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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 46(2): 318-332, 2024 Apr.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38083804

RESUMO

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.


L'exposition chronique aux rayons ultraviolets (UV) du soleil accélère le vieillissement cutané, qui provoque un épaississement et un assèchement de la peau et la rend plus lâche. La présence de rides profondes induites par la rupture de la barrière cutanée en constitue l'un des symptômes les plus manifestes. Lors d'études précédentes, nous nous sommes rendu compte que l'extrait de graines de Phaseolus angularis (PASE) inhibait efficacement le vieillissement de la peau en assurant la protection anti­UVB des cellules HaCaT grâce à la suppression des lésions cutanées. Cependant, son efficacité n'a pas été évaluée lors d'essais cliniques à ce jour. L'efficacité de la crème PASE a d'abord été testée sur le modèle de peau artificielle, sur laquelle elle a fait augmenter les taux de filaggrine et assuré une défense contre les lésions cutanées. Sur la base de ces résultats, dans cette étude unicentrique, randomisée et en double aveugle, nous avons étudié l'effet anti­âge de la PASE chez l'humain au niveau des rides proches de l'œil. Pour ces 21 femmes adultes en bonne santé âgées de 30 à 59 ans, une crème PASE a été appliquée sur la zone de rides de l'œil droit et un placebo sur la zone de rides de l'œil gauche deux fois par jour (matin et soir) pendant 12 semaines. La modification des rides profondes et épaisses autour des yeux a été confirmée par une évaluation visuelle, des mesures cutanées et un questionnaire. Il a été découvert que les valeurs de rugosité de surface (R1), de rugosité maximale (R2), de rugosité moyenne (R3), de profondeur de douceur (R4) et de moyenne arithmétique (R5) dans le groupe à l'aide de la crème PASE avaient toutes diminué. En particulier, R1, R4 et R5 ont significativement diminué de 18,1 %, de 18,6 % et de 25,0 %, respectivement. Les patients qui ont appliqué la crème PASE ont également présenté une amélioration de l'hydratation de la peau presque deux fois supérieure à celle du groupe placebo. En outre, aucun participant n'a signalé d'effets secondaires. Notre étude a montré que la crème PASE entraînait des niveaux cliniquement significatifs d'amélioration des rides. En conclusion, comme le PASE est un aliment naturel, sûr et dépourvu d'effets secondaires, elle peut constituer une bonne ressource pour les cosmétiques fonctionnels naturels antirides à l'avenir.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Phaseolus , Envelhecimento da Pele , Adulto , Humanos , Feminino , Pele , Cosméticos/farmacologia , Emolientes/farmacologia , Creme para a Pele/farmacologia
2.
Drug Dev Ind Pharm ; 49(3): 1-12, 2023 Mar.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37074796

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation. METHODS: Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application. RESULTS: A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor. CONCLUSION: The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin.


Assuntos
Cosmecêuticos , Envelhecimento da Pele , Humanos , Cosmecêuticos/farmacologia , Ginkgo biloba , Rejuvenescimento , Voluntários Saudáveis , Creme para a Pele , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Antioxidantes/farmacologia
3.
Int J Mol Sci ; 24(2)2023 Jan 06.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36674614

RESUMO

In this study, an efficient phosphorus-containing flame retardant, PAPBTCA, was synthesized from phytic acid, pentaerythritol, and 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid, and its structure was characterized. PAPBTCA was finished on cotton fabrics by the pad-dry-curing process, and the flame retardancy, flame-retardant durability, and wrinkle resistance of the obtained flame-retardant fabrics were investigated. It should be noted that the heat release rate value of the flame-retardant cotton fabrics treated with 200 g/L PAPBTCA decreased by 90% and its excellent flame retardancy was maintained after 5 washing cycles. Meanwhile, the wrinkle resistance of flame-retardant cotton fabrics has been significantly improved. In addition, compared with the control, the breaking force loss of PAPBTCA-200 in the warp and weft directions was 24% and 21%, respectively. This study provides a new way to utilize natural phosphorus-based flame retardants to establish multifunctional finishing for cotton fabrics.


Assuntos
Fibra de Algodão , Retardadores de Chama , Ácido Fítico , Têxteis , Fósforo
4.
Molecules ; 27(4)2022 Feb 15.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35209083

RESUMO

In this study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was applied to extract bioactive substances with skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects from safflower seeds, and the extraction conditions were optimized by a central composite design. The independent variables, including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~100%), were optimized to increase tyrosinase activity inhibitory (TAI), collagenase activity inhibitory (CAI), and radical scavenging activity (RSA), which are indicators of skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects. An extraction time of 26.4 min, extraction temperature of 52.1 °C, and ethanol concentration of 50.7% were found to be optimum conditions of UAE, under which TAI, CAI, and RSA were 53.3%, 91.5%, and 27.7%, respectively. The extract produced by UAE was analyzed by LC-MS/MS, and maleic acid and levulinic acid were identified as the main substances. Therefore, UAE is evaluated as an effective process to extract skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant substances from safflower seeds at lower temperatures and shorter extraction times compared to the conventional extraction methods. Overall, safflower seeds extract can be used as a material for value-added cosmetics, including maleic acid and levulinic acid, which have bioactive functions.


Assuntos
Carthamus tinctorius/química , Fracionamento Químico/métodos , Extratos Vegetais/isolamento & purificação , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Sementes/química , Antioxidantes/química , Antioxidantes/isolamento & purificação , Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Cromatografia Líquida , Inibidores Enzimáticos/química , Inibidores Enzimáticos/isolamento & purificação , Inibidores Enzimáticos/farmacologia , Estrutura Molecular , Extratos Vegetais/química , Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Solventes , Espectrometria de Massas em Tandem , Temperatura , Ondas Ultrassônicas
5.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(2): 232-248, 2022 Apr.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35302659

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. METHOD: In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed. RESULTS: Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased. CONCLUSION: Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches.


CONTEXTE: La peau offre divers avantages et a la faculté de recevoir des peptides si l'on parvient à réduire temporairement et de manière réversible sa capacité à fonctionner comme une barrière. Comme les peptides ont un poids moléculaire élevé, une nature hydrophile (dans la plupart des cas) et possèdent des groupes ionisables dans leur structure, il est très difficile d'en faire bénéficier la peau. En outre, ils sont sensibles aux enzymes protéolytiques de la peau. Les peptides antirides, comme d'autres peptides, souffrent d'une capacité insuffisante de perméation de la peau ; or, la plupart d'entre eux doivent y pénétrer profondément pour avoir une efficacité. Bien que les études cellulaires indiquent l'efficacité de ces peptides, s'ils sont incapables de pénétrer suffisamment la peau, cette efficacité est inopérante. Face à cette perméabilité médiocre de la peau aux peptides antirides, des recherches sont menées actuellement pour trouver des méthodes d'amélioration à la fois réalisables et non invasives, qui soient attractives pour les consommateurs de produits cosmétiques. MÉTHODE: Dans cet article, nous étudions de manière approfondie la possibilité de perméation des peptides antirides à travers l'épiderme, ainsi que les approches chimiques, physiques et d'encapsulation utilisées à ce jour pour augmenter l'aptitude à la perméation de ces molécules difficiles. RÉSULTATS: La plupart des peptides antirides ne sont pas de bons candidats à la perméation de l'épiderme, et il est essentiel d'avoir recours à des méthodes de renforcement pour augmenter leur capacité de pénétration. Pour ce faire, seules certaines approches de renforcement de la perméation ont été appliquées jusqu'à présent : une modification chimique avec des fractions hydrophobes ou des peptides pénétrants la cellule ; la complexation métallique ; les amplificateurs de perméation chimique ; l'iontophorèse ; les micro-aiguilles et l'encapsulation dans les nano supports. Les résultats des études publiées sur la perméabilité de l'épiderme aux peptides antirides que sont la carnosine, le GHK, le PKEK, le GEKG, le GQPR et le KTTKS indiquent que l'augmentation de la capacité de perméation de l'épiderme de ces peptides est possible et donne de bons résultats. CONCLUSION: Bien que la capacité de perméation de la plupart des peptides antirides ne soit pas suffisamment élevée et qu'ils n'atteignent pas leurs cibles dans la peau aux bonnes concentrations, cette capacité peut être augmentée jusqu'à des concentrations thérapeutiques en recourant à diverses approches de renforcement.


Assuntos
Absorção Cutânea , Pele , Administração Cutânea , Peptídeos/farmacologia , Permeabilidade , Pele/metabolismo
6.
Biochem Biophys Res Commun ; 580: 41-47, 2021 11 26.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34619551

RESUMO

Luffa cylindrica stem sap (LuCS) has been traditionally used as a facial cosmetic supplement to enhance the skin condition of Asians. However, LuCS has yet to be described and there is no solid scientific evidence regarding the use of LuCS as an anti-wrinkle agent. In the present study, we have evaluated the functional effect of LuCS and its underlying mechanisms based on scientific evidence. Treatment with LuCS stimulated the growth and migration of human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment activated EGFR signaling via the enhanced expression of EGFR and down-regulation of PPARγ in human skin fibroblasts. Exposure to LuCS induced the synthesis of cellular type I procollagen and elastin in consort with the down-regulation of various proteinases including MMP-1, -2 and -9 in human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment also reversed the skin damage induced by UV-A irradiation in human skin fibroblasts. 3-bromo-3-methylisoxazol-5-amine was identified as the functional component using UPLC-MS-MS analysis and increased production of cellular type I procollagen. Collectively, these results suggest the efficacy of LuCS supplementation in improving the skin condition via anti-wrinkle effect.


Assuntos
Fibroblastos/efeitos dos fármacos , Luffa , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Substâncias Protetoras/farmacologia , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Linhagem Celular , Sobrevivência Celular/efeitos dos fármacos , Sobrevivência Celular/efeitos da radiação , Fibroblastos/citologia , Fibroblastos/efeitos da radiação , Humanos , Luffa/química , Extratos Vegetais/química , Caules de Planta/química , Substâncias Protetoras/química
7.
Chem Biodivers ; 18(3): e2000992, 2021 Mar.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33482052

RESUMO

Argireline-containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox-like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle-free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP-HPLC/MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.


Assuntos
Cosméticos/análise , Oligopeptídeos/análise , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão , Conformação Molecular , Espectrometria de Massas em Tandem
8.
Molecules ; 26(5)2021 Feb 25.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33669031

RESUMO

Response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions for simultaneous optimization of dependent variables, including DPPH radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI), and collagenase activity inhibition (CAI) of peanut shell extracts. The effects of the main variables including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min, X1), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C, X2), and ethanol concentration (0.0%~99.5%, X3) were optimized. Based on experimental values from each condition, quadratic regression models were derived for the prediction of optimum conditions. The coefficient of determination (R2) of the independent variable was in the range of 0.89~0.96, which demonstrates that the regression model is suitable for the prediction. In predicting optimal UAE conditions based on the superimposing method, extraction time of 31.2 min, extraction temperature of 36.6 °C, and ethanol concentration of 93.2% were identified. Under these conditions, RSA of 74.9%, TAI of 50.6%, and CAI of 86.8% were predicted, showing good agreement with the experimental values. A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction showed that peanut shell extract decreased mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-3 genes in B16-F0 cell. Therefore, we identified the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of peanut shell extracts at protein as well as gene expression levels, and the results show that peanut shell is an effective cosmetic material for skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. Based on this study, peanut shell, which was considered a byproduct, can be used for the development of healthy foods, medicines, and cosmetics.


Assuntos
Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Arachis/química , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Preparações Clareadoras de Pele/farmacologia , Ondas Ultrassônicas , Animais , Antioxidantes/química , Antioxidantes/isolamento & purificação , Compostos de Bifenilo/antagonistas & inibidores , Metaloproteinase 3 da Matriz/genética , Metaloproteinase 3 da Matriz/metabolismo , Glicoproteínas de Membrana/antagonistas & inibidores , Glicoproteínas de Membrana/genética , Glicoproteínas de Membrana/metabolismo , Camundongos , Oxirredutases/antagonistas & inibidores , Oxirredutases/genética , Oxirredutases/metabolismo , Picratos/antagonistas & inibidores , Extratos Vegetais/química , Extratos Vegetais/isolamento & purificação , RNA Mensageiro/antagonistas & inibidores , RNA Mensageiro/genética , RNA Mensageiro/metabolismo , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Preparações Clareadoras de Pele/química , Preparações Clareadoras de Pele/isolamento & purificação , Células Tumorais Cultivadas
9.
J Toxicol Environ Health A ; 83(11-12): 423-437, 2020 06 17.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32546107

RESUMO

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks FBG cream significantly reduced appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.


Assuntos
Panax/química , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Pigmentação da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Animais , Linhagem Celular , Sobrevivência Celular/efeitos dos fármacos , Colágeno/biossíntese , Di-Hidroxifenilalanina/metabolismo , Fermentação , Humanos , Inibidores de Metaloproteinases de Matriz/farmacologia , Melaninas/biossíntese , Camundongos , Monofenol Mono-Oxigenase/antagonistas & inibidores , Monofenol Mono-Oxigenase/metabolismo , Oxirredução/efeitos dos fármacos , Extratos Vegetais/química , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Creme para a Pele/química , Creme para a Pele/farmacologia
10.
J Toxicol Environ Health A ; 83(11-12): 470-484, 2020 06 17.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32564709

RESUMO

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, FBG cream significantly reduced the appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with a control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced from 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.

11.
Skin Therapy Lett ; 25(2): 3-7, 2020 Mar.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32196147

RESUMO

There is growing awareness of the complex link between nutrition and skin. In the last few decades, our understanding of this link has grown significantly with research findings from multiple laboratory, animal, and human studies. From the impact of diet on clinical features of aging skin, to documentation of the biochemical and histologic changes that occur, our understanding of this link continues to expand and evolve. In this paper, we review the research on the impact of diet on skin aging. A number of long-term observational population studies have documented that healthier diets are linked to fewer signs of skin aging. Animal and laboratory studies have elucidated the biochemical processes that play a large role in the development of these clinical findings. A number of studies have also reported on the role of specific dietary compounds in impacting these processes, whether by combating or potentiating these forces. This body of research serves as guidance in recommending nutritional strategies that can combat the skin aging forces of oxidation, inflammation, and glycation.


Assuntos
Dieta , Estado Nutricional/fisiologia , Envelhecimento da Pele/fisiologia , Animais , Glicosilação , Humanos , Inflamação/dietoterapia , Inflamação/patologia , Oxirredução , Pele/metabolismo
12.
Molecules ; 25(11)2020 May 29.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32486036

RESUMO

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).


Assuntos
Organismos Aquáticos/química , Produtos Biológicos/química , Cosmecêuticos/química , Cosméticos/química , Suplementos Nutricionais , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Acne Vulgar/tratamento farmacológico , Animais , Anti-Inflamatórios/farmacologia , Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Humanos , Indóis/metabolismo , Monofenol Mono-Oxigenase/antagonistas & inibidores , Fenóis/metabolismo , Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Preparações Clareadoras de Pele , Cicatrização
13.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 41(6): 548-557, 2019 Dec.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31407802

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Grammatophyllum speciosum is utilized to treat sore throats and bronchitis In Thai folk medicine. This study evaluated the in vitro activity and clinical efficacy of a G. speciosum pseudobulb decoction. METHODS: Measure of in vitro anti-ageing activity was performed using non-cell based assays as well as in CRL 2097 human fibroblast cells. A prophetic patch test method was used to determine skin irritation in 24 healthy Thai volunteers. A randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted with 24 subjects for 56 days after facial application to evaluate efficacy. The results were measured with Visioface® and Cutometer® MPA 580 as well as by visual observations. RESULTS: The total content of the antioxidant polyphenols in G. speciosum ethanolic extract (GSE) was 48.19 ± 0.39 mg EGCG equivalent per gram. The GSE possessed potent and higher anti-elastase activity more than EGCG. The extract was able to protect human fibroblasts against superoxide anion-induced cell death at the concentration of 10 µg mL-1 . In a clinical study, facial application of the serum containing 0.5% GSE was found to safely increase skin distensibility in healthy volunteers. Skin viscoelasticity and wrinkle volume were also significantly reduced (P < 0.05). CONCLUSION: Thus, both the in vitro and the clinical studies have illustrated the anti-wrinkle/anti-ageing benefits of GSE on human skin.


OBJECTIF: Grammatophyllum speciosum est utilisé pour traiter les maux de gorge et les bronchites dans la médecine populaire thaïlandaise. Cette étude a évalué in vitro l'activité et l'efficacité clinique d'une décoction de pseudobulbes de G. speciosum. MÉTHODES: La mesure in vitro de l'activité anti-âge a été réalisée à l'aide de dosages non cellulaires ainsi que dans des cellules de fibroblastes humains CRL 2097. Une méthode de test de patch a été utilisée pour déterminer l'irritation cutanée chez 24 volontaires thaïlandais en bonne santé. Un essai randomisé en double aveugle, contrôlé contre placebo, a été mené auprès de 24 sujets pendant 56 jours après l'application sur le visage pour évaluer l'efficacité. Les résultats ont été mesurés par Visioface® et Cutometer® MPA 580 et au moyen d'observations visuelles. RÉSULTATS: La teneur totale en polyphénols antioxydants dans l'extrait éthanolique de G. speciosum (GSE) était de 48,19 ± 0,39 mg équivalent EGCG par gramme. Le GSE a montré une activité antiélastase puissante et plus élevée que l'EGCG. L'extrait a été capable de protéger les fibroblastes humains contre la mort cellulaire induite par l'anion superoxyde à la concentration de 10 µg ml-1 . Dans une étude clinique, l'application sur le visage d'un sérum contenant 0,5 % du GSE a permis d'augmenter la distensibilité de la peau chez des volontaires sains en toute sécurité. La viscoélasticité de la peau et le volume des rides ont également été significativement réduits (P < 0.05). CONCLUSION: Ainsi, les études in vitro tout comme les études cliniques ont illustré les bénéfices antirides/anti-âge du GSE sur la peau humaine.


Assuntos
Etanol/química , Orchidaceae/química , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Método Duplo-Cego , Humanos , Placebos
14.
Mol Cell Biochem ; 442(1-2): 97-109, 2018 May.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29019108

RESUMO

Synaptotagmin 1 (Syt1) is the Ca2+ sensor protein with an essential role in neurotransmitter release. Since the wrinkle formation is due to the excessive muscle fiber stimulation in the face, a helpful stratagem to diminish the wrinkle line intenseness is to weaken the innervating neuron activity through Syt1 inhibition which is one of the possible therapeutic strategies against wrinkles. Recently, experimental evidence showed that botox-like peptides, which are typically used as SNARE modulators, may inhibit Syt1. In this work, we applied molecular modeling to (1) characterize the structural framework and (2) define the atomistic information of the factors for the inhibition mechanism. The modeling identified the plausible binding cleft able to efficiently bind all botox-like peptides. The MD simulations revealed that all peptides induced significant Syt1 rigidity by binding in the cleft of the C2A-C2B interface. The consequence of this binding event is the suppression of the protein motion associated with conformational change of Syt1 from the closed form to the open form. On this basis, this finding may therefore be of subservience for the advancement of novel botox-like molecules for the therapeutic treatment of wrinkle, targeting and modulating the function of Syt1.


Assuntos
Simulação de Acoplamento Molecular , Peptídeos/química , Proteínas SNARE , Sinaptotagmina I/química , Humanos , Proteínas SNARE/antagonistas & inibidores , Proteínas SNARE/química
15.
Biosci Biotechnol Biochem ; 82(2): 320-328, 2018 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29307270

RESUMO

Although rice bran consumption is reportedly has numerous beneficial effects on human health, the relationship between rice bran and the prevention of photoaging has not been investigated in detail. We sought to investigate whether consumption of rice bran supplement (RBS) can elicit preventive effects against UVB-induced photoaging in vivo. Dorsal skin sections of hairless mice were exposed to UVB over 16 weeks. RBS consumption suppressed UVB-induced wrinkle formation and inhibited the loss of water content and epidermal thickening in the mouse skin. Western blot and immunohistochemical analyses revealed that repeated exposure to UVB upregulated matrix metalloproteinase-13 (MMP-13) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) expression, while consumption of RBS suppressed MMP-13 and COX-2 expression, as well as mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. These findings suggest that RBS could be a potential bioactive ingredient in nutricosmetics to inhibit wrinkle formation and water content loss via the suppression of COX-2 and MMP-13 expression.


Assuntos
Suplementos Nutricionais , Oryza/química , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos da radiação , Raios Ultravioleta/efeitos adversos , Animais , Ciclo-Oxigenase 2/metabolismo , Epiderme/efeitos dos fármacos , Epiderme/patologia , Epiderme/efeitos da radiação , Feminino , Regulação Enzimológica da Expressão Gênica/efeitos dos fármacos , Regulação Enzimológica da Expressão Gênica/efeitos da radiação , Sistema de Sinalização das MAP Quinases/efeitos dos fármacos , Sistema de Sinalização das MAP Quinases/efeitos da radiação , Metaloproteinase 13 da Matriz/metabolismo , Camundongos , Envelhecimento da Pele/patologia , Água/metabolismo
16.
Drug Dev Ind Pharm ; 44(2): 316-328, 2018 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29096550

RESUMO

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is an insoluble, poorly permeable antioxidant with great biological value which acts as anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent. To improve its permeability through topical application, the current study aimed at formulating oil/water (o/w) nanoemulsion (NE) as an efficient vehicle for delivering (CoQ10) through the skin barriers. The solubility of (CoQ10) was tested for various oils, surfactants (S), and co-surfactants (CoS). The NE region was determined by constructing pseudoternary phase diagrams. NE formulae containing 1, 2, and 3% w/w drug have been subjected to thermodynamic stability test. The formulae that passed thermodynamic stability tests were characterized by physical properties as pH, viscosity, refractive index, droplet size, zeta-potential, TEM, electroconductivity, in vitro release, and ex vivo permeation. The formula 'F2' containing 10% w/w isopropyl myristate (oil phase), 60% w/w of Tween 80: Transcutol HP mixture (S/CoSmix) at ratio 2:1, 30% w/w water and 2% w/w drug was evaluated for its anti-wrinkle efficiency using an animal model. The 'F2' formula showed 11.76 ± 1.1 nm droplet size, 1.4260 ± 0.0016 refractive index, 0.228 PDI, -14.7 ± 1.23 mv zeta potential, 7.06 ± 0.051 pH, 199.05 ± 0.35 cp viscosity, and the highest percentage of drug release in the selected dissolution media. About 47.21% of the drug was released in phosphate buffer 7.4 containing 5% w/v Labrasol and 5% w/v isopropyl alcohol through 24 h. It also showed the highest drug flux (Jss = 3.164 µg/cm2/h), enhancement ratio (Er = 8.32), and permeability coefficient (Kp = 22.14 × 10-4 cm2/h). CoQ10 NE reduced the skin wrinkles and gave the skin smooth appearance. Our investigation suggests the potential use of NE as a vehicle for enhancing solubility and permeability of CoQ10 and thus improving its anti-wrinkle efficiency.


Assuntos
Emulsões/química , Nanopartículas/química , Absorção Cutânea/fisiologia , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Ubiquinona/análogos & derivados , Administração Cutânea , Animais , Química Farmacêutica , Sistemas de Liberação de Medicamentos , Liberação Controlada de Fármacos , Estabilidade de Medicamentos , Feminino , Concentração de Íons de Hidrogênio , Tamanho da Partícula , Ratos , Ratos Wistar , Solubilidade , Propriedades de Superfície , Tensoativos/química , Ubiquinona/administração & dosagem , Ubiquinona/farmacologia , Viscosidade
17.
Molecules ; 23(6)2018 06 11.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29891820

RESUMO

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is the primary cause of extrinsic skin aging, which results in skin hyperpigmentation and wrinkling. In this study, we investigated the whitening effect of (2E,5E)-2,5-bis(3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzylidene)cyclopentanone (BHCP) on B16F10 melanoma and its anti-wrinkle activity on Hs27 fibroblasts cells. BHCP was found to potently inhibit tyrosinase, with 50% inhibition concentration (IC50) values of 1.10 µM and 8.18 µM for monophenolase (l-tyrosine) and diphenolase (l-DOPA), and the enzyme kinetics study revealed that BHCP is a competitive-type tyrosinase inhibitor. Furthermore, BHCP significantly inhibited melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity, and downregulated the levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), phosphorylated levels of cAMP response element-binding (CREB) protein, and tyrosinase in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. Moreover, BHCP inhibited the phosphorylation of p65 and expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-9, MMP-12, and MMP-13) in Hs27 fibroblasts stimulated with UV radiation. Therefore, our results demonstrate that BHCP may be a good candidate for the development of therapeutic agents for diseases associated with hyperpigmentation and wrinkling.


Assuntos
Ciclopentanos/farmacologia , Melaninas/antagonistas & inibidores , Melanoma Experimental/patologia , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Animais , Regulação para Baixo , Fibroblastos/efeitos dos fármacos , Melaninas/metabolismo , Camundongos , Fosforilação , Raios Ultravioleta
18.
BMC Complement Altern Med ; 16: 116, 2016 Apr 07.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27052448

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Seungma-Galgeun-Tang (SMGGT), a traditional herbal medicinal formula, has been used to treat various skin problems such as inflammation and rashes in Korean traditional medicine. In order to clarify the scientific evidence for the biological efficacy of SMGGT on the prevention of skin aging and in particular wrinkle formation, molecular anti-wrinkle parameters were evaluated in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. METHODS: Standard SMGGT was prepared from KFDA-certified herbal medicines and the chemical fingerprint of SMGGT was verified by HPLC-ESI-MS to insure the quality of SMGGT. To evaluate the inhibitory effects of SMGGT on the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type-1 procollagen, the content of MMP-1 and type-1 procollagen synthesizing enzymes in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were measured using an ELISA kit and Western Blot, respectively. RESULTS: The treatment of SMGGT water extract significantly inhibited the production of MMP-1 and promoted type-1 procollagen synthesis concentration dependently. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that SMGGT has the potential to prevent wrinkle formation by down-regulating MMP-1 and up-regulating type-1 procollagen in human dermal fibroblasts.


Assuntos
Medicamentos de Ervas Chinesas/uso terapêutico , Metaloproteinase 1 da Matriz/metabolismo , Inibidores de Metaloproteinases de Matriz/farmacologia , Pró-Colágeno/biossíntese , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Sobrevivência Celular , Células Cultivadas , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão , Fibroblastos/efeitos dos fármacos , Humanos , Masculino , Adulto Jovem
19.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 38(4): 375-81, 2016 Aug.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-26648582

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Although an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch has been developed to improve anti-wrinkle effects, an efficacy evaluation with a control group has not yet been performed. In this study, the anti-wrinkle effect of an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was evaluated in a double-blind clinical study with a control group. In addition, a cumulative skin irritation and sensitization potential of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was performed. METHODS: Twenty-three subjects were selected for anti-wrinkle effect evaluation in a double-blind clinical study. Subjects were divided into two groups. Group I subjects applied an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch on a crow's feet area on the left side of the face and a control sample on a crow's feet area on the right side of the face every 4 days. Group II subjects placed the same patches on opposite sides of the face. Global Photodamage Score and skin replica analysis were conducted by visual inspection and skin visiometer, respectively. A skin irritation and sensitization assessment was performed on 51 subjects using the modified Shelanski & Shelanski procedure. Cumulative skin irritation potential and skin sensitization of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch and control sample were evaluated. RESULTS: Skin treated with the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch showed a statistically significant improvement in both the Global Photodamage Score and visiometer R values (P < 0.05) compared with the control sample. The R2 value (maximum roughness), in particular, showed a highly significant improvement (P < 0.01). The skin irritation and sensitization assessment demonstrated that the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch did not induce any cumulative skin irritation potential or skin sensitization. CONCLUSIONS: An ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch produced a significant anti-wrinkle effect without skin irritation and sensitization problems. This cosmetic dissolving microneedle patch can be used efficiently in the anti-wrinkle cosmetic field with patient convenience.


Assuntos
Ácido Ascórbico/administração & dosagem , Agulhas , Envelhecimento da Pele , Ácido Ascórbico/efeitos adversos , Ácido Ascórbico/uso terapêutico , Método Duplo-Cego , Feminino , Humanos , Masculino , Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura , Pessoa de Meia-Idade , Placebos , Adesivo Transdérmico
20.
MMW Fortschr Med ; 158 Suppl 4: 1-6, 2016 May 25.
Artigo em Alemão | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27221554

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Anti-wrinkle creams containing hyaluronic-acid are often advertised as an efficacious option for the treatment of wrinkles and have even been presented as an option equal to some medical procedures in this regard. Evidence from conclusive and systematic research supporting those claims, however, is widely lacking. OBJECTIVES: During this trial we examined whether the daily use of anti-wrinkle creams containing hyaluronic-acid has an influence on the depth of wrinkles as well as skin tightness and elasticity. METHODS: We split up 20 patients into four groups, each of which were assigned an anti-wrinkle cream containing hyaluronic acid for daily use. Four different creams within different price ranges were chosen (Balea, Nivea, Lancôme, Chanel). Before and after the 3 month trial, wrinkle depth was assessed using the PRIMOS(pico) (GFMesstechnik, Teltow, Germany) and skin-tightness and elasticity were evaluated using the Cutometer MP580 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany). Additionally, after the trial, questionnaire data on patient satisfaction with their individual product was collected. RESULTS: The depth of perioral and orbital wrinkles decreased significantly in all groups, with depth reduction ranging between 10% and 20%. Skin-tightness increased significantly in all groups, rising by 13 to 30%. Minimal significant changes in skin-elasticity could only be shown in individual groups. CONCLUSIONS: The regular use of hyaluronic-acid containing anti-wrinkle creams for over 3 months showed clear and positive effects on wrinkle-depth and skin-tightness. Due to the design of the study, however, no clear indication on the efficacy of hyaluronic acid could be shown.


Assuntos
Elasticidade/efeitos dos fármacos , Ácido Hialurônico/administração & dosagem , Envelhecimento da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Creme para a Pele/administração & dosagem , Adulto , Comportamento do Consumidor , Feminino , Seguimentos , Humanos , Ácido Hialurônico/economia , Pessoa de Meia-Idade , Creme para a Pele/economia , Resultado do Tratamento
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