologous to anthraquinone clusters from non-lichenized fungi, suggesting these genes were present in the common ancestor of the subphylum Pezizomycotina. Finally, we identified unique transporter genes in Teloschistales anthraquinone BGCs that may explain why these metabolites are so abundant and ubiquitous in these lichens. Our results support the importance of metagenomics for understanding the secondary metabolism of non-model fungi such as lichens.

In vitro spermiotoxicity and in vivo adults' biochemical pattern after exposure of the Mediterranean mussel to the sunscreen avobenzone.

Avobenzone (AVO) is one of the most frequent ultraviolet (UV) filters in personal care products (PCPs). The Mediterranean mussel Mytilus galloprovincialis is a bioindicator often used for ecotoxicological research. Since UV filters reach higher peaks during summer in aquatic bodies, coincident with mussels' spawning period, and bivalves are sessile, both male gametes and adults of this species were used in this experiment. Therefore, the present study aimed to assess how AVO affects M. galloprovincialis at different biological levels. In vitro experiments on sperms (30 min-exposure) and in vivo experiments on adults (28 days-exposure) were carried out at 0.1, 1.0 and 10.0 µg/L of AVO concentrations. The oxidative and physiological status together with genotoxicity in exposed sperms were assessed. Several biochemical parameters related to enzymatic antioxidant defences, biotransformation enzymes, cell membrane damage, energy reserves, and neurotoxicity were evaluated in adult mussels. Results of in vitro sperm exposure to AVO showed significant overproduction of superoxide anions and DNA damages in all treatments and decrease in sperm viability at 1.0 and 10.0 µg/L. AVO exposure also led to complete inhibition of motility of sperms at the highest concentration, while a significant increase of curvilinear velocity and decrease of wobble occurred at 1.0 µg/L. In vivo exposed adults exhibited a significant decrease in metabolic capacity at 0.1 µg/L, a significant increase in the total protein content and enzymatic turnover as superoxide dismutase (antioxidant defence) at 10 µg/L. This study revealed an ecological concern related to the high sensitivity of sperms respectively to adults under environmentally relevant concentrations of AVO, underpinning an hypothesis of male reproductive function impairments.

Genome Mining as an Alternative Way for Screening the Marine Organisms for Their Potential to Produce UV-Absorbing Mycosporine-like Amino Acid.

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are small molecules with robust ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing capacities and a huge potential to be used as an environmentally friendly natural sunscreen. MAAs, temperature, and light-stable compounds demonstrate powerful photoprotective capacities and the ability to capture light in the UV-A and UV-B ranges without the production of damaging free radicals. The biotechnological uses of these secondary metabolites have been often limited by the small quantities restored from natural resources, variation in MAA expression profiles, and limited success in heterologous expression systems. Overcoming these obstacles requires a better understanding of MAA biosynthesis and its regulatory processes. MAAs are produced to a certain extent via a four-enzyme pathway, including genes encoding enzymes dehydroquinate synthase, enzyme O-methyltransferase, adenosine triphosphate grasp, and a nonribosomal peptide synthetase. However, there are substantial genetic discrepancies in the MAA genetic pathway in different species, suggesting further complexity of this pathway that is yet to be fully explored. In recent years, the application of genome-mining approaches allowed the identification of biosynthetic gene clusters (BGCs) that resulted in the discovery of many new compounds from unconventional sources. This review explores the use of novel genomics tools for linking BGCs and secondary metabolites based on the available omics data, including MAAs, and evaluates the potential of using novel genome-mining tools to reveal a cryptic potential for new bioproduct screening approaches and unrevealing new MAA producers.

Assessment of human exposure to benzophenone-type UV filters: A review.

To avoid the harmful effects of UV radiation, benzophenone-type UV filters (BPs) are widely used in personal care products and other synthetic products. Biomonitoring studies have shown the presence of BPs in various human biological samples, raising health concerns. However, there is a paucity of data on the global human exposure to this group of contaminants. In this study, we compiled data on the body burden of BPs along with the possible exposure routes and biotransformation pathways. BPs can easily penetrate the skin barrier and thus, they can be absorbed through the skin. In the human body, BPs can undergo Phase I (mainly demethylation and hydroxylation) and Phase II (mainly glucuronidation and sulfation) biotransformations. From a total of 158 studies, most of the studies are related to urine (concentration up to 92.7 mg L-1), followed by those reported in blood (up to 0.9 mg L-1) and milk (up to 0.8 mg L-1). Among BPs, benzophenone-1 and benzophenone-3 are the most commonly detected congeners. The body burden of BPs is associated with various factors, including the country of residence, lifestyle, income, education level, and ethnicity. The presence of BPs in maternal urine (up to 1.1 mg L-1), placenta (up to 9.8 ng g-1), and amniotic fluid (up to 15.7 µg L-1) suggests potential risks of prenatal exposure. In addition, transplacental transfer of BPs is possible, as demonstrated by their presence in maternal serum and cord serum. The possible association of BPs exposure and health effects was discussed. Future human biomonitoring studies and studies on the potential health effects are warranted. Overall, this review provides a summary of the global human exposure to BPs and can serve as supporting evidence to guide usage in order to protect humans from being exposed to BPs.

Evaluation of Two Novel Hydantoin Derivatives Using Reconstructed Human Skin Model EpiskinTM: Perspectives for Application as Potential Sunscreen Agents.

This study aimed to assess two novel 5-arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione (hydantoin) derivatives (JH3 and JH10) demonstrating photoprotective activity using the reconstructed human skin model EpiskinTM. The skin permeability, irritation, and phototoxicity of the compounds was evaluated in vitro. Moreover, the in vitro genotoxicity and human metabolism of both compounds was studied. For skin permeation and irritation experiments, the test compounds were incorporated into a formulation. It was shown that JH3 and JH10 display no skin irritation and no phototoxicity. Both compounds did not markedly enhance the frequency of micronuclei in CHO-K1 cells in the micronucleus assay. Preliminary in vitro studies with liver microsomes demonstrated that hydrolysis appears to constitute their important metabolic pathway. EpiskinTM permeability experiments showed that JH3 permeability was lower than or close to currently used UV filters, whereas JH10 had the potential to permeate the skin. Therefore, a restriction of this compound permeability should be obtained by choosing the right vehicle or by optimizing it, which should be addressed in future studies.

A novel glyceroglycolipid from brown algae Ishige okamurae improve photoaging and counteract inflammation in UVB-induced HaCaT cells.

BACKGROUND: Excessive exposure to Ultraviolet (UV) rays can cause premature skin aging. Ishigoside (IGS) is a new glyceroglycolipid compound isolated from brown algal Ishige okamurae, However, whether it can protect the skin from (Ultraviolet-B) UVB damage has not been illuminated. METHODS: The in vitro anti-photoaging effect of IGS was conducted in UVB-induced HaCaT. The HaCaT cells were divided into the following five groups: (1) cells didn't suffer from UVB irradiation or IGS treatment. (2-5) Cells were treated with various concentrations of IGS (0, 10, 50, and 100 µM) and irradiated by 40 mJ/cm2 UVB. The Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) of photoaging process was determined by ELISA kits and the latent interaction between IGS and MMP was further performed by molecular docking. The crucial signaling pathway proteins involved in the collagen synthesis and degradation were subsequently evaluated by Western blotting, immunofluorescence and EMSA. RESULTS: IGS effectively suppresses the high expressions and secretions of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and photo-inflammation by blocking MAPKs, AP-1 and NF-κB. Meanwhile, increasing antioxidant enzyme expression. Molecular docking results suggest that inhibition of IGS on MMPs may be attributed to its hydrogen supply and hydrophobic capacity. In addition, IGS enhanced procollagen production by upregulating the TGF-ß/Smad pathways. CONCLUSIONS: IGS exhibited anti-photoaging activity in UVB-damage HaCaT. These effects might be a contribution by its suppression of MMPs expression via MAPKs, AP-1 and NF-κB pathway and have anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, IGS has the great potential to become skin-care products or functional foods for preventing skin photoaging.

Chromatographic-mass spectrometric analysis of the urinary metabolite profile of chlorphenesin observed after dermal application of chlorphenesin-containing sunscreen.

RATIONALE: Chlorphenesin is an approved biocide frequently used in cosmetics, and its carbamate ester is an approved skeletal muscle relaxant in certain countries for the treatment of discomfort related to skeletal muscle trauma and inflammation. A major urinary metabolite is 4-chlorophenoxy acetic acid (4-CPA), also known as para-chlorophenoxyacetate, which is also employed as a target analyte in sports drug testing to detect the use of the prohibited nootropic stimulant meclofenoxate. To distinguish between 4-CPA resulting from chlorphenesin, chlorphenesin carbamate, and meclofenoxate, urinary metabolite profiles of chlorphenesin after legitimate use were investigated. METHODS: Human administration studies with commercially available sunscreen containing 0.25% by weight of chlorphenesin were conducted. Six study participants dermally applied 8 g of sunscreen and collected urine samples before and up to 7 days after application. Another set of six study participants applied 8 g of sunscreen on three consecutive days, and urine samples were also taken for up to 5 days after the last dosing. Urine specimens were analyzed using liquid chromatography-high resolution (tandem) mass spectrometry, and urinary metabolites were identified in accordance with literature data by accurate mass analysis of respective precursor and characteristic product ions. RESULTS: In accordance with literature data, chlorphenesin yielded the characteristic urinary metabolites, chlorphenesin glucuronide, chlorphenesin sulfate, and 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-2-hydroxypropanoic acid (4-CPP), as well as the common metabolite 4-CPA. 4-CPA and 4-CPP were observed at similar abundances, with urinary concentrations of 4-CPA reaching up to ~1500 and 2300 ng/mL after single and multiple sunscreen applications, respectively. CONCLUSION: 4-CPA is a common metabolite of meclofenoxate, chlorphenesin, and chlorphenesin carbamate. Monitoring the diagnostic urinary metabolites of chlorphenesin provides conclusive supporting evidence of whether chlorphenesin or the prohibited nootropic meclofenoxate was administered.

Biotechnological Production of the Sunscreen Pigment Scytonemin in Cyanobacteria: Progress and Strategy.

Scytonemin is a promising UV-screen and antioxidant small molecule with commercial value in cosmetics and medicine. It is solely biosynthesized in some cyanobacteria. Recently, its biosynthesis mechanism has been elucidated in the model cyanobacterium Nostoc punctiforme PCC 73102. The direct precursors for scytonemin biosynthesis are tryptophan and p-hydroxyphenylpyruvate, which are generated through the shikimate and aromatic amino acid biosynthesis pathway. More upstream substrates are the central carbon metabolism intermediates phosphoenolpyruvate and erythrose-4-phosphate. Thus, it is a long route to synthesize scytonemin from the fixed atmospheric CO2 in cyanobacteria. Metabolic engineering has risen as an important biotechnological means for achieving sustainable high-efficiency and high-yield target metabolites. In this review, we summarized the biochemical properties of this molecule, its biosynthetic gene clusters and transcriptional regulations, the associated carbon flux-driving progresses, and the host selection and biosynthetic strategies, with the aim to expand our understanding on engineering suitable cyanobacteria for cost-effective production of scytonemin in future practices.

Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products.

Benzophenone is a mutagen, carcinogen, and endocrine disruptor. Its presence in food products or food packaging is banned in the United States. Under California Proposition 65, there is no safe harbor for benzophenone in any personal care products, including sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and moisturizers. The purpose of this study was to determine (1) if benzophenone was present in a wide variety of commercial sun protection factor (SPF)/sunscreen products, (2) whether benzophenone concentration in the product increased over time, and (3) if the degradation of octocrylene was the likely source for benzophenone contamination. Benzophenone concentration was assayed in nine commercial sunscreen products from the European Union and eight from the United States (in triplicate), including two single ingredient sources of octocrylene. These same SPF items were subjected to the United States Food and Drug Administration (U.S. FDA)-accelerated stability aging protocol for 6 weeks. Benzophenone was measured in the accelerated-aged products. Sixteen octocrylene-containing product lines that were recently purchased had an average concentration of 39 mg/kg benzophenone, ranging from 6 mg/kg to 186 mg/kg. Benzophenone was not detectable in the product that did not contain octocrylene. After subjecting the 17 products to the U.S. FDA-accelerated stability method, the 16 octocrylene-containing products had an average concentration of 75 mg/kg, ranging from 9.8 mg/kg to 435 mg/kg. Benzophenone was not detectable in the product that did not contain octocrylene. Benzophenone was detected in the pure octocrylene manufactured ingredient. Octocrylene generates benzophenone through a retro-aldol condensation. In vivo, up to 70% of the benzophenone in these sunscreen products may be absorbed through the skin. U.S. FDA has established a zero tolerance for benzophenone as a food additive. In the United States, there were 2999 SPF products containing octocrylene in 2019. The safety of octocrylene as a benzophenone generator in SPF or any consumer products should be expeditiously reviewed by regulatory agencies.

Mycelial culture extracts of selected wood-decay mushrooms as a source of skin-protecting factors.

OBJECTIVES: This study analyzed the content of substances with cosmetologic properties in the extracts obtained from the mycelial cultures of Ganoderma applanatum, Laetiporus sulphureus, and Trametes versicolor. The effect of these extracts on the inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase was determined, and their values of sun protection factor (SPF) were calculated. RESULTS: The total amount of phenolic acids in the extracts ranged from 2.69 (G. applanatum) to 10.30 mg/100 g dry weight (T. versicolor). The total amount of sterols was estimated at 48.40 (T. versicolor) to 201.04 mg/100 g dry weight (L. sulphureus), and that of indoles at 2.90 (G. applanatum) to 16.74 mg/100 dry weight (L. sulphureus). Kojic acid was determined in the extracts of L. sulphureus and G. applanatum. It was observed that L. sulphureus extract caused dose-dependent inhibition of hyaluronidase, while all the extracts inhibited tyrosinase. The extract of G. applanatum exhibited an SPF value of ~ 9. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the mycelial cultures of the studied species may be used as an alternative source of substances used in cosmetology.

Characterization and photoprotective potentiality of lime dwelling Pseudomonas mediated melanin as sunscreen agent against UV-B radiations.

Prolonged exposure to Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) adversely alters the functions of many skin cell types causing skin cancer and photoaging, which had led to increase in demand for more safe and natural sunscreens against UVR. The present study focuses on production, structural characterization and evaluation of photoprotective nature of melanin pigment derived from lime dwelling Pseudomonas sp. Melanin was characterized by solubility, UV-Vis, FT-IR, 13C-CPMAS, ESI-MS spectroscopy, including particle size, melting point and elemental analyses. In vitro cytotoxicity and photo-protective effect of Pseudomonas derived melanin (Mel-P) against UV-B (Broad Band-BB) radiations were assessed on mouse fibroblasts NIH 3 T3 cell lines. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated in NIH 3 T3 cells upon UV-B (BB) exposure was determined and quantified by Fluorescent microscopic and Flow cytometric analyses. A natural melanin obtained from Pseudomonas sp. contains 5,6- dihydroxy indole 2-carboxyic acid (DHICA) as its basic constituent and possess typical properties of eumelanin as revealed by the characterization studies. Mel-P has shown cell viability of 61.33 ± 6.58% at the concentration of 500 µg/mL proving its non-cytotoxic effect. Owing to its anti-oxidant property, melanin efficiently protected the mouse fibroblast cells from UV-B (BB) irradiation in a dose dependant manner demonstrating its potential as an active photoprotective agent.

Animal- free skin permeation analysis using mass spectrometry imaging.

Here we demonstrate an animal-free skin permeation analytical approach suitable for testing pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, occupational skin hazards and skin allergens. The method aims to replace or significantly reduce existing in-vivo models and improve on already established in-vitro models. This by offering a more sensitive and flexible analytical approach that can replace and/or complement existing methods in the OECD guidelines for skin adsorption (no 427 and no 428) and measure multiple compounds simultaneously in the skin while being able to also trace endogenous effects in cells. We demonstrate this here by studying how active ingredients in sunscreen permeate through left-over human skin, from routine surgery, in a in a Franz-cell permeation model. Two common sunscreens were therefore applied to the human skin and Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) was used to trace the molecules through the skin. We show that that ToF-SIMS imaging can be applied in visualizing the distribution of Avobenzone, Bemotrizinol, Biscotrizole and Ethyl hexyl triazine at subcellular resolution in the skin. The UV-blockers could be visualized at the same time in one single experiment without any probes or antibodies used. The UV-blockers mostly remained in the stratum corneum. However, in certain features of the skin, such as sebaceous glands, the penetration of the UV-blockers was more prominent, and the compounds reached deeper into the epidermis.