Occurrence and risks of pharmaceuticals, personal care products, and endocrine-disrupting compounds in Chinese surface waters.

The continuous and rapid increase of chemical pollution in surface waters has become a pressing and widely recognized global concern. As emerging contaminants (ECs) in surface waters, pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs), and endocrine-disrupting compounds (EDCs) have attracted considerable attention due to their wide occurrence and potential threat to human health. Therefore, a comprehensive understanding of the occurrence and risks of ECs in Chinese surface waters is urgently required. This study summarizes and assesses the environmental occurrence concentrations and ecological risks of 42 pharmaceuticals, 15 personal care products (PCPs), and 20 EDCs frequently detected in Chinese surface waters. The ECs were primarily detected in China's densely populated and highly industrialized regions. Most detected PPCPs and EDCs had concentrations between ng/L to µg/L, whereas norfloxacin, caffeine, and erythromycin had relatively high contamination levels, even exceeding 2000 ng/L. Risk evaluation based on the risk quotient method revealed that 34 PPCPs and EDCs in Chinese surface waters did not pose a significant risk, whereas 4-nonylphenol, 4-tert-octylphenol, 17α-ethinyl estradiol, 17ß-estradiol, and triclocarban did. This review provides a comprehensive summary of the occurrence and associated hazards of typical PPCPs and EDCs in Chinese surface waters over the past decade, and will aid in the regulation and control of these ECs in Chinese surface waters.

Preparation of deep eutectic solvent modified magnetic graphene oxide/metal organic framework nanocomposites for the extraction of three estrogens in cosmetics.

A novel magnetic dispersive solid phase extraction (MDSPE) procedure based on the deep eutectic solvent (DES) modified magnetic graphene oxide/metal organic frameworks nanocomposites (MGO@ZIF-8@DES) was established and used for the efficient enrichment of estradiol, estrone, and diethylstilbestrol in cosmetics (toner, lotion, and cream) for the first time. Then, the three estrogens were separated and determined by UHPLC-UV analysis method. In order to study the features and morphology of the synthesized adsorbents, various techniques such as FT-IR, SEM, and VSM measurements were executed. The MGO@ZIF-8@DES nanocomposites combine the advantages of high adsorption capacity, adequate stability in aqueous solution, and convenient separation from the sample solution. To achieve high extraction recoveries, the Box-Behnken design and single factor experiment were applied in the experimental design. Under the optimum conditions, the method detection limits for three estrogens were 20-30 ng g-1. This approach showed a good correlation coefficient (r more than 0.9998) and reasonable linearity in the range 70-10000 ng g-1. The relative standard deviations for intra-day and inter-day were beneath 7.5% and 8.9%, respectively. The developed MDSPE-UHPLC-UV method was successfully used to determine  three estrogens in cosmetics, and acceptable recoveries in the intervals of 83.5-95.9% were obtained. Finally, three estrogens were not detected in some cosmetic samples. In addition, the Complex GAPI tool was used to evaluate the greenness of the developed pretreatment method. The developed MDSPE-UHPLC-UV method is sensitive, accurate, rapid, and eco-friendly, which provides a promising strategy for determining hormones in different complex samples.

Carcinogenicity of asbestos-free talc and talcum powder: A systematic review of the epidemiological evidence after the 2006 monograph of the International Agency for Research on Cancer.

BACKGROUND: in 2006, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) concluded that the evidence of carcinogenicity for asbestos-free talc was inadequate (group 3), whereas perineal use of talcum powder was classified as possibly carcinogenic (group 2B). OBJECTIVES: to assess whether later studies provide more solid information on the carcinogenic risk from asbestos-free talc and talcum powder and a better characterization of exposure. DESIGN: systematic review. METHODS: cohort studies of talc miners and millers exposed to asbestos-free talc, as well as cohort and case-control studies reporting cancer risk in talc powder consumers published from 2006 onwards were identified through PubMed and reference lists. Pooled analyses were included, but not reviews and meta-analyses. In the case of repeatedly reported studies, the article with the longest follow-up or the largest number of observed cases was selected for data abstraction. Notice was taken of studies which were both reported individually and included in pooled analyses. RESULTS: publications meeting inclusion criteria were: 2 cohort studies on talc miners and millers, 10 cohort studies on talcum powder users (4 of which estimated ovarian cancer risk), and 14 case-control studies (13 on ovarian and 1 on endometrial cancer) on the risk from talcum powder use. No excess cancer mortality has been reported among asbestos-free talc miners and millers. Case-control studies consistently led to estimates of ovarian cancer excesses associated with the use of perineal talcum powder (odds ratios up to 1.5). Most studies quantifying exposure also provided evidence of a dose-response relationship. Individual cohort studies estimated hazard ratios (HR) just above 1. In an analysis of pooled cohorts for a total of 3,112 cases, the HR for women with patent reproductive tract was 1.13 (95%CI 1.01-1.26) with a correlation between HR and frequency of use (p for trend 0.03). In all cohort studies, the perineal use of talcum powder was measured only once in the early phases of follow-up, thus producing an inaccurate measure of cumulative exposure. Results of epidemiological studies regarding cancer risk in other organs are limited and inconsistent. CONCLUSIONS: epidemiological studies updated or published after IARC 2006 evaluation indicate that: no increase in cancer risk is apparent among miners and millers of asbestos-free talc; risk for ovarian cancer increases following the perineal use of commercial talcum powder. A correlation between indicators of quantity of use and cancer risk is suggested by a number of studies. The composition of talcum powders considered in such studies is not known.

[Health risks due to the presence of asbestos in cosmetic talcs. An Italian story]. / Rischi per la salute dovuti alla possibile presenza di amianto nei talchi cosmetici. Riflessioni sull'esperienza italiana.

The presence of asbestos in cosmetic talc has been reported in the United States since the 1970s. The present article first retraces the Italian case, then focuses on technical features as well as the relevant laws, rules, and regulations, ending with a precautionary evidence-based approach. Research was mainly aimed at retrieving official Italian Health Authority papers on the tests carried out several decades ago, to identify the presence of any asbestos in talc of products for sale. Results show that, in Italy, National Institute of Health (the technical agency of the Ministry of Health) and the Italian Pharmacopoeia (1985) used scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to ascertain the absence of asbestos fibres, following positive identification in several samples they had analysed. In 2008, Italy adopted the EU Pharmacopoeia according to which light microscopy (LM) was sufficient for analysis. Such a technical downgrading clearly went - and goes - against the standard principle of precaution to prevent harm to users' health.Unfortunately, documents on the above-mentioned SEM research that would have contextualized observations were not recovered from the Italian State Archive. Observations and results indicate that in practice levels of attention on the issue underwent a considerable (negative) decline, so much that effective planning of the necessary controls was not possible, which is unfortunately true to this day. Final comments deal with the principle of precaution and possible practical operational solutions.

ToF-SIMS evaluation of PEG-related mass peaks and applications in PEG detection in cosmetic products.

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are used in industrial, medical, health care, and personal care applications. The cycling and disposal of synthetic polymers like PEGs pose significant environmental concerns. Detecting and monitoring PEGs in the real world calls for immediate attention. This study unveils the efficacy of time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) as a reliable approach for precise analysis and identification of reference PEGs and PEGs used in cosmetic products. By comparing SIMS spectra, we show remarkable sensitivity in pinpointing distinctive ion peaks inherent to various PEG compounds. Moreover, the employment of principal component analysis effectively discriminates compositions among different samples. Notably, the application of SIMS two-dimensional image analysis visually portrays the spatial distribution of various PEGs as reference materials. The same is observed in authentic cosmetic products. The application of ToF-SIMS underscores its potential in distinguishing PEGs within intricate environmental context. ToF-SIMS provides an effective solution to studying emerging environmental challenges, offering straightforward sample preparation and superior detection of synthetic organics in mass spectral analysis. These features show that SIMS can serve as a promising alternative for evaluation and assessment of PEGs in terms of the source, emission, and transport of anthropogenic organics.

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex.

PURPOSE: This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations. METHODS: The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters. RESULTS: The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed. CONCLUSION: The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Drug repurposing for regenerative medicine and cosmetics: Scientific, technological and economic issues.

Regenerative medicine and cosmetics are currently two outstanding fields for drug discovery. Although many pharmaceutical products for regenerative medicine and cosmetics have received approval by official agencies, several challenges are still needed to overcome, especially financial and time issues. As a result, drug repositioning, which is the usage of previously approved drugs for new treatment, stands out as a promising approach to tackle these problems. Recently, increasing scientific evidence is collected to demonstrate the applicability of this novel method in the field of regenerative medicine and cosmetics. Experts in drug development have also taken advantage of novel technologies to discover new candidates for repositioning purposes following computational approach, one of two main approaches of drug repositioning. Therefore, numerous repurposed candidates have obtained approval to enter the market and have witnessed financial success such as minoxidil and fingolimod. The benefits of drug repositioning are undeniable for regenerative medicine and cosmetics. However, some aspects still need to be carefully considered regarding this method including actual effectiveness during clinical trials, patent regulations, data integration and analysis, publicly unavailable databases as well as environmental concerns and more effort are required to overcome these obstacles.

Characterisation of Cannabis-Based Products Marketed for Medical and Non-Medical Use Purchased in Portugal.

Cannabis-based products have gained attention in recent years for their perceived therapeutic benefits (with cannabinoids such as THC and CBD) and widespread availability. However, these products often lack accurate labelling regarding their cannabinoid content. Our study, conducted with products available in Portugal, revealed significant discrepancies between label claims and actual cannabinoid compositions. A fully validated method was developed for the characterisation of different products acquired from pharmacies and street shops (beverages, herbal samples, oils, and cosmetic products) using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector. Linearity ranged from 0.4 to 100 µg/mL (0.04-10 µg/mg) (THC, 8-THC, CBD, CBG, CBDA, CBGA), 0.1-100 µg/mL (0.01-10 µg/mg) (CBN), 0.4-250 µg/mL (0.04-25 µg/mg) (THCA-A), and 0.8-100 µg/mL (0.08-10 µg/mg) (CBCA). Among sampled beverages, none contained detectable cannabinoids, despite suggestive packaging. Similarly, oils often differed from the declared cannabinoid compositions, with some containing significantly higher CBD concentrations than labelled. These inconsistencies raise serious concerns regarding consumer safety and informed decision-making. Moreover, our findings underscore the need for stringent regulation and standardised testing protocols to ensure the accuracy and safety of cannabis-based products.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry.

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Feteasca Neagra, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Innovative Alkanediol-Based Eutectic Solvents for Extracting/Pre-Formulating Dermatologically Valuable Free Fatty Acids from Spirulina and Porphyridium Cakes.

The growing demand for phycobiliproteins from microalgae generates a significant volume of by-products, such as extraction cakes. These cakes are enriched with products of interest for the cosmetics market, namely free fatty acids, particularly polyunsaturated (PUFA). In this work, two cakes, one of spirulina and one of Porphyridium cruentum, were valorized using innovative natural hydrophobic deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) based on alkanediols. The most promising NaDES, as determined by physicochemical properties and screening, are mixtures of alkanediols and fatty acids. These include the mixtures of 1,3-propanediol and octanoic acid (1:5, mol/mol) and 1,3-propanediol and octanoic and decanoic acid (1:3:1, mol/mol). Two extractive processes were implemented: ultrasound-assisted extraction and an innovative mechanical process involving dual asymmetric centrifugation. The second process resulted in the production of extracts significantly enriched in PUFA, ranging from 65 to 220 mg/g dry matter with the two cakes. The extracts and NaDES demonstrated good safety with respect to epidermal keratinocyte viability (>80% at 200 µg/mL). The study of their impact on commensal and pathogenic cutaneous bacteria demonstrated significant effects on the viability of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis (>50% decrease at 200 µg/mL) while preserving Corynebacterium xerosis and Cutibacterium acnes. These results highlight the potential of valorizing these co-products using alkanediol-based NaDES, in a strategy combining an active vector (NaDES) and a growth regulator extract, for the management of cutaneous dysbiosis involving staphylococci.

[Research Progress on Pollution Characteristics, Degradation, and Transformation of Typical PPCPs in the Process of Wastewater Treatment].

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) have received extensive attention as a new type of pollutant inin the 21st century, and the ecological and health risks caused by PPCPs have gradually been recognized by government regulatory agencies. Daily use of PPCPs has led to their frequent detection and high concentrations in the influent, effluent, and sludge of wastewater treatment plants, but traditional wastewater treatment processes can't remove them effectively. Most research about enhancing the removal of PPCPs through microbial degradation, photodegradation, and ozonation is still in the laboratory research stage, and the removal effects are not satisfactory when applied to actual sewage treatment. Therefore, the effective removal of PPCPs from domestic wastewater is a critical technical problem that urgently needs to be studied and solved in the coming years. At present, many scholars do not have a comprehensive understanding about the degradation and transformation behaviors of microbes, ultraviolet, and ozone for typical PPCPs in the wastewater treatment process, so it is necessary to conduct a systematic analysis and discussion. In this study, 16 typical PPCPs frequently detected in sewage treatment plants were selected as research objects through a literature review. The occurrence, removal characteristics, and sludge adsorption properties of typical PPCPs in wastewater treatment plants were analyzed and summarized. The degradation and transformation behavior of typical PPCPs under microbial, ultraviolet, and ozone treatments in the wastewater treatment process were also discussed. Finally, based on current research gaps, some research directions for the removal and transformation of PPCPs in wastewater were proposed:① investigation into the removal characteristics of PPCPs by actual biochemical treatment; ② study on the mechanism of microbial degradation and transformation of typical PPCPs during biochemical treatment; ③ study on the degradation and transformation mechanism of typical PPCPs by UV/ozone in an actual sewage system; and ④ research on the application technology of removing PPCPs from sewage via microbial degradation, photodegradation, ozone oxidation, etc. The relevant results of this study can provide a reference for the pollution control of typical PPCPs in the sewage treatment process.

Ultrasonic treatment of endocrine disrupting compounds, pharmaceuticals, and personal care products in water: An updated review.

Pharmaceuticals, personal care products (PPCPs), and endocrine-disrupting compounds (EDCs) have seen a recent sustained increase in usage, leading to increasing discharge and accumulation in wastewater. Conventional water treatment and disinfection processes are somewhat limited in effectively addressing this micropollutant issue. Ultrasonication (US), which serves as an advanced oxidation process, is based on the principle of ultrasound irradiation, exposing water to high-frequency waves, inducing thermal decomposition of H2O while using the produced radicals to oxidize and break down dissolved contaminants. This review evaluates research over the past five years on US-based technologies for the effective degradation of EDCs and PPCPs in water and assesses various factors that can influence the removal rate: solution pH, temperature of water, presence of background common ions, natural organic matter, species that serve as promoters and scavengers, and variations in US conditions (e.g., frequency, power density, and reaction type). This review also discusses various types of carbon/non-carbon catalysts, O3 and ultraviolet processes that can further enhance the degradation efficiency of EDCs and PPCPs in combination with US processes. Furthermore, numerous types of EDCs and PPCPs and recent research trends for these organic contaminants are considered.

Legal analysis of South Korean cosmetic filler litigations for safer medical practices.

Cosmetic filler injections have gained popularity in recent years, but the rise in complications has led to an increase in legal disputes. This study analyzes civil court rulings related to cosmetic filler injection lawsuits in South Korea from 2007 to 2023. A retrospective case analysis was performed using a systematic database search, and a mixed-methods approach was employed for data analysis. The study examined 27 cases, revealing a high rate of liability findings against medical practitioners. Skin necrosis and blindness were the most common complications, and intravascular filler injection was recognized as negligence. Violation of informed consent was found in most cases, with mean compensation awards of ￦193,019,107 KRW ($142,831 USD) for first instance cases and ￦81,845,052 KRW ($60,564 USD) for second instance cases. The findings emphasize the importance of practitioner awareness, adherence to precautionary measures, and proactive prevention and management of complications. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial for developing strategies that prioritize patient safety and minimize legal disputes in the aesthetic medicine industry. This study provides valuable insights for enhancing medical practices and safeguarding patient well-being in the field of cosmetic filler injections.

The Total Mass of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFASs) in California Cosmetics.

Cosmetics make up one of the consumer product categories most widely known to contain perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs), including precursors to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and other perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs). Because of the way cosmetics are used, most of the PFASs present in these products are likely to reach wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs), which suggests that cosmetics may contribute significantly to the load of PFOA and other PFASs at WWTPs. However, the majority of PFASs present as intentional ingredients in cosmetics cannot be quantified with the available analytical methods. To address this issue, we developed a methodology to estimate the total PFAS mass in cosmetics as well as the corresponding mass of total organic fluorine and of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors, using various ingredient databases and ingredient concentrations reported by manufacturers. Our results indicate that the cosmetics sold in California during a one-year period cumulatively contain 650-56 000 kg of total PFASs, 370-37 000 kg of organic fluorine, and 330-20 000 kg of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors. Among the 16 product subcategories considered, >90% of the PFAS mass came from shaving creams and gels, hair care products, facial cleansers, sun care products, and lotions and moisturizers, while the sum of all nine makeup subcategories accounted for <3%. Comparing our estimates to available WWTP influent data from the San Francisco Bay Area suggests that cosmetics may account for at least 4% of the precursor-derived PFAAs measured in wastewater. As the first study ever to estimate the total mass of PFASs contained in cosmetics sold in California, our results shed light on the significance of certain cosmetics as a source of PFASs to WWTPs and can inform effective source reduction efforts.

Epidemiological case-control study on contact sensitisation in female foot care specialists with occupational contact dermatitis: Patch test data of the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK), 2008 to 2022.

BACKGROUND: Mainly women work as foot care specialists (FCS). They are at risk to develop occupational dermatitis (OD). OBJECTIVES: The objective of this study is to describe the contact sensitisation pattern of female FCS with OD. METHODS: In a retrospective study, patch test and clinical data collected by the Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK) from 2008 to 2022 were analysed. Data of 116 female FCS with OD were compared with data of 13 930 female patients with OD working in other professions and 78 612 female patients without OD. RESULTS: Hand dermatitis (93.1%) was significantly more common and face dermatitis (0.9%) significantly less common in female FCS with OD compared to other female patients with or without OD. Frequent suspected allergen sources were disinfectants, gloves, leave-on and nail cosmetics. Occlusion and wetness were important co-factors. The most common diagnoses were irritant contact dermatitis (26.7%) and allergic contact dermatitis (21.6%). No sensitisation to any of the baseline series allergens was significantly more frequent in female FCS with OD than in the two control groups. However, sensitisations to allergens which FCS are abundantly exposed to, including fragrances, preservatives, rubber ingredients and disinfectants, were most common. CONCLUSIONS: FCS should be aware of the OD risk and prevention should be promoted.

Enhanced Selective Degradation of Pharmaceutical and Personal Care Products by ß-Cyclodextrin-Decorated ZIF-67 Nanocomposites in Reclaimed Water.

A peroxymonosulfate oxidation system was developed via modification of ß-cyclodextrin (ß-CD) on the surface of Fe2+-doped ZIF-67 (CD/Fe@ZIF-67) as an activator. The 99.7% carbamazepine, 91.3% bisphenol A (BPA), and 95.4% diclofenac (DCF) degradation efficiency were achieved within 10 min, 60, and 1 min, respectively. The hydrophobicity of these three pollutants is positively correlated with their adsorption kinetic constants by CD/Fe@ZIF-67 due to the introduction of ß-CD. Scavenger experiments and electron spin resonance spectra confirmed that carbamazepine was preferentially oxidized by SO4•- [λ(SO4•-)(70.5%) > λ(•OH)(28.2%) > λ(O2•-)(1.3%)], where SO4•- and O2•- played dominant roles in the degradation of BPA [λ(SO4•-)(71.7%) > λ(O2•-)(22.8%) > λ(•OH)(5.5%)], and O2•- was responsible for DCF removal [λ(O2•-) = 93.2%]. Additionally, the particulate catalyst was immobilized in the shell side of a ceramic membrane in a membrane reactor for catalyst recovery. This reactor achieved nearly 100% removal efficiency under optimal conditions: 0.036 wt % catalyst loading, 0.5 mM peroxymonosulfate concentration, 1 L inflow, 10 mg/L initial carbamazepine concentration, and 0.012 L/min hydraulic retention time. In summary, this study elucidates the active role of ß-CD in a polymetallic/peroxymonosulfate system and provides valuable insights into the development of effective oxidation methods for pharmaceutical and personal care products in wastewater.

Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin.

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

'Magic cosmetic fillers': Appearance-enhancement effects on self-face recognition.

People naturally exhibit a self-serving bias which can be observed in their tendency to judge their own physical attractiveness more favourably than that of others. Despite this positive self-perception, minimally invasive cosmetic injectable procedures for facial rejuvenation and enhancement are becoming increasingly common. It remains unclear, however, whether recognizing an altered version of one's own face, enhanced cosmetically, correlates with a positive view of cosmetic surgery and excessive preoccupations about physical characteristics perceived as defects (body dysmorphic concerns). In this study, 30 healthy female participants, aged 18-24 years (Mage = 21.1 years, SD = 1.6), engaged in a face recognition task during which their faces were digitally morphed with that of gender-matched unfamiliar women who had undergone cosmetic enhancements, specifically lip and cheek fillers. The duration of exposure to these modified faces varied with short (500 msec) and long (2000 msec) viewing periods. Participants were asked to identify whether the digital morphs represented themselves or the other woman. Self-reports regarding acceptance of cosmetic surgery and dysmorphic concerns were collected. Participants PSE indicated a tendency towards self-bias under short presentation times, shifting towards the other as presentation times lengthened. Interestingly, this effect was associated with greater acceptance of cosmetic surgery and higher body dysmorphic concerns. This study underscores the importance of understanding how perceptions of others' physical appearances can influence self-recognition and attitudes towards cosmetic surgery, which may have both positive and potentially harmful implications.

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy.

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.