Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

ABSTRACT

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)-a less investigated representative of the genus-were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of waterpolyethylene glycol extracts (11, 41, 61 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 41 of AB and AM extracts. HG 11 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 41 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 41 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 11 and 41 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 11 and 41 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.